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<h1 class="firstHeading">Oversuit repair</h1>
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<h3 id="siteSub">From CUCCWiki</h3>
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<table id="toc" class="toc" summary="Contents"><tr><td><div id="toctitle"><h2>Contents</h2></div>
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<ul>
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<li class="toclevel-1"><a href="#Cordura_Suits"><span class="tocnumber">1</span> <span class="toctext">Cordura Suits</span></a>
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<ul>
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<li class="toclevel-2"><a href="#Patches"><span class="tocnumber">1.1</span> <span class="toctext">Patches</span></a></li>
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<li class="toclevel-2"><a href="#Gluing"><span class="tocnumber">1.2</span> <span class="toctext">Gluing</span></a></li>
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<li class="toclevel-2"><a href="#Sewing"><span class="tocnumber">1.3</span> <span class="toctext">Sewing</span></a></li>
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<a name="Cordura_Suits"></a><h2> <span class="mw-headline">Cordura Suits</span></h2>
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<p>I intend to fix my cordura suit and try to get it to last another expo. Could I have some advice / discussion on how this is best done, and where the necessary patching stuff can be bought in Cambridge? -<a href="/caving/wiki/User:Aaron" title="User:Aaron">Aaron</a> 22:20, 1 June 2008 (BST)
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</p><p>I did <b>a lot</b> of oversuit patching last year - I started off with a brand-new Warmbac suit, and Razordance very rapidly wore it out; the cordura wore thin and then would catch and tear. There are a couple of places where (strangely) the cordura has completely gone, leaving only the transparent waterproof membrane on the inside. Anyway, I digress... <a href="/caving/wiki/index.php?title=User:Duncan.collis&action=edit&redlink=1" class="new" title="User:Duncan.collis (not yet written)">Duncan Collis</a> 08:16, 2 June 2008 (BST)
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</p>
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<a name="Patches"></a><h3> <span class="mw-headline">Patches</span></h3>
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<p>Usually it's best to patch, even if you're just fixing a tear that could be sewn back together. Using a patch moves your stitching further from the damaged bit, so you'll probably be sewing through less worn material, and also spreads out the load on the repair. It's best to make patches oval, or at least to give them rounded corners so they have less of a tendency to lift. If you've got an old suit, the least worn bits of it can be used for patching material. If not, a fair bit of good material for patching can be harvested from your current suit by removing or shortening the inside pocket, or by slightly shortening the legs. Before sewing or gluing the patch on, wash the oversuit (this is easily done by wearing it in the river and wriggling around on the rocks) and dry it. <a href="/caving/wiki/index.php?title=User:Duncan.collis&action=edit&redlink=1" class="new" title="User:Duncan.collis (not yet written)">Duncan Collis</a> 08:16, 2 June 2008 (BST)
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</p>
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<a name="Gluing"></a><h3> <span class="mw-headline">Gluing</span></h3>
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<p>I tried using glue (bought in Bad Aussee, but I can't remember what sort it was - I think Olly B reccommended it), which on its own wasn't hugely successful. Unless the amount of glue was just right and the patch was stuck on after just the right amount of drying time, it didn't stick very well. <a href="/caving/wiki/index.php?title=User:Duncan.collis&action=edit&redlink=1" class="new" title="User:Duncan.collis (not yet written)">Duncan Collis</a> 08:16, 2 June 2008 (BST)
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</p>
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<a name="Sewing"></a><h3> <span class="mw-headline">Sewing</span></h3>
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<p>Frank brought along some vicious sailmaker's needles, a couple of sailors' pads and a reel of "Whiplash 2000" fishing braid. This was excellent for sewing on patches. To hold the patch in place, just gaffer it on and then stitch through the patch, suit and gaffer. I tried gluing first and then patching, but the glue made it harder to push the needle through and didn't really seem to be necessary when using Frank's indestructible fishing braid as thread. Smearing glue over the stitching seems to be worthwhile, although the best thing to use for that is probably Aquasure. <a href="/caving/wiki/index.php?title=User:Duncan.collis&action=edit&redlink=1" class="new" title="User:Duncan.collis (not yet written)">Duncan Collis</a> 08:16, 2 June 2008 (BST)
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</p>
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<ul><li>The palm and needles are sold in ships chandlers and any sailing shop, they usually come in kits and dont cost much. You only need a few needles.
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</li><li>The fising braid that i've had sucess with is sold in most large fising shops, basically get the strongest coated kevlar braid stuff. Unfatunatly the stuff i got comes in 500m reels (£20), but I'm sure there will be simlar stuff. Don't get monofibre because it dosent lie flat and the bits that stick up wear off quickly.
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</li><li>I'll bring my sewing kit to expo-training or the Yorks trip 7-8/6/08 if I can make it. Whoever needs it in Cambs can then borrow it. --<a href="/caving/wiki/index.php?title=User:Frank&action=edit&redlink=1" class="new" title="User:Frank (not yet written)">Frank</a> 19:26, 2 June 2008 (BST)
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</li><li>Incidentally when your pushing the needle through the fabric just as the widest part of the needle passes through, the tip of the needle can easily move accross and cut a really deep gash in your hand. You won't do it twice! and you probably wont be able to finish your oversuit for a few days either.--<a href="/caving/wiki/index.php?title=User:Frank&action=edit&redlink=1" class="new" title="User:Frank (not yet written)">Frank</a> 19:26, 2 June 2008 (BST)
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