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<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd">
<html>
<head>
<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1" />
<title>CUCC Expedition Handbook: Photography</title>
<link rel="stylesheet" type="text/css" href="../css/main2.css" />
</head>
<body>
<h2 id="tophead">CUCC Expedition Handbook</h2>
<h1>Photography</h1>
<p>However, as yet, no one has volunteered to write an expo photography guide. So this (decades-old) document is just an outline
of (a) what has been done up to now and (b) what needs doing in the future
without much (c) how to do it.</p>
<h3>What has been done up to "now" ? (as of about 1999)</h3>
<p>Many people take cameras to expedition, a few make it up to Top Camp, and
a very few get underground, where the equipment may or may not work, people
may or may not cooperate or get too cold and photographers may persist or
give up. Hence there are plenty of photos of Base Camp, festering, dead cars
etc., quite a lot of the walk in, Top Camp, the plateau, a fair number of
entrances, and a very few good underground shots.</p>
<p>Getting a collection of photos together to make an "expedition slide set"
has taken years, and is still not really satisfactory. There must be some
more good pictures out there ? August 1996 saw the first 99 slides (they
missed one) put onto Photo-CD, and a start made in getting these onto the
website. This is proving quite hard work, because digitisation is not very
tolerant of poor exposure, especially different exposure across the photo.
Correcting this is pretty time-consuming, though it can reveal unexpected
detail that was never really visible in slide shows.</p>
<p>Quite a bit of "notebook" photography has been done with a video camera
and digitiser card. This is a handy way of getting quick pictures of
entrances and approach routes (and much cheaper than Photo-CD, if you have the
equipment), but the quality leaves a certain amount to be desired (it would
be improved by a slightly less cheapo video digitiser). Some pictures are
also here courtesy of video of postcard-sized prints.</p>
<p>For 1997, a 2700 dpi transparency scanner should ensure that your
photos will make it to the web site quickly, without having to wait
to make up a set of 100 for a Photo-CD :-) Experience has also shown that
the final results are somewhat better as we have more control at the
scanning stage. See the <a href="../1623/161/pixlw.htm">Lost World</a>
virtual tour.</p>
<p>Since the above paragraphs were written, there has been a vast increase in
the prevalence of digital cameras. Unfortunately as these are even more
expensive than their film counterparts people are exceedingly unwilling to take
them underground. Hence underground photography has been rather thin on the
ground of late; we desperately need more photos of the further reaches of
Steinbr&uuml;ckenh&ouml;hle, for example.</p>
<h3>What needs doing in the future ?</h3>
<p>A number of photographs specifically illustrating topics in the Expedition
Handbook would be useful. We would prefer that this involved a practice rescue
in Yorkshire rather than a real one in Austria. Likewise, a bit of photography
during a practice survey trip would be good. Another topic, on which we have
neither words nor pictures, would be expedition rigging.</p>
<p>Almost every entrance needs documenting photographically, to make it
easier to find and identify. Some aerial photos would really help here. As a
temporary measure, there are various photos taken from the Br&auml;uning
Wall. With a bit of surface-survey visualisation software, these may even
get a few entrances marked...</p>
<p>The major need is for quality underground photographs. Of the couple of
score or so representing the 21.5km of Kaninchenh&ouml;hle, almost all had
to have quite a lot of hacking about to make them look acceptable on the
medium of the computer screen, though this has become rather easier now
we have access to a transparency scanner. In particular we are short of
pictures of the following:</p>
<ul>
<li>Vertical France</li>
<li>Left Hand Route</li>
<li>Garden Party</li>
<li>Powerstation</li>
<li>Drunk and Stupid</li>
<li>Dreamtime</li>
<li>Limo series, Gnome, Vestabule etc. etc.</li>
<li>Flapjack, Flat Battery, Gob on You etc.</li>
<li>Siberia, Leadmine, Maze</li>
<li>Interview Blues</li>
<li>Fine Clean Rock, Henri's Cat</li>
<li>Bottomless Pit, Hammeroids and other verticals</li>
<li>Alternative Universe, Dr. Snuggles etc.</li>
<li>Forbidden Land</li>
</ul>
<p>and we could do with rather more of</p>
<ul>
<li>Right Hand Route</li>
<li>Puerile Humour</li>
<li>Flat France (nearer France than Brownie's Cunt)</li>
<li> ... and almost everywhere else</li>
</ul>
<p>Photos showing approach routes would be useful, as would photos taken
(and carefully documented) during surface surveys.</p>
<h3>How to do it ?</h3>
<p>Scenario: Photographer gathers together all the equipment needed for a trip.
Three photographers and several helpers have volunteered. Photographer comes
back late and knackered from one trip - postpones the photographic trip.
Weather is crap - no one goes up to Top Camp, another postponement. One of the
photographers has to go home - hands all gear to another. Expo dinner - no one
doing anything. Finally the trip is on. Photographer at Top Camp religiously
tests all the equipment - it works perfectly.</p>
<p>Dodging showers, the team heads up to and into the cave. Through Triassic
Park and to the scene of the first photo. All flash equipment fails to go off.
Change connectors. Fails. Use slaves. Fails repeatedly until second
photographer fires an electronic flash at the roof to see how high it is -
slaves fire bulb flashes in dazzling coruscation of light - no cameras with
shutters open. Try again, bulbs fail to fire. After about an hour and a half,
everyone freezing and irate, give up and move to another site. Similar
performance, but with a stronger, colder draught. Cave now floods as
mega-thunderstorm occurs on surface. Party retreat along Triassic Park,
pausing for one or two more attempts. Exit, apparently after total failure.</p>
<p>In fact, the second photographer, who hasn't had his gear out of its ammo
can since his previous expedition photographic trip three years earlier, does
turn out to have a few usable shots.</p>
<p>This is probably how <b>not</b> to do it, though it does illustrate the
problems. Can anybody write something more positive?</p>
<hr />
<h3>More hints'n'tips, mainly on what not to do.</h3>
<ul>
<li>Don't use flash on camera, except a small flash used to fire slaves on
bigger flashes off-camera. Frontal lighting produces no shadows, so the
picture is flat and hard-to-understand. Also produces bright "red eye" in
cavers whose faces appear on the photo.</li>
<li>Do use a tripod - the heavier the better for photography, but worse
for caving with. Tiny pocket tripods are great for allowing cameras
topple off boulders and into the all-pervading mud, but crap for getting
your eye anywhere near the viewfinder.</li>
<li>Do use slaves. I don't mean people who will take orders (though they
certainly help - we call them "minions"). A slave is a small electronic
gadget which will fire one flash gun when another goes off. They are
triggered by the fast rising edge of light level produced by an electronic
flash, and will not go off in response to daylight, or a headlight flashing
across them. You can use several to ensure that all the flashes go off at the
same time, thus avoiding the problem that a caver has moved between two
manual firings of a flashgun, producing a "ghost" image.</li>
<li>Do use multiple flashes, but don't go over the top. Cavers see the cave
partly by their own head lamp, and partly by the lamps of others, so a
photo with multiple light sources looks "natural". However, with too many
lights, the result is a confusing mess. Two or three flashes are enough,
except in large chambers, where each flash is far enough apart to be clearly
seen as a separate caver/light patch.</li>
<li>Don't have more than two photographers working at once. Two cameras on
tripods using the same flashes is good economy, but more just reduces the
chances of the picture being taken in a finite time.</li>
<li>Don't use big flashes close to large boulders or to walls. To avoid
burning out the highlights and leaving deep shadows, try to get flashes
positioned so everything they illuminate is more-or-less the same distance
away. Often this means having your caver with his flash perched on a large
boulder, or hanging in the middle of a shaft.</li>
<li>To project light along a passage, or up a shaft, without burning out
the nearby walls, put a "funnel" of aluminium foil (shiny side in) over
the flashgun. This tends to change the effective guide number, so it's
worth doing some experiments in the UK first!</li>
<li>People can relate to photos looking straight up a shaft, but ones looking
straight down don't seem to work as well. Better if possible to get off to
one side and have a shot looking diagonally up or down.</li>
<li>Beware of posed action shots. Practice the timing and have them actually
moving when the flash fires, otherwise they look awkward and off-balance.</li>
<li>Photography rarely combines well with exploration - the trip just gets
slowed up too much with both bolting and photography and everyone gets cold.
However, quick snapshots at pitch heads or at the exits from crawls can
work if the photographer is fairly well practised. Similarly, photography
doesn't combine well with surveying, as both activities are slow-moving and
result in lots of people generating great clouds of steam.</li>
<li>Solo cave photography is possible, but like solo surveying, is time
consuming and frustrating. Photos with no people lack scale and are generally
a waste of effort.</li>
<li>Photography against the light can be very creative, but is also more
prone to cocks-up. Don't let the camera "see" the flash directly. A flash
hidden from the camera by a caver makes a good silhouette, but exposure is
difficult to calculate except by experience (ie. lots of failed shots).
A flash hidden round a bend, and reflecting off wet walls can also be very
good. However, this doesn't work as well when everything is more-or-less
muddy.</li>
<li>Take notes. When starting underground photography, some shots work well,
whilst others fail. If you don't record what you did, you'll never know why.
Once you can avoid those shots which produced crap results, you have more
practice refining the good shots, and people will be more willing to come
on photo trips with you.</li>
</ul>
<hr />
<h3>Choice of gear</h3>
<p>Just a few brief notes:</p>
<p><b>Camera:</b> preferably use a robust camera with minimal electronics
(the most sophisticated of metering is useless in the dark :-) For black and
white work, many prefer 2&frac14;" square format (120) film, often using an
old folding camera. For colour, 35mm is almost universal. If you want an SLR,
the old Zenith ones can stand being dropped a considerable distance in an
ammo can. They also fulfil the final criterion on cost: don't take a camera
underground unless you can afford to write it off.</p>
<p>Some cavers in recent years have had some success with pocket-size digital
cameras. These are much more delicate than a film camera, but vastly smaller
and lighter and easier to carry around. It seems unlikely that these will
supplant film cameras for 'artistic' photography with fifteen different
flashguns in enormous chambers, but they have the vast advantage of allowing
you to see on the spot if you've taken a completely blank exposure. They are
probably ideally suited to 'notebook' style photography, just photographing
anything you find without worrying overmuch about quality: any photos are
better than no photos.</p>
<p><b>Flash:</b> You can get more light from a bulb flash than electronic,
and they are less sensitive to damp, though still far from wholly reliable.
Bulbs cost a lot more per flash than an electronic gun, and are less reliable
as the master flash for setting off slave units. Some slave units also fail
to fire bulb flashes, or can even be damaged by them. And finally, it is
getting hard to obtain flashbulbs as they are widely regarded as obsolete.</p>
<p><b>Film:</b> If possible, use more light, rather than faster film. In big
passage or chambers, this may not be feasible. 400 ASA film is fine for
postcard sized prints, but dreadfully grainy for enlargements, for
projection, or to be scanned for the website. The best results for scanning
seem to come from 100 ASA negative film - go for amateur films, which have
more exposure latitude, cope with a greater contrast range in the subject,
and are invariably cheaper than professional emulsions. 64 or 100 ASA seems
to be about right for slides.</p>
<p><b>Protection:</b> the classic is the ex-military ammunition tin or
"ammo-can". There are two sizes useful for photography, 3&frac12;" and 6".
The latter are really heavy and clumsy to carry, whilst the former are a very
tight or impossible fit for most SLRs with the lens on (and carrying a
camera with the lens off is asking for shit inside). Whichever is used,
the inside should be padded with old karrimat or something similar. Don't
rely on the little metal handle - these have been known to pop their spot
welds - use some chunky nylon tape, especially in vertical cave.</p>
<p>One alternative is the Peli or Otter polycarbonate case (the Peli ones are
famously guaranteed against all damage except shark attacks, bear attacks and
children under 5). These appear to be genuinely indestructible and much lighter
than ammo cans, but they are expensive. <a href="../sponsr.htm">Sponsorship</a>
from Peli in 2004 might bring a few more into circulation.</p>
<p>Another option is the plastic "BDH" or "Daren" drum. These are lighter, have
less awkward corners to catch in crawls, but are more difficult to fit
rectangular objects into. They are also slightly more prone to fall over, and
the lids are more easily mislaid. "Rocket" tubes are similar.</p>
<hr />
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<p>This is not really a bank.
<p>This is an online system which does accounting. It keeps records of how expenses are allocated and who has paid what. You will be issued with an online username and password to access it when you pay your Expo deposit. Your transactions are not private: all transactions on all accounts are visible to any logged-on user.
<p><em>Please be respectful of this website as you'll find you can edit transactions that others have listed. This is to allow people to collaboratively add their combined expenses with all the complications that cavers bring to anything. However, it could be abused. Please don't. The admins can see records of who changed what and when. </em>
<p>BoC was originally designed for expedition use, where expenses are distributed by number of nights/car-passengers/beers. Being online helps accounting transparency, allows real-time review of creditors/debtors, and, if input permissions are devolved, reduces the burden on the treasurer. Due to its expedition origins it correctly handles exchange rates changing over time.
<p>BoC was originally designed for <b>expedition use</b>, where expenses are distributed by number of nights/car-passengers/beers. Being online helps accounting transparency, allows real-time review of creditors/debtors, and, if input permissions are devolved, reduces the burden on the treasurer. Due to its expedition origins it correctly handles exchange rates changing over time.
<p>Please read how these expenses records are also kept manually on paper in the <a href="bierbook.html">Bier and Sesh books</a> in the potato hut.
<p>The 2018 Bank of Expo is hosted at <a href="http://expo.survex.com/boe">expo.survex.com/boe</a>.
<p>Bank of Expo (and the same software running as Bank of CUCC for ordinary caving trips) was written by Stuart Bennett in Cambridge. He says:
<p>

