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Battery charging - draft update

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<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd">
<html>
<head>
<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1" />
<title>CUCC Expedition Handbook: Drill Battery Charging</title>
<link rel="stylesheet" type="text/css" href="../css/main2.css" />
</head>
<body>
<h2 id="tophead">CUCC Expedition Handbook</h2>
<h1>Drill Battery Charging</h1>
<h2>Instructions for charging</h3>
0) <li>If a battery has green insulation tape on it it has been
modified by us and will not charge on a Makita standard charger. It
must be charged on the balance chargers (or RC chargers). Untaped
(standard) batteries will not charge on the balance chargers, so must
be charged on the Makita chargers (or RC charger). All batteries will
charge on the RC chargers, but not as fast as on the Makita
charger. Go to <a href="#RCcharge">RC charger</a>.</li>
<p>New for 2018 is varying battery capacity. We have 3Ah, 4Ah and 5Ah
packs. Bigger packs will take longer to charge from empty. The
capacity is on the cell label next to the yellow connector.</p>
<p>Each pack has a sliding indicator on the side. This is entirely
manual, but is very useful for indicating when a pack is known to be
charged, flat, or partly discharged. Slide the slider to show green
for full, red for flat, half and half for 'partly used'.</p>
<h3>Using Makita charger</h3>
<p>This is blue charger with 3 LEDs, and diagrammatic charging info on RH side. CHarges at up to 100W.</p>
<ol>
<li>Make sure charger is powered (flashing green LED).</li>
<li>Plug batt into Makita charger. It should start charging.</li>
<li>Look at the LEDs for status - the legend is printed on the charger.
If it flashes 'broken battery' (flashing red and gren LED) at you
after a few seconds, use the yellow (Pro-Peak Prodigy II) RC charger instead.</li>
<li>Eventually it should show '100%' (steady green LED) (in about 1
hour max). You are done.</li>
</ol>
<h3>Using Balance charger</h3>
<p>This is the set of 3 (2 half-width) chargers made from old Makita chargers. They have a set of 4 LEDs. (The full-width one only has 1 LED in 2018). Charges at 40W.</p>
<ol>
<li>Make sure charger is powered (flashing green LEDs).</li>
<li>Plug batt into charger. After a few seconds it should start charging.</li>
<li>Look at the LEDs for status - the legend is printed on the RH end charger. Steady red for bulk charging to 80%. Steady orange for last 20% charging. Steady green for finished. If it flashes red and beeps (repeated 5 times) something is wrong - see table. If you get an 'undervoltage' reading, use an RC charger instead to get the charging started.</li>
<li>Eventually it should show '100%' (steady green LEDs). (1hr 50 max possible charge time). You are done.</li>
</ol>
<h3 id="RCcharge">Using Accucell 6 RC charger</h3>
<p>This is black all-purpose charger with blue LCD display. CHarges at up to 50W</p>
<p>The Yellow Propeak chargers do the same job, and insturcuctions are
similar, but have no fan, no backlit display, and if pack is low
voltage will charge at C/10 (10% of normal) until voltage rises
sufficiently. Ensure that charge rate is set to 4000mA otherwise
charging will be very slow. Charges at up to 50W (5W in C/10 gnetle start).</p>
<ol>
<li>Make sure charger is powered (display lit up)</li>
<li>Connect charger to battery (either hardboard adaptor or empty
Makita base adaptor). Check polarity is correct with hardboard
adaptor.</li>
<li>Check display says 'Lion' or 'Lipo' and '14.4V' and '3A' and 'CHARGE'. Hold
down 'start/enter' button (on right). It will do a battery check.</li>
<li>If it shows '4' as the number of cells, then press 'start/enter'
again. Charging will start (fan comes on, display changes). If it
shows anything else like 'polarity reversed' or 'connection break'
then fix the connection to the battery. If it shows '3' as number of
cells it is probably knackered, but possibly can be coaxed back into
action. Find a battery expert - don't just use the charger anyway.</li>
<li>Once it beeps and says 'FULL' (flashing) then you are done (should
be less than 2 hours). Display shows number of mAh put in in
