expoweb/years/1982/JOURNAL.CUCC.1981-2.asc

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$c 115 - SCHNELLZUGHOHLE
Schnellzughohle was discovered in 1980, a
draughting, horizontal passage which ended in a choke
(with some survey cotton found). This was dug and a
complex abandoned system reached via a bolted climb.
The limit of exploration was a ramp which led both up
and down to undescended avens at -8Om. The size of
passage and strength of breeze made a return very
attractive.
The initial rigging in and pushing trips did not
follow the marathon-from-the-word-go pattern of the
Stellerweg heroes; usually two 2-man teams would
descend in relay each day. This avoided the withdrawal
symptoms and 'driver of the year' risks associated with
all night trips.
Rigging in to the 198O limit took one trip, the old
bolts were reused. An inlet above the ramp was also
explored; a series of 8 cascades led up 3Om to a choke.
At the aven a decision was made not to descend via the
main shaft but to a rift to one side. This was
primarily because a pile of loose boulders threatened
to mangle anyone dangling below. Also, a peer into the
depths showed that rebelaying would be necessary,
giving no advantage over the rift. The ladder dropped
via a series of muddy ledges (although there were no
severe cam-slipping problems) into a small active
streamway, just a tiny dribble when it wasn't raining.
Two fine, clean-washed pitches of 19m and 14m followed,
which were the scene of an exciting trip when it did
rain once. A tremendous whooshing noise announced the
arrival of quite a small flood pulse, which would have
made the pitches miserable rather than impassable; the
intrepid explorers were exiting too rapidly to actually
prove this. The second wet pitch was followed by a
damp 9m ladder climb to a 15m by 5m ledge. Here the
water disappeared into boulders, and then a 34m
freehang dropped into a chamber.
This was big, 3Om by 3Om with the roof beyond stinky
range. A food dump was established here, complete with
stove in case the pitches ever did become impassable.
A stream vanished into an uninviting slot in the floor.
Upstream, 6Om of big phreatic tube connected with
another aven. Downstream, a similar 5m diameter tube
was reached by traversing up through boulders from the
stream bed. It proved too difficult to follow the
stream at high level (this had also been found out by a
rather forlorn, green bat here found entombed).
However, 5Om from the chamber the tube branched off
into a phreatic maze. The draught was pursued to a
second stream, and a small cairn built. This was later
to be found by the Stellerweg team.
Meanwhile the streamway was pushed. It meandered on
and on for 800m, and required much shuffling and a
couple of awkward traverses. An hour of this led to a
more comfortable sized streamway (probably the
Stellerweg water). This proceeded with a 7m lined
climb to a sump.
This was easily bypassed via a 3m diameter phreatic
tube which emerged above the stream again. The
discovery was celebrated by a severe attack of the
Lurgi and an epic 11 hour exit, after which the narrow
streamway was christened Pete's Purgatory. A ladder
was rigged back to the stream, and the descent
continued with increasing enthusiasm. The canyon was
1.5-2m wide, too high to see the roof and getting
bigger all the time. Fifty metres and a 5m ladder
climb led to 5OOm of fine stream, which descended quite
rapidly by numerous sporting cascades.
A 5m pitch (the 'twelve foot climb') was reached and bolted when play was
stopped again by Lurgi. The victim escaped this time,
but his partner got lost near the entrance and had to
be rescued the following morning. 5OOm after the short
pitch came a 1Om wet pitch and then 3OOm more passage.
In two places here, classic vadose canyon gave way to
low, wet ramps with some grotting in boulders. A fine,
free-hanging pitch of 10m then dropped into a dark
pool. 15Om more stream, and a 15m pitch, broken by a
ledge, was followed by a 4m roped climb. 70m of
horizontal passage followed, with dismal pools leading
to hopes of a sump; these were dashed by another pitch,
a dry 15m free-hang. The streamway continued
inexorably to yet another 1Om pitch, but a realistic
decision / miserable witter was made and the derig
commenced to the sump by-pass. This was completed in a
mammoth 3-wave session, remarkable for feats of
gluttony and nicotine consumption, and an attempt to
wall in the consultant geologist and catering manager.
Trips into the lower streamway were becoming quite
serious, with hitch-free trips taking from 12-14 hours,
typically adding just a couple of bolts. Flooding could
be an extremely dangerous proposition: there is nowhere
warm and dry to hide. However, it needs a good survey
and the combined system is getting close enough to the
7OOm mark to put a return next year very much on the
cards.
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$e Simon Kellet
[end #115]
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$c MEXICO SPRING 1981
Background :
Readers of the caving press, especially Caving
International, will no doubt be aware that great things are
being discovered in Mexico, but are probably less aware of
the great variety of the areas being explored. The following
introduction is intended to place the Mexican discoveries in
context as a background to the spring project in which I
participated.
Cave exploration has been going on for many years, in
the main by US cavers, which led to the formation of an
informal group called the Association for Mexican Cave
Studies (AMCS) whose role now is to collect and publish
information on the caves of Mexico and to coordinate trips
to prevent duplication of effort. It is recommended that any
group planning to travel to Mexico should be in contact with
this group, based in Austin, Texas.
As cavers explored into the karst of Mexico, it was
natural that those regions nearest the main roads should be
the first to come under scrutiny, and the earliest AMCS
Bulletin "Caves of the Inter-American Highway" reflects
this. A series of limestone mountain ranges along the El
Abra reef trend :- the Sierra Madre Oriental were explored,
the most promising of which were the Sierra de Guatemala
south of Ciudad Victoria, the El Abra south of Ciudad Mante
and the Xilitla plateau. The latter area contained the deep
pits of Sotano de las Golondrinas and El Sotano - the
largest free drop pit in the world.
Further south, the spectacular karst plateau of Huautla
de Jimenez was discovered, leading to the exploration of the
deepest caves in the western hemisphere - Sotano del Rio
Iglesia and Sotano de San Agustin. Trouble with the native
population led to a self-imposed moratorium on exploration
in the area for ten years. South West of Mexico City, a
large area in Guerrero and Morelos contains such famous
caves as Grutas de Cacahuamilpa.
More recent explorations have penetrated further from
the main highways both in the north and the south, and
further exploration has continued in the other areas. To the
east of Mexico city, the Cuetzalan area has yielded long
river caves with huge passages, several streams converging
to give Mexico's second longest system. Much further south,
exploration in Chiapas, mainly by the Canadians (including
many expatriot Brits) has been rewarded by such finds as
Sumidero Yo Chib, at the time of its exploration probably
the most spectacularly and dangerously wet cave in the
world. In Huautla, the renewed exploration has found a
series of deep caves, all close to connecting into one huge
system. The first of the connections came when the very deep
Li Nita was connected by diving to Sotano de San Agustin to
yield a system 1220m deep. This area was also the scene of a
very serious rescue when a Polish caver broke his back deep
inside San Agustin. Further south still, expeditions have
penetrated into Guatemala and Belize.
In the north of the country, the northern end of the
Sierra Madre Oriental was penetrated by long dirt roads, and
when exploration of the area started, the rewards were
considerable, leading to the discovery of the caves which
were eventually to form La Sistema Purificacion, which is
still being explored by an AMCS group under the direction of
Peter Sprouse and Terri Treacy.
La Sistema Purificacion - History of exploration :
The cave is located in Ejido Conrado Castillo in the
mountains north west of Ciudad Victoria, and was known to
the local populace long before the arrival of American
cavers. The "Historic Section" of Cueva del Brinco shows
signs of a considerable history of investigation, so when
members of the AMCS first arrived in the area in the early
seventies, they were quickly directed to the entrance and
the potential of the area was realised. On subsequent
visits, they were shown a large, inaccessible cave entrance
in a canyon headwall about three miles away and 850m lower.
When the entrance was reached, the huge passages of Cueva de
Infiernillo were seen for the first time and the dream of a
connection was established.
At the start of the spring trip of 1978, Cueva del
Brinco had been surveyed to 6.5km long and 257m deep, while
Infiernillo was 4.6km long. A third strongly draughting
cave, Sumidero de Oyamel, had also been found the previous
autumn. During the spring project, a huge trunk passage with
a stream, The World Beyond, was found in Brinco which was
heading away from Infiernillo, but after a mile or so, it
abruptly turned about and dropped steeply. After the spring
trip, Brinco was 9.2 km long and 382m deep, already a
significant cave. Oyamel was just over 1 km and 125m deep.
Exploration fever set in, with a return to Infiernillo
in July (nominally the wet season) in which the cave was
surveyed to 9 km, and passages were explored which had to be
very close to Brinco. In again from the Brinco end, and
flagging tape was found which could only have been placed by
the Infiernillo crew - on July 13th, the connection was
surveyed and Sistema Purificacion was born: 20.086 km long
and 884m deep, the longest and deepest cave in Mexico.
A trip in December saw the systems first accident, when
a caver fell and broke his leg in the recently discovered
Valhalla section of the cave, but a remarkably smooth rescue
organised from the USA saw the injured man safe after three
days in the cave. The spring project 1979 saw more surveying
in the phreatic mazes of the "Confusion Tubes" area in
Infiernillo and the discovery of Moria, an important lead
toward a postulated "Great Western System". It also saw a 20
hour through trip with Claude Chabert and Paul Courbon, who
then dug out a new top entrance to the Valhalla region - the
Entrada de los Franceses. At the end of the spring, the cave
was almost 28 km long.