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<html>
<head>
<title>CUCC Expedition Handbook</title>
<link rel="stylesheet" type="text/css" href="../css/main2.css" />
</head>
<body>
<h2 id="tophead">CUCC Expedition Handbook</h2>
<h1>Base camp operations</h1>
<p>Base camp - the potato hut - is where the expo as a whole is organised from.
We do not have a centre of operations in the UK during expo.
<p>Shopping for food and equipment during expo is centered at base camp,
not least because this is where we have the beer fridge.
<h2>Records kept at Base Camp</h2>
<p>Obviously it is vital for safety that we know where everyone is and to ensure that
callout times are set and cancelled for every caving trip.
<p>We also have to keep formal, legal records of who is staying at the Staudnwirt Gasthof campsite and when
because (a) we pay the Gasthof for every person-night and (b) it is a legal requirement
because of tourist tax payments.
<p>These records are kept in <a href="bierbook.html">two bound paper books</a> which are pre-printed and bound
(including the names of all expoers) before the expo begins.
<p>Your next of kin, insurance and emergency contact details will need to be manually written onto your page of one of these
(<a href="bierbook.html">the bierbook</a>) on first arrival at base camp as a double-check that we have the latest correct information.
<h3>Base camp logbook</h3>
<p>We have a hard-cover book where we record every caving or surface exploration trip that has departed or returned to base camp. This includes
sketched SRT rigging guides and some cave survey notes - in addition to those recorded in the waterproof underground surveying notebooks.
<p>The text in the logbook is typed up trip by trip as the expo progresses (e.g. see the
<a href="../years/2017/logbook.html">2017 logbook</a>). The sketches are scanned on the scanner in the potato hut.
<h3>Base camp callout book</h3>
<p>We have a hardcover book recording who has left base camp to go directly on a caving or surface trip, when they are expected back
and the callout time: the time at which rescue preparations will begin if they have not returned.
<h2>Preparing base camp at the beginning of expo</h2>
<p>
<figure>
<img src="i/base-tarp2017.jpg" width=50% hspace=5px alt="Tarp on the end in 2017">
<figcaption><em>Tarp at the end of the hut in 2017.</em></figcaption>
</figure>
We have the use of the new potato hut, its loft, and a cupboard - externally accessed - in the old potato hut.
At the beginning of expo the cupboard and the loft are rammed full of stuff from last year and need to be emptied.
<p>One of the first things to do is to put down the floor covering and gaffer-tape table-cloths to the tables in the potato hut.
But the absolutely first thing to do is to turn on the fridge and to put some beer in it.
<p>The bier tent (mess tent) has to be erected - a complex job for 2 people as it has a steel-tube frame and very stiff waterproofed canvas.
Then the bier tent kitchen (tables, cookers, gas cylinders, pans and plates, and all the stored food) needs to be set up.
The "kitchen" in the potato hut is just a sink and an electric kettle - and we deploy our bread-making machine there.
<p>
<figure>
<img src="i/base-tarp.jpg" width=50% hspace=5px alt="Tarp on the side in 2018">
<figcaption><em>Tarp at the side of the hut in 2018.</em></figcaption>
</figure>
The tarp needs to be erected which extends from the end or, from 2018 the side, of the potato hut to provide a shaded
and rain-free area for piles of expo stuff and for people to lurk.
<p>Part of the area next to the hut is the winter curling "rink" - a lower area of gravel which we can't use for
pitching tents as it floods in heavy rain.
<p>Another big job is connecting and configuring the WiFI router, the networking netbook,
the expo laptop (and extra screen and extra keyboard), the WiFi antenna, the printer, and the scanner.
These are installed on top of the wood burning stove which we don't use. We also install mains power extension cables with UK-style
sockets everywhere in the hut.
<p>Every year we bring out A0 and A1 printed posters of the cave surveys of the caves which will be the focus of exploration.
These are stuck up on the walls of the hut.
<h2>Communications with top camp</h2>
<p>
Base camp and top camp both have phones using highly-reliable, low-bandwidth Austrian phone company SIMs.
We use phone calls and text messages to coordinate callout times for
caving trips. See <a href="phone.htm">these instructions</a> for using these and for renewing the SIM each year.
<h3>Whiteboards<a href="http://expo.survex.com/years/2017/ukcaving/index.html#msg_282612"><img src="../years/2017/ukcaving/36547905301_986fc71f08_c.jpg" align="right" width=50% hspace=5px></a></h3>
<p>There is a whiteboard in the potato hut and another in the Steinbr&uuml;ckh&ouml;hle top camp.
<p>
These show current important and urgent information: what needs to be brought up to top camp from base, what we have run out of and needs buying
(hangers, custard powder, drill batteries...), what has broken and needs fixing, who is planning to come down the mountain.
The top camp board also records who is out on which caving trips and when they are expected back; and also promising leads to be checked out
in the coming days.
<h3>Base camp bike</h3>
<p>We also have <a href=bike.html>a bike</a> which we use for shopping when all the cars are up the toll road and there are only
a handful of people at base.
<h2>Recycling</h2>
<h3>Plastic bottles</h3>
<p>This is <b>not</b> the same as is the UK. Austrians recycle plastic bottles, but <b>no other forms of plastic</b>:
<ul>
<li>no egg cartons, <li>no plastic bags, <li>no film food packaging,
<li>no polythene milk bottles, <li>no PVC shampoo biottles, <li>no yoghurt pots, <li>no plastic cups; nothing.
</ul>
<p>The plastic bottles must be PET bottles: the normal fizzy drink type.
<p>There is a bin bag for PET bottles (no caps) between the new and old potato huts.
<h3>Metal cans</h3>
<p>There is a bin bag for aluminium and steel food and drink cans between the new and old potato huts.
We also put the bottle caps from Gosser beer in there.
<h3>"Biom&uuml;ll" - food waste</h3>
<p>There is a bin bag for food waste - putrescible waste - between the new and old potato huts.
This goes to composting or digestion, so no non-food items should go in here.
The Biom&uuml;ll bin truck drives past every Thursday morning, but you need to catch his attention to get them to take it away.
Twice a week you need to re-bag the food waste , double-bagging if necessary to keep the flies out.
<p>Flies, and wasps later in the expo, are a big problem.
They lay eggs in the food waste and it can be crawling with maggots: which hatch into new flies.
<p>
There is spray bleach in the bier tent (mess tent) which should be liberally applied around all the bins
between the old and new potato huts to keep the flies dead. If this runs out be sure to buy some more.
<h2><img src="i/elaine-in-river.jpg" align=right hspace=5px alt="Of course my survey drawings are up to date.">The river</h2>
<p>Behind the Gasthof, following a path from the toilets, is the river which comes from Grundlesee and goes to Bad Aussee.
There is a small dam making a swimming pool and a raft to sit on with your feet in the water while drinking Gosser.
The river (Grundlseer Traun) is not only a cool festering spot and excellent swimming location, but also provides
us with some turbulence from a weir which is an ideal
place <a href="../piclinks/washit.htm">for washing ropes</a> and other gear at the end of each expedition. See
<a href="../fester.htm">the festering guide</a> for other non-caving activities to do from base camp.
<p>
In July 2018 the Gasthof nearly ran out of water because so many tourists were visiting for a music festival,
and Hilda asked us to use river water if possible.
<h2>Computer, printer and scanner</h2>
<p>We have a complex installation of internet-connected computer hardware and WiFi in the potato hut - all running on donated or loaned gear.
This is primarily for recording the surveys of the cave we discover during expo. See <a href="computer.html">base camp computers</a> for more details.
<h2>History of base camps</h2>
<p>See our <a href="../bcamps.htm">photo gallery</a> of base camp through the years. We have been
at Staudnwirt Gasthof since 1983.
<hr />
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<html>
<head>
<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1" />
<title>Handbook placeholder page</title>
<title>CUCC Expedition Handbook</title>
<link rel="stylesheet" type="text/css" href="../css/main2.css" />
</head>
<body>
<h2 id="tophead">CUCC Expedition Handbook</h2>
<h1>Placeholder</h1>
<p>This is not the page you are looking for.
<p>This will be replaced with the information you want as soon as someone gets around to writing it. Why not find out how to do this yourself ?
<hr />
<ul id="links">
<li><a href="index.htm">Expedition Handbook</a>
<h1>The Bier Book</h1>
<h2>Basecamp essential records</h2>
<p>Many essential records at base camp are recorded in the "Bier Book" and the "Sesh Book".
<h3>The Bier Book</h3>
<a href="i/bierbook.jpg">
<img src="t/tbierbook.jpg" alt="Beer book" hspace=10px border=1 align="right" />
</a>
This is used to record vital information:
<ul>
<li><a href="survey/index.htm">Surveying guide</a> - Overview</li>
<li><a href="look4.htm">Prospecting guide</a> &ndash; Overview</li>
<li><a href="rescue.htm">Rescue guide</a></li>
</ul></li>
<li><a href="../index.htm">Back to Expedition Intro page</a></li>
<li><a href="../../index.htm">Back to CUCC Home page</a></li>
<li>Emergency contact details for next of kin
<li>Emergency insurance details for each expoer and EHIC number.
<li>Money owed to each expoer for communal expenses
<li>Toll road (panoramastrasse) information for cars permitted up the mountain
<li>Nights camping at at base camp
<li>Nights camping at top camp and at underground camp
<li>Hours spent underground
</ul>
<p>
<a href="i/bierentries.jpg"><img src="t/tbierentries.jpg" alt="Beer record" hspace=10px border=1 align="right" /></a>The record of the number of beers (and other drinks) that each person drinks from the common store in the potato hut looks like this. This is used when the treasurer does the final accounts reckoning after the end of expo.
<br>
<h3>Nights camping</h3>
<p><a href="i/nights.jpg"><img src="t/tnights.jpg" alt="Nights record" hspace=10px border=1 align="right" /></a>
We use this book to record where everyone spends the night. This is <b>important</b> because this is used to record our <b>tax liability</b> which is part of our camping fee for the Gasthof. We have been visited by tax inspectors in the past, so this is not just a "nice to have".
<p>
This also records the number of nights spent at the bivvy and underground camp. We use this data to help us plan the food needed up the mountain for future expeditions.
<h3 id="sesh">The Sesh Book</h3>
<ul>
<li>Money owed to each expoer for shared group meals and drinks (not expo expense)
<li>Expo Dinner: who and menu options (number of veggies)
</ul>
Getting infomation on the number of people attending dinner is always difficult. Try to get this filled in a week in advance.
<h3>Expenses and money owed</h3>
<p>As well as writing the amounts of money in the books, printed receipts for expo expenses need to be put in the envelope in the potato hut.
<p>Each receipt needs the name of the person paying and a sequence number if you have more than one receipt.
<p>Both expo communal expenses and shared group expenses should be entered into your <a href="bankofexpo.html">Bank of Expo</a> online account. When you have typed it in, make a written note "BoE done" against that line in the book. (If you don't do this the expo treasurer will
have to do it. And you want to keep the expo treasurer happy don't you?)
<hr />
Back to <a href="baseops.html">other operations at base camp</a>.
</body>
</html>

7
handbook/bike.html
View File

@@ -10,6 +10,8 @@
It is a <a href="https://www.bikepedia.com/QuickBike/BikeSpecs.aspx?item=95368">Scott Reflex 40</a> and it is probably worth nearly &pound;300. It is stored in the loft of the Potato Hut
between expos.
<p>It is perfectly capable of being ridden up the panoramastrasse to the car park. Some people do this "for fun".
<p>More sensible people have ridden the bike (with a rucksack of gear) to the bottom of the toll road at Bla Alm and
hitched up from there. It's still hard work - especially from Alt Aussee to Bla Alm.
<h2>Bike Lock</h2>
<pre>
@@ -17,9 +19,10 @@ Lock code: 1241
</pre>
<p>This is easily remembered if you just recall that this is the year that the Mongols invaded
Poland.
<h2>Lights and basket</h2>
<p>There are no bike lights (use a couple of head-torches, one with red LEDs facing backwards) and no basket or paniers. Use a rucksack.
<h2>History</h2>
<p>A few years ago (2016?) we found a bike in Grundlesee lake.
<p>A few years ago (2015) we found a bike in Grundlesee lake.
It was reported to the police and after a year they told us
that no one had claimed it and that we could keep it.

