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Furhter updates to bivi rigging diagram and description
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@@ -14,18 +14,18 @@ nights that might result if it's not done well enough. Starting from
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the bare space it's really quite hard to know where to start if you've
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not done it before, so this doc attempts to provide some advice.</p>
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<p>Until 2014 we had a shortish green tarp (10mx6m) wrapped up the back edge at upper entrance and a separate tarp for that upper area. It wasn't very good. In 2015 we bought a much longer big white tarp (15x6m) which covers the whole rear area down to the ground. In 2024 we bought a replacement but due to a documentation error that one is 15x10m which is really too wide. This description has been updated for the 2024-on version.</p>
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<p>Until 2014 we had a shortish green tarp (10mx6m) wrapped up the back edge at upper entrance and a separate tarp for that upper area. It wasn't very good. In 2015 we bought a much longer big white tarp (15x6m) which covered the whole rear area down to the ground. In 2024 we bought a replacement but due to a documentation error that one is 15x10m which is really too wide. This description has been updated for the 2024-on version.</p>
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<p>There are two essentially-separate jobs:
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<ol>
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<li>the
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<a href="water">water-collecting tarp</a>, and </li>
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<a href="water">water-collecting tarps</a>, and </li>
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<li>the <a href="#main">main tarp</a></li>
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</ol></p>
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<p>If there is any chance of it raining soon, <strong>start with the <a href="water">water
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tarp</a></strong>, as you <strong>really</strong> don't want to miss collectingt all that water, and
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setting up in the rain is rubbish.</p>
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tarp</a></strong>, as you <strong>really</strong> don't want to miss collecting all that water, and
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setting it up in the rain is rubbish.</p>
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<h2>Terminology</h2>
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@@ -51,12 +51,14 @@ right size (15x6m)). The 2024 tarp is 3-4m wider than the bivvy, so
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has to be folded along the long axis to work. It is 15mx10m. </p>
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<img src="i/bivirig.jpg" alt="Drawing of post-2024 tarp layout" width=800>
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<p>Start with the big white tarp. The long edge goes from front to
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back of the bivi. The basic position is that it goes all the way to
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<p>Get out the (heavy!) big white tarp. The long edge goes from front
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to back of the bivi. The basic position is that it goes all the way to
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the right wall, partly 'underneath', and the left hand edge crosses
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the steps up the middle. The back edge reaches the floor behind the
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top 3-person flat area at the back entrance. The front edge comes down
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to ground level.</p>
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the steps up the middle, covering the whole width at the back. The
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back edge reaches the floor behind the top 3-person flat area at the
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back entrance. The front edge comes down to ground level. Someone may
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have written 'front' and 'back' on the tarp to initially orient
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it.</p>
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<p>So start by opening it out to full length over the sleeping areas
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to the right of the steps, and folding 3.5m of the right hand edge
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@@ -67,16 +69,16 @@ in place, then install the four main ropes to lift it up. Then
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finalise the tarp position and tension it.</p>
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<p>Once the tarp is somewhat spread out, get the 4 main ropes in place
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underneath it. Use the anchors shown on the diagram. The secret to
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the middle rope is _not_ to use the obvious ceiling bolt which is hard
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to reach; instead tie the rope to a tension rope (5) above the
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steps. This allows the tarp edge to come further left and run square
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to avoid sagging. Tension rope 2 first, then 1,3,4 to lift the tarp up
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and ensure it is neatly spread. You will need bungee-balls to hold the LH
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edge of the (folded) tarp in place. To get good tension on the main
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lines thread them through a maillon, and tie off on another bolt. You
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don't need to add any new ones - there are more than enough bolts
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now.</p>
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underneath it. Use the anchors shown on the diagram that are known to
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work. The secret to the central rope '2' is _not_ to use the obvious
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ceiling bolt which is hard to reach; instead tie the RH end of rope 2
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to a tension rope '5' above the steps. This allows the tarp edge to
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come further left and run square to avoid sagging. Tension rope 2
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(with rope 5) first, then 1,3,4 to lift the tarp up and ensure it is
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neatly spread. You will need bungee-balls to hold the RH edge of the
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(folded) tarp in place. To get good tension on the main lines thread
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them through a maillon, and tie off on another bolt. You don't need to
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add any new ones - there are more than enough bolts now.</p>
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<p>At the left-hand end of rope 4 the tarp gets scrunched round the
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anchor. This is fiddly to get it all to hang nicely. The objective is
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@@ -85,10 +87,10 @@ the water runs down the top and out the front, rather than collecting
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in 'buckets', which then drip. That means that it has to be fitted
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quite 'flat'. To make this theory actually work, add extra lines in a
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zig-zag pattern between the main ropes so no buckets can form. Don't
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tension them too hard as they distort the main ropes - it's a
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tension the early ones too hard as they distort the main ropes - it's a
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balancing act to get the tension everywhere right.</p>
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<p>To keep the electrics dry the edge of the tarp is held taut with string to concrete screws in this area</p>
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<p>To keep the electrics dry the edge of the tarp is held taut with string to concrete screws in this area.</p>
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<p>At the front edge the tarp lays over rocks. Put some padding
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(karrimat/old tarps) over the rocks to avoid damage to the new
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