Useful information was gathered on the system in flood
when 19cm of rain fell in a storm in December, when the
sumps at the bottom of the system were seen to be 64m above
their dry season level. In Spring 1980, attention was
returned to Oyamel, which was surveyed to 2.5 km and then
connected in to the upstream section of The World Beyond. At
the end of 1980, the system stood at 38km long and 895m deep
- by far the longest, but no longer the deepest in Mexico.
[end AERW2]
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$c SPRING PROJECT 1981
From Ciudad Victoria we headed towards the mountains. Rounding a steep bend, a
vista opened up to the right, of the Canyon Infiernillo , in the steep
headwall of which is the bottom entrance to
La Sistema Purifacacion. As darkness fell, we arrived at Conrado Castillo, which
was to be our base for the next seven weeks.
The first trip into the Sistema was via the Entrada de los Franceses,
an entrance into the highest part of the system, Valhalla, a complex fossil
phreatic maze in somewhat crumbly rock. The first part of the cave is
generally dry, and we caved in jeans and shirt-sleeves down a series of low
passages and then many climbs, always leading down over solutionally
etched rock in weird forms. One or two parts of this area are quite
narrow, and as we were carrying quite a bit of gear, our progress was not
too fast in the warm cave ( generally about 15 degrees in the upper part of
the system ). A change of character to firmer, darker limestone somewhat
reminiscent of O.F.D. was closely followed by the sound of running water,
and we soon emerged at roof level above a five metre climb into Valkyrie River
a recently discovered stream passage, whose source was unknown and
destination only conjectured.
We unpacked gear and got changed into wetsuits in the roof passage and then
climbed down into the stream. Upstream through beautiful blue dolly tubs
and then a series of shallow lakes led to a wide sump pool held back by
extensive gravel banks. Here Randy Rumer donned a mask and tried freediving
with an electric lamp. The roof levelled off at about -2m in very clear
water, but Randy needed a large rock in his wetsuit to go any further.
A small bell about 2m in had no air and as the sump could be seen to go
many metres in crystal clear visibility, he retreated. Don Coons dived a couple
of times finding nothing new, but the visibility started to deteriorate,
so we decided to head downstream to survey ingoing leads.
Downstream from our entry point, deep canals in blue water with calcite encrustations
made pleasant, if cool, going to a sump with a bypass. Shining lights underwater
identified a probable freedive which would cut out the bypass, but it wasn't
attempted. Instead, we split into two parties to survey. Peter and Terry went
with Don Coons and Sheri Ensler to follow the main way, whilst Randy and
myself with Del Holman and Jerry Atkinson set off into side leads. These
unfortunately degenerated into very muddy grovels where surveying was very
grotty, leading to the name 'Mud Point Mud Mud' and we were not too
disappointed when all ways closed down or sumped. We retreated to the surface,
emerging at 3.15a.m. after thirteen hours underground, whilst the other group
had to give up in good,blowing cave, and surfaced a couple of hours later.
Activity was now directed to a planned week long trip to camp 1 in Infernillo
to explore leads in the lower part of the system. Since the entrance is halfway
up a large cliff at the head of a canyon, about an hour and a half from the
nearest road; and major leads are up to 3 miles inside the cave, camping is
almost obligatory. A long trek down into the canyon led to the base of the cliff.
Peter ascended to the cave and riged a pitch down to the arroyo to ascend
and haul. It was during the hauling that Peter's pack broke loose and crashed
down the tyrolean into a boulder: wiping out one set of surveying gear and
all our water purifier. Once we were all assembled in the 20m high entrance,
it was getting quite late, but it was only a half hour trek in huge passage
to camp 1 in a side passage above a lage static sump.
The first day from camp 1 established a general pattern as we split into
three surveying groups working in different areas.The American style of exploring
new caves is the only one possible in an area with so much open and going
-so we started surveying into virgin passage, eventually extending this
area down to the first running water found, at Gnome Springs.
The second day out, we went into Moria, the westernmost area of the lower
cave - near base level and with a powerfully draughting choke heading
towards the postulated "Great Western System". Whilst Jerry placed a
substantial charge on a selected boulder, I frantically fetched mud
to pack it, and we soon had an impressive bomb ready to go. The
satisfying bang put both our lights out, but once relit, we wasted little
time in inspecting the damage - the fumes having already cleared in the
draught. Several boulders no longer existed, and I was soon demonstrating
the British liking for digging by trundling large amounts of decimated rock
out of the choke, but after a couple of hours it became apparent that
no further progress could be made without a proddling bar, so we retreated
- digging could be quite frustrating at the rate of one bang per year.
On the next day, a 'Glub Glub' trip was planned into Isopod river in which
a small stream had developed into a canal downstream. This meant heading
along the route towards the top of the system, climbing up into Confusion
Tubes- where junctions abound in all directions. Emerging through Lakeland into
the South Trunk, we trogged along for half an hour in a huge mega-trunk to
a bouldery area which got quite thrutchy. We were distracted in the Breakdown
Maze by a possible way on through the boulders which Peter thought might
crossover into downstream Isopod river, and when Duwain and I opened up
a route down to a deep blue canal we decided to survey it. This soon proved
abortive in one direction due to low airspace, and the other way eventually
led back to known passage, so we tried a dry route which turned out to be
an alternative route through the Breakdown Maze back towards Infiernillo.
On day four, Jerry and I planned to return to Gnome Springs with Don and
Sheri, but when we got to Misty Borehole, we decided to look briefly at
an unpushed climb at the end of this tube. Whilst Sheri and I formed an
opinion that the climb was quite impossible, Don tried out a few moves and suddenly
shot up the wall, into a hole and out at roof level, much to our surprise.
He then traversed over the top and into going passage and vanished for
some time, only to return with news of a major borehole. We hurriedly
rigged a handline and ascended to start surveying. The rift above soon
turned into a tube and then developed into something unusual for the
cave - a classic keyhole passage some 2-5m deep below a 2m tube. There
were lots of side leads, but the main way carried all the air, and we
emerged into a sizeable tube. Unfortunately this didn't continue too
far before a large flowstone blockage: but a side passage led to an
area with cave ice pools and bacon rind stal. From where a beautiful
flat flowstone floored tube ascended steeply to a series of climbs.
Here we met a small stream depositing calcite which we thought could well feed
Gnome Springs, but the water sank into a tiny vertical tube and our route was
up a small waterfall into another tube almost blocked by flowstone. The water
came from a small passage but the way continued to a deep rift in the floor
which we traversed past a pom-pom stalactite to a climb down into an increasingly
complex and muddy area. Here we ran out of time and after a short run ahead
we headed back to camp 1,
pausing only to name the area Ithilien. Back at camp 1 we found that the
"40km" party had taken place on the assumption that we had bagged enough booty
-but we had been so long that everyone had crashed out.
Owing to lack of motivation and illness, day 5 was declared the last day of the
camp, so we decided to get as far as possible into the cave in two groups-
one finally getting into Isopod river and one to take photographs in the Netherhall
- a very large chamber about two and a half miles into the system. Beyond the
Breakdown Maze, the South Trunk continued very large again to turn off to the
lower Isopod river where the wet team were getting changed. We left them and
headed into the Monkey Walk - an awkward stretch of passage with low roof and
bouldery floor, leading evenually to the Isopod river, a large passage with
a small strem meandering between gravel banks, and containing colonies of
troglobytic isopods like little piles of white rice in the stream, which gave
the passage its name. By traversing the few pools which blocked the passage,
we were able to reach the site of camp 2 on a shingle bank with dry gear and from
here we started to climb up immediately to reach the Netherhall, which contains
a 150m high boulder pile: like climbing Great Gable at night. After half an
hour of upward slogging on scree, we reached the summit and spread out to get
an idea of scale before spending the next five hours taking photographs
.blank
Brinco Camp 3
The next major project was camp 3 - set up for the first time in the upper cave,
about 350m below the Cueva del Brinco entrance and 3km inside the cave. As
the entrance series of the upper cave is much smaller than Infiernillo, but also
wet, we had to arrange for gear packs to split into smaller units and be
completely waterproof. As this was a new camp, it was thought best to have a
supply run to set the camp up, followed by a lighter trip to move in any gear
which didn't make it first time.
Despite its proximity to the fieldhouse, this was the first time I had been into
Brinco, but with the heavy gear we were all moving slowly, so I
had a reasonable chance to look around.
The first part ( the Historic Section ) is roomy and dry with many dead formations
We descended a fair way, mostly in steep passage, but with a few climbs, until
we reached the Dressing Room. This is where the fun starts with a wet thrutch
"The Chute" followed by a narrow fissure 'The Crack of Doom'. This was quite
time consuming with large packs, but once through, progress in the Lunar Way
was faster, through strenous, until another delay at Mud Ball Crawl. Beyond, the
passage opened out into the Rio Verde, a steeply descending streamway with steep
gours and deep green pools, leading pleasantly to Flowstone Falls, a 20m freeclimb
which we however rigged with a line to facilitate descent with heavy packs. The
falls drop straight into a swimming canal and further cascade before a series
of squezes obstructs the way. Another steep climb led to the beginning of the
canal- a low airspace wade in muddy water. This ended in a climb up and over
a barrier and through a lake to the Speedway bypass- a somewhat awkward passage
breaking out dramatically at the World Beyond.