167
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<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd">
<html>
<head>
<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1" />
<title>CUCC Expedition Handbook: Drill Battery Charging</title>
<link rel="stylesheet" type="text/css" href="../css/main2.css" />
</head>
<body>
<h2 id="tophead">CUCC Expedition Handbook</h2>
<h1>Drill Battery Charging</h1>
<h2>Instructions for charging</h3>
0) <li>If a battery has green insulation tape on it it has been
modified by us and will not charge on a Makita standard charger. It
must be charged on the balance chargers (or RC chargers). Untaped
(standard) batteries will not charge on the balance chargers, so must
be charged on the Makita chargers (or RC charger). All batteries will
charge on the RC chargers, but not as fast as on the Makita
charger. Go to <a href="#RCcharge">RC charger</a>.</li>
<p>New for 2018 is varying battery capacity. We have 3Ah, 4Ah and 5Ah
packs. Bigger packs will take longer to charge from empty. The
capacity is on the cell label next to the yellow connector.</p>
<p>Each pack has a sliding indicator on the side. This is entirely
manual, but is very useful for indicating when a pack is known to be
charged, flat, or partly discharged. Slide the slider to show green
for full, red for flat, half and half for 'partly used'.</p>
<h3>Using Makita charger</h3>
<p>This is blue charger with 3 LEDs, and diagrammatic charging info on RH side. CHarges at up to 100W.</p>
<ol>
<li>Make sure charger is powered (flashing green LED).</li>
<li>Plug batt into Makita charger. It should start charging.</li>
<li>Look at the LEDs for status - the legend is printed on the charger.
If it flashes 'broken battery' (flashing red and gren LED) at you
after a few seconds, use the yellow (Pro-Peak Prodigy II) RC charger instead.</li>
<li>Eventually it should show '100%' (steady green LED) (in about 1
hour max). You are done.</li>
</ol>
<h3>Using Balance charger</h3>
<p>This is the set of 3 (2 half-width) chargers made from old Makita chargers. They have a set of 4 LEDs. (The full-width one only has 1 LED in 2018). Charges at 40W.</p>
<ol>
<li>Make sure charger is powered (flashing green LEDs).</li>
<li>Plug batt into charger. After a few seconds it should start charging.</li>
<li>Look at the LEDs for status - the legend is printed on the RH end charger. Steady red for bulk charging to 80%. Steady orange for last 20% charging. Steady green for finished. If it flashes red and beeps (repeated 5 times) something is wrong - see table. If you get an 'undervoltage' reading, use an RC charger instead to get the charging started.</li>
<li>Eventually it should show '100%' (steady green LEDs). (1hr 50 max possible charge time). You are done.</li>
</ol>
<h3 id="RCcharge">Using Accucell 6 RC charger</h3>
<p>This is black all-purpose charger with blue LCD display. CHarges at up to 50W</p>
<p>The Yellow Propeak chargers do the same job, and insturcuctions are
similar, but have no fan, no backlit display, and if pack is low
voltage will charge at C/10 (10% of normal) until voltage rises
sufficiently. Ensure that charge rate is set to 4000mA otherwise
charging will be very slow. Charges at up to 50W (5W in C/10 gnetle start).</p>
<ol>
<li>Make sure charger is powered (display lit up)</li>
<li>Connect charger to battery (either hardboard adaptor or empty
Makita base adaptor). Check polarity is correct with hardboard
adaptor.</li>
<li>Check display says 'Lion' or 'Lipo' and '14.4V' and '3A' and 'CHARGE'. Hold
down 'start/enter' button (on right). It will do a battery check.</li>
<li>If it shows '4' as the number of cells, then press 'start/enter'
again. Charging will start (fan comes on, display changes). If it
shows anything else like 'polarity reversed' or 'connection break'
then fix the connection to the battery. If it shows '3' as number of
cells it is probably knackered, but possibly can be coaxed back into
action. Find a battery expert - don't just use the charger anyway.</li>
<li>Once it beeps and says 'FULL' (flashing) then you are done (should
be less than 2 hours). Display shows number of mAh put in in
bottom right. Should be a number like 250 for each hole drilled
(between 50 and 2900 depending how discharged it was).</li>
</ol>
<h3>Can I tell if a battery is already charged?</h3>
<p>Simplest it try to charge it again and find that it says it is done
in a couple of minutes (Up to 4 mins on the balance chargers). This
may 'waste a life' on batteries that still work on the Makita
charger. Checking it on the RC charger will not waste a life. It will
quickly rise to 16.4V, and the current drop to 0.1A or so. That
indicates a full pack. It will tell you so after a while (1-5
mins).</p>
<h3>What sort of batteries are they</h3>
<p>The drill batts are 4S2P 14.4V lithium ion packs (8 18650 cells: 4 in
series, each being a parallel pair). This means that they are charged
as 4-cell packs, to 4.1V per cell-pair. They can be charged at up to
3A rate. Battery 1 has connector wired as balance connector. No other
packs have this yet (2017). The official Makita packs use Sony SE
US18650VT (1.5Ah, 20A high-drain) cells, and we have a few with with Samsung
INR18650-13Q (1.3Ah high-drain cells). All give a reliable 2.3-2.6Ah
capacity in practice, even after 9 years expo useage.</p>
<p>At end 2017 we bought two 4Ah packs. The non-makita one uses LG
DAHD21865 cells (2Ah, 25A). I can't read the Makita cell type without
unwelding the pack. For 2018 we made 3 new 5Ah packs from Samsung 25R
cells (2.5Ah, 20A) (Sponsored by uk18650.com).</p>
<p>The drill discharges at 26A current draw when drilling (~400W), so
that's 13A per cell in a 2P configuration.</p>
<h3>Makita charging protocol issues</h3>
<p>Makita have put very 'conservative' software in the batteries which
will stop them working on the Makita charger, even when they are in
fact fine. The monitoring board is powered off the 1st cell pair so
that one tends to get discharged more than the others when left
sitting for the 11 months of not-expo. If an unbalanced (or
over-disharged, or too-hot) pack is inserted into the makita charger
the charger and battery will do serial-coms negotiation, the charger
will refuse to charge the battery and the battery will remember this.
If you try this 3 times, the battery will mark itself bad and will
never charge again on a makita charger. Only a replacement monitoring
board can fix this (or new software if we knew how to nobble it).</p>
<p>Such batteries are normally still fine and charge on a sensible (RC
- Radio Control, because RC people are the main market for these
chargers) charger, possible after a balance charge to get the cells in
the pack in sync again. Expo has a couple of these (Yellow Pro-power
Prodigy II). Unfortunataly Makita don't build the 14.4V packs with
balance connections to the cells, so the PCB has to be replaced to
make this work easily for expo. For 2018 this was done for 7 of our
packs, and 3 automatic balance chargers built.</p>
<p>Note that the drills have no battery-voltage monitoring at all, and the
monitoring circuit is bypassed when conected to the drill (the charger
uses a different connector-pair from the drill - that's why there are
3 slots). Thus the drill can easily be used to over-discharge a
battery, so please stop drilling when it gets slow and put on a new
batt, unless it's an emergency. Drilling with an excessively-sagged
voltage is a good way to knacker the weakest cell-pair. If your battery
does get to this state, try to charge it up as soon as possible. Cells
must not be left at &lt;2V for any length of time as they rapidly
(hours/days?) degrade to useless in this state (and that pair will
need replacing).</p>
</body>
</html>

