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<title>81.1309: UBSS Description of Some Caves</title>
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<font size=-1>Proceedings of the University of Bristol Spelæological
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Society, 1981, <b>16</b>(1) pp 11-20</font>
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<h2>A Description of Some Caves in the Totes Gebirge, Austria</h2>
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<h4>by J.T. Griffiths</h4>
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<h3>Abstract</h3>
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<p><font size=-1>An account is given of the discoveries made by a joint
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University of Bristol Spelaeological Society and Cambridge University Caving
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Club expedition to the Totes Gebirge, Austria, in 1980. It includes
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descriptions of four caves: 1623/41, 87, 113 and 115, together with surveys
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of two of them: 1623/41 and 115. The caves consisted of a mixture of vadose
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passages and old phreatic systems and the potential for further discoveries
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is great.</font>
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<h3>Introduction</h3>
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<p>For a number of years members of Cambridge University Caving Club have
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been investigating an area (Fig. 3, map) of high alpine karst north of the
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Altausseer See at the western end of the Totes Gebirge (Leach,
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<a href="../../years/1976/report.htm">1977</a>, Various,
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<a href="../../years/1977/report.htm">1978</a>,
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<a href="../../years/1978/report.htm">1979</a>, and
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<a href="../../years/1979/report.htm">1980</a>). In August 1980, a joint
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U.B.S.S./C.U.C.C. party spent three weeks exploring caves on the north side
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of the glaciated valley that runs down to the Altausseer See between the
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Schwarzmoos Kogel and the Trisselberg. The expedition prospected a fairly
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limited area above the Weisse Wand either side of the footpath that runs from
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the Loser Hütte to the Wildensee at an altitude of about 1500 to 1600m.
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(Alpenvereinskarte nr. 15/1: Totes Gebirge, Westliches blatt, scale 1:25000).
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This area had not been visited by C.U.C.C. before, but one major cave
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(<a href="../../smkridge/41.htm">1623/41</a>, Stellerweghöhle) was
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known. A German group had previously worked there, though information on
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their finds was sparse.
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<p><img alt="Fig. 3 - 11k gif" width=438 height=548 src="81f3.png">
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<p>It should be noted that access to the area is considerably easier than is
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suggested by the map. Since the map was published, a toll road has been
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built from the road between Altaussee and Blaa-Alm to a point between the
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Loser Hütte and the Augst See at an altitude of 1600m. From here the
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caves were an easy forty minute walk. Groups wishing to undertake work in
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the area can negotiate free access to the toll road through the Austrian
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caving organisations. As much as the higher karst has been effectively
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designated a conservation area, camping is not permitted except by special
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arrangement.
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<h3>Descriptions</h3>
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<p>Descriptions are given of the major systems explored by the expedition. A
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number of other sites were investigated but weren't of sufficient
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significance to warrant mentioning. The numbering system used for these
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caves is the one adopted by the Austrian cavers. The pefix 1623 describes
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the general area they are in, ie. the western end of the Totes Gebirge,
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while the second number is unique to a particular cave. It is the latter
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number that is normally painted on the rock at the entrance to the cave and
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enables previously explored sites to be identified.
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<hr>
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<h3><a name="41">1623/41,</a> STELLERWEGHÖHLE (Fig. 4)</h3>
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<p>Lat. N 47° 40.2', long. E 13° 48.5'
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<p>The largest of the caves explored by the expedition, this site had
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previously been visited by some German cavers. Reports suggested that they
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had got down to -220m, and that the cave was still going.