The World Beyond is a major trunk passage carrying the largest stream in the
system directly away from the resurgence for almost two miles. The going varies
from deep swims of up to 100m to a meandering steam among gravel banks, to
climbs over large scale collapse. This ends abruptly where the stream, augmented
by a major inlet (possibly Valkyrie river), cuts down to the right to form the
Angel's Staircase, eventually sumping at -600m. The main way on to Infiernillo
and camp 3 is to the left starting at a series of steep climbs over rotting flowstone
with a major change of direction at a pitch. Shortly before this was the site of
camp 3 - a roomy chamber with a coarse gravel floor and a couple of deep pools.
Here we dumped the gear and had a rest before setting out for the surface.
It was 3 days before we set off for the real camp. The first 3 days underground
turned out to be relatively unproductive. On day 3 we reached a complex junction
area from where our route turned out to be a dead end. Returning to the junction
we followed footprints into a large maze area - Medus's Maze which descended
down the dip of a major joint to an area with attractive formations.
On day 4 we all worked around the maze, extending the area downwards until
stopped by a large phreatic lift going steeply up - The Wall, which proved rather
loose at the top. Below this however, we found yet another downward lead into
smaller passages but with a strong draught. This area, Yawndwanaland,
continually stepped north, then down dip, then south along the strike, then down
dip and so on, moving slowly west on balance, until at the end of the day, we
reached a steep climb down. Louise went to investigate, and found that it
dropped into a major south-north passage which must be by now both deeper
and further west than the main route to Infiernillo.
As this passage seemed to offer the major breakthrough needed to extend the
system at depth under the ridge to the south, where sinks lie up to 1600m
above the Infiernillo sumps, both parties were fielded into it the next day.
We elected to survey north while the others went south. Our lead, Death Coral
Rift, headed dead straight in a high rift floored with death coral - a sort of
muddy calcite encrustation that seems to grow in passage annually flooded
with turbid saturated water which drains slowly. We shot leg after leg, until
we came to a shattered chamber. Climbs led to more bouldery passage, still
heading north until we came to a conclusive, but draughting choke, apparently
close to the Netherhall. From here we headed back the 800m we had surveyed
to see how the others had got on. They had surveyed over 1200m in generally
large draughting passage heading south all the way. This passage was now
nearly as far south as the sothernmost part of the system. We returned to camp
elated after fourteen hours, and discussed stretching food supplies to allow
one survey team to carry on south. When Peter, Terri and Louise set off next
"morning", they quickly returned, having found that the system was in flood.
This meant that the World Beyond would be difficult, but more important ,the
canal might be sumped.Roy, Patty and I set off for the the surface immediately
while the others packed up their camp gear. As might be expected the return
was made somewhat hairy by the flood conditions. We were met by Jim Pisarowicz
just inside the entrance as we emerged after 10 hours caving. We crashed out
quickly in case we had to take a food stash in for the others as we were sure
the canal would soon sump behind us: but in fact the others came out about
three hours after us, having dumped some gear at the World Beyond. We learned
from Jim that almost four inches of rain had fallen in the previous three days
as the start of the wet season was approaching.
Whilst camp 3 was busily succeeding, Jim had not been idle, having spent the time
on surface prospecting on the ridge to the south. Of several holes he had
investigated, two looked particularly promising, situated above the area that the
new camp 3 passage was heading for, and we soon set off to investigate these.
The smaller pot, Pozo del Peso, choked at -36m, the deeper, Sotano de la Rama,
reached a choke at -140m. After this, Jim and Louise left, leaving just Peter
Terri and myself to spend the final week in sundry pursuits - retrieving the gear
from the World Beyond, surveying in some of the smaller local caves and surface
surveying before returning to the US.
The Spring Project was pretty successful, extending the system from 38km to
45.5km, closely challenging Easegill in the world length stakes. A lot of
extremely high quality caving was done and I would like to express my most
sincere thanks to Peter
and the Proyecto Espeleologico Purificacion for allowing me to join them in
1981. I hope to be able to return to assist in future years in this magnificent
system.
.blank
$e Andrew Waddington
[end AERW3]
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$c CDG RECONNAISSANCE EXPEDITION TO GREECE
$C INTRODUCTION
Greece as a venue for a summer expedition was first
discussed on Cambridge University Caving Club's return
from Austria in 1980. Julian Griffiths fancied the
idea of sea, sun and sand, and finding Rob Shackleton
not averse to the idea, the nucleus of an expedition
was formed. As it turned out, this nucleus represented
the full expedition complement; so the beginning of
July 1981 saw the expedition Cortina heading south
packed full of diving gear.
The only firm thing we had in our minds before we went
out was that we wanted to go diving rather than normal
caving. Beyond that we had no clear idea of what to
expect. Neither of us had been diving abroad before
(except Ireland) and there is very little written in
English about caves in Greece, except for innumerable
articles on the Pindos Mountains. As we did not intend
to visit the Pindos, this was not much help. We decided
that it would be best to try and take in as many areas
as possible, stopping only when there was something of
particular interest or potential. That way, if we
wished to return, we would have first hand knowledge of
a number of areas, making it easier to make a choice of
an area to concentrate on. In the event this worked
very well. We saw a lot of Greece in the two weeks we
were there, though we spent at least half of that time
in the Mani. The Greek cavers we teamed up with there
were very helpful in this respect. One had done a
considerable amount of cave diving, not only in Greece
but also in Italy and Yugoslavia, and was able to guide
us towards promising diving sites.
Some of the sites are only accessible by dirt tracks
and hence a vehicle with some off-road capacity is
essential. We were quite happy to abandon the Cortina
in Athens and we spent most of the time travelling
around in a Volkswagen van which was more suited for
these purposes.
We did not take a compressor with us, something which
with hindsight we should have done. Diving shops with
compressors are few and far between, Athens and Patras
being the only ones we heard of. This leaves one trying
to beg the use of a privately owned compressor;
difficult unless one has contacts. One can rule out
hiring a compressor as the hire rates make this
prohibitively expensive - we were quoted twenty dollars
per day.
What we saw of the Greek caves was sufficient to
encourage us to return. In diving terms there is little
in this country to match the old, submerged phreatic
systems of the Mani and the potential of the rising at
Kephalari is phenomenal.
$C SUMMARY OF EXPLORATIONS
Our visit to Greece in July 1981 was largely
speculative in that we had few specific sites to
examine. The results described below outline the
observations we made in the areas we visited and
attempt to give some idea of the potential for cave
diving that exists in Greece. The country is composed
almost entirely of limestone and so we could obviously
visit only a small proportion of the areas, but what we
did see was sufficient to convince us that many
exciting discoveries are awaiting explorers and cave
divers will play a crucial role in future explorations.
The Greek Speleological Society is the focus of caving
activity and many cave explorations have been recorded
in their archives. Anyone wishing to cave in Greece is
strongly advised to contact the GSS before going, as
this may save a great deal of time which would
otherwise be wasted, particularly with regard to cave
location.
The explorations made during our visit are divided
quite neatly into areas north and south of Athens,
which was the base for operations. The area to the
south of Athens is divided from the rest of the
mainland by the Gulf of Corinth and is known as the
Peloponnesos. To the north of Athens lies the bulk of
the mainland, but our activities centred mainly on the
regions within striking distance of the capital.
$C A) NORTH OF ATHENS
1. Northern Greece
On our journey down to Greece we decided to travel
through the mountainous regions of the north rather
than via the coast road. Accordingly we drove south
from Bitola in Yugoslavia through Kozani in northern
Greece to join the coast road at Lansa and on our way
made occasional stops to look around. The area is
composed of thinly bedded limestone cut occasionally by
dry gorges which presumably carry flood water. No
surface drainage was apparent and the area may well
hold caves although the rock is not of a very
consistent quality. The area lacks the altitude and
depth of limestone of the Pindos range which lies to
the west, and these factors combined with the poor
quality of the rock make it doubtful whether the same
potential for fine cave systems exists in the Kozani
area. Other regions of Greece offer more obvious
rewards so it may be some years before the area is
adequately assessed.
2. Athens area
a. Voulegmene (Mount Hymetus)
Along the coast to the south east of Athens beyond the
suburb of Glyphada is the large resurgence in the sea
at Voulegmene. The coast road lies on the cliff top at
this point and inland of the road is a large collapse
floored by a lake of fresh water which is used as a
bathing area. The water which supplies this lake comes
from the Mount Hymetus area where several potholes have
been explored by the GSS. One of these potholes reaches
sea level at a sump and the presence of brackish water
indicates a connection with the Voulegmene Lake several
kilometres distant. It is evident that a large phreas
awaits discovery behind the lake.