348
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@@ -4,23 +4,157 @@
<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1" />
<title>CUCC Expedition Handbook: Drill Battery Charging</title>
<link rel="stylesheet" type="text/css" href="../css/main2.css" />
</head>
<body>
<h2 id="tophead">CUCC Expedition Handbook</h2>
<h1>Drill Battery Charging</h1>
<h1>Makita Drill Battery Charging</h1>
<p>[None of this applies to the Bosch drills and their battery packs.]
<h2>Instructions for charging in 2018</h3>
<p>Please check with a battery nerd whether this is still up to date. It was valid on Friday 27th July 2018.
<p> These instructions are for the
Pro Peak/ Makita Charger [photo needed]: This will charge all Makita drill batteries.
This is the charger which has the Makita slide-socket for the battery which is connected to the yellow ProPeak box.
<h3>Short Instructions</h3>
<p>First insert the battery.
<p><img src="i/propeak.jpg" align="right" hspace="10px"/>
<p>
Check that screen looks like this: Displaying <br>
<p style="
color:darkblue;
background-color:lightblue;
display: block;
margin-top: 1em;
margin-bottom: 1em;
margin-left: 10px;
margin-right: 65%;
border: 2px solid blue;
padding:2%;
font:22px/30px monospace;">
LiIo CHARGE<br>
C=3300mAh 14.4Vp
</p>
<p>If this is not the case then move to <a href="#long">the long instructions</a>.
<br><br>
<p>If it is showing <em>exactly</em> as shown above, hold down the "<b>Enter, Start Stop</b>" button
(the one at the <b>right-hand end</b>, the <b>4th one from the left</b>) for two seconds.
The screen will display "battery check" and then start charging.
<p>The screen will then look something like below
(but with different numbers) when charging:
<p style="
color:darkblue;
background-color:lightblue;
display: block;
margin-top: 1em;
margin-bottom: 1em;
margin-left: 10px;
margin-right: 65%;
border: 2px solid blue;
padding:2%;
font:22px/30px monospace;">
CHG 0.04 00002<br>
LI+3.26A 15.331V
</p>
<p>If this is not the case then move to <a href="#long">the long instructions</a>.
<h3 id="long">Long Instructions</h3>
<p>First insert the battery.
<p>If the charging screen is not displaying the settings shown above then the correct <b>charging settings</b> need to be selected.
You can do this as follows.
<ul>
<li>First using the "<b>Batt Type</b>" button (First from the left) cycle through the settings until <b>Li-ion</b> is displayed.
<li>Next using the "<b>Enter, Start Stop</b>" button (4th from the left) select the "<b>C=</b>" field
(this will flash when selected) then increase or decrease the current using the "<b>Inc</b>" or "<b>Dec</b>" buttons
(2nd and 3rd from the left) until <b>3300mAh</b> is displayed.
<li> Using the "<b>Enter, Start Stop</b>" button cycle to the next "<b>Vp</b>" field. Again use the "<b>Inc</b>" or
"<b>Dec</b>" buttons until <b>14.4Vp</b> is displayed.
</ul>
<p>Now hold down the "<b>Enter, Start Stop</b>" button for 2 seconds until "<b>Battery Check</b>" is displayed
and the screen looks similar to below, but with different numbers:
<p style="
color:darkblue;
background-color:lightblue;
display: block;
margin-top: 1em;
margin-bottom: 1em;
margin-left: 10px;
margin-right: 65%;
border: 2px solid blue;
padding:2%;
font:22px/30px monospace;">
CHG 0.04 00002<br>
LI+3.26A 15.331V
</p>
<h2>Background knowledge about drills and batteries</h2>
<p>This information will not go out of date.
<h3>Drills - read this!</h3>
<p>Note that the drills have no battery-voltage monitoring at all, and the
monitoring circuit in the battery is bypassed when connected to the drill. Thus the drill can easily be used to over-discharge a
battery, so please <b>stop drilling when it gets slow</b> and put on a new
battery, unless it's an emergency. Drilling with an excessively-sagged
voltage <b>will</b> knacker the weakest cell-pair. If your battery
does get to this state, try to charge it up as soon as possible. Cells
must not be left at &lt;2V for any length of time as they rapidly
(hours/days?) degrade to useless in this state (and that pair will
need replacing - which means reassembling it back in Cambridge and welding in a new cell pair).</p>
<h3>Makita charging protocol issues</h3>
<figure>
<img src="i/makita2.jpg">
<figcaption>
<em>An unmodified Makita mains charger</em>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>Makita have put very 'conservative' software in the batteries (as bought) which
will stop them working on an as-bought, unmodified Makita charger, even when they are in
fact fine. The monitoring board in the batteries is powered from the 1st cell pair so
that pair tends to get discharged more than the others when left
sitting for the 11 months of not-expo. If an unbalanced (or
over-disharged, or too-hot) pack is inserted into the Makita charger
the charger and battery will do serial-comms negotiation, the charger
will refuse to charge the battery and <em>the battery will remember</em> this.
If you try this 3 times, the battery will mark itself bad and will
never charge again on a Makita charger. Only a replacement circuit
board in the battery can fix this (or new software if we knew how to nobble it).</p>
<p>Such batteries are normally still fine and charge on a sensible (RC
- Radio Control, because RC people are the main market for these
chargers) charger, possible after a "balance charge" to get the cells in
the pack in sync again. Expo has a couple of chargers capable of doing a "balance charge" (Yellow Pro-power
Prodigy II). Unfortunataly Makita don't build the 14.4V packs with
the necessary connections to the cells, so the circuit board in the battery has to be replaced to
make this work easily for expo. For 2018 this was done for 7 of our
packs, and 3 automatic balance chargers were built by Wookey.</p>
<h2>Instructions for charging</h3>
Further explanation: the charger uses a different pair of electrical connections from those used by the drill - that's why there are
not just two electrical connectors in the charger - to accommodate those extra connections.
<figure>
<img src="i/makita-panel2.jpg" width=45%>
<figcaption>
<em>A close-up of the control panel of an unmodified Makita mains charger</em>
</figcaption>
</figure>
0) <li>If a battery has green insulation tape on it it has been
modified by us and will not charge on a Makita standard charger. It
must be charged on the balance chargers (or RC chargers). Untaped
(standard) batteries will not charge on the balance chargers, so must
be charged on the Makita chargers (or RC charger). All batteries will
charge on the RC chargers, but not as fast as on the Makita
charger. Go to <a href="#RCcharge">RC charger</a>.</li>
<h3>Types of charger</h3>
<p>We have these types of charger; the non-mains chargers are all at top camp and can run all night using the car batteries:
<ul>
<li>Makita green/turquoise plastic as-bought mains-powered charger - only at base camp.
<li>ProPeak/Makita charger - a yellow ProPeak box with a blue LCD display connected to the green battery slide connector cut out from a Makita charger.
<li>Balance charger - This is the set of 3 (2 half-width) chargers made from old green Makita chargers.
They have a set of 4 LEDs. (The full-width one only has 1 LED in 2018).
<li>RC charger - a black all-purpose charger with blue LCD display.
</ul>
<h3>Makita batteries</h3>
<p>New for 2018 is varying battery capacity. We have 3Ah, 4Ah and 5Ah
packs. Bigger packs will take longer to charge from empty. The
capacity is on the cell label next to the yellow connector.</p>
@@ -30,77 +164,22 @@ manual, but is very useful for indicating when a pack is known to be
charged, flat, or partly discharged. Slide the slider to show green
for full, red for flat, half and half for 'partly used'.</p>
<h3>Using Makita charger</h3>
<p>This is blue charger with 3 LEDs, and diagrammatic charging info on RH side. CHarges at up to 100W.</p>
<ol>
<li>Make sure charger is powered (flashing green LED).</li>
<li>Plug batt into Makita charger. It should start charging.</li>
<li>Look at the LEDs for status - the legend is printed on the charger.
If it flashes 'broken battery' (flashing red and gren LED) at you
after a few seconds, use the yellow (Pro-Peak Prodigy II) RC charger instead.</li>
<li>Eventually it should show '100%' (steady green LED) (in about 1
hour max). You are done.</li>
</ol>
<h3>Using Balance charger</h3>
<p>This is the set of 3 (2 half-width) chargers made from old Makita chargers. They have a set of 4 LEDs. (The full-width one only has 1 LED in 2018). Charges at 40W.</p>
<ol>
<li>Make sure charger is powered (flashing green LEDs).</li>
<li>Plug batt into charger. After a few seconds it should start charging.</li>
<li>Look at the LEDs for status - the legend is printed on the RH end charger. Steady red for bulk charging to 80%. Steady orange for last 20% charging. Steady green for finished. If it flashes red and beeps (repeated 5 times) something is wrong - see table. If you get an 'undervoltage' reading, use an RC charger instead to get the charging started.</li>
<li>Eventually it should show '100%' (steady green LEDs). (1hr 50 max possible charge time). You are done.</li>
</ol>
<h3 id="RCcharge">Using Accucell 6 RC charger</h3>
<p>This is black all-purpose charger with blue LCD display. CHarges at up to 50W</p>
<p>The Yellow Propeak chargers do the same job, and insturcuctions are
similar, but have no fan, no backlit display, and if pack is low
voltage will charge at C/10 (10% of normal) until voltage rises
sufficiently. Ensure that charge rate is set to 4000mA otherwise
charging will be very slow. Charges at up to 50W (5W in C/10 gnetle start).</p>
<ol>
<li>Make sure charger is powered (display lit up)</li>
<li>Connect charger to battery (either hardboard adaptor or empty
Makita base adaptor). Check polarity is correct with hardboard
adaptor.</li>
<li>Check display says 'Lion' or 'Lipo' and '14.4V' and '3A' and 'CHARGE'. Hold
down 'start/enter' button (on right). It will do a battery check.</li>
<li>If it shows '4' as the number of cells, then press 'start/enter'
again. Charging will start (fan comes on, display changes). If it
shows anything else like 'polarity reversed' or 'connection break'
then fix the connection to the battery. If it shows '3' as number of
cells it is probably knackered, but possibly can be coaxed back into
action. Find a battery expert - don't just use the charger anyway.</li>
<li>Once it beeps and says 'FULL' (flashing) then you are done (should
be less than 2 hours). Display shows number of mAh put in in
bottom right. Should be a number like 250 for each hole drilled
(between 50 and 2900 depending how discharged it was).</li>
</ol>
<h3>Makita batteries: taped and un-taped</h3>
<p>If a battery has green insulation tape on it it has been
modified by us and <b>will not charge</b> on an unmodified as-bought Makita charger.
<ul>
<li>Taped batteries must be charged on the balance ProPeak (or RC chargers).
<li>Untaped (standard, as-bought) batteries will not charge on the balance chargers, so must
be charged on the Makita charger (or RC charger).
</ul>
All batteries will
charge on the RC chargers, but not as fast as on the as-bought (mains power only) Makita
charger. Go to <a href="#RCcharge">RC charger</a>.</li>
<h3>Can I tell if a battery is already charged?</h3>
<p>Simplest it try to charge it again and find that it says it is done
<p>Simplest is try to charge it again and find that it says it is done
in a couple of minutes (Up to 4 mins on the balance chargers). This
may 'waste a life' on batteries that still work on the Makita
charger. Checking it on the RC charger will not waste a life. It will
@@ -128,40 +207,95 @@ cells (2.5Ah, 20A) (Sponsored by uk18650.com).</p>
<p>The drill discharges at 26A current draw when drilling (~400W), so
that's 13A per cell in a 2P configuration.</p>
<h3>Makita charging protocol issues</h3>
<h3>Using Makita mains charger</h3>
<p>Makita have put very 'conservative' software in the batteries which
will stop them working on the Makita charger, even when they are in
fact fine. The monitoring board is powered off the 1st cell pair so
that one tends to get discharged more than the others when left
sitting for the 11 months of not-expo. If an unbalanced (or
over-disharged, or too-hot) pack is inserted into the makita charger
the charger and battery will do serial-coms negotiation, the charger
will refuse to charge the battery and the battery will remember this.
If you try this 3 times, the battery will mark itself bad and will
never charge again on a makita charger. Only a replacement monitoring
board can fix this (or new software if we knew how to nobble it).</p>
<p>This is the green/turquoise charger with 3 LEDs, and diagrammatic charging info on RH side. Charges at up to 100W.</p>
<ol>
<li>Make sure charger is powered (flashing green LED).</li>
<li>Slide battery into Makita charger. It should start charging.</li>
<li>Look at the LEDs for status - the legend is printed on the charger.
If it flashes 'broken battery' (flashing red and gren LED) at you
after a few seconds, use the yellow (Pro-Peak Prodigy II) charger instead.</li>
<li>Eventually it should show '100%' (steady green LED) (in about 1
hour max). You are done.</li>
</ol>
<h2>Everything below here may be out of date due to breakages</h2>
<h3>Using Balance charger</h3>
<p>This is the set of 3 (2 half-width) chargers made from old green/turquoise Makita chargers.
They have a set of 4 LEDs. (The full-width one only has 1 LED in 2018). Charges at 40W.</p>
<ol>
<li>Make sure charger is powered (flashing green LEDs).</li>
<li>Plug batt into charger. After a few seconds it should start charging.</li>
<li>Look at the LEDs for status - the legend is printed on the RH end charger. Steady red for bulk charging to 80%. Steady orange for last 20% charging. Steady green for finished. If it flashes red and beeps (repeated 5 times) something is wrong - see table. If you get an 'undervoltage' reading, use an RC charger instead to get the charging started.</li>
<li>Eventually it should show '100%' (steady green LEDs). (1hr 50 max possible charge time). You are done.</li>
</ol>
<h3 id="RCcharge">Accucell 6 RC charger</h3>
<p>This is black all-purpose charger with LCD display. Charges at up to 50W</p>
<p>The Yellow Propeak chargers do the same job, and instructions are
similar, but have no fan, no backlit display, and if pack is low
voltage will charge at C/10 (10% of normal) until voltage rises
sufficiently. <b>Ensure that charge rate is set to 4000mA</b> otherwise
charging will be un-usably slow. Charges at up to 50W (5W in C/10 gnetle start).</p>
<ol>
<li>Make sure charger is powered (display lit up)</li>
<li>Connect charger to battery (either hardboard adaptor or empty
Makita green/turquoise base adaptor). Check polarity is correct with hardboard
adaptor.</li>
<li>Check display says 'Lion' or 'Lipo' and '14.4V' and '3A' and 'CHARGE'. Hold
down "<b>Enter, Start Stop</b>" button
(the one at the <b>right-hand end</b>, the <b>4th one from the left</b>) . It will do a battery check.
<p style="
color:darkblue;
background-color:lightblue;
display: block;
margin-top: 1em;
margin-bottom: 1em;
margin-left: 10px;
margin-right: 65%;
border: 2px solid blue;
padding:2%;
font:22px/30px monospace;">
LiIo CHARGE<br>
C=3300mAh 14.4Vp
</p></li>
<li>If it shows '<b>4</b>' as the number of cells, then press "<b>start/enter</b>"
again. Charging will start (fan comes on, display changes). If it
shows anything else like '<b>polarity reversed</b>' or '<b>connection break</b>'
then fix the connection to the battery. If it shows '<b>3</b>' as number of
cells it is probably knackered, but possibly can be coaxed back into
action. Find a battery expert - don't just use the charger anyway.</li>
<li>Once it beeps and says 'FULL' (flashing) then you are done (should
be less than 2 hours). Display shows number of mAh put in in
bottom right. Should be a number like 250 for each hole drilled
(between 50 and 2900 depending how discharged it was).</li>
</ol>
<hr />
<p>Such batteries are normally still fine and charge on a sensible (RC
- Radio Control, because RC people are the main market for these
chargers) charger, possible after a balance charge to get the cells in
the pack in sync again. Expo has a couple of these (Yellow Pro-power
Prodigy II). Unfortunataly Makita don't build the 14.4V packs with
balance connections to the cells, so the PCB has to be replaced to
make this work easily for expo. For 2018 this was done for 7 of our
packs, and 3 automatic balance chargers built.</p>
<p>Note that the drills have no battery-voltage monitoring at all, and the
monitoring circuit is bypassed when conected to the drill (the charger
uses a different connector-pair from the drill - that's why there are
3 slots). Thus the drill can easily be used to over-discharge a
battery, so please stop drilling when it gets slow and put on a new
batt, unless it's an emergency. Drilling with an excessively-sagged
voltage is a good way to knacker the weakest cell-pair. If your battery
does get to this state, try to charge it up as soon as possible. Cells
must not be left at &lt;2V for any length of time as they rapidly
(hours/days?) degrade to useless in this state (and that pair will
need replacing).</p>
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@@ -22,26 +22,31 @@ devise new routes to reach them.
<p>
To get the most recent version you will need to ask someone who is competent in using the version control system
(it's in loser/gpx/ and is generated from the survex data by a script). A fairly recent copy (17 July 2018)
can be downloaded from here: <a href="essentials.gpx">essentials.gpx</a> (190K).
can be downloaded from here: <a href="essentials.gpx" download>essentials.gpx</a> (190K).
<h2 id="up">Upload the GPS essentials file to your device</h2>
<p>
This is where it gets tricky because every device and phone app does this differently.
<h3>Old Garmin handheld GPS devices</h3>
<h3>GPS phone apps</h3>
<p>
These can only import cave entrance locations (waypoints) and paths (tracks) using the Garmin communication protocol.
This means that you need special software on your laptop in addition to a USB cable that connects your laptop to the Garmin device.
This should work the same way whether you have an iPhone or an Android phone.
<p>We do not have a recommended app as there is nothing we have found which quite does quite what we need. We are using
<a href="http://www.gpsessentials.com/">www.gpsessentials.com</a> and <a href="https://osmand.net/">OsmAnd</a> so try one of these first. If you discover a good app, tell everyone about it.
<p>
Visit the <a href="http://www.gpsessentials.com/">www.gpsessentials.com</a> website and read the manual (top left, on the menu bar: "Manual") for how to do this.
Except that the manual doesn't tell you.
<p>The OsmAnd documentation says:
<ul>
<li>On a Windows machine, use "GPSbabel for Windows" which has an easy to use graphical user interface:
<a href="https://www.gpsbabel.org/download.html">download GPS Babel</a>
<li>On a Linux machine the core gpsbabel command line utility is probably already installed;
but there is no simple, easy to use graphical interface.
Instead you must use other software such as QGIS or Viking (download using your usual Linux software installer)
which uses gpsbabel to talk to your device.
If this doesn't work then there are no useful error messages.
<li>"The simplest way to view a track you've downloaded is to tap on it in your device's file manager and choose to open it in OsmAnd. After that, you'll see the track in My places - My tracks or in the Dashboard - My tracks."
</ul>
<p>
More documentation on this to follow...
<h3>Modern Garmin handheld GPS devices</h3>
<p>
Connect the GPS device to your laptop (or the expo laptop) using the USB cable. A folder will open on the laptop showing the contents
@@ -49,17 +54,29 @@ of the device.
You will see a subfolder called "GARMIN". Open the folder "GARMIN" and copy the file essentials.gpx which you
downloaded into that folder.
<h3>Old Garmin handheld GPS devices</h3>
<p>
These need the Garmin communication protocol to import cave entrance locations (waypoints) and paths (tracks). You can't do it by simply copyingfiles.
This means that you need special software on your laptop in addition to a USB cable that connects your laptop to the Garmin device.
<p>
<figure><a href="https://www.cablestogo.com/learning/connector-guides/usb">
<img src="t/usb-minib-5pin-m-c.jpg"'
alt="mini-USB socket"
/></a>
<figcaption><em>mini-USB b socket</em></figcaption>
</figure>
If your Garmin has a <b>mini</b>-USB socket, rather than the usual micro-USB found in phones, then you might have an "old" Garmin handheld, but some modern handhelds still use this old socket.
<p>Once you have the right cable and connected your handheld to your laptop:
<ul>
<li>On a Windows machine, use "GPSbabel for Windows" which has an easy to use graphical user interface:
<a href="https://www.gpsbabel.org/download.html">download GPS Babel</a>
<li>On a Linux machine the core gpsbabel command line utility is probably already installed;
but there is no simple, easy to use graphical interface.
Instead you must use other software such as QGIS or Viking (download using your usual Linux software installer)
which uses gpsbabel to talk to your device.
If this doesn't work then there are no useful error messages from Viking.
</ul>
<h3>GPSessentials phone app</h3>
<p>
This should work the same way whether you have an iPhone or an Android phone, so long as you are using this app
<a href="http://www.gpsessentials.com/">www.gpsessentials.com</a>.
<p>
Visit the website and read the manual (top left, on the menu bar: "Manual") for how to do this.
Except that the manual doesn't tell you.
More documentation on this to follow...
<h3>Another phone app...</h3>
More documentation on this to follow...
<hr />
<ul id="links">

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<h2>How do I...?</h2>
<ul>
<li><a href="paperwork.html">Arrange to come on expo</a> - Things you have to do.</li>
<li><a href="baseops.html">Learn what I need to do</a> - Base camp operations.</li>
<li><a href="lights.html">Charge my light</a> - at top camp and at base camp.</li><br>
<li><a href="phone.htm">Send a message to top camp</a> - or base camp.</li><br>
<li><a href="uploading.html">Upload my photos</a> - of people, landscape and cave entrances.</li>
@@ -45,7 +48,11 @@
<dl>
<dt><a href="stool.htm">On a matter of stooling</a></dt>
<dd>Seriously, this quite important. Do read this document, and when you have finished having a laugh, remember it.</dd>
<dt>Camps</dt>
<dt><a href="baseops.html">Base camp operations</a></dt>
<dd>To attend expo we need to know who you are and what you are doing. This is where we keep the formal records of who is where and what they are doing.
</dd>
<dt>History of Camps</dt>
<dd><a href="../bcamps.htm">Base camp</a> and <a href="../tcamps.htm">History of high camps</a></dd>
<dt><a href="meteo.htm">Weather</a></dt>