bottom right. Should be a number like 250 for each hole drilled
(between 50 and 2900 depending how discharged it was).</li>
</ol>
<h3>Can I tell if a battery is already charged?</h3>
<p>Simplest it try to charge it again and find that it says it is done
in a couple of minutes (Up to 4 mins on the balance chargers). This
may 'waste a life' on batteries that still work on the Makita
charger. Checking it on the RC charger will not waste a life. It will
quickly rise to 16.4V, and the current drop to 0.1A or so. That
indicates a full pack. It will tell you so after a while (1-5
mins).</p>
<h3>What sort of batteries are they</h3>
<p>The drill batts are 4S2P 14.4V lithium ion packs (8 18650 cells: 4 in
series, each being a parallel pair). This means that they are charged
as 4-cell packs, to 4.1V per cell-pair. They can be charged at up to
3A rate. Battery 1 has connector wired as balance connector. No other
packs have this yet (2017). The official Makita packs use Sony SE
US18650VT (1.5Ah, 20A high-drain) cells, and we have a few with with Samsung
INR18650-13Q (1.3Ah high-drain cells). All give a reliable 2.3-2.6Ah
capacity in practice, even after 9 years expo useage.</p>
<p>At end 2017 we bought two 4Ah packs. The non-makita one uses LG
DAHD21865 cells (2Ah, 25A). I can't read the Makita cell type without
unwelding the pack. For 2018 we made 3 new 5Ah packs from Samsung 25R
cells (2.5Ah, 20A) (Sponsored by uk18650.com).</p>
<p>The drill discharges at 26A current draw when drilling (~400W), so
that's 13A per cell in a 2P configuration.</p>
<h3>Makita charging protocol issues</h3>
<p>Makita have put very 'conservative' software in the batteries which
will stop them working on the Makita charger, even when they are in
fact fine. The monitoring board is powered off the 1st cell pair so
that one tends to get discharged more than the others when left
sitting for the 11 months of not-expo. If an unbalanced (or
over-disharged, or too-hot) pack is inserted into the makita charger
the charger and battery will do serial-coms negotiation, the charger
will refuse to charge the battery and the battery will remember this.
If you try this 3 times, the battery will mark itself bad and will
never charge again on a makita charger. Only a replacement monitoring
board can fix this (or new software if we knew how to nobble it).</p>
<p>Such batteries are normally still fine and charge on a sensible (RC
- Radio Control, because RC people are the main market for these
chargers) charger, possible after a balance charge to get the cells in
the pack in sync again. Expo has a couple of these (Yellow Pro-power
Prodigy II). Unfortunataly Makita don't build the 14.4V packs with
balance connections to the cells, so the PCB has to be replaced to
make this work easily for expo. For 2018 this was done for 7 of our
packs, and 3 automatic balance chargers built.</p>
<p>Note that the drills have no battery-voltage monitoring at all, and the
monitoring circuit is bypassed when conected to the drill (the charger
uses a different connector-pair from the drill - that's why there are
3 slots). Thus the drill can easily be used to over-discharge a
battery, so please stop drilling when it gets slow and put on a new
batt, unless it's an emergency. Drilling with an excessively-sagged
voltage is a good way to knacker the weakest cell-pair. If your battery
does get to this state, try to charge it up as soon as possible. Cells
must not be left at &lt;2V for any length of time as they rapidly
(hours/days?) degrade to useless in this state (and that pair will
need replacing).</p>
</body>
</html>

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<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1" />
<title>CUCC Expedition Handbook: Drill Battery Charging</title>
<link rel="stylesheet" type="text/css" href="../css/main2.css" />
<style>
p.bluedisplay {
color:darkblue;
background-color:lightblue;
display: block;
margin-top: 1em;
margin-bottom: 1em;
margin-left: 10px;
margin-right: 65%;
border: 2px solid blue;
padding:2%;
font:22px/30px monospace;
}
</style>
</head>
<body>
<h2 id="tophead">CUCC Expedition Handbook</h2>
<h1>Drill Battery Charging</h1>
<h1>Makita Drill Battery Charging</h1>
<p>[None of this applies to the Bosch drills and their battery packs.]