Both the rising in the sea and the lake have been
dived. The tranquil lake surface conceals a deep rift
which has been dived, reputedly to -60m, to reveal a
complex of phreatic tunnels. In the sea a similar
complex of passages has been explored leading inland.
b. North West of Athens
The city of Athens is surrounded by three groups of
mountains. Mount Hymetus lies to the south east, Mount
Pendelikon to the north east and Mount P to the
north. The latter is composed of promising looking
limestone and we spent a day investigating it more
closely. A feature of the area is the deeply cut gorges
which presumably carry flood or melt water but remain
dry during normal weather. We explored one such gorge
near Fili, following upstream until we were stopped by
a 3m climb above a deep plunge pool infested by frogs.
At this point the walls of the gorge were over 1OOm
high, with the dry river bed at the bottom some 5m
wide, making it an impressive spectacle, Unfortunately
all we found in the way of caves was two small rock
shelters which looked promising from the road but led
nowhere. Several other holes can be seen from the road
but we did not have time to look at them as they were
quite a long way away over hostile looking ground.
These open caves have presumably been investigated by
the GSS but what we did establish was that the area has
no sizeable springs which makes it of litle interest to
the cave diver. It would seem that the percolation
drainage resurges in the sea, probably in the region of
Salamis.
3. Kallidromon Mountains.
This area is located south of Lamia on the north
coast of the Attica peninsula. We travelled through the
area and it is composed of good, solid limestone unlike
the central northern areas of the Greek mainland.
Just south of Lamia near the historic site of
Thermopylai, a deeply cut rock gorge was followed back
into the mountains. This contained a fast flowing
stream of considerable proportions considering that
there had been no rain for some months and all the
other stream beds in the area were dry. Due to lack of
sufficient time a conclusion was not reached, but the
cold temperature of the water indicates that it must
come from a cave or spring which may have potential for
exploration. This possibility should be further
investigated.
4. Mount Parnassos.
There are a number of risings around Delphi which is
to the south of Mount Parnassos but these were not
visited. We did visit a large spring at Lebadeia which
forms the source of drinking water for the town. The
rising lies beneath a cafe and has been gated which
makes exploration impossible. It is noteworthy however
that the rising carries a large flow and this augurs
well for the potential of the area. An examination of
the other springs in the area with a view to diving
could yield interesting results. The geomorphology of
this area has been discussed by previous investigators.
(Sweeting, M.)
5. Island of Evia.
Although an island, Evia has high mountain ranges
sloping steeply to the sea, and like most of the rest
of Greece appears to be solid limestone. According to
the Greek cavers the best area is to the south where
large fresh water springs have been discovered in the
sea. We wanted to visit an area to the south east of
Evia, along the coast of which Giorgos told us that he
had found some promising looking springs. Unfortunately
the route to the area involves 3Okm of rough tracks
which would have proved difficult for our vehicles. It
is possible to get a boat from the town of Karistos but
the "service" is infrequent, especially the return, and
so we decided not to risk getting stranded. A
Land-Rover could reach the area but a boat may be
necessary even then for the transportation of diving
equipment along the coast to the actual sites.
To the north of Kimi, a seaside resort on the east
coast of Evia, is a large range of mountains. We drove
across these on dirt roads to reach a small village on
the coast where we spent two days. Sea caves are quite
common but we only found one fresh water spring. This
was explored by free diving but appeared to be
hopelessly choked.
The highlight of our stay on Evia was without doubt a
visit to Agia Trias. This cave lies above the town of
Karistos at the southern tip of the island. A stream
emerges from a capped rising, but a small cave nearby
yields a 1Om climb down into the water a short distance
inside. Within 5Om of the entrance are a church and a
taverna which, as JTG pointed out, gives the diver a
choice of his method of calming his pre-dive nerves!
The cave is almost British in that for all its all too
short 5OOm length it comprises a lively and sporting
streamway. The difference is that the water is warm. At
the end of the open stream passage, which is developed
entirely along the strike, is a large, rather silty
sump pool. JTG kitted up whilst RJS, Giorgos and a
German girl Andrea, who had acompanied us on the trip
took photographs of him. The sump proved to be only 3Om
long with a maximum depth of 3m and although low in
places it is easy with 1274 litres of air. JTG surfaced
in a large continuation of the streamway, and after
dekitting explored 15Om of passage to a sizeable
chamber where the stream cascaded in from an opening
1Om up. The explorer climbed to within 2m of the top
but the last bit was tricky and so, having noted that
the passage at the top appeared to be wide open, a
return was made. The journey out was punctuated by
stops for photographs with RJS being persuaded to stand
beneath waterfalls, and in pools neck deep for the
benefit of the cameras.
The lack of surface drainage in the mountains above
Karistos suggests that a sizeable percolation network
may lie beyond the climb. During the trip into the cave
however, twigs were found above one of the plunge
pools. Since they were found above normal water level
it is probable that winter flood water brought them
down. This find, coupled with coarse sand not normally
found in percolation caves suggests that the system may
be fed by flood sink holes which may provide upper
entrances.
$C B). SOUTH OF ATHENS
During our stay in Greece we spent a week in the areas
to the south of Athens, most of this time being devoted
to the caves of the Mani peninsula in the extreme
south. The Peloponnesos holds great caving potential
throughout its area and on our journey back from the
south we visited the region around Tripolis where an
extensive drainage system has been shown to exist.
1. Mani Peninsula.
This area is located immediately to the south east of
the town of Kalamata in the southern Peloponnesos, and
amongst its fine caves is the famous show cave of
Pyrgos Dyros. The caves in this area are all very old
phreatic tunnels which collect water by percolation and
resurge in the sea. It is evident that they were
formed before the last ice age, and during the ice age
when the level of the Mediterranean was some 100m lower
the it is today, the passages were abandoned allowing
the formation of spectacular calcite deposits. The
post glacial rise in the sea level has re-flooded many
of the tunnels and the abundance of calcite formations
is a feature of the submerged routes.
The best method for finding cave entrances in this area
is to search the coastline for fresh water springs
which are easily noticeable as patches of cold water in
the warm sea. Also the area in which the fresh water
mixes with the salt water is characterised by an opaque
quality caused by the differing refractive indices of
the two mixing fluids. Occasionally these springs have
associated dry caves in the cliffs above, which allow
access to the phreatic tunnels inside. Searching the
mountains set back from the coast for potholes would
seem to be a futile exercise since there is no surface
drainage and any potholes which might exist would
almost always be choked. The region is also very
hostile to the explorer being very hot and thickly clad
in low thorny bushes which make walking a slow and
painful process.
At Pyrgos Dyros the rise in the sea has flooded the
cave to within a few feet of the roof and the tourists
are guided round in punts which are propelled by
pushing on the roof! We visited the show cave, which
is a must for anyone spending any time in the area ,
and were amazed at the profusion of the stalactites.
It certainly gave us the idea of the potential of the
area and fired our enthusiasm for exploration.
Unfortunately diving is permitted only by special
arrangement since archeological remains have been found
in the cave. Another site along the coast has been
dived by Greek and Italian divers in a large passage to
a complex boulder choke which corresponds with a
similar feature in a cave inland. It is very likely
that there will be other caves to be found in the area
which will follow a similar pattern of development,
although it is unlikely that the level of the sea will
give a repeat of the amazing situation at Dyros.
During our visit we explored two cave systems both of
which resurge in the sea.
(a). Cave of Selinitsa.
This is an extensive cave system situated on the west
coast of the peninsula just south of the small seaside
town of Selinitsa. There are in fact three caves in
close proximity to each other. Firstly, a large fresh
water spring in the sea called the Spring of Dracos
(spring of the dragon), secondly, a small cave with
several entrances the most accessible of which is close
to sea level, and lastly the main entrance to the cave
of Selinitsa which lies some 10m above sea level
overlooking a nudist bathing area which makes for very
interesting scenery whilst lurking out of site in the
entrance.
The Spring of Dracos was reached by a swim along the
coastline in full kit which was quite a bizarre
experience. The rising is noticeable by the quantities
of cold water issuing, and beneath an impressive cliff
are two large entrances below water level. RJS dived
first using 1274ls and 425ls whilst JTG sat waiting
with Giorgos on a rather surf swept ledge. The line
was belayed at a depth of 10m and RJS explored the left
hand entrance which was an impressive 5m by 8m arch .
After only 15m a lake chamber was entered and the diver
could look back through the two entrances into the sea
beyond. Above water the chamber was 10m high and the
water was about 8m deep with one small area where one
could stand chest deep and look about. Beyond the lake
which is some 25m in diameter the large passage was
followed at 6m depth for 20m to a narrow rift partially
blocked with calcite. Unable to see anything more
attractive the diver belayed the line and returned.
JTG and RJS then dived back to the lake together and
JTG examined the rift. The main source of fresh water
was found to be a small passage to the right which was
of small dimension with a strong current and was
explored for a few metres before a return was deemed
prudent. One could also surface in a very small
airbell at the top of the rift where water entered down
a calcite slope . After a few minutes the eyes became
accustomed to the dark and the whole cave can be
explored without the need for artificial lights. The
total length is 60m and from the extreme limit a clear
view out of the entrance is possible. JTG climbed out
of the water in the lake chamber but no dry
continuation could be found. Difficulty was experienced
in kitting up again out of depth in the surging water
of the main chamber.