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@@ -6,23 +6,39 @@
</head>
<body>
<h2 id="tophead">CUCC Expedition Handbook</h2>
<h1>Placeholder</h1>
<p>This is not the page you are looking for.
<p>This will be replaced with the information you want as soon as someone gets around to writing it. Why not find out how to do this yourself ?
<h1>Charging your light (and phone)</h1>
<h2>Top camp</h2>
<p>Top camp has no mains 230V electricity.
<p>Top camp does have solar-powered car batteries, so you need to bring a <b>12V car-type charger</b> for your caving light and phones.
<p>At top camp there is one 12V socket with an expo-supplied plug providing a pair of USB sockets.
Since 2 USB sockets is not enough for everyone's phones, you need to <b>bring your own</b> 12V-to-USB plug-in.
(Providing proper permanently-wired USB charging is on our to-do list.)
<p>USB to multiple-USB (e.g. 1:4) expander boxes don't work for charging lights.
Even for charging phones they are very, very slow.
So if you are using USB to charge your caving light <b>you must</b> bring a light charger which <b>plugs directly into the 12V socket</b>.
<h2>Base camp</h2>
<p>Base camp has mains power and UK-style 230V mains sockets as well as EU-style mains sockets.
So your usual UK chargers will work and you don't need to bring any converter plugs.
<p>We have one expo USB charging unit (labelled with purple gear-tape: the expo colour):
it has 6 powered big USB sockets and we have 2 microUSB cables and 2 USB-C cables.
People also bring their own mains-to-USB chargers but there may not be enough.
So to be sure, <b>bring your own</b> (and label it with your gear tape).
<h2>USB cables</h2>
You need to bring your own USB charger cable for your phone (typically big USB to micro-USB).
Yes, there are a lot of them about, but they are nearly all personal gear.
So <b>bring your own</b> (and a spare) and label it with your gear-tape colour.
<h2>Phone recharging battery</h2>
If you are doing a lot of surface prospecting, and especially if you are using your phone for GPS location, you will want to bring a spare battery which re-charges your phone, e.g.
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Best-Sellers-Cell-Phones-Accessories-Portable-Phone-Power-Banks/zgbs/wireless/7073960011">one of these</a>.
<h2>Recharging drill batteries</h2>
This is much more complicated and has a <a href="charging.html">webpage dedicated to the several different chargers</a> that should be used.
<hr />
<ul id="links">
<li><a href="index.htm">Expedition Handbook</a>
<ul>
<li><a href="survey/index.htm">Surveying guide</a> - Overview</li>
<li><a href="look4.htm">Prospecting guide</a> &ndash; Overview</li>
<li><a href="rescue.htm">Rescue guide</a></li>
</ul></li>
<li><a href="../index.htm">Back to Expedition Intro page</a></li>
<li><a href="../../index.htm">Back to CUCC Home page</a></li>
</ul>
</body>
</html>