<h2>Instructions for charging in 2018</h3>
<p>Please check with a battery nerd whether this is still up to date. It was valid on Friday 27th July 2018.
<p> These instructions are for the
Pro Peak/ Makita Charger [photo needed]: This will charge all Makita drill batteries.
This is the charger which has the Makita slide-socket for the battery which is connected to the yellow ProPeak box.
<h3>Short Instructions</h3>
<p>First insert the battery.
<p><img src="i/propeak.jpg" align="right" hspace="10px"/>
<p>
Check that screen looks like this: Displaying <br>
<p class="bluedisplay">
LiIo CHARGE<br>
C=3300mAh 14.4Vp
</p>
<p>If this is not the case then move to the long instructions.
<br><br>
<p>If it is showing <em>exactly</em> as shown above, hold down the "<b>Enter, Start Stop</b>" button
(the one at the <b>right-hand end</b>, the <b>4th one from the left</b>) for two seconds.
The screen will display "battery check" and then start charging.
<p>The screen will then look something like below
(but with different numbers) when charging:
<p class="bluedisplay">
CHG 0.04 00002<br>
LI+3.26A 15.331V
</p>
<p>If this is not the case then move to the long instructions.
<h3>Long Instructions</h3>
<p>First insert the battery.
<p>If the charging screen is not displaying the settings shown above then the correct <b>charging settings</b> need to be selected.
You can do this as follows.
<ul>
<li>First using the "<b>Batt Type</b>" button (First from the left) cycle through the settings until <b>Li-ion</b> is displayed.
<li>Next using the "<b>Enter, Start Stop</b>" button (4th from the left) select the "<b>C=</b>" field
(this will flash when selected) then increase or decrease the current using the "<b>Inc</b>" or "<b>Dec</b>" buttons
(2nd and 3rd from the left) until <b>3300mAh</b> is displayed.
<li> Using the "<b>Enter, Start Stop</b>" button cycle to the next "<b>Vp</b>" field. Again use the "<b>Inc</b>" or
"<b>Dec</b>" buttons until <b>14.4Vp</b> is displayed.
</ul>
<p>Now hold down the "<b>Enter, Start Stop</b>" button for 2 seconds until "<b>Battery Check</b>" is displayed
and the screen looks similar to below, but with but with different numbers:
<p class="bluedisplay">
CHG 0.04 00002<br>
LI+3.26A 15.331V
</p>
<h2>Background knowledge about drills and batteries</h2>
<p>This information will not go out of date.
<h3>Drills - read this!</h3>
<p>Note that the drills have no battery-voltage monitoring at all, and the
monitoring circuit in the battery is bypassed when connected to the drill. Thus the drill can easily be used to over-discharge a
battery, so please <b>stop drilling when it gets slow</b> and put on a new
battery, unless it's an emergency. Drilling with an excessively-sagged
voltage <b>will</b> knacker the weakest cell-pair. If your battery
does get to this state, try to charge it up as soon as possible. Cells
must not be left at &lt;2V for any length of time as they rapidly
(hours/days?) degrade to useless in this state (and that pair will
need replacing - which means reassembling it back in Cambridge and welding in a new cell pair).</p>
<h3>Makita charging protocol issues</h3>
<p>Makita have put very 'conservative' software in the batteries (as bought) which
will stop them working on an as-bought, unmodified Makita charger, even when they are in
fact fine. The monitoring board in the batteries is powered from the 1st cell pair so
that pair tends to get discharged more than the others when left
sitting for the 11 months of not-expo. If an unbalanced (or
over-disharged, or too-hot) pack is inserted into the Makita charger
the charger and battery will do serial-comms negotiation, the charger
will refuse to charge the battery and <em>the battery will remember</em> this.