The main Cave of Selinitsa contains some 4km of large
phreatic tunnels including an enormous chamber floored
by breakdown. The cave has been explored and surveyed
by the GSS, although it is clear that much remains to
be found here. The cave is well decorated but
unfortunately vandals have plundered and spoilt many of
the beautiful crystal deposits. After 1km of easy
walking passage a network of smaller passages is
reached and it is here that a short ladder pitch drops
into a large and inviting sump pool with water that is
slightly brackish indicating a connection with the sea.
RJS dived this heading in an upstream direction
indicated by the small visible movement of water. A
line was already in position and this was followed
until it ended after 50m. The passage up to that point
is a large tunnel about 5m wide and 3m high with small
patches of silt on the floor. An ascent can be made
after 20m to a small lake chamber which JTG reached via
an alternative overland route. For divers however, it
is easier to start at the bottom of the pitch rather
than drag the gear to the second sump pool. From the
end of the previous dive RJS laid 55m of new line in an
easy passage gradually deepening to 12m with visibility
at least 20m, i.e. as far as aquaflash torches could
penetrate. At several points there were underwater
stalactites and stalagmites which came as quite a
surprise and gave the diver a rather eerie feeling. At
the end a large flooded chamber was reached and the
depth appeared to shelve off steeply. Mindful of his
third margin, since he was only using 1274l and 425l
the diver was obliged to return.
Several days later JTG, eager to see for himself the
delights of the sump that RJS had been going on about
so rapturously, got his chance for a dive. Wearing
twin 1274ls he laid 75m of line beyond the entry to the
flooded chamber reaching a maximum depth of 17m and
ending at 8m depth with the continuation large and
inviting. The formations in this section are rather
good including a calcite cascade dotted with
stalagmites at 15m depth. Diving immediatley on JTG's
return RJS made a further 20m of progress to a deep
flooded pot, the bottom of which could not be seen.
Descending slowly, a large gallery was noted leading
off at 12m depth. This seemed a more attractive
prospect than the depths below and so it was followed
for 10m to a junction with two continuations leading
downwards. This time the bottom could be seen below and
the diver estimated this to be a depth of 20m. Already
overweight at 15m and having difficulty with the twin
1557ls RJS decided to return at this point and so the
line was belayed at the junction. Total length 210m
and the prospect of much more to come!
Having arrived back at base with air to spare RJS
examined the downstream continuation to retrieve a
cylinder boot lost on the earlier trip. The passage
was found to be of similar dimensions to the upstream
passage, and shelved off to 10m depth in a silt floored
tube. The line was tied off after a further 15m and
the wayward boot was recovered. According to the GSS
survey the sump pool lies 700m from its assumed rising
at the Spring of Dracos, and the prospect of diving
from here out into the sea is quite exciting, although
it would appear to involve some small passage in the
vicinity of the resugance as the discoveries detailed
above have shown.
The small cave with several entrances was examined via
the low entrance near sea level and was found to
contain an interesting freedive out into the sea. The
obvious continuation quickly chokes and is probably
associated with the main cave above and would appear to
have little promise.
(b). Stradiotis Cave
This cave is situated some 30m above sea level on the
eastern coast of the Mani peninsula close to the small
village of Floiuchori. Our interest was in the diving
potential of a rising in the sea below the cave.
Giorgos chatted up a local fisherman who kindly
consented to take us to the rising in his boat. JTG
leapt over the side with mask, fins and snorkel, and
examined the rising which was found to be a slot at 3m
depth with strong current emerging. The rising was
diveable but of small dimensions so we decided to
examine the main cave in the hope that the river could
be gained from inside as at Selinitsa. Searching back
along the coastline to Floiuchori, JTG free dived
through to a large lake at the entrance to what seemed
to be a cave. At the far end a dry passage could be
seen but without a light could not be entered. This
may be associated with a hole in the cliffs above which
we came across on a walk over to the main Stradiotis
Cave.
The dry cave was found to be infested with spiders and
bats and having spent the best part of an hour
slithering about in the detritus we decided there was
no negotiable way on. Lacking adequate supplies of air
we decided to use our limited reserves on other sites.
Any future divers in the area should note that it is
desirable to use a boat to reach the rising as the
coastline at this point is clad with thickly packed
thorny bushes which make walking unpleasant. They
should also note that the dirt track stops about 1km
short of Floiuchori. The rest is walking through olive
groves.
2. Tripolis Region.
On our way back to Athens after our visit to the Mani
peninsula we visited a resurgence at he village of
Kephalari located south east of Tripolis which is in
central Peloponesos. The spring is associated with a
large rising in the sea at the town of Leonidion on the
east coast of Poloponnesos in the Gulf of Argos .
Sinks in the mountains behind Tripolis over 30km away
have been dye tested by the GSS and shown to emerge at
Kephalari and later at Leonidion. The rising in the sea
is so powerful that the Greeks have built a sea wall
round it and run fresh water back inland to irrigate
their fields. Prior to this construction the rising
was explored by Italian and Greek divers for only a
short distance, the entrance being at a depth of 30m
and the passage continuing open beyond the limit of
exporation at -40m. The spring at Kelphalari is itself
a very powerful rising and even in the height of summer
looks to carry about double the flow of Brants Gill in
Ribbleshead. The source of the water is beneath the
foundations of a church and has been dived for 100m or
thereabouts to emerge in a large submerged passage
after passing beneath the crypt amongst some very
dangerous poised stonework. When we visited the spring
the water was distinctly cloudy and we did not dive
because of lack of adequate air supplies. The rising
is easy to reach by road and the enormous potential of
the site which has been demonstrated by the dye tests
makes this site an excellent diving prospect. As with
all good Greek caves there is a taverna within 100m of
the diving site.
$C EQUIPMENT AND TECHNIQUES
Both divers used conventional wetsuits and found these
to be adequate, in fact the temperature of the water
was such that no neoprene gloves were worn. The air
temperature in the caves was also high and where a
carry of some distance to the sump was involved it was
more comfortable to change into wetsuits at the sump,
swimming trunks and a tee-shirt sufficing for the rest
of the cave.
Underwater the main problem was one of buoyancy. The
use of large tanks over long distances necessitates
neutral buoyancy at all depths. If this is not
attained too much effort and air is expended in moving
along the passage and the visibility can easily be
ruined by contact with either the ceiling or the floor.
The best method of achieving this would appear to be by
means of a life jacket, such as the Fenzy, or a special
buoyancy bag strapped to the chest such as the American
cave divers. The use of such a jacket is also
invaluable when the dive starts in the sea. Swimming
to such dives can be very tiring and incorrect
weighting only aggravates this problem.
Visibility might have been thought to be the least of
problems in such sumps. However because it was so good
it was worth trying to preserve it and one can
understand why the Americans go to such great lengths
to avoid stirring up silt. Correct weighting
facilitates this, but some things are unavoidable. In
the cave of Selinitsa there was a layer of silt on the
ceiling which was easily disturbed by one's air bubbles
and descended like a muddy snow shower.
4mm orange sinking line was used, 150m being the
maximum reeled onto a line reel at one time. Because
the sumps are so easy (in terms of size and visibility)
there is a great temptation to go what might be
considered too far and it is possible that this is an
important factor underlying accidents in such sumps,
though no study has been made of this. Certainly 150m
seems a safe limit to the amount of passage that can be
explored while retaining a good knowledge of the route
for the return journey. Naturally this limit will
depend critically on the diver and the nature of the
sump. One useful idea gleaned from the length of line
that had been laid in the Cave of Selinitsa was the use
of loops of elastic or inner tube to attach the line to
boulders and does not entail the extra weight (and
expense) involved when lead weights are used to
position the line.
Whilst talking to a Greek cave diver he expressed his
concern that we did not dive in pairs. The English
method of training seems to emphasise the self reliance
of a diver and indeed in a lot of sumps in the UK,
diving in pairs is just not practical. In larger sumps
diving in pairs is only of use if one can actually help
the other in difficulties. If the latter is
encountering problems with his air supply this can
normally only be done if one is using an extended low
pressure hose, at least with any comfort. Another
possibility is that it may be possible to help a diver
ensnared in the line. To weigh up against these though
is that one may just not have the air reserves to help
the other diver and, depending on the reaction of the
other diver, this can be extremely dangerous. Also a
diver entangled in the line may be forced to cut the
line with another diver further into the sump. If the
visibility has been stirred up as well this can result
in serious problems for the second diver. In the event
the divers stuck to what they were used to, that is
diving independently.
Finally a word on back mounted cylinders. There seems
to be no justification for using these rather than side
mounted cylinders even in the largest sumps. It is
possible to carry as much air round one's waist as on
one's back, though it has to be admitted that there are
times when both have to be used. The main disadvantage
of back mounted cylinders is that their valves are very
exposed and it is often not possible to reach them to
turn them off. Trying to regulate the flow of air from
the back mounted cylinders by turning it on and off
(for whatever reason) is extremely difficult. The only
minor problem with side mounted cylinders would seem to
be the backache experienced when carrying many
cylinders.
In conclusion cave divers in the UK seem to take pride
in the fact that they do things differently because
their sumps are different. However, the sumps are not
always so different and in many respects they have a
lot to learn from their fellow divers abroad, but also
many of the techniques used could be usefully adopted
for use in the UK. Likewise we do not think that
foreign divers always get it right.