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@@ -9,39 +9,67 @@
<h1>What you need to do to join Expo</h1>
<h3><a href="#permission">Permission</a></h3>
<h3><a href="#insurance">Insurance</a></h3>
<h3><a href="#medical">Medical Form</a></h3>
<h3><a href="#nok">Next of Kin record</a></h3>
<h2 id="permission">Permission</h2>
<p>You have to be <em>individually</em> invited to come on the
CUCC (Cambridge University Caving Club) Expo. You cannot just turn up
and assume that you can join in. This is important as our relationship
with the local caving club - whose permission we have to apply for every year -
depends on this. Get in touch with CUCC <a href="https://www.srcf.ucam.org/caving/wiki/Main_Page">here</a>.
<p>Your permission to attend must be confirmed in writing by the expedition leader before the expo starts.
<p>We have to know when you are arriving and when you are leaving
so that we can ensure we don't have too many or too few people at any one time for
(a) the food we buy in advance, (b) the transport up and down the mountain, (c) rigging top camp, cairned routes and caves at the beginning of expo,
(d) derigging caves, bringing gear down from the mountain and storing equipment at the end of expo, and
(e) bed space at base and our bivvy camps, (f) the water supply at top camp.
<h3>Deposit and Bank of Expo</h3>
<p>You must have an account opened with the online <a href="bankofexpo.html">Bank of Expo</a> before you arrive on expedition.
This is done by paying your deposit to the expo bank account.
Your online username and password for <a href="bankofexpo.html">Bank of Expo</a> will be emailed to you when your deposit
has been received by the expo treasurer. The amount of the deposit depends on the number of weeks you will be attending.
<p>If you are late paying the deposit you may need to pay your entire expected cost, not just the deposit, before you can attend.
The expo treasurer will tell you what is required.
<h2 id="insurance">Insurance</h2>
<p>A requirement for expoers is that everyone get insurance in case of a rescue; this can be ruinously expensive
(running to millions of euros for multi-day rescues!) and so it is a good idea to get cover for this.
<p>A <b><font style="color:red">very strong suggestion</font></b> for expoers is that everyone gets insurance in case of a rescue; this can be ruinously expensive
(running to millions of euros for multi-day rescues!) and so you <b><font style="color:red">almost certainly need to get cover</font></b> for this.
<p>
In the past, <a href="https://www.snowcard.co.uk/adventure-travel-insurance">Snowcard</a>
has been the most popular option but feel free to find something else
if it seems more reasonable (but make sure it is definitely legit). The policy option you need for Snowcard is
if it seems more reasonable but make sure it covers what you need: expedition potholing with ropes in
unexplored caves, helicopter rescue, repatriation to the UK,
adequate reimbursement of costs incurred in coping with accident (clothing cut off a broken leg, for example).
The policy option you need for Snowcard is
<a href="https://www.snowcard.co.uk/activity-levels/max-adventure">"Max Adventure"</a>
which covers original cave exploration in an area which has "organised local cave rescue".
<p>It is very difficult to find out whether any insurance policy actually covers expedition caving or not.
Some have complete
exclusions for, say "potholing and climbing which normally requires guides or ropes", some are less explicit.
<h3>Local cave club membership</h3>
<p>If you are a member of the local cave club then some of your rescue expenses would be covered by that club.
<p>Here's the form to fill in for VfH&Ouml; membership:
<h3>Local Austrian cave club membership</h3>
<p>If you are a member of the local cave club then some of your rescue expenses would be covered by that club. <b>However</b> this may be a long-term committment for membership fee payment by CUCC Expo, it is not just a matter of individual choice.
<p>Once you have agreement to do this from the expo organisers, here is the form to fill in for VfH&Ouml; membership:
<a href="https://www.dropbox.com/s/2wk00itu8y2hx1l/Beitrittserkl%C3%A4rung.doc?dl=0">download</a>
Found here
from here
<a href="http://www.hoehle.at/wordpress/verein/unterstutzungsmitglied-spenden/">www.hoehle.at/wordpress/verein/unterstutzungsmitglied-spenden/</a>
and needs to be emailed to <em>hoehle (at) tele2.at </em> which goes to Robert TWC (The Wonder Caver).
<p>Cost of membership is &euro;30. There are details of how to do the bank transfer on their website
but generally Robert rocks up at the dinner and cash is handed over.
<p>Accident Insurance of the V&Ouml;H:
<p>Cost of VfH&Ouml; membership is &euro;30 per year. There are details of how to do the bank transfer on their website
but generally Robert turns up at the dinner and cash is handed over. But do not let this informality mislead you: a renewal fee may be due every year thereafter and the expo may be responsible. This is why you need to understand the implications of using this mechanism to get insurance and get agreement from the expedition.
<em>
<div style="margin-left:30px">
<p>
The Austrian Speleological Association (V&Ouml;H) offers insurance for leisure time activities to their
members in cooperation with the Allianz-Elementar insurance company. All members of caving clubs within
the V&Ouml;H organisation (except Caving Club Ebensee) are automatically assured to the following conditions.
To choose a club to become a member, please visit:
<a href="http://hoehle.org/mitgliedsvereine">hoehle.org/mitgliedsvereine</a>.
<p>
Insurance sum:
<ul>
@@ -53,7 +81,7 @@ Insurance sum:
<p>
The insurance is valid for all leisure time accidents, except accidents in residental areas and households. The insurance is valid world wide. The insurance sum is subsidiary with other insurances.
<p>
Invalitidy: Invalidity will be paid from 25 - 100 % (no benefit below 25 %).
Invalidity: Invalidity will be paid from 25 - 100 % (no benefit below 25 %).
<p>
Exclusion of liability: Reasons for exclusion of liability are influences from alcohol or drugs, using aircrafts, air- and motorsports, explosives, war, diving (pressure chambers are not covered), expeditions in glaciated areas outside of Europe and participation at competitions.
<p>
@@ -61,20 +89,27 @@ All statements without guarantee.
<p>
Contact person for questions (also responsible for forwarding claims to the insurance company):
Thomas Exel versicherung@hoehle.org Tel: 0699/ 18 21 91 17
</em>
</div>
<h2 id="medical">Medical Form</h2>
<p>At the start of expo we have asked people to fill in an anonymous form
for their health and medical details that will be kept secure in the tattie hut and only accessed
for their health and medical details that will be kept secure in the potato hut and at top camp and will only accessed
in the case of an emergency.
<p>
If anybody has any suggestions for updates to this form or other things apart from basic medical
details, history and requirements (and your insurance details) please suggest this by emailing the expo list (having first read the previous emails on this matter).
details, history and requirements (and your insurance details) please suggest this by emailing the expo list
(having first asked a 2018 expo member to show your the previous email correspondance on this matter).
<h2 id="nok">Next of Kin record</h2>
<p>Please write the contact details of your next of kin above your name (you have your own page for "Money owed to...") in the Bier Book
<p>Please write the contact details of your next of kin above your name (you have your own page for "Money owed to...") in <a href="bierbook.html">the Bier Book</a>
at base camp as soon as you arrive.
<p>This is in addition to listing your next of kin in your medical record which you will have submitted in advance of expo.
This duplication is for safety and in case your <em>contactable</em> next of kin has changed address or phone number between you submitting your medical form and you arriving at expo.
<h2 id="pn">Your mobile phone number and email</h2>
<p>You will include your mobile phone number and email address in your medical record, and you will also write them into your page of the Bier Book on arrival at expo.
<hr />
</body>
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@@ -9,22 +9,38 @@
<h1>Mobile Phone Use Guide</h1>
<pre><b>
Base camp: 00 43 664 763 0255<br>
Top camp: 00 43 664 582 5229 - pending. Arriving Staudnwirt 16th July 2018.
Top camp: 00 43 664 582 5229 - incoming calls and texts only. <br>
Top camp: 00 43 664 871 6782 - what it uses to send texts and make calls (from 2018)
</b>
</pre>
<p>After many years of using complicated radio systems of varying degrees of complication and reliability, we have finally settled on a foolproof method for communicating callouts from top camp to base camp: mobile phones. Cheap Austrian pay-as-you-go mobiles have sufficiently good reception on the plateau for sending SMS messages, and even occasionally for conversation.</p>
<p>After many years of using complicated radio systems of varying degrees of complication and reliability,
we have finally settled on a foolproof method for communicating callouts from top camp to base camp: mobile phones.
Cheap Austrian pay-as-you-go mobiles have sufficiently good reception on the plateau for sending SMS messages,
and even occasionally for conversation.</p>
<p>After the 2016 expo we decided that it would be a good idea to
<a href="http://expo.survex.com/years/2016/rescue_debrief.html">invest in second phone at top camp</a>
which could be used at cave entrances
in the case of a rescue. This has not yet been done.
<p>For some years (including 2018) we have been using the "B-Free" mobile scheme provided by the A1 company.
We get reception even inside the Stone Bridge bivvy.
(In 2011 we tried using another provider which picked up the T-Mobile network,
however the reception was not as good as B-Free.)
<p>B-Free&nbsp;has an annual renewal of the SIM which gets you the phone number and connection (plus some credit). More credit comes in the form of a receipt with a printed code or a card with a scratch-off secret number.</p>
<p>B-Free&nbsp;has an annual renewal of the SIM which gets you the phone number and connection (plus some credit).
More credit comes in the form of a receipt with a printed code or a card with a scratch-off secret number.</p>
<h3>Robust phone<img src="t/ruggear-p860-explorer-02-th.jpg" align="right" margin="5px"></h3>
We use "feature phones" with real buttons not smartphones with touch sensitive screens.
The top camp phone is particularly robust Russian
<a href="https://www.gsmchoice.com/en/catalogue/ruggear/p860explorer/gallery/">
"RugGear explorer p860"</a> with yellow plastic case and rubber grips, a talk time of 10 hours, and a stand-by time of 18 days.
It has 2 SIM slots whcih is really useful when we fail to renew last-years SIM in time and have to buy a new one (2018).
<h3>Annual renewal</h3>
<p>This has to be done in less than 13 months otherwise it costs a more as you
essentially have to start from scratch (~&euro;10 for a new SIM with &euro5 of
credit). The phone cannot be used in the last month, but renewal is cheaper
than starting from scratch.</p>
than starting from scratch. "Renewal" is just a matter of buying another &euro;20 credit.</p>
<h3>Checking credit</h3>
<p>The simplest way (which doesn't require understanding a number read out to
you in German) is to dial <b>*101#</b>. This doesn't actually make a
you in German) is to dial <b>*101#</b> ("0 BALANCE" in the contacts list in the phone book). This doesn't actually make a
call but results in you getting an SMS-like message containing the balance
details. There's no charge for this.</p>
<h3>Adding credit</h3>
@@ -33,19 +49,21 @@ details. There's no charge for this.</p>
We used to be able to get this form the supermarket, but no longer (2018).
They'll give you a printed receipt with the code to key in. See
below for how to use it.</p>
<p>(Other options we've used were:
<p>Other options we've used were:
<ul>
<li>go to the Hartlauer shop (on right of road to railway station, not far
beyond the post office). Wave the phone and ask for a 'B-free Bon'.</li>
</ul>
<p>You should be given a aufladecode, which may require scratching off a panel at lower right back of card)
<p>You should be given an "aufladecode", which may require scratching off a panel at lower right back of card)
or just a long "till-receipt" strip with AUFLADEWERT: EUR 20.00 at the top. </p>
<ul>
<li>Dial <b>0800 664290</b> (if you're lucky someone might have put this in the phone address book possible under the name "Check balance")</li>
<li>Dial <b>0800 664290</b> (if you're lucky someone might have put this in the phone address book
possibly under the name "0 ADD CREDIT" or "_ ADD CREDIT")</li>
<li>Listen to an audio menu and Press 2 (to select something)</li>
<li>Then type in number on the scratch panel, followed by #</li>
<li>Listen to the number read back to you, and press 2 to confirm code is correct.</li>
<li>Press No (red key) twice to end the call.</li>
<li>Listen to the number read back to you (in German), and press 2 to confirm code is correct.</li>
<li>Press "No" (red key) twice to end the call.</li>
<li>Check the balance on the phone has been increased by calling <b>*101#</b> (or "0 BALANCE")
<li>This is all confirmed as working correctly in 2018.
</ul>
<h3>Tips and Tricks</h3>
@@ -54,6 +72,9 @@ or just a long "till-receipt" strip with AUFLADEWERT: EUR 20.00 at the top. </p>
particular spot to check messages, try dialling the balance request
number (<b>*101#</b>) once there - this usually seems to trigger delivery of any
pending SMS messages.</li>
<li> Commonly used numbers are put at the top of the contact list ("phone book") in each phone
by prefixing the name with "0 " or "_", e.g. "0 ADD CREDIT", "0 BALANCE", "0 BASE CAMP" etc.
</ul>
<hr />
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@@ -12,291 +12,15 @@
<p>Seeing all these excellent (and otherwise) photos on the website may have
inspired you to say "How can I take photos like that?" or maybe "What a load of
crap, I bet I can do better than that". Either way, it is a sad fact that
CUCC's photography today is about as good as its surveying 10 years ago.
Writing "how to do it" guides and ranting at people seems to have caused a lot
of progress on the surveying front, so we clearly need such a guide for expo
photography.</p>
we don't have as many good photographs available to all as have been taken by individuals.</p>
<p>However, as yet, no one has volunteered to write one, probably because
no-one is really qualified to do so... So this document is just an outline
of (a) what has been done up to now and (b) what needs doing in the future
without much (c) how to do it.</p>
<h3>What has been done up to now ?</h3>
<p>Many people take cameras to expedition, a few make it up to Top Camp, and
a very few get underground, where the equipment may or may not work, people
may or may not cooperate or get too cold and photographers may persist or
give up. Hence there are plenty of photos of Base Camp, festering, dead cars
etc., quite a lot of the walk in, Top Camp, the plateau, a fair number of
entrances, and a very few good underground shots.</p>
<p>Getting a collection of photos together to make an "expedition slide set"
has taken years, and is still not really satisfactory. There must be some
more good pictures out there ? August 1996 saw the first 99 slides (they
missed one) put onto Photo-CD, and a start made in getting these onto the
website. This is proving quite hard work, because digitisation is not very
tolerant of poor exposure, especially different exposure across the photo.
Correcting this is pretty time-consuming, though it can reveal unexpected
detail that was never really visible in slide shows.</p>
<p>Quite a bit of "notebook" photography has been done with a video camera
and digitiser card. This is a handy way of getting quick pictures of
entrances and approach routes (and much cheaper than Photo-CD, if you have the
equipment), but the quality leaves a certain amount to be desired (it would
be improved by a slightly less cheapo video digitiser). Some pictures are
also here courtesy of video of postcard-sized prints.</p>
<p>For 1997, a 2700 dpi transparency scanner should ensure that your
photos will make it to the web site quickly, without having to wait
to make up a set of 100 for a Photo-CD :-) Experience has also shown that
the final results are somewhat better as we have more control at the
scanning stage. See the <a href="../1623/161/pixlw.htm">Lost World</a>
virtual tour.</p>
<p>Since the above paragraphs were written, there has been a vast increase in
the prevalence of digital cameras. Unfortunately as these are even more
expensive than their film counterparts people are exceedingly unwilling to take
them underground. Hence underground photography has been rather thin on the
ground of late; we desperately need more photos of the further reaches of
Steinbr&uuml;ckenh&ouml;hle, for example.</p>
<h3>What needs doing in the future ?</h3>
<p>A number of photographs specifically illustrating topics in the Expedition
Handbook would be useful. We would prefer that this involved a practice rescue
in Yorkshire rather than a real one in Austria. Likewise, a bit of photography
during a practice survey trip would be good. Another topic, on which we have
neither words nor pictures, would be expedition rigging.</p>
<p>Almost every entrance needs documenting photographically, to make it
easier to find and identify. Some aerial photos would really help here. As a
temporary measure, there are various photos taken from the Br&auml;uning
Wall. With a bit of surface-survey visualisation software, these may even
get a few entrances marked...</p>
<p>The major need is for quality underground photographs. Of the couple of
score or so representing the 21.5km of Kaninchenh&ouml;hle, almost all had
to have quite a lot of hacking about to make them look acceptable on the
medium of the computer screen, though this has become rather easier now
we have access to a transparency scanner. In particular we are short of
pictures of the following:</p>
<ul>
<li>Vertical France</li>
<li>Left Hand Route</li>
<li>Garden Party</li>
<li>Powerstation</li>
<li>Drunk and Stupid</li>
<li>Dreamtime</li>
<li>Limo series, Gnome, Vestabule etc. etc.</li>
<li>Flapjack, Flat Battery, Gob on You etc.</li>
<li>Siberia, Leadmine, Maze</li>
<li>Interview Blues</li>
<li>Fine Clean Rock, Henri's Cat</li>
<li>Bottomless Pit, Hammeroids and other verticals</li>
<li>Alternative Universe, Dr. Snuggles etc.</li>
<li>Forbidden Land</li>
</ul>
<p>and we could do with rather more of</p>
<ul>
<li>Right Hand Route</li>
<li>Puerile Humour</li>
<li>Flat France (nearer France than Brownie's Cunt)</li>
<li> ... and almost everywhere else</li>
</ul>
<p>Photos showing approach routes would be useful, as would photos taken
(and carefully documented) during surface surveys.</p>
<h3>How to do it ?</h3>
<p>Scenario: Photographer gathers together all the equipment needed for a trip.
Three photographers and several helpers have volunteered. Photographer comes
back late and knackered from one trip - postpones the photographic trip.
Weather is crap - no one goes up to Top Camp, another postponement. One of the
photographers has to go home - hands all gear to another. Expo dinner - no one
doing anything. Finally the trip is on. Photographer at Top Camp religiously
tests all the equipment - it works perfectly.</p>
<p>Dodging showers, the team heads up to and into the cave. Through Triassic
Park and to the scene of the first photo. All flash equipment fails to go off.
Change connectors. Fails. Use slaves. Fails repeatedly until second
photographer fires an electronic flash at the roof to see how high it is -
slaves fire bulb flashes in dazzling coruscation of light - no cameras with
shutters open. Try again, bulbs fail to fire. After about an hour and a half,
everyone freezing and irate, give up and move to another site. Similar
performance, but with a stronger, colder draught. Cave now floods as
mega-thunderstorm occurs on surface. Party retreat along Triassic Park,
pausing for one or two more attempts. Exit, apparently after total failure.</p>
<p>In fact, the second photographer, who hasn't had his gear out of its ammo
can since his previous expedition photographic trip three years earlier, does
turn out to have a few usable shots.</p>
<p>This is probably how <b>not</b> to do it, though it does illustrate the
problems. Can anybody write something more positive?</p>
<p>If you are looking for how to upload your holiday snaps and cave entrance photos,
then <a href="uploading.html">read these instructions</a>.</p>
<h3>Previous photography guide</h3>
<p><a href="archivedphoto.html">Previous attempts</a> at producing a useful expo photography
guide have been overtaken by events.
<hr />
<h3>More hints'n'tips, mainly on what not to do.</h3>
<ul>
<li>Don't use flash on camera, except a small flash used to fire slaves on
bigger flashes off-camera. Frontal lighting produces no shadows, so the
picture is flat and hard-to-understand. Also produces bright "red eye" in
cavers whose faces appear on the photo.</li>
<li>Do use a tripod - the heavier the better for photography, but worse
for caving with. Tiny pocket tripods are great for allowing cameras
topple off boulders and into the all-pervading mud, but crap for getting
your eye anywhere near the viewfinder.</li>
<li>Do use slaves. I don't mean people who will take orders (though they
certainly help - we call them "minions"). A slave is a small electronic
gadget which will fire one flash gun when another goes off. They are
triggered by the fast rising edge of light level produced by an electronic
flash, and will not go off in response to daylight, or a headlight flashing
across them. You can use several to ensure that all the flashes go off at the
same time, thus avoiding the problem that a caver has moved between two
manual firings of a flashgun, producing a "ghost" image.</li>
<li>Do use multiple flashes, but don't go over the top. Cavers see the cave
partly by their own head lamp, and partly by the lamps of others, so a
photo with multiple light sources looks "natural". However, with too many
lights, the result is a confusing mess. Two or three flashes are enough,
except in large chambers, where each flash is far enough apart to be clearly
seen as a separate caver/light patch.</li>
<li>Don't have more than two photographers working at once. Two cameras on
tripods using the same flashes is good economy, but more just reduces the
chances of the picture being taken in a finite time.</li>
<li>Don't use big flashes close to large boulders or to walls. To avoid
burning out the highlights and leaving deep shadows, try to get flashes
positioned so everything they illuminate is more-or-less the same distance
away. Often this means having your caver with his flash perched on a large
boulder, or hanging in the middle of a shaft.</li>
<li>To project light along a passage, or up a shaft, without burning out
the nearby walls, put a "funnel" of aluminium foil (shiny side in) over
the flashgun. This tends to change the effective guide number, so it's
worth doing some experiments in the UK first!</li>
<li>People can relate to photos looking straight up a shaft, but ones looking
straight down don't seem to work as well. Better if possible to get off to
one side and have a shot looking diagonally up or down.</li>
<li>Beware of posed action shots. Practice the timing and have them actually
moving when the flash fires, otherwise they look awkward and off-balance.</li>
<li>Photography rarely combines well with exploration - the trip just gets
slowed up too much with both bolting and photography and everyone gets cold.
However, quick snapshots at pitch heads or at the exits from crawls can
work if the photographer is fairly well practised. Similarly, photography
doesn't combine well with surveying, as both activities are slow-moving and
result in lots of people generating great clouds of steam.</li>
<li>Solo cave photography is possible, but like solo surveying, is time
consuming and frustrating. Photos with no people lack scale and are generally
a waste of effort.</li>
<li>Photography against the light can be very creative, but is also more
prone to cocks-up. Don't let the camera "see" the flash directly. A flash
hidden from the camera by a caver makes a good silhouette, but exposure is
difficult to calculate except by experience (ie. lots of failed shots).
A flash hidden round a bend, and reflecting off wet walls can also be very
good. However, this doesn't work as well when everything is more-or-less
muddy.</li>
<li>Take notes. When starting underground photography, some shots work well,
whilst others fail. If you don't record what you did, you'll never know why.
Once you can avoid those shots which produced crap results, you have more
practice refining the good shots, and people will be more willing to come
on photo trips with you.</li>
</ul>
<hr />
<h3>Choice of gear</h3>
<p>Just a few brief notes:</p>
<p><b>Camera:</b> preferably use a robust camera with minimal electronics
(the most sophisticated of metering is useless in the dark :-) For black and
white work, many prefer 2&frac14;" square format (120) film, often using an
old folding camera. For colour, 35mm is almost universal. If you want an SLR,
the old Zenith ones can stand being dropped a considerable distance in an
ammo can. They also fulfil the final criterion on cost: don't take a camera
underground unless you can afford to write it off.</p>
<p>Some cavers in recent years have had some success with pocket-size digital
cameras. These are much more delicate than a film camera, but vastly smaller
and lighter and easier to carry around. It seems unlikely that these will
supplant film cameras for 'artistic' photography with fifteen different
flashguns in enormous chambers, but they have the vast advantage of allowing
you to see on the spot if you've taken a completely blank exposure. They are
probably ideally suited to 'notebook' style photography, just photographing
anything you find without worrying overmuch about quality: any photos are
better than no photos.</p>
<p><b>Flash:</b> You can get more light from a bulb flash than electronic,
and they are less sensitive to damp, though still far from wholly reliable.
Bulbs cost a lot more per flash than an electronic gun, and are less reliable
as the master flash for setting off slave units. Some slave units also fail
to fire bulb flashes, or can even be damaged by them. And finally, it is
getting hard to obtain flashbulbs as they are widely regarded as obsolete.</p>
<p><b>Film:</b> If possible, use more light, rather than faster film. In big
passage or chambers, this may not be feasible. 400 ASA film is fine for
postcard sized prints, but dreadfully grainy for enlargements, for
projection, or to be scanned for the website. The best results for scanning
seem to come from 100 ASA negative film - go for amateur films, which have
more exposure latitude, cope with a greater contrast range in the subject,
and are invariably cheaper than professional emulsions. 64 or 100 ASA seems
to be about right for slides.</p>
<p><b>Protection:</b> the classic is the ex-military ammunition tin or
"ammo-can". There are two sizes useful for photography, 3&frac12;" and 6".
The latter are really heavy and clumsy to carry, whilst the former are a very
tight or impossible fit for most SLRs with the lens on (and carrying a
camera with the lens off is asking for shit inside). Whichever is used,
the inside should be padded with old karrimat or something similar. Don't
rely on the little metal handle - these have been known to pop their spot
welds - use some chunky nylon tape, especially in vertical cave.</p>
<p>One alternative is the Peli or Otter polycarbonate case (the Peli ones are
famously guaranteed against all damage except shark attacks, bear attacks and
children under 5). These appear to be genuinely indestructible and much lighter
than ammo cans, but they are expensive. <a href="../sponsr.htm">Sponsorship</a>
from Peli in 2004 might bring a few more into circulation.</p>
<p>Another option is the plastic "BDH" or "Daren" drum. These are lighter, have
less awkward corners to catch in crawls, but are more difficult to fit
rectangular objects into. They are also slightly more prone to fall over, and
the lids are more easily mislaid. "Rocket" tubes are similar.</p>
<hr />
<ul id="links">
<li><a href="index.htm">Expedition Handbook</a>
<ul>
<li><a href="survey/index.htm">Surveying guide</a> - Overview</li>
<li><a href="look4.htm">Prospecting guide</a> &ndash; Overview</li>
<li><a href="rescue.htm">Rescue guide</a></li>
<li><a href="rigit.htm">Rigging guide</a></li>
<li>Photography guide</li>
</ul></li>
<li><a href="../infodx.htm">Index to info/topics pages</a></li>
<li><a href="../indxal.htm">Full Index to area 1623</a>
<ul>
<li><a href="../areas.htm">Area/subarea descriptions</a></li>
</ul></li>
<li><a href="../index.htm">Back to Expedition Intro page</a></li>
<li><a href="../../index.htm">Back to CUCC Home page</a></li>
</ul>
</body>
</html>

