From 1d3b28aeeb8cb9d3dc101f19308d36bda673b34b Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001
From: Wookey
Until 2014 we had a shortish green tarp (10mx6m) wrapped up the back edge at upper entrance and a separate tarp for that upper area. It wasn't very good. In 2015 we bought a much longer big white tarp (15x6m) which covers the whole rear area down to the ground. In 2024 we bought a replacement but due to a documentation error that one is 15x10m which is really too wide. This description has been updated for the 2024-on version.
+Until 2014 we had a shortish green tarp (10mx6m) wrapped up the back edge at upper entrance and a separate tarp for that upper area. It wasn't very good. In 2015 we bought a much longer big white tarp (15x6m) which covered the whole rear area down to the ground. In 2024 we bought a replacement but due to a documentation error that one is 15x10m which is really too wide. This description has been updated for the 2024-on version.
There are two essentially-separate jobs:
If there is any chance of it raining soon, start with the water -tarp, as you really don't want to miss collectingt all that water, and -setting up in the rain is rubbish.
+tarp, as you really don't want to miss collecting all that water, and +setting it up in the rain is rubbish.
-Start with the big white tarp. The long edge goes from front to -back of the bivi. The basic position is that it goes all the way to +
Get out the (heavy!) big white tarp. The long edge goes from front +to back of the bivi. The basic position is that it goes all the way to the right wall, partly 'underneath', and the left hand edge crosses -the steps up the middle. The back edge reaches the floor behind the -top 3-person flat area at the back entrance. The front edge comes down -to ground level.
+the steps up the middle, covering the whole width at the back. The +back edge reaches the floor behind the top 3-person flat area at the +back entrance. The front edge comes down to ground level. Someone may +have written 'front' and 'back' on the tarp to initially orient +it.So start by opening it out to full length over the sleeping areas to the right of the steps, and folding 3.5m of the right hand edge @@ -67,16 +69,16 @@ in place, then install the four main ropes to lift it up. Then finalise the tarp position and tension it.
Once the tarp is somewhat spread out, get the 4 main ropes in place -underneath it. Use the anchors shown on the diagram. The secret to -the middle rope is _not_ to use the obvious ceiling bolt which is hard -to reach; instead tie the rope to a tension rope (5) above the -steps. This allows the tarp edge to come further left and run square -to avoid sagging. Tension rope 2 first, then 1,3,4 to lift the tarp up -and ensure it is neatly spread. You will need bungee-balls to hold the LH -edge of the (folded) tarp in place. To get good tension on the main -lines thread them through a maillon, and tie off on another bolt. You -don't need to add any new ones - there are more than enough bolts -now.
+underneath it. Use the anchors shown on the diagram that are known to +work. The secret to the central rope '2' is _not_ to use the obvious +ceiling bolt which is hard to reach; instead tie the RH end of rope 2 +to a tension rope '5' above the steps. This allows the tarp edge to +come further left and run square to avoid sagging. Tension rope 2 +(with rope 5) first, then 1,3,4 to lift the tarp up and ensure it is +neatly spread. You will need bungee-balls to hold the RH edge of the +(folded) tarp in place. To get good tension on the main lines thread +them through a maillon, and tie off on another bolt. You don't need to +add any new ones - there are more than enough bolts now.At the left-hand end of rope 4 the tarp gets scrunched round the anchor. This is fiddly to get it all to hang nicely. The objective is @@ -85,10 +87,10 @@ the water runs down the top and out the front, rather than collecting in 'buckets', which then drip. That means that it has to be fitted quite 'flat'. To make this theory actually work, add extra lines in a zig-zag pattern between the main ropes so no buckets can form. Don't -tension them too hard as they distort the main ropes - it's a +tension the early ones too hard as they distort the main ropes - it's a balancing act to get the tension everywhere right.
-To keep the electrics dry the edge of the tarp is held taut with string to concrete screws in this area
+To keep the electrics dry the edge of the tarp is held taut with string to concrete screws in this area.
At the front edge the tarp lays over rocks. Put some padding
(karrimat/old tarps) over the rocks to avoid damage to the new
diff --git a/handbook/i/bivirig.jpg b/handbook/i/bivirig.jpg
index 009515011029dbc2c5a20d35076a938e1973bb44..f9ad4d5404b058b25587b2306a716e683bad3b34 100644
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