$C CONCLUSIONS
Although we were not able to visit many of the
promising regions, what we saw of Greece was sufficient
to convince us that there is a great deal of potential
for new cave exploration.
Moreover, the development of the cave systems is such
that diving may be the only way to gain access to the
percolation systems which must lie behind the coastline
resurgences. We feel sufficiently enthusiastic about
the possibilities to plan a return to the sites we
visited in 1981 to explore further. The following
would be a provisional list of specific aims for 1982:
1. To continue the exploration of Agia Trias on the
island of Evia and to produce an up to date survey.
2. To continue exploration of the sumps in Cave of
Selinitsa in the upstream direction, where the survey
indicates that a further 100m of progress would take
the submerged passages beyond the limit so far reached
in the dry galleries. This effort might usefully be
combined with a party working in the fossil levels
where we feel there is much potential. A subsidiary
objective would be to further explore the downstream
sump leading towards the Spring of Dracos.
3. To begin exploration at the Kephalari rising by
repeating the work done by the Italian and Greek
divers, and if possible to explore beyond the limit.
The main limitations encountered on our 1981 expedition
were lack of sufficient time and shortage of air. The
reason for the lack of time was that we had to look at
as many sites as we could in the time available to us
and so we were not able to stay at any one site. Now
that we have specific projects to pursue we should be
able to plan our time more precisely. With regard to
the problem of air, it will be necessary to take a
portable compressor with us in 1982. The only filling
stations are in Athens and in Patras, which are so far
from the areas of interest as to rule out the
possibility of using them on a regular basis. It is
not practical to carry a sufficient number of charged
cylinders to enable a sustained exploration at a remote
site to be carried out. There is also the safety
factor. During our visit in 1981 we were always
careful to allow adequate backup of equipment and air
should a diver get into difficulties. For a more
concerted exploration effort probably involving more
divers, local filling facilities will be essential.
In conclusion it can be said that our initial
expedition to Greece has confirmed our belief that the
country holds good potential for cave diving, and it is
well worth a more serious and carefully planned
exploration effort. The 1981 trip has laid the basis
for further work at several sites, and we have
developed useful contacts within the Greek
Speleological Society. We are confident that a return
visit in 1982 can build on this foundation and further
add to our knowledge of cave development in this
important and interesting area.
$C BUREAUCRACY.
There are certain rules and regulations governing
caving in Greece, primarily designed to protect the
country's archaeological and natural heritage.
Generally the authorities take a reasonably relaxed
attitude to their enforcement, but if there is any
doubt regarding the sites being visited the Greek
Speleological Society (GSS) should be contacted with a
view to obtaining the necessary clearances. In any
event it may be better contacting the GSS outlining the
areas one wishes to visit and the aims of the
expedition in order to identify the potential problems
before one gets there.
The GSS acts as the governing body for caving in
Greece. It carries out a program of collaborations
with foreign clubs, but this does not prevent foreign
clubs organising their own expeditions. Out of
courtesy, and to avoid duplication of work, the GSS
should be informed of any finds.
The GSS meets on Wednesday evenings in Athens and their
address is as follows:-
$C ELLINIKI SPILAILOGIKI ETAIRIA
$C MANTZAROU II
$C ATHENS
$C GREECE
Official looking notepaper helps when corresponding
with them. Many of them speak fluent English so
inability to write in Greek is no handicap.
$C ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS.
We would like to thank Nikos Tsimsilis, Giorgos
Abagianos and the "other" Nikos , all the members of
the Greek Speleological Society, for the help they
offered us in locating and diving suitable sites, and
for the hectic social life they arranged! We would
also like to thank Nick and Sally Reckert, and Katriona
and Taki Synotis for the hospitality they provided in
Athens and the help they gave us in organising the
expedition.
.blank
$e Julian Griffiths
[end CDG]
[begin ----- DOUG -----]
.newpage
$c SUPPORT YOUR CRUTCH!
$c The Buttockhugger Sitsling
Introduction and description
This article describes how to construct a sitsling for SRT use, which,
whilst not only one of the most comfortable things you've ever strapped around
your buttocks is also sparing on the old green and crinklies.
The design is based on an obscure make of French baudrier which I picked up
in Gay Paree and caved happily on for several years. Recently I became rather
uneasy with the thin, rusty bits of wire which did most of the load carrying
so I attempted to reconstruct it using sturdy British (hooray) components.
The results were very successful and are described below.
The major feature of the Buttockhugger is that it consists of just one piece
of tape threaded in intricate patterns through various buckles. There is no
stitching, there are no knots and F= u N is all that stops you from
descending the quickest way. This has immense advantages: for a start it enables
you to build a sitsling safely yourself from two-inch tape and when the tape
wears out you just buy another 3.5m and rethread it; an immense economy over
buying a whole new unit. It's relatively cheap, mine cost just under nine
pounds, and it even seems to be safe.
.BLANK
Construction
The worst thing about the Buttockhugger is building it. Working out how to
thread it makes solving a cube look simple. The second worst thing is working
out how to put it on, but we'll come to that later.
.BLANK
You will require the following:
.DISPLAY
No. required Item Ref. on figures 1 and 2
2 Belay 'D' ring 1
2 Black coated bent 3 bar buckle 2
3 Flat plated steel 3 bar buckle 3
(All buckles for 2" tape by Troll)
2" tape
(Polyester or nylon tape depending on your cell type.
3.5m is enough for my 34" beer gut)
Optional 1m of 5/8" tape
Needle and stout tape
.ENDD
The best thing to do now is to simulate the topology shown in figure 2. Once
you've got the thing in front of you it makes a bit more sense and you can
adjust it.
First you find the middle of the tape, point A on figure 2. Preserve symmetry
about this point. Thread on the 'D' rings and two buckles as shown in figure 2.
The assemblies should be around 700mm apart when pulled tight. This length
forms the belt part. Go on down the ends about 80mm and form the leg loops
with the bent buckles. Lay the whole thing flat on the floor with the tape on
edge and bring the two loose ends up out of the leg loops and run them both into
the last buckle. Hey Presto! Fini, as the French would say. Now comes the
awkward bit; by studying figures 3 and 4 you will eventually achieve the
intellectual leap which enables you to work out how the various straps relate
to your body. Then it's just a case of tediously pushing tape through the buckles
until it fits.
The leg loop buckles should come just below the hips and the belt should be
fairly high up on the back. The buttock strap should provide light support in
the sitting position. With a krab or even better a triangular Maillon Rapide
between the 'D' rings you now have a viable sitsling.
One final optional mod for a really deluxe job. You will find that when you
crawl the leg loops drop. This can be prevented by using that piece of 5/8"
tape as a kind of suspender from the middle of the back belt. I have only
shown this on figure 4 to avoid confusion. Stitch or knot this into place.
.BLANK
Operation and Tests
The Buttockhugger takes your weight mainly on the leg loops and so is very
comfy. I have tried it in the NPC testing lab and underground and consider it
quite safe.
All the components are rated at around two tonnes so things shouldn't start
to ping until your ropes and krabs start to do likewise. Your natural
position in it is upright and even if you do turn upside down you do not
fall out.
If by any chance one side should break you are still secure and capable of
carrying out all SRT functions although rather uncomfortably. The tape shows
no tendency to slip through the buckles even under shock loads.
In use the major wear occurs on the tape in the buckles on the hips, but since
tape replacement is cheap you can do this as soon as any severe wear shows.
A final warning, do make sure that you are very familiar with the way that the
various loops relate to the various parts of your body, since once tangled
it's rather awkward to work out what goes where. It would be very embarrassing
to be rescued from the bottom of a big pitch because you couldn't put your
sitsling back on.
.BLANK
$E Doug Florence
[end DOUG]
[begin ----- EDITOR -----]
.newpage
$c EDITORIAL
Short but sweet so as not to risk being "boring". I
should like to take the opportunity of answering
certain comments made by Mr. Checkley in his review of
last year's journal, suggesting too much space was
devoted to articles which would be of little interest
to non-members. About 75% of our journals are sold to
current or ex-members of the club, and to those who
have close contacts with the club, so I feel we are
justified in including articles of this nature, in
addition to articles keeping other groups informed as
to what CUCC is doing.
Many thanks to all those who have submitted articles
and surveys; mainly EXCS members as in previous years.
Thanks also to Tony for his invaluable services as
"Northern Editor", and to those who helped with the
typing and collating, especially Charles Butcher, Mark
Hunter and Mr. Lewis at Fitz.
Cambridge Underground will continue to be published on
an annual basis - we hope to bring out next year's
early in 1983 as this avoids clashes with exams and May
Week for those involved with production. We hope to
reprint the 1981 journal which has currently sold out -
but copies of past journals from other years are
available at 50p each plus p&p. For those wishing to
contact us, the club has a permanent mailing address:-
.blank
.display
CUCC
c/o Dr. J.C.D. Hickson
Pembroke College
Cambridge.
.endd
Apologies for the lack of photographs - but high costs
of printing make it not worth our while to include them
unless they are of high quality and would reproduce
well. Anything else I might have said has been
adequately covered by our revered President in his
"Bit" - so that's yer lot.
Buy me a pint in Yorkshire sometime ....
.blank
$e Judith Greaves.