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60
handbook/tortoise/tortoise-win.htm
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@@ -1,42 +1,46 @@
<html>
<head>
<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8" />
<title>Cambridge University Caving Club Expedition Handbook.</title>
<link rel="stylesheet" type="text/css" href="../../css/main2.css" />
</head>
<body>
<h1>Windows 7 How-to No.1:<br>TortoiseHg and Putty</h1>
<h2 id="tophead">CUCC Expedition Handbook</h2>
<p>Struggling to get TortoiseHg to work on Windows (Service Pack 1,
32-bit)? Here’s a quick guide which I hope explains how to sort it all
<body>
<h1>Windows: TortoiseHg and PuTTy</h1>
<p>Struggling to get TortoiseHg to work on Windows (v7 or v10)? Here’s a quick guide which I hope explains how to sort it all
out.</p>
<p>You first want to ascertain that both <a href="http://tortoisehg.bitbucket.io/">TortoiseHg</a> and <a href="http://www.chiark.greenend.org.uk/~sgtatham/putty/download.html">Putty</a> are nicely installed. Then run Putty;</p>
<p>First download and install both <a href="http://tortoisehg.bitbucket.io/">TortoiseHg</a>
and <a href="http://www.chiark.greenend.org.uk/~sgtatham/putty/download.html">PuTTy</a>. Then run PuTTy;</p>
<h2>Putty:</h2>
<p>Upon opening putty, you’ll be greeted with a screen similar to this;</p>
<h2>PuTTy:</h2>
<p>Upon opening PuTTy, you’ll be greeted with a screen similar to this;</p>
<div style="text-align: center">
<img src="expoPuttyscreen.png" alt="Putty Configuration Screen" />
<p class="caption">Putty Configuration Screen</p></div>
<img src="expoputtyscreen.png" alt="PuTTy Configuration Screen" />
<p class="caption">PuTTy Configuration Screen</p></div>
<p>Type <tt>expo@expo.survex.com</tt> into the box under Host Name, and type a
name into the box under 'Saved Sessions' then click 'Save' (in the
above case called 'Expo' – this means you don’t have to type in
expo@expo.survex.com each time you use Putty. You simply click on
expo@expo.survex.com each time you use PuTTy. You simply click on
'Expo' then 'Load'). Then click 'Open'.</p>
<p><b>Please note that when connecting to the tatty hut in Austria, you will need to log onto a different server. In this case, type:<tt>expo@expo.potato.hut</tt>, and follow the instructions above.</b></p>
<p>You will then see the following screen:</p>
<div style="text-align: center">
<img src="expoPuttyscreen2b.png" alt="Putty Login Screen" />
<p class="caption">Putty Login Screen</p></div>
<p>Don’t worry if you can’t see anything happening onscreen as you type in the password, this is what’s supposed to happen; so just type in the password and press the return/enter key.</p>
<p>Don’t worry if you can’t see anything happening onscreen as you type in the password,
this is what’s supposed to happen; so just type in the password and press the return/enter key.</p>
<p>Done! At some point you may come across a Windows popup which asks
you to verify the address you're attempting to log into (at which
point you select 'hells-to-the-yeah', or equivalent). You have now made sure that your computer is happy to log on using TortoiseHg. To log out of Putty, type 'logout', then press the return/enter key.</p>
point you select 'hells-to-the-yeah', or equivalent).
<p>You have now made sure that your computer will be happy to log on using TortoiseHg.
To log out of PuTTy, type 'logout', then press the return/enter key.</p>
<p><b>Note that when connecting in the potato hut in Austria</b>, you now use exactly the same procedure.
<h2>TortoiseHg:</h2>
@@ -58,7 +62,6 @@ choose where you want the repository to be created by clicking
'Browse' next to the 'Destination' box. As far as I recall, you don't
need to edit anything in the box where it says 'Hg command'. Click 'Clone'!</p>
<p><b>Again, if logging on from the tatty hut, type:<tt>ssh://expo@expo/loser</tt>to get things to work.</b></p>
<p>Voila! If you're now looking at the following screen or similar,</p>
@@ -66,9 +69,22 @@ need to edit anything in the box where it says 'Hg command'. Click 'Clone'!</p>
<img src="expoRepositoryScreen2.png" width="75%" height="50%" alt="Hg Workbench Linked" />
<p class="caption">Hg Workbench Linked</p></div>
<p>All is well.</p>
<p>That will have cloned the /loser/ repository to your laptop.
<p>
If you want to update the handbook or other parts of the website you will also need to clone the /expoweb/ repository.
You can scan what's in the repositories (read only) using your web browser:
<p>If anything seems unclear, please email me at elmo2058@gmail.com, and I will reinstall things on my own machine to see where things get confusing. Watch this space for another webpage/update with how to install/use WINSCP for straightforward file transfers.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://expo.survex.com/repositories/home/expo/loser/graph/">loser</a> - the survex survey data</li>
<li><a href="http://expo.survex.com/repositories/home/expo/expoweb/graph">expoweb</a> - the website itself, including generation scripts</li>
<li><a href="http://expo.survex.com/repositories/home/expo/tunneldata/graph/">tunneldata</a> - the tunnel (and therion) data and drawings</li>
<li><a href="http://expo.survex.com/repositories/home/expo/troggle/graph/">troggle</a> - the database-driven part of the website</li>
</ul>
<p>If anything seems unclear, please email me at elmo2058@gmail.com, and I will reinstall things
on my own machine to see where things get confusing.
</p>
<hr />

57
handbook/travel.html
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@@ -27,6 +27,14 @@ expo is here</a>.</p>
<p>The last bit: <a href="#lastbit">from Bad Aussee to the campsite</a>
<h3>Kit by post</h3>
In these days of Amazon deliveries, you can get kit delievered directly to base camp at Gasthof Staudnwirt at the address above.
Make sure it's clearly marked "CUCC EXPO" as well as your name, then it will be clear to Karin (the Gasthof owner).
Please don't send stuff in this way before base camp has people staying at it.
We don't want to create work for Karin by making her keep a lot of packages carefully for us.
<p>For emergency delieveries, e.g. if all the batteries die and we need new ones in a hurry,
we have an Amazon account registered in Germany whcih can do next day delivery to Staudnwirt. Ask Wookey for details.
<h2>By Train</h2>
<p>This is (these days) pretty easy to arrange and has the advantage
of allowing for stopping off en route in Paris, Cologne, Frankfurt,
@@ -40,6 +48,9 @@ expo is here</a>.</p>
emergencies. It's more civilised to set off at comfy time one day,
spend a night in a city en-route and arrive the next day, or use the
night-train to Vienna.</p>
<p>If part of the train journey has a bus replacement service (as in 2018), it can be easier to simply
get the bus all the way from Salzburg (bus station is at the train station) to Bad Aussee, with a change at Bad Ischl.
See <a href="#salz">below</a>.</p>
<p>Use bahn.de for timetabling, and Seat61.com for good advice,
especially if you are not familiar with long-distance rail
@@ -83,9 +94,13 @@ even if you don't actually get off the train there, just change ticket! Book ear
<p>There is a
<a href="http://fahrplan.oebb.at/bin/query.exe/en?revia=yes&existOptimizePrice=1&country=overseas&initialAvail=ON&S=Bad%20Aussee%20Postamt&Z=Bad%20Aussee%20Staudnwirt&start=1">
bus, 956</a> from Bad Ausee Bahnhof (Station) to 'Grundlesee', timed to meet train arrivals.
It should be there abou 15 mins after you get off the train.
It goes straight past the campsite. Cost is &euro;2.40 (2018). Get off at stop named 'Staudnwirt Gallhof',
about 100m slightly downhill from, and before the bus reaches, the <a href="http://www.openstreetmap.org/?mlat=47.61616&mlon=13.81218#map=19/47.61616/13.81218">Gasthof/campsite</a>.</p>
It should be there about 15 mins after you get off the train.
It goes straight past the campsite and you can see the times of all the buses posted at the bus stop
(a sign with a big green "H" on a yellow background). Cost is &euro;2.40 (2018). Get off at stop named 'Staudnwirt Gallhof',
about 100m slightly downhill from, and before the bus reaches,
the <a href="http://www.openstreetmap.org/?mlat=47.61616&mlon=13.81218#map=19/47.61616/13.81218">Gasthof/campsite</a>.</p>
<p>To walk to the centre of town, turn right out of the
station and just follow your nose up the road (past playing
fields on the left, keeping left at the only junction, then
@@ -96,12 +111,27 @@ about 100m slightly downhill from, and before the bus reaches, the <a href="http
<p>If you walk this far and now want to get the bus, you can also catch the 956 bus from here.
The bus stop you want is on the opposite side of the road from the Post Office building.
Take the 956 or the No. 1 bus which also goes to the campsite; or take any bus that goes to Grundlesee.
The jouney takes 6 minutes and 'Staudnwirt Gallhof' is the 4th stop.</p>
Take the 956 which is the only bus that goes to Grundlesee.
The jouney takes 6 minutes and 'Staudnwirt Gallhof' is the 4th stop.
However there are only 8 buses a day in July and August (outside school term).
They leave the Post Office (2018) at
06:38,
08:00,
10:25,
11:20,
12:25,
14:25,
15:20,
16:25,
and the last one is at 18:24. To get an up to date timetable, look online at
<a href="http://fahrplan.oebb.at/bin/query.exe/en?ld=19&L=vs_postbus&seqnr=3&ident=md.06573180.1532462020&REQ0HafasScrollDir=2">
http://fahrplan.oebb.at</a>.
<p>It's a little over 3km (2 miles) from the Post Office to Base Camp; to walk, take the exit
of the roundabout to the right, following signs to G&ouml;ssl. Now follow
the route description <a href="#roadbit">given below</a> for this section of road.</p>
the route description <a href="#roadbit">given below</a> for this section of road.
<b>On foot or by bike </b> ou can avoid walking along the bit of the road without footpaths by taking the path labelled "Waldruhe" on the left just over the river bridge as you leave the town.
This path is on the other side of the river and is shady and cool in hot weather. The path rejoins the road about 250m from Staudnwirt.</p>
<p>There is a <a href="http://ausseerland.salzkammergut.at/detail/article/15763-narzissenjet.html">taxi service</a>
@@ -178,14 +208,15 @@ a map</a> of the stopping points: the Gasthof is #14 and the train station is #2
town centre. Both routes meet up in the town centre at a peculiar three-way junction. There seem to be no obvious
rules here, except not to bump into anything.
<h4 id="#roadbit">Bad Aussee centre to Base Camp</h4>
<h4 id="roadbit">Bad Aussee centre to Base Camp</h4>
From the three-way junction, which is just by the Post Office ("Postampt"), follow the sign to
<b>G&ouml;ssl</b>, passing immediately through a very narrow section of road
with traffic lights to control the flow of traffic. The road crosses a
river, and shortly after swings left and then right, around a blind
corner, before leaving the town. After about 2 miles of pleasant
meandering through woods and meadows, look out for <b>Gasthof
Staudnwirt</b> on the left. <b>Base Camp</b> is <a href="http://www.openstreetmap.org/?mlat=47.61616&mlon=13.81218#map=19/47.61616/13.81218">in the field on the
Staudnwirt</b> on the left. <b>Base Camp</b> is
<a href="http://www.openstreetmap.org/?mlat=47.61616&mlon=13.81218#map=19/47.61616/13.81218">just behind the car-park on the
right</a>, opposite the Gasthof.</p>
<h2>By Air</h2>
@@ -210,9 +241,9 @@ From the three-way junction, which is just by the Post Office ("Postampt"), foll
(M&uuml;nchen Hbf) from where you can take a train which stops at
Attnang-Puchheim. Now follow the description below from this point.</p>
<h3>Salzburg Airport to Bad Aussee</h3>
<h3 id="salz">Salzburg Airport to Bad Aussee - train</h3>
<p>Take a bus to the main railway station (Salzburg Hbf) and a train to
<p>Take a bus to the main railway station (Salzburg Hbf)for &euro;2.70 (2018) and a train to
<b>Attnang-Puchheim</b>. The train will probably be bound for
Wein (Vienna). Change at Attnang-Puchheim and get on a local
train to <b>Bad Aussee</b>. This train will probably be bound
@@ -232,13 +263,17 @@ From the three-way junction, which is just by the Post Office ("Postampt"), foll
right-hand side. The train continues for a few minutes to arrive at Bad
Aussee.</p>
<p>If part of the train journey has a bus replacement service (as in 2018), it can be easier to simply
get the bus all the way from Salzburg (bus station is at the train station) to Bad Aussee, with a change at Bad Ischl.
If done as two tickets this is &euro;10:80 to Bad Ischl and then
&euro;6.40 from Bad Ischl to Bad Aussee (in 2018). There is often a long wait at Bad Ischl.
<h3>The Last Bit</h3>
<p>See 'Bad Aussee Railway <a href="#lastbit">station to expo campsite</a>' in Train section above</p>
<h2>By Bus</h2>
<p>Bus can be the cheapest way to get to expo (and probably the
<p>Bus can be the cheapest way to get to expo (and possibly the
lowest-carbon). Not as nice as the train, but
practical. It takes about 30 hours. International buses to
Linz (on the route to 'Vienna'/'Wien') exist, otherwise Munich (&pound;50)