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<p>The cave has two entrances, the lower of which is a classic draughting
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tube. This tube quickly led to a slope down into a chamber where a large snow
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bank signalled the entry of the passage from the upper entrance, daylight
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being visible at the top of the snow slope. On our first couple of trips into
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the cave it was not realised that the snow bank masked the main way on into
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what later became known as the German route. As a result, the passage was
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followed round to the left, across an ice-traverse, and then up dip along a
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fine arched passage. At the top of this, a turn to the right opened up onto
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one of the large ramps that were such a feature of the cave. Traversing
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across this, a short length of passage led to another ramp. Again the way on
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was gained by traversing across this and into a crawl at the far side which
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draughted strongly. Two more of these ramps were passed before a short climb
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down led to a traverse that required a handline. This traverse appeared to be
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in a large sloping chamber split by a rock barrier at its top end. Across the
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traverse on the other side of this rock barrier, a pitch dropped away: 5m
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sloping to a ledge, and then an 18m freehang to the floor. At the bottom were
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several possible ways on. Down the bedding was a gently draughting passage
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much obstructed by collapse. This was not explored for any great distance. A
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climb down from the bottom of the pitch led to a corner of the chamber that
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evidently took a lot of water in flood conditions. A squeeze over boulders
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here dropped into an immature vadose canyon which was followed for about 30m
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with no end in sight. The main way on though, necessitated a climb up onto a
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large boulder and then up a ramp opposite the pitch. This led to a steeply
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descending phreatic passage dropping down some rift climbs and then into a
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short crawl. Two more ramps followed, the first requiring a handline, before
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the final ramp was reached; there was no way on on the other side. A series
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of scrambles and free climbs down this brought one to the head of a mud slope
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that required laddering. Here the whole character of the cave changed, as the
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ramp met a large passage in a cross joint and the whole passage dipped
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sharply away to the right.
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<p><center><img alt="Fig. 4 - 15k gif" width=548 height=870
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src="81f4.png"></center>
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<p>A six metre descent of the mud slope and a short climb down ended at the
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head of a large circular shaft. A pitch of 14m dropped onto a large ledge in
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a tremendous shaft, the first shaft merely being a subsidiary shaft. From
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here a 55m pitch descended to a further ledge, the last 47m being absolutely
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free. A 26m pitch followed, ending on the floor of a large rift. Continuing
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along this rift, the passage took the form of a tall narrow canyon with a
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stream flowing along its bottom. The stream disappeared down a hole in the
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floor after about 40m and no attempt was made to follow it. Instead, a
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further 90m of progress was made along the canyon passage to the head of a
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9m pitch. Here the character of the cave changed again as a small stream
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descended a series of short pitches linked by sections of narrow rift
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passage and it may be that the canyon continued above the head of the 9m
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pitch. Pitches of 20, 9, 5, 6 and 6m followed in quick succession, before a
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short climb up onto a pile of boulders broke out into the impressive final
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rift. It could have been anything up to 100m high and averaged about 5m in
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width. Its descent was to mark the final stage of the expedition's
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exploration of the cave. The first pitch descended a loose gulley for 7m and
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then hung free for 24m. Here the rope ran out, necessitating a pendulum to a
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point in the rift where one could jam oneself between the walls. From here a
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9m pitch brought one to the floor. This point could probably be reached by
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rigging the first pitch to the floor. A short but bouldery climb down led to
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the head of a 16m pitch and from here descending the rift pitches of 5, 10,
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17 and 17m were rigged. At the bottom of this last pitch two short free
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climbs ended at the head of another pitch which was not descended due to
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lack of time. Total estimated depth of the cave 360m.
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<p>A party had the misfortune to be down this cave during a flash flood. At
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this stage, the last five pitches in the rift had not been descended, but it
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is clear that these must become extremely wet in flood. The series of short
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but constricted pitches and the main shaft were unpleasant but passable
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under these conditions.
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<p>During the course of the exploration of this main way down the cave, the
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German route was also investigated and didn't turn out quite as
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straightforward as had been expected. Past the snow bank in the entrance a
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large passage crossed over a couple of ramps, evidently those descending
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from the other series, before a roped traverse around a choked pot reputedly
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28m deep ended at a series of pitches. Pitches of 6m and 18m dropped to a
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floor in the rift. Off one end of this was a 20m pitch with a small outlet
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at its base. This was not investigated, as the other route appeared larger.
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Pitches of 3, 14 and 16m followed in quick succession. From the bottom of
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this last pitch an awkward sloping traverse down a canyon passage was
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explored to where a passage going off on the left seemed to afford easier
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progress. A muddy free climb of 10m descended to a low crawl which looked
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very much like a dried out sump. Beyond this a window opened out onto a
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climb down and then a traverse across a hole to the head of a pitch. This
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descended a slope for about 5m before hanging free for 12m. From the chamber
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into which this dropped, a rift passage led on. Pitches of 8, 12 and 8m were
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rigged in this rift, before exploration was halted at the head of an
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estimated 6m pitch. The rift had narrowed considerably at this stage and the
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series was proving far more difficult that the main way on. There were signs
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of previous exploration up to the dried out sump but not beyond. The limit
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of our exploration was estimated as being 140m below the start of the
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pitches, possibly therefore 180m below the entrance. Claims that the cave
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had previously been explored to -220m must be treated with some suspicion.