[end EDITOR]
[begin ----- EIRE -----]
.newpage
$c CUCC EIRE TRIP 20th-27th March 1982
.blank
Pete Lancaster, Judith Greaves, Dave Brindle, Philip
Sargent, Mike Thomas, John Hibbert, Jem Drummond, Andy
Dolby, Steve Crawley, Steve Roberts, Gail Smith, Dave
Flatt, Simon Kellet and Doug Florence met at Fishguard
at about 0210 Saturday morning on the 20th. This was
the result of an organisational epic which had taken
most of the previous week to arrange and involved
Phil's car from Cambridge, Doug's from Gravesend (via
Cardiff), Dave F's from Hampton (via Oxford), Simon's
from Cambridge to Rushden and Gail's from Rushden to
Fishguard. Ten hours later at Doolin, County Clare, we
discovered that Dave B. had booked fourteen of us into
a cottage for seven (plus baby) and Steve R. entered
into some circumspect negotiation with the owner before
we all turned up. We were to be allowed 'about ten'
people, but we knew that he knew that we knew that we
were going to fit in a few more.
During the week an estimated 300 to 350 pints of
Guinness were drunk at O'Connor's in Doolin.
The next Saturday we drove back East to Wexford where
we stopped off for a couple of quick ones at The Wren's
Nest, ate the local fast-food shop out of gut-wrenching
chips, and took off for Rosslare and the ferry. Since
we were less zonked on the return, instead of crashing
immediately some of us got to see the generally Noisier
and Smellier Parts of the ship with a tour of the
engines and generators given by the Irish Engineer.
Some also climbed the funnel and photos were taken.
Back in Wales a thick fog hampered a rapid return but
all got home safely: Gail's car's Flatt-adjusted timing
and Philip's car's rewired exhaust notwithstanding.
At this point my attention is drawn to the fact that I
may have omitted something in this account. Could it be
the Grand Bonfire and Brindle's Dead Dog Barbecue on
Doolin Beach on Friday night ? Perhaps I have passed
over the relaxing cliff walks, castle visits, seashore
strolls and Ballyvaughn picnics on Wednesday, or the
playing in the breakers on Thursday afternoon in
various states of undress: partial, complete, or, in
Simon's case, fully-clothed.
The gloriously sunny and warm weather of nearly all
the week was superb and we were gently woken in the
mornings by the gentle strumming of Dave B.'s or
Simon's fingers on Gail's squeeze-box (the latter noise
being invariably followed by the unmistakeable sound of
a Chemical Engineer's fingers being threaded through
the lace-holes of his own boots). Doug's mandolin gave
John and Steve C. much amusement and the less said
about Dave B's penny whistle the better. Anyway, I have
it now and I am looking for interesting suggestions of
what to do with it to whom.
Meals prepared by Doug the Chef (and Head of
Extraterrestrial Activities of a well-known, up and
coming Trefoil-Furnace development company), ably
assisted by whoever was not fast enough to absent
themselves from the kitchen in time, are memorable for
their equisite flavours and textures, but also mostly
for their bulk: some evenings it was all we could do
just to look at our pints of Guinness, a shameful thing
in Eire.
A comfortable lunch on Paddy's at the Roadside Inn,
Lisdoonvarna, starlit walks to the cottage from Gus
O'Connor's are fond memories. A truly Excellent Trip in
every way.
.blank
$e Philip Sargent
[end EIRE]
[begin ----- EXCS -----]
.newpage
$c GREAT KNOUTBERRY INVIOLATE
Strange sounds have been heard around the summit of
Great Knoutberry in recent weeks - great puffings and
gaspings, creakings and groanings, clouds of steam
rising along the horizon. No, not the steam of the
trains that rattle along the viaduct below on their
romantic journeys up to Carlisle (for how much longer
they will do so remains a sadly indeterminate
question). No, these are less regular, not the powerful
rhythm of the great engine, more like the painful
wheezing of tortured lungs, grasping for each molecule
of air, buffeted inside the heaving chest of some tired
and ancient body as it struggles up the slope.
Curious tracks meander across the snow covered fells,
emerging from a line of depressions to the south-east
of Great Knoutberry at a regular height of about 185O
feet and running down the Arton Gill track into
Dentdale. At the bottom of these inverted cone shaped
depressions, in this landscape resembling the pock-
marked face of our meteor bombarded companion moon, the
tracks become confused; boulders have been newly
overturned, their moss coverings torn by unknown forces
; silt-like deposits spread all around; black holes
falling through the earth's surface.
Around 1963, explorers first entered two holes in
this area to find pitches dropping sheer in black and
rugged rock to land on boulder floors some 6O feet
below. On the 31st January 1981 a party consisting of
astronomer, geographer and architect descended Great
Knoutberry Hole No.2 in search of endless passages to
find only a continuation of 18 feet to one side of the
entrance pitch, ending in an impenetrable slot refusing
entry to the secrets beyond. On the 14th Februry 1982
one of these explorers returned to the area searching
for passages that must surely lie below the wind-swept
fell. He found two recently discovered openings.
The first, No Opinel Pot, in a line of depressions slightly below
those in which the Great Knoutberry Holes lie, is
a vertical shaft dropping 15 feet through
the familiar black rock to a floor of jammed boulders
with signs of a further few feet of drop below. The
second, Keyring Cave, following the upper line of
shakeholes to the west and over a wall, drops 1O feet
into a small dripping chamber twisted around on itself
to a tiny descending slit in the wall, the remains of a
dead sheep lending a macabre scent of decomposing flesh
to the deep darkness.
The mystery remains..Whose are those curious imprints
in the snow? What secret labyrinths exist beyond the
impenetrable slots through which the cold waters flow?
We shall not rest until we have the answers to these
questions, except if the pubs are open.
.blank
$e EXCS
[end EXCS]
[begin ----- FRENCH -----]
.newpage
$C A HOLIDAY IN THE PYRENEES
.blank
France has many attractions for the geriatrics of
EXCS. There is the cheap wine and food, and also a lot
of easy, warm, well-decorated caves - all with very
foreign and impressive names. "When I was down
Esparros," you can say as you begin another lunchtime
tale in the New Inn, knowing that few people will
realize that Esparros is like a show cave with the
lights dimmed. When you can bore people with tales of
easy caves, why bother with the hard trips ? Our
previous caving holidays had been spent going down the
same gloomy hole day after day. It was exciting
treading where no man had gone before, but all too
often there was a good reason why no-one else had
bothered. So we were off to the Pyrenees with dreams of
towering formations and meandering underground rivers,
followed by five-course French meals in the local
sleepy village. And it was all true.
During our three weeks we spent a lot of time
travelling and packing up camp but we managed to sample
a great variety of French caves, and here are just a
few....
Sinai, Lot-et-Garonne
If you are offered the chance of 2km of crawling in a
sordid little streamway just to see a mud sump, don't
bother. We were in no state to make a sensible decision
when a trip down Sinai was suggested. After a big meal
and an even bigger dose of Armagnac, a quick caving
trip seemed the ideal way to round off the evening. But
once inside the entrance we soon regretted it. It was
unpleasantly like the Penyghent canals, but with
nothing at the end. So if you are...
Grotte de Labastide, Hautes-Pyrenees
We had just had a trip down Esparros, but it was only 2
p.m. and even Ben didn't fancy retiring to the bar. So
we dug out our battered copy of Grottes et Canyons and
found that Labastide was nearby. There were the usual
problems - roaming around the village with book in hand
trying to fathom out the obscure directions. But even
we couldn't fail to find this one. It's a big entrance,
70 ft by 10 ft, with a grill which is meant to act as
an intelligence test to stop vandals getting at the
cave paintings inside, while allowing genuine cavers in
(vandals are too intelligent).
With three lights between the five of us, we strolled
off down the huge passage. Tony saw the first painting
- he's the artistic one and has a vivid imagination. It
looked more like a muddy smudge than a rampant buffalo.
But there was the real thing, on a big upright slab, an
eight foot high red and black horse. All very
atmospheric in the flickering light of our dying
carbide lamps. The atmosphere became a bit too dark as
two of the lamps went out and we quickly fumbled our
way back to daylight.
Grotte de pereblanque, Haute-Garonne
The Reseau Trombe offers a number of excellent trips
all within a small area, set high in the foothills of
the Pyrenees. It was early evening when we strode up
the track to the campsite. The storm clouds were
scattering and soon the mountains were bathed in
sunlight - all very idyllic, until we rounded the final
bend and found thirty Chelsea S.S. cluttering up the
scene. But there was plenty of room for everyone in
this perfect campsite of sheltered mountain pastures.
With nearby streams, plenty of firewood and a choice of
first class caving within a hundred yards, you could
happily spend several weeks here.
Our first trip was down the Mille and into the vastness of the Trou de Vent.
It is used as the local novice cave - we found two parties of schoolgirls
at -300m, and it's well worth a visit. Next day it was time for sterner
stuff and so we toiled uphill following the worn path to the obvious entrance
of Peneblanque. The icy wind blowing out from the depths was a great relief after
the heat and sweat of the walk. With a level sandy floor, a glorious view and
built in air conditioning, is this the perfect changing room? Rapid progress
was easy in the large entrance series. Routefinding was fairly simple- the only
difficulty is ten minutes in where there is a chaotic area, but the way is well
scratched.The account in Grottes et Gouffres is quite adequate, whilst still
keeping its air of mystery which is so sadly lacking in the boringly accurate
Northern Caves.
Walking passages led to small tubes and a series of slippery slopes - just
slide down and forget about how difficult they will be on the return.The odd
pitch follows and then you get into the bigstuff. And it gets bigger and
bigger until you emerge in the huge silence of the Salle du Dromadaire.
A bit more passage, another pitch and there's a big black hole, the way on down
into the far reaches of the system. But we were there for fun,so we went out, back
in time to enjoy a meal in daylight and to get a fire going before the start of
the evening's display of shooting stars.
.blank
Gouffre Raymonde, Haute-Garonne
.blank
This sporting trip had been recommended by a number of people. So armed with scraps
of paper covered with jottings of various estimates of pitch lengths and a rough
sketch survey, we stumbled off into the grey drizzle. Ignoring the bolts, we
belayed the rope for the entrance pitch to a rotting tree-just to ensure a sporting
hang with lots of rubs. Down the 30m pitch and scrabbling on down rifts,round
boulders, gaining depth easily. Then a fine 50m hang from huge boulders
down to the streamway.A quick romp along the streamway, a couple of short
pitches and the water disappears into a great darkness. It was suddenley
very cold and wet as we peered down into the black swirling spray.
But once the big rope was down the 130m pitch, it soon warmed up again.
With the crashing waterfall out of reach and perfect rebelays, all you had to
do was sit back on your rack and enjoy the view. The final 80m drop landed
in the middle of a small lake, and forced along by the roaring draught,
we continued on down the streamway. A couple of short pitches and the final
wet one of 50m. But we were now soaked through and fearful of the rain
on the surface, we began our retreat. With heavy ropes, now too tangled and
bulky to fit in the tackle bags, we slowly prussiked up the pitches and
struggled up the entrance rifts, emerging to a dismal rain soaked evening.
A glorious memorable day which came to a perfect ending when squatting
outside the tents in the rain, stirring a disgusting stew, I managed to
upset the lot into the mud. And when we tasted it, we wished we'd left
it there.
.blank
Summary
.blank
Ken Baker, John Bowers, Andy Connolly, Tony Malcolm, Ben van Millingen
spent three weeks in August 1981 eating, drinking, mixing concrete
and caving in the Pyrenees. They relied on personal recommendations,
"Grottes et Canyons" and local maps for information. As well as the
trips described, they made half-hearted descents of Reveillon, Viazac,
Esparros, Mille, Betchanka and Castaret.
.blank
$e John Bowers
[end FRENCH]
[begin ----- GERMAN -----]
.newpage
$c THE GERMAN ROUTE, STELLERWEGHOHLE
.BLANK 3
The German route was looked at in 1980 (a complete
description is in Cambridge Underground 1981) and the
survey appears here only for completeness. This route
starts soon after the 41 entrance by turning right
instead of left (see main survey). Exploration ceased
140m below the start of the pitches when the way on
became tight - this was 180m below the entrance. It
undoubtedly drops back into the system lower down, but
was not felt to be worth pushing.
[end GERMAN]
[begin ----- INTRO#41 -----]
.newpage
$c AUSTRIA 1981
.BLANK 3
For newcomers to Cambridge Underground, a few words may
be in order about our involvement with Austria. The
first CUCC expedition in 1976 stayed at the small
village of Altaussee, 55km southeast of Salzburg and on
the southwestern fringe of the Totes Gebirge - and we
have had no reason to move. The 77-79 expeditions
worked on the Loser Plateau and found 82 (-215m), 97
(-265m) and 106 (-506m) (see map). The numbers are
those of the Austrian Catalogue and should be prefixed
by the area code 1623/. The 1980 expedition
concentrated on an area further south (and nearer the
car park at the top of the toll road); this was the
region near the Stoger Weg, path no. 201. 113
(Sonnenstrahlhohle) went to -329m; 41 (Stellerweghohle)
was still going at -350m; and 115 (Schnellzughohle, but
referred to as Gemsescheissehohle in last year's
journal) was discovered. The 41 entrance is just above
the path near the point where it drops sharply and 115
is nearby, below the path. It was with the intention
of looking at these two pots that the 1981 expedition
went out for the first three weeks of August.
This year's expedition included a large number of new
faces. The usual EXCS contingent had decided to give
Austria a rest for a year and live it up in the
Pyrenees; so that there were mostly resident CUCC
members on this year's trip.They were joined by a large
party from the UBSS,some of whom had been to Austria
before.Although the expedition as a whole lacked
experience outside Britain, the larger than usual
number of very enthusiastic and able speleos gave hopes
of a succesful expedition
Those partaking of regular refreshment in the Bar
Fischer were:
.blank
.display
Rich Barker UBSS
Dave Brindle CUCC
Chas Butcher CUCC
John Cownie CUCC
Judith Greaves CUCC
Simon Kellet CUCC
Pete Lancaster CUCC
Jane Lolly
Tim Lyons UBSS
Fraser Macdonald CUCC
Mike Martin UBSS
Pat Martin UBSS
Mick McHale UBSS
Janet Morgan BUPC
Clive Owen UBSS
Rob Parker SWCC
Tim Parker CUCC
Steve Perry UBSS/CUCC
Phil Townsend CUCC
Julian Walker SWCC
Martin Warren UBSS
.endd
.blank
four of whom had caved on the CUCC expedition in
previous years.
The expedition intended to continue the exploration
of 41 and 115 from 198O and so Altaussee was the
obvious place to stay.The steady influx of nineteen
cavers, their cars, ropes, and heaps of smelly tackle
came as rather a shock to Fritz the campsite owner and
even more so to the other campers.The half-sized
campsite rapidly became overcrowded- some of us nearly
had to sleep in t'bottom o't'lake with only a handful
of cold ravioli for breakfast.This overcrowding was
certainly a factor, along with the hedgehog, in the
spreading of the dreaded Lurgi in the second week, when
everybody on the site was struck down at some time by
the legendary Spanish tummy, Delhi belly, or whatever
you care to call it.This illness nearly had serious
consequences when several people were taken ill
underground, one particularly badly,leading to a
certain lack of enthusiasm to enter 115 amongst other
cavers for fear of what they might put their hands in!
Many thanks are due to our eminent expedition surgeon
for ministering to the sick with undying affection.
CUCC will not forsake Fritz another opportunity of
forcing them to drink a crate of beer on arrival;
Seecamping Madlmeier will see them again next year.As
in previous years a special rate was negociated for the
toll road - bottles of Scotch should go on the top of
any quartermaster's list of essentials. An
accident-free three weeks on the driving front was an
unexpected achievement considering the many early hours
trips back from the plateau and our previous record of
crashes.
The arrival of the UBSS in force on the Loser this
year was particularly useful from an equipment point of
view.They had received and spent a sizeable grant on
expedition tackle so that there was enough rope to
explore two large caves at once and furthermore no
necessity to chop up personal rope.The UBSS also
provided much of the transport in the first week.
It was decided that the UBSS/SWCC Hohlenforschers
would concentrate on 41 whilst CUCC renewed the attack
on 115.This decision was based purely on the fact that
Steve Perry knew where 41 was and Simon Kellet
purported to know the whereabouts of 115.In fact
everyone who wished got a trip in both caves; which
produced some constructive criticism of the rigging in
115! The exploration of 41 was perhaps carried out by
too few and as a result very long tackling trips were
undertaken, worth many hero points but leaving several
days when no-one entered the cave.The rigging was a
superb piece of engineering and the cave a real
pleasure to descend.In contrast 115 was overmanned,
largely because the prospect of breaking new ground was
present from the first trip, and some pretty
unimaginative rigging was done.It is fair to say that
the entrance series of 115 to the steamway, does not
lend itself to long free-hanging pitches, much of the
depth being gained in hading rifts; any exploration
next year ought to start by rigging a more enticing
route in.
Once the streamway and dry high-level dry phreatic
maze had been reached in 115, and a similar situation
revealed in 41 the chance of a connection became more
than a dream.A 115 trip to find a bypass to the first
arduous 500m of streamway discovered a considerable
amount of phreatic passage, some with seemingly
anomalous draughts. Finding no obvious right way on a
cairn was built at the farthest point of exploration
and a decision to push on down the streamway made.
Three days later a pushing trip in 41 discovered the
cairn and the connection was made. Unfortunately it now
became easier to get into the system so that the more
spectacular and better-rigged entrance was used only
for tourist through-trips and may not be rigged next
year.
The exploration of the streamway was dogged by
illness, badly coordinated trips in which teams reached
the bottom to find that there was insufficient rope or
the bolt kit had been taken out, and by the arduous
nature of the first tight 500m of streamway. It will
be necessary to find a high level route if the
exploration is not to involve twenty hour trips and a
lot of enthusiasm.
Very little prospecting was done this year, and
most of it concentrated on finding a third entrance to
the 41/115 system. 32 is a promising hole but requires
either a lot of hammer wielding or an application of
Dr. Nobel's Linctus. The region to the north of 113
has yet to be investigated, largely because it