5
handbook/update.htm
View File

@@ -98,6 +98,7 @@ processes that a maintainer would want to do.</p>
<li><a href="#tickingoff">Ticking off QMs</a></li>
<li><a href="#surveystatus">Maintaining the survey status table</a></li>
<li><a href="#automation">Automation</a></li>
<li><a href="#arch">Archived updates</a></li>
</ol>
Appendices:
<ul>
@@ -346,7 +347,9 @@ http://expo.survex.com/expo/surveys/surveytable.html http://expo.survex.com/surv
</pre>
<h3><a id="arch">Archived updates</a></h3>
<p>Since 2008 we have been keeping detailed records of all website updates in the version control system.
Before then we manually maintained <a href="../update.htm">a list of updates</a> which are now only of historical interest.
<h2>The website conventions bit</h2>
<p>This is likely to change with structural change to the site, with style changes which we expect to implement and with the method by which the info is actually stored and served up.</p>

3
infodx.htm
View File

@@ -95,7 +95,6 @@
<li><a href="links.htm">Links</a> to other relevant websites</li>
<li><a href="https://www.srcf.net/mailman/listinfo/caving-expo">Mailing list</a></li>
<li><a href="sponsr.htm">Sponsors</a> - our thanks to those supporting Expo</li>
<li><a href="update.htm">What's new</a> in the archive</li>
</ul>
<h2>Useful files external to website</h2>
@@ -221,6 +220,8 @@ Information for each year's expedition<br/>
<td><a href="years/2016/">2016</a></td>
<td>|</td>
<td><a href="years/2017/">2017</a></td>
<td>|</td>
<td><a href="years/2018/">2017</a></td>
</tr>
</table>
<hr />

22
intro.htm
View File

@@ -8,15 +8,16 @@
<body>
<h1>CUCC Austria Expeditions: Introduction</h1>
<p><b>For almost four decades, Cambridge University Caving Club, CUCC, have
<p><b>For more than four decades, Cambridge University Caving Club, CUCC, have
explored caves on the <span lang="de-at">Loser</span> Plateau, about 80 km east
of <span lang="de-at">Salzburg</span> in Austria. These WWW pages (over 800
pages and over 700 images) contain much of the documentation from the
exploration of these annual expeditions.</b></p>
of <span lang="de-at">Salzburg</span> in Austria.
The cave system we have discovered and explored over these years now
extends to more than 150km of passages and shafts.</b></p>
<p>The expedition runs in the Summer, usually August. This year we are in the
middle of preparations. More details of last years expo are
available on the <a href="years/2017/index.html">Expo 2017 page</a>.</p>
<p>The expedition runs in the Summer, usually July/August. This year we are in the
middle of <a href="years/2018/index.html">Expo 2018 </a>.This website (over 800
pages and over 700 images) contain much of the documentation from the
exploration of these annual expeditions.</p>
<p>For those coming on an Austria expedition for the first time, this great
bulk of material can seem a little overwhelming. However, it's important for
@@ -32,7 +33,7 @@ should read.</p>
Austria in 1976 as something of a reccy, but 1977 saw increased numbers,
definite objectives and the first undergraduates from CUCC. From 1978, the
annual expedition has become largely a CUCC undergraduate-organised affair,
but with many exCS (ex-Cambridge Speleologists) still taking part.</p>
but with many ExCS (ex-Cambridge Speleologists) still taking part.</p>
<p>Although originally we camped at <span lang="de-at">Altaussee,</span> by
the lake, since 1983 <a href="bcamps.htm">Base Camp</a> has been at
@@ -73,10 +74,7 @@ Thinking of visiting the area independently ? Then please read
<img alt="STOP" src="images/Stop.jpg" class="icon" width="40" height="40"/></p>
<p>This archive is constantly being updated as the current year's work
is integrated into the whole, and as "catching up" on old documentation
proceeds. To see what's changed recently, see the
<a href="update.htm"><b>What's New</b></a>
page.</p>
is integrated into the whole.</p>
<p><b>We need to know what you think</b> about this site - did you find
your way around easily? Did you find any errors, omissions, some confusion?

38
primer.htm
View File

@@ -12,19 +12,28 @@
<p>The annual CUCC expedition to Austria lasts around five weeks each summer
and concentrates mainly on new exploration in the high alpine karst of the
<span lang="de-at">Loser</span> plateau (about 80km E of <span
lang="de-at">Salzburg).</span> The current main projects are:</p>
lang="de-at">Salzburg).</span> Recent large projects are:</p>
<ul><li><b>Steinbr&uuml;ckenh&ouml;hle</b> the most major cave in the area <em>not</em> to have been connected to the master Schwarzmooskogel system, and the principal focus of CUCC's work since 2000. At the end of Expo 2008 it had been explored to 622m in depth and 16km in length.</li>
<ul>
<li><b>Schwarzmooskogel</b> system formed from the linkage of several caves into one system, 150km or so long, and 1033m deep,
of which around nine tenths of the length (and the highest and deepest points) were explored by CUCC. This now includes connections
with Kaninchenh&ouml;hle) and Steinbr&uuml;ckenh&ouml;hle.</li>
<li><b>Tunnocksschaht</b> and <b>Balkonh&ouml;hle</b> the focus of exploration since 2016.
</li>
<li><b>Steinbr&uuml;ckenh&ouml;hle</b> the most major cave in the area and the principal focus of CUCC's work 2000-2008.
</li>
<li><b>Eislufth&ouml;hle</b> originally explored in the very early days of CUCC expeditions in the late seventies, to a depth estimated at 506m. The original explorers simply concentrated on getting to the bottom and were not unduly concerned with
exploring side passages or with accurate surveying; hence a return and
reexploration was began in 2004, and continued in 2005, 2006 and 2007.</li>
<li><b>Schwarzmooskogel</b> system formed from the linkage of several caves into one system, 55km or so long, and 1033m deep, of which around two-thirds of the length (and the highest and deepest points) were explored by CUCC. CUCC has not been directly involved in exploration in the system itself since 2002, but we will be returning in 2009 (via Kaninchenh&ouml;hle) to seek a connection with Steinbr&uuml;ckenh&ouml;hle.</li>
</ul>
<p>Over a hundred shorter caves have also been explored and
recorded over the twenty year history of expo, and prospecting for new
entrances is still an important activity.</p>
<p>Over two hundred shorter caves have also been explored and
recorded over the forty year history of expo, and prospecting for new
entrances is still an important activity. Every year we discover more new entrances than we can explore.</p>
</td></tr></tbody></table>
@@ -91,9 +100,10 @@ book and survey book. The plateau camps are right outside the cave entrances, an
are reached by a toll road (on which we have a deal which avoids paying each
time) which ascends 900m to a tourist car park from where it is around a 30
minute walk (on good paths) to the edge of the plateau. From here it is a
one-and-a-half-hour slog across rough limestone pavements to the <span
lang="de-at">Steinbr&uuml;ckenh&ouml;hle</span> bivvy site (or somewhat less to
the bivouac site at <span lang="de-at">Eislufth&ouml;hle</span>).</p>
one-and-a-half-hour slog across rough limestone pavements to the main <span
lang="de-at">Steinbr&uuml;ckenh&ouml;hle</span> bivvy site.
We also have other shorter-lived high camps such as <span
lang="de-at">Organh&ouml;hle</span> (from 2017).</p>
<p>The plateau camps and and Base camp are linked by mobile phone, which are much
better for coordinating and reporting activities than the radios we used
@@ -142,12 +152,12 @@ than a job not done at all. This is especially true of cave survey and passage
description, or, for prospecting, the recording of locations.</p>
<p>To get a feel for what trips are like, it is perhaps worth dipping into
one of the <a href="years/2005/logbook.html">logbooks</a>
one of the <a href="years/2018/logbook.html">logbooks</a>
<a href="years/2001/log.htm">for</a> <a href="years/2003/logbook.html">recent
</a> <a href="years/2004/logbook.html">years</a>. To
</a> <a href="years/2017/logbook.html">years</a>. To
get an idea of what expo will be trying to achieve, there is a "<a
href="years/2009/mission.html">mission statement</a>" for the current year. And
to see how much potential there is, a glance at the current <span
href="years/2018/index.html">mission statement</a>" for the current year. And
to see how much potential there is, a glance at a recent <span
lang="de">Steinbr&uuml;ckenh&ouml;hle</span> <a
href="1623/204/qm.html">Question Mark list</a> is a revelation. Leads are
numbered by year, with the oldest first. Following links from any of these
@@ -159,7 +169,7 @@ sort of caving.</p>
href="1623/161/top.htm"><span lang="de-at">Kaninchenh&ouml;hle</span></a>,
which absorbed almost all of CUCC's expedition effort from 1989 to 1999 and now
forms the largest single component of the <span
lang="de-at">Schwarzmooskogel</span> system. The description runs to c 90 A4
lang="de-at">Schwarzmooskogel</span> system. The description runs to about 90 A4
pages when printed, so is rather too much to digest in one go! We recommend
looking at the printed survey to get an overall idea of the cave and which
parts have the most potential. However, as this is too big for a web page,

52
years/2018/logbook.html
View File

@@ -85,9 +85,9 @@ Returned to Top Camp ~5 mins before callout - blame my (Crossley's) slow rigging
<div class="timeug">T/U: 10 hours</div>
<div class="tripdate" id="t2018-07-12a">2018-07-12</div>
<div class="trippeople"><u>Jon Arne Toft</u>, Dickon Morris</div>
<div class="triptitle">Prospecting Kleine Wiltkogel</div>
<div class="triptitle">Prospecting Kleine Wildkogel</div>
<p>Prospected along side of Kleine Wiltkogel along South edge heading West. Little but choked shafts for most of the day, but promising end of the day with two good leads. Conveniently, another team claimed to have discovered one of the better finds 2 hours before we found it. This is heavily disputed and questionable.
<p>Prospected along side of Kleine Wildkogel along South edge heading West. Little but choked shafts for most of the day, but promising end of the day with two good leads. Conveniently, another team claimed to have discovered one of the better finds 2 hours before we found it. This is heavily disputed and questionable.
</p>
@@ -191,7 +191,7 @@ Found the entrance* - but it is 60m away from where the GPS says it should be.
<p>
Attempted to get to the location the GPS says it is but it's impenetrable bunde.
<p>
Stashed in 115 ent: 1 2-man tent, 2 krrimats, 1 litre water (a bit brown - filled in gents loo at berg restaurant), small bag muesli.
Stashed in 115 ent: 1 2-man tent, 2 karrimats, 1 litre water (a bit brown - filled in gents loo at berg restaurant), small bag muesli.
<p>
I rigged a smallwater collection poly sheet which may get 2-3 litres if we're lucky.
<p>
@@ -202,9 +202,9 @@ Photos taken from turn-off point [from Stoger Weg]: "a barely discernable trod"
This "trod" is much more overgrown thanit was in 1982.
<p>
*POSTSCRIPT - on 17th July found a 1981 photo of the entrance which shows that the entrance I found wasn't the main entrance.
I had found the upper (smaller) entrance at N 47.66743 E 013.80945 alt. 1547m (WGS84 Garmin Venture Cx)
I had found the upper (smaller) entrance CUCC-PS01-2018 at N 47.66743 E 013.80945 alt. 1547m (WGS84 Garmin Venture Cx)
7
<div class="timeug">T/U: 0 hours</div>
<div class="timeug">T/U: 4 mins</div>
<div class="tripdate" id="t2018-07-13b">2018-07-13</div>
<div class="trippeople"><u>Todd Rye</u>, Dickon Morris</div>
@@ -232,5 +232,47 @@ Out of rope so we surveyed out.
<div class="timeug">T/U: 0 hours</div>
<div class="tripdate" id="t2018-07-18b">2018-07-18</div>
<div class="trippeople"><u>Philip Sargent</u></div>
<div class="triptitle">Solo walking in area of 115 entrances [and CUCC-PS01-2018]</div>
<p>11:00-18:00 up the hill.
<p>Found p115x the main "train tunnel" hole. Did a 200+ averaging GPS reading on p115x, Windloch, and cave 88 on the Stoger Weg.
<p>Carried safety gear from the entrance I found 4 days ago and stashed inside:
<ul>
<li>3l water in 3x 2l bottles
<li>2 karrimats
<li>1 small bag muesli
<li>12-man tent (inc. poles,pegs etc. [there is room to pitch this inside the entrance easily]
</ul>
I also rigged a 2sq.m. poly sheet and black foldable bucket to collect water.
<p>It took 2 trips and lots of bunde bashing to carry the stuff as I only had a small daysack.
<p>Route to p115x in old logbooks has been destroyed by 35y of pine growth.
<p>The new route is:
<p style="margin-left: 50px;">
go along Stoger Weg past Windloch (32) and further past the next cave (marked 88 in faded red paint) in LHS of path.
Go [10m] further
from there along Stoger Weg and leave path descending limestone karren down to right.
Proceed back along foot of karren slope and push aside
3-4 branches of bunde to reach a "path".<br><br>
Follow along this until you can descend steeply to the left (a few more branches of bunde) to steep "rockery" scramble
bank. Make your way with care down this and you should be able to see a truncated pine tree [4m high] on the
other side of a small gully. (When seen from the other side, this pine tree has branches in the shape of a figure "4".) Descend and traverse round
to the right and climb up to this pine tree across the gully.<br><br>
Now follow "path" down and to the right across 2 areas of soil/grass/loose stones to eventually reach a big pine tree
with a bend in the trunk at ground
level and a small cairn on the bend in the trunk. Continue down right through bunde with a little climb until you can
see a large dead twisted tree root across a gully. Descend and get to this via via lush grass and flowers on steep slope and loose soil.
<br><br>
At the twisted dead tree root there is an obvious route leading to the right. At this point you are only 13m from p115x but
you can't see it as it faces S. and you are approaching from the N. 10m on you pass a large anthill and then 3m further and you're there.<br><br>
You may see a water collection poly sheet a lot earlier but use this route to get to it. (I did it 3x today and lots of other routes are worse.)
<p>
Oh yes, on first visit to <b>CUCC-PS01-2018</b> this morning I went in: climbing down a 30 degree straight tunnel.
Roof is solid rock and floor is blocks
and rocks [and relic vadose features]. I counted 1m steps coming out and it's >14m long.
Continues deeper but I was in t-shirt and shorts. Slight cold outwards draft.
</p>
[Photos and GPS tracks and locations recorded.]
<div class="timeug">T/U: 10 mins</div>
</body>
</html>