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<hr>
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<h3>1623/87</h3>
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<p>Lat. N 47° 40.14', long. E 13° 14.7'.
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<p>This was the first and most rapidly explored of the major finds of the
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expedition. Located whilst looking for the Stellerweghöhle, it lay just
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above the path about 100m past the climb up to the Stellerweghöhle at
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an altitude of about 1550m. The entrance was situated below a cliff at the
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top of a gulley. Waht attracted the first party to the cave was the cool
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draught filtering up through boulders in the gulley. From the entrance, a
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peaty slope gave out onto the head of a pitch. Traversing over this, the
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first pitch of 20m was rigged from a rock bridge, the other pitch entering
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half way down. The second pitch quickly followed, 16m and sloping, ending in
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a chamber. The third pitch of 17m led off from this chamber. Again it
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dropped into a chamber from which the fourth and final pitch descended. This
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was 38m to a choke, the total depth of the pot being 105m. The draught
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noticeable at the entrance was absent here and appeared to come from an
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inaccessible passage some way up the last pitch. About half way down this
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final pitch, a pendulum could be made onto a large block. However, there was
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no way past this.
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<hr>
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<h3><a name="113">1623/113</a> SONNENSTRAHLHÖHLE</h3>
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<p>Lat. N 47° 40.3', long. E 13° 49'
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<p>400 to 500m along the path from Stellerweghöhle a long climb up
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overgrown gulleys to an altitude of 1650m ended at a large depression. At
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the southeast end of this was a large hole, the entrance to 1623/113. The
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normal method of entry was to rig a 26m pitch on the far side of the
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entrance dropping onto a snow slope, though a series of climbs down the snow
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slope would bring one to the same point. From here a short scramble down in
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a large chamber led to a 3m climb up into a traverse along a steeply
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inclined bedding plane. Following the obvious route in this bedding plane,
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past a couple of alternative ways on, the ead of Point Five Gully was
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reached about 100m from the chamber. Here a steep descent of the bedding
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opened up into Barnsley Methodist Chapel. It is assumed that some of the
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alternative ways on in the bedding re-emerge here. This chamber marked the
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end of the inclined bedding plane and the cave continued in the form of a
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small tube in one wall. Twenty metres of crawling ended at the head of a 14m
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pitch in a rift. The passage at the bottom could be followed to a cross
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joint where the main way on was to the left and along a short traverse into
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an impressive chamber. This chamber, later named the Opera House, was at a
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depth of about 100m.
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<p>From here a 12.5m pitch dropped to a bouldery floor. At the far side of
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the chamber was a 7m pitch of boulders and the passage narrowed into a rift.
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This quickly led to a climb and an 11m pitch. Below a tube opened out onto
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the head of anohter pitch. The cave was rapidly going vertical. Descents of
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11m, 26m and then three short steps of 5m ended at an apparent sump after a
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very constricted rift. It was originally thought that the cave ended here at
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a depth of 210m. However, a climb up of 3m in the tight rift led to a body
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sized tube going off on the left. Ten metres of crawling and once more the
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cave headed down, this time in an enormous shaft. After 10m was a rebelay at
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a flake and then 30m to a saddle between two shafts. The one taking a small
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stream was descended in a series of short pitches, 12, 10, 16, 6 and 12m. At
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the bottom of these a ladder descent of the gulley in the floor of 5m ended
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at an impenetrable tube taking a small stream. Again the cave seemed to have
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come to an end, this time at -310m.
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<p>However, a narrow slot in the wall next to the ledges above the gulley
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broke out into a large chamber, the Crematorium, after a short length of
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passage. This chamber was formed along another steeply inclined bedding
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plane. At the far side of the chamber, the bedding closed down, though a
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draught was noticeable at this point appearing from a small hole down the
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bedding and disappearing into a choke in the roof. It should be noted that in
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the main body of the cave the draught was inwards. A hole in the floor of the
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passage before the chamber dropped down into a small stream, the one seen at
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the bottom of the gulley, and this descended a series of short free climbs to
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a depth of 330m. The way on was still open at this point, indeed this section
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of the cave was only explored towards the end of the expedition when floods
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trapped a party down the cave.