If you try this 3 times, the battery will mark itself bad and will
never charge again on a Makita charger. Only a replacement circuit
board in the battery can fix this (or new software if we knew how to nobble it).</p>
<p>Such batteries are normally still fine and charge on a sensible (RC
- Radio Control, because RC people are the main market for these
chargers) charger, possible after a "balance charge" to get the cells in
the pack in sync again. Expo has a couple of chargers capable of doing a "balance charge" (Yellow Pro-power
Prodigy II). Unfortunataly Makita don't build the 14.4V packs with
the necessary connections to the cells, so the circuit board in the battery has to be replaced to
make this work easily for expo. For 2018 this was done for 7 of our
packs, and 3 automatic balance chargers were built by Wookey.</p>
<h2>Instructions for charging</h3>
Further explanation: the charger uses a different pair of electrical connections from those used by the drill - that's why there are
not just two electrical connectors in the charger - to accommodate those extra connections.
0) <li>If a battery has green insulation tape on it it has been
modified by us and will not charge on a Makita standard charger. It
must be charged on the balance chargers (or RC chargers). Untaped
(standard) batteries will not charge on the balance chargers, so must
be charged on the Makita chargers (or RC charger). All batteries will
charge on the RC chargers, but not as fast as on the Makita
charger. Go to <a href="#RCcharge">RC charger</a>.</li>
<h3>Types of charger</h3>
<p>We have these types of charger; the non-mains chargers are all at top camp and can run all night using the car batteries:
<ul>
<li>Makita green/turquoise plastic as-bought mains-powered charger - only at base camp.
<li>ProPeak/Makita charger - a yellow ProPeak box with a blue LCD display connected to the green battery slide connector cut out from a Makita charger.
<li>Balance charger - This is the set of 3 (2 half-width) chargers made from old green Makita chargers.
They have a set of 4 LEDs. (The full-width one only has 1 LED in 2018).
<li>RC charger - a black all-purpose charger with blue LCD display.
</ul>
<h3>Makita batteries</h3>
<p>New for 2018 is varying battery capacity. We have 3Ah, 4Ah and 5Ah
packs. Bigger packs will take longer to charge from empty. The
capacity is on the cell label next to the yellow connector.</p>
@ -30,73 +136,18 @@ manual, but is very useful for indicating when a pack is known to be
charged, flat, or partly discharged. Slide the slider to show green
for full, red for flat, half and half for 'partly used'.</p>
<h3>Using Makita charger</h3>
<p>This is blue charger with 3 LEDs, and diagrammatic charging info on RH side. CHarges at up to 100W.</p>
<ol>
<li>Make sure charger is powered (flashing green LED).</li>
<li>Plug batt into Makita charger. It should start charging.</li>
<li>Look at the LEDs for status - the legend is printed on the charger.
