Furhter updates to bivi rigging diagram and description

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Wookey
2025-06-30 22:01:52 +01:00
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@@ -14,18 +14,18 @@ nights that might result if it's not done well enough. Starting from
the bare space it's really quite hard to know where to start if you've
not done it before, so this doc attempts to provide some advice.</p>
<p>Until 2014 we had a shortish green tarp (10mx6m) wrapped up the back edge at upper entrance and a separate tarp for that upper area. It wasn't very good. In 2015 we bought a much longer big white tarp (15x6m) which covers the whole rear area down to the ground. In 2024 we bought a replacement but due to a documentation error that one is 15x10m which is really too wide. This description has been updated for the 2024-on version.</p>
<p>Until 2014 we had a shortish green tarp (10mx6m) wrapped up the back edge at upper entrance and a separate tarp for that upper area. It wasn't very good. In 2015 we bought a much longer big white tarp (15x6m) which covered the whole rear area down to the ground. In 2024 we bought a replacement but due to a documentation error that one is 15x10m which is really too wide. This description has been updated for the 2024-on version.</p>
<p>There are two essentially-separate jobs:
<ol>
<li>the
<a href="water">water-collecting tarp</a>, and </li>
<a href="water">water-collecting tarps</a>, and </li>
<li>the <a href="#main">main tarp</a></li>
</ol></p>
<p>If there is any chance of it raining soon, <strong>start with the <a href="water">water
tarp</a></strong>, as you <strong>really</strong> don't want to miss collectingt all that water, and
setting up in the rain is rubbish.</p>
tarp</a></strong>, as you <strong>really</strong> don't want to miss collecting all that water, and
setting it up in the rain is rubbish.</p>
<h2>Terminology</h2>
@@ -51,12 +51,14 @@ right size (15x6m)). The 2024 tarp is 3-4m wider than the bivvy, so
has to be folded along the long axis to work. It is 15mx10m. </p>
<img src="i/bivirig.jpg" alt="Drawing of post-2024 tarp layout" width=800>
<p>Start with the big white tarp. The long edge goes from front to
back of the bivi. The basic position is that it goes all the way to
<p>Get out the (heavy!) big white tarp. The long edge goes from front
to back of the bivi. The basic position is that it goes all the way to
the right wall, partly 'underneath', and the left hand edge crosses
the steps up the middle. The back edge reaches the floor behind the
top 3-person flat area at the back entrance. The front edge comes down
to ground level.</p>
the steps up the middle, covering the whole width at the back. The
back edge reaches the floor behind the top 3-person flat area at the
back entrance. The front edge comes down to ground level. Someone may
have written 'front' and 'back' on the tarp to initially orient
it.</p>
<p>So start by opening it out to full length over the sleeping areas
to the right of the steps, and folding 3.5m of the right hand edge
@@ -67,16 +69,16 @@ in place, then install the four main ropes to lift it up. Then
finalise the tarp position and tension it.</p>
<p>Once the tarp is somewhat spread out, get the 4 main ropes in place
underneath it. Use the anchors shown on the diagram. The secret to
the middle rope is _not_ to use the obvious ceiling bolt which is hard
to reach; instead tie the rope to a tension rope (5) above the
steps. This allows the tarp edge to come further left and run square
to avoid sagging. Tension rope 2 first, then 1,3,4 to lift the tarp up
and ensure it is neatly spread. You will need bungee-balls to hold the LH
edge of the (folded) tarp in place. To get good tension on the main
lines thread them through a maillon, and tie off on another bolt. You
don't need to add any new ones - there are more than enough bolts
now.</p>
underneath it. Use the anchors shown on the diagram that are known to
work. The secret to the central rope '2' is _not_ to use the obvious
ceiling bolt which is hard to reach; instead tie the RH end of rope 2
to a tension rope '5' above the steps. This allows the tarp edge to
come further left and run square to avoid sagging. Tension rope 2
(with rope 5) first, then 1,3,4 to lift the tarp up and ensure it is
neatly spread. You will need bungee-balls to hold the RH edge of the
(folded) tarp in place. To get good tension on the main lines thread
them through a maillon, and tie off on another bolt. You don't need to
add any new ones - there are more than enough bolts now.</p>
<p>At the left-hand end of rope 4 the tarp gets scrunched round the
anchor. This is fiddly to get it all to hang nicely. The objective is
@@ -85,10 +87,10 @@ the water runs down the top and out the front, rather than collecting
in 'buckets', which then drip. That means that it has to be fitted
quite 'flat'. To make this theory actually work, add extra lines in a
zig-zag pattern between the main ropes so no buckets can form. Don't
tension them too hard as they distort the main ropes - it's a
tension the early ones too hard as they distort the main ropes - it's a
balancing act to get the tension everywhere right.</p>
<p>To keep the electrics dry the edge of the tarp is held taut with string to concrete screws in this area</p>
<p>To keep the electrics dry the edge of the tarp is held taut with string to concrete screws in this area.</p>
<p>At the front edge the tarp lays over rocks. Put some padding
(karrimat/old tarps) over the rocks to avoid damage to the new

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