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<p>The present limit is still 600m above the Altausseer See and the cave must
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offer considerable potential for further exploration.
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<hr>
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<h3><a name="115">1623/115</a> SCHNELLZUGHÖHLE (Fig. 5)</h3>
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<p>Lat. N 47° 40.1', long. E 13° 48.6'
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<p>The entrance to this cave lay directly below Stellerweghöhle at an
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altitude of about 1520m. The main entrance was a large phreatic tube which
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appeared to have been explored before. This tube ended in a small
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rock-filled passage from which a strong draught emanated. Excavation enabled
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this to be passed to a small chamber. From here a short length of walking
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passage ended at the head of a pitch. Down this (8m) a steply descending
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passage ended at a choke after about 20m. An airy traverse across the head
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of the pitch led to a chamber and choked inlet with no draught. The way on
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was anything but obvious ! Half way across and about 1.5m above the traverse
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was a small tube in the right hand wall concealed by a lip of rock. The
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draught blew strongly through this. After 8m this dropped into a chamber. A
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traverse round the left hand wall and a squeeze past some boulders led to a
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pitch. This was a fine free hanging shaft of 18m. From the chamber at the
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bottom, two narrow vadose trenches descended. The one to the right was the
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larger and was followed in preference, though both appeared to rejoin a
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short distance on. After an initial steep descent, the canyon could be
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followed for 20m to where it broke out in the side of a large phreatic
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passage. To the right this was explred for a short distance, further
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progress necessitating crawling. The more obvious way though, was to the
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left. The passage appeared to be developed along the strike and after 25m
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its floor was incised by a very narrow and deep vadose trench. Past this
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junction, the phreatic passage continued in fine style to where a couple of
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large blocks appeared to be obstructing the way on. Here it was decided
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initially to descend the vadose trench in an attempt to regain the way on.
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Accordingly a 30m pitch was rigged off the boulders. At the bottom, however,
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the canyon choked.
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<p><center><img alt="Fig. 5 - 12k gif" width=438 height=625
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src="81f5.png"></center>
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<p>It was not until the surveying trip that it was realised that, if one came
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off the rope about 5m down this pitch and traversed along, it was possible
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to pass underneath the boulders into the continuation of the phreatic
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passage. On the far side of the boulders, the passage dipped steeply down,
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still with the trench in the floor, to a junction with a similar passage
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sloping left to right. Up to the left, this ended at the edge of an
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estimated 20m pitch, whilst to the right the slope gave way onto a large
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oval shaft. Stones thrown down this indicated a depth in the region of 25 to
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30m. A small stream could be heard trickling at the bottom. Lack of time
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prevented a return to explore this.
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<hr>
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<h3>Discussion</h3>
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<p>There is no impermeable covering to the limestone on the Schwarzmoos Kogel
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and hence there are no surface streams. Some small permanent streams are
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encountered in the caves, at least in summer. These are fed by meltwater
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from snow plugs that abound in the surface shafts in the limestone. When
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there is heavy rain, water disappears rapidly underground, as there is
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nothing on the surface to retain it; the underground streams can then
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quickly become impassable. It is believed that the water resurges from
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springs in the Altausseer See some 800m below.
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<p>Sites likely to repay further investigation are easily identifiable by the
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presence of a draught at the entrance. As a general rule if an entrance
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doesn't draught then it is not worth exploring. At times it seemed as if the
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entire hillside was draughting, and indeed draughts were far more prevalent
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in this area than in the areas explored by C.U.C.C. in previous years. This
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seems to indicate that the area is honeycombed with caves. At the 1500 to
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1600m level, entrances normally draught outwards, while above that they
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draught inwards.
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<p>Several of the caves were entered through phreatic tubes truncated by the
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glaciated valley and it is interesting to note that a further series of
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these phreatic tunnels was seen below and slightly to the east of the area
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prospected. These were in cliffs on the north side of the path that runs
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along the bottom of the glaciated valley between Oberwasser and Hochklapf
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sattel. They were at an altitude of about 1200 to 1300m and do not appear to
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have been explored.
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<p>All the major sites explored, with the possible exception of 1623/87,
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afford potential for further exploration and it is likely that they will all
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go to over 500m in depth. As has already been indicated, the area prospected
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was a fairly limited one, dictated largely by ease of access from the path.