If it flashes 'broken battery' (flashing red and gren LED) at you
after a few seconds, use the yellow (Pro-Peak Prodigy II) RC charger instead.</li>
<li>Eventually it should show '100%' (steady green LED) (in about 1
hour max). You are done.</li>
</ol>
<h3>Using Balance charger</h3>
<p>This is the set of 3 (2 half-width) chargers made from old Makita chargers. They have a set of 4 LEDs. (The full-width one only has 1 LED in 2018). Charges at 40W.</p>
<ol>
<li>Make sure charger is powered (flashing green LEDs).</li>
<li>Plug batt into charger. After a few seconds it should start charging.</li>
<li>Look at the LEDs for status - the legend is printed on the RH end charger. Steady red for bulk charging to 80%. Steady orange for last 20% charging. Steady green for finished. If it flashes red and beeps (repeated 5 times) something is wrong - see table. If you get an 'undervoltage' reading, use an RC charger instead to get the charging started.</li>
<li>Eventually it should show '100%' (steady green LEDs). (1hr 50 max possible charge time). You are done.</li>
</ol>
<h3 id="RCcharge">Using Accucell 6 RC charger</h3>
<p>This is black all-purpose charger with blue LCD display. CHarges at up to 50W</p>
<p>The Yellow Propeak chargers do the same job, and insturcuctions are
similar, but have no fan, no backlit display, and if pack is low
voltage will charge at C/10 (10% of normal) until voltage rises
sufficiently. Ensure that charge rate is set to 4000mA otherwise
charging will be very slow. Charges at up to 50W (5W in C/10 gnetle start).</p>
<ol>
<li>Make sure charger is powered (display lit up)</li>
<li>Connect charger to battery (either hardboard adaptor or empty
Makita base adaptor). Check polarity is correct with hardboard
adaptor.</li>
<li>Check display says 'Lion' or 'Lipo' and '14.4V' and '3A' and 'CHARGE'. Hold
down 'start/enter' button (on right). It will do a battery check.</li>
<li>If it shows '4' as the number of cells, then press 'start/enter'
again. Charging will start (fan comes on, display changes). If it
shows anything else like 'polarity reversed' or 'connection break'
then fix the connection to the battery. If it shows '3' as number of
cells it is probably knackered, but possibly can be coaxed back into
action. Find a battery expert - don't just use the charger anyway.</li>
<li>Once it beeps and says 'FULL' (flashing) then you are done (should
be less than 2 hours). Display shows number of mAh put in in
bottom right. Should be a number like 250 for each hole drilled
(between 50 and 2900 depending how discharged it was).</li>
</ol>
<h3>Makita batteries: taped and un-taped</h3>
<p>If a battery has green insulation tape on it it has been
modified by us and <b>will not charge</b> on an unmodidfied as-bought Makita charger.
<ul>
<li>Taped batteries must be charged on the balance pp (or RC chargers).
<li>Untaped (standard, as-bought) batteries will not charge on the balance chargers, so must
be charged on the Makita charger (or RC charger).
</ul>
All batteries will
charge on the RC chargers, but not as fast as on the as-bought (mains power only) Makita
charger. Go to <a href="#RCcharge">RC charger</a>.</li>
<h3>Can I tell if a battery is already charged?</h3>
@ -128,40 +179,85 @@ cells (2.5Ah, 20A) (Sponsored by uk18650.com).</p>
<p>The drill discharges at 26A current draw when drilling (~400W), so
that's 13A per cell in a 2P configuration.</p>
<h3>Makita charging protocol issues</h3>
<h3>Using Makita mains charger</h3>
<p>Makita have put very 'conservative' software in the batteries which
will stop them working on the Makita charger, even when they are in
fact fine. The monitoring board is powered off the 1st cell pair so
that one tends to get discharged more than the others when left
sitting for the 11 months of not-expo. If an unbalanced (or
over-disharged, or too-hot) pack is inserted into the makita charger
the charger and battery will do serial-coms negotiation, the charger
will refuse to charge the battery and the battery will remember this.
If you try this 3 times, the battery will mark itself bad and will
never charge again on a makita charger. Only a replacement monitoring
board can fix this (or new software if we knew how to nobble it).</p>
<p>This is the green/turquoise charger with 3 LEDs, and diagrammatic charging info on RH side. Charges at up to 100W.</p>
<ol>
<li>Make sure charger is powered (flashing green LED).</li>
<li>Slide battery into Makita charger. It should start charging.</li>
<li>Look at the LEDs for status - the legend is printed on the charger.
If it flashes 'broken battery' (flashing red and gren LED) at you
after a few seconds, use the yellow (Pro-Peak Prodigy II) charger instead.</li>
<li>Eventually it should show '100%' (steady green LED) (in about 1
hour max). You are done.</li>
</ol>
<h2>Everything below here may be out of date due to breakages</h2>
<h3>Using Balance charger</h3>
<p>This is the set of 3 (2 half-width) chargers made from old green/turquoise Makita chargers.
They have a set of 4 LEDs. (The full-width one only has 1 LED in 2018). Charges at 40W.</p>
<ol>
<li>Make sure charger is powered (flashing green LEDs).</li>
<li>Plug batt into charger. After a few seconds it should start charging.</li>
<li>Look at the LEDs for status - the legend is printed on the RH end charger. Steady red for bulk charging to 80%. Steady orange for last 20% charging. Steady green for finished. If it flashes red and beeps (repeated 5 times) something is wrong - see table. If you get an 'undervoltage' reading, use an RC charger instead to get the charging started.</li>
<li>Eventually it should show '100%' (steady green LEDs). (1hr 50 max possible charge time). You are done.</li>
</ol>
<h3 id="RCcharge">Accucell 6 RC charger</h3>
<p>This is black all-purpose charger with LCD display. Charges at up to 50W</p>
<p>The Yellow Propeak chargers do the same job, and instructions are
similar, but have no fan, no backlit display, and if pack is low
voltage will charge at C/10 (10% of normal) until voltage rises
sufficiently. <b>Ensure that charge rate is set to 4000mA</b> otherwise
charging will be un-usably slow. Charges at up to 50W (5W in C/10 gnetle start).</p>
<ol>
<li>Make sure charger is powered (display lit up)</li>
<li>Connect charger to battery (either hardboard adaptor or empty
Makita green/turquoise base adaptor). Check polarity is correct with hardboard
adaptor.</li>
<li>Check display says 'Lion' or 'Lipo' and '14.4V' and '3A' and 'CHARGE'. Hold
down "<b>Enter, Start Stop</b>" button
(the one at the <b>right-hand end</b>, the <b>4th one from the left</b>) . It will do a battery check.
<p class="bluedisplay">
LiIo CHARGE<br>
C=3300mAh 14.4Vp
</p></li>
<li>If it shows '<b>4</b>' as the number of cells, then press "<b>start/enter</b>"
again. Charging will start (fan comes on, display changes). If it
shows anything else like '<b>polarity reversed</b>' or '<b>connection break</b>'
then fix the connection to the battery. If it shows '<b>3</b>' as number of
cells it is probably knackered, but possibly can be coaxed back into
action. Find a battery expert - don't just use the charger anyway.</li>
<li>Once it beeps and says 'FULL' (flashing) then you are done (should
be less than 2 hours). Display shows number of mAh put in in
bottom right. Should be a number like 250 for each hole drilled
(between 50 and 2900 depending how discharged it was).</li>
</ol>
<hr />
<p>Such batteries are normally still fine and charge on a sensible (RC
- Radio Control, because RC people are the main market for these
chargers) charger, possible after a balance charge to get the cells in
the pack in sync again. Expo has a couple of these (Yellow Pro-power
Prodigy II). Unfortunataly Makita don't build the 14.4V packs with
balance connections to the cells, so the PCB has to be replaced to
make this work easily for expo. For 2018 this was done for 7 of our
packs, and 3 automatic balance chargers built.</p>
<p>Note that the drills have no battery-voltage monitoring at all, and the
monitoring circuit is bypassed when conected to the drill (the charger
uses a different connector-pair from the drill - that's why there are
3 slots). Thus the drill can easily be used to over-discharge a
battery, so please stop drilling when it gets slow and put on a new
batt, unless it's an emergency. Drilling with an excessively-sagged
voltage is a good way to knacker the weakest cell-pair. If your battery
does get to this state, try to charge it up as soon as possible. Cells
must not be left at &lt;2V for any length of time as they rapidly
(hours/days?) degrade to useless in this state (and that pair will
need replacing).</p>
</body>
</html>

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@ -14,8 +14,8 @@
<h3><a href="#nok">Next of Kin record</a></h3>
<h2 id="insurance">Insurance</h2>
<p>A requirement for expoers is that everyone get insurance in case of a rescue; this can be ruinously expensive
(running to millions of euros for multi-day rescues!) and so it is a good idea to get cover for this.
<p>A <b><font style="color:red">very strong suggestion</font></b> for expoers is that everyone gets insurance in case of a rescue; this can be ruinously expensive
(running to millions of euros for multi-day rescues!) and so you <b><font style="color:red">almost certainly need to get cover</font></b> for this.
<p>
In the past, <a href="https://www.snowcard.co.uk/adventure-travel-insurance">Snowcard</a>
has been the most popular option but feel free to find something else
@ -26,17 +26,17 @@ which covers original cave exploration in an area which has "organised local cav
Some have complete
exclusions for, say "potholing and climbing which normally requires guides or ropes", some are less explicit.
<h3>Local cave club membership</h3>
<p>If you are a member of the local cave club then some of your rescue expenses would be covered by that club.
<p>Here's the form to fill in for VfH&Ouml; membership:
<p>If you are a member of the local cave club then some of your rescue expenses would be covered by that club. <b>However</b> this may be a long-term committment for membership fee payment by CUCC Expo, it is not just a matter of individual choice.
<p>Once you have agreement to do this from the expo organisers, here is the form to fill in for VfH&Ouml; membership:
<a href="https://www.dropbox.com/s/2wk00itu8y2hx1l/Beitrittserkl%C3%A4rung.doc?dl=0">download</a>
Found here
from here
<a href="http://www.hoehle.at/wordpress/verein/unterstutzungsmitglied-spenden/">www.hoehle.at/wordpress/verein/unterstutzungsmitglied-spenden/</a>
and needs to be emailed to <em>hoehle (at) tele2.at </em> which goes to Robert TWC (The Wonder Caver).
<p>Cost of membership is &euro;30. There are details of how to do the bank transfer on their website
but generally Robert rocks up at the dinner and cash is handed over.
<p>Accident Insurance of the V&Ouml;H:
but generally Robert turns up at the dinner and cash is handed over. But do not let this informality mislead you: a renewal fee may be due every year thereafter and the expo may be responsible. This is why you need to understand the implications of using this mechanism to get insurance and get agreement from the expedition.
<em>
<p>
The Austrian Speleological Association (V&Ouml;H) offers insurance for leisure time activities to their
members in cooperation with the Allianz-Elementar insurance company. All members of caving clubs within
the V&Ouml;H organisation (except Caving Club Ebensee) are automatically assured to the following conditions.
@ -61,6 +61,8 @@ All statements without guarantee.
<p>
Contact person for questions (also responsible for forwarding claims to the insurance company):
Thomas Exel versicherung@hoehle.org Tel: 0699/ 18 21 91 17
</em>
<h2 id="medical">Medical Form</h2>
<p>At the start of expo we have asked people to fill in an anonymous form
for their health and medical details that will be kept secure in the tattie hut and only accessed
@ -70,7 +72,7 @@ If anybody has any suggestions for updates to this form or other things apart fr
details, history and requirements (and your insurance details) please suggest this by emailing the expo list (having first read the previous emails on this matter).
<h2 id="nok">Next of Kin record</h2>
<p>Please write the contact details of your next of kin above your name (you have your own page for "Money owed to...") in the Bier Book
<p>Please write the contact details of your next of kin above your name (you have your own page for "Money owed to...") in <a href="bierbook.html">the Bier Book</a>
at base camp as soon as you arrive.
<p>This is in addition to listing your next of kin in your medical record which you will have submitted in advance of expo.
This duplication is for safety and in case your <em>contactable</em> next of kin has changed address or phone number between you submitting your medical form and you arriving at expo.