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The hillside offers considerable scope for the discovery of further extensive
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systems.
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<h3>Equipment</h3>
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<p>In common with most other groups exploring deep pots in high karst
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regions, the expedition almost exclusively used ropes for rigging pitches.
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Ladders are too cumbersome for this type of work, though it is useful to
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include a number in an expedition's tackle list for short broken descents
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that are unsuitable for ropes. In most cases ropes were rigged from 8mm self
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drilling bolts, as there were few natural belays. The S.R.T. equipment and
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system used varied from individual to individual. Few rope walking systems
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were adopted, though, as the short but numerous pitches with frequent
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changeovers militate against such systems. Two points on ropes should be
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mentioned. First that the rock is very abrasive, far more so than in Great
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Britain, and hence a premium is placed on good rigging. Second, as in
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previous years, some problems were encountered with muddy ropes, in
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particular on the second pitch in the Stellerweghöhle. All ascending
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devices were prone to slipping on these ropes and whilst alarming this could
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be overcome by manually pressing the cam onto the rope. Once jammed they
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normally stay jammed. The only real solution to the problem is to include a
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toothbrush as part of one's S.R.T. equipment and clean the teeth of the cam
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before every ascent.
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<p>Waterproof overalls and wool or synthetic undergarments were the most
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practical and comfortable clothing. Temperatures in caves at this altitude
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are lower than those normally encountered in caves in Great Britain and
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wetsuits are not warm enough. They also restrict movement and become very
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uncomfortable on long trips, so very little use was made of them.
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<p>Carbides were used as the main form of lighting, though most members of
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the expedition carried some form of waterproof torch attached to the helmet
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as an emergency light. This arrangement is most useful on pitches in case the
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carbide lamp is extinguished by water.
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<h3>Survey</h3>
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<p>The caves were surveyed using a fibron tape and a hand held Suunto compass
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and clinometer. Distances were measured to the nearest centimetre and angles
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to half a degree. The local magnetic variation is about ½°W
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<p>The German route in Stellerweghöhle was not surveyed, partly because
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of time pressures and partly owing to the fact that it was not considered the
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main way on. The Austrians have surveyed it to the head of the pitches, but
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we were unable to obtain a copy of their survey. Similarly, in the final
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rift, apart from a bearing taken along the line of the rift, only pitch
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lengths were measured, again due to lack of time.
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<p>Oddments of the Schnellzughöhle have not been surveyed, as they did
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not represent the main way on, and the last section was only explored at a
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late stage and then only by one person, so surveying was impractical.
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<p>Sonnenstrahlhöhle and 1623/87 have been surveyed, but the surveys
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have not yet been drawn up. It is hoped to publish these eventually, possibly
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with a report of the planned 1981 expedition.
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<h3>Members of the Expedition</h3>
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<p>Ken Baker, John Bowers, Mike Burgess, Andy Connolly, Julian Griffiths,
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Simon Kellet, Julia Kostelnyk, Tim Lyons, Tony Malcolm, Ben van Millingen,
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Clive Owen, Steve Perry, Mike Perryman, Nick Thorne and Andy Waddington.
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<h4>References</h4>
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<dl>
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<dt><a href="../../years/1976/report.htm">LEACH, R. 1977</a><dd>Austria
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1976. <i>Cambridge Underground, The Journal of the Cambridge University
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Caving Club</i>, 1976-77, 43-53
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<dt><a href="../../years/1977/report.htm">VARIOUS 1978</a><dd>Austria
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1977. <i>Cambridge Underground, The Journal of the Cambridge University
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|
Caving Club</i>, 1977-78, 30-48
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<dt><a href="../../years/1978/report.htm">VARIOUS 1979</a><dd>Austria
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1978. <i>Cambridge Underground, The Journal of the Cambridge University
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Caving Club</i>, 1978-79, 22-36
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<dt><a href="../../years/1979/report.htm">VARIOUS 1980</a><dd>Expedition
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to Austria, summer 1979. <i>Cambridge Underground, The Journal of the
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Cambridge University Caving Club</i>, 1979-80, 12-19
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</dl>
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<hr>
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<a href="../../smkridge/index.htm">Area description</a><br>
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CUCC <b>cave descriptions</b>:
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<a href="../../smkridge/41.htm">41</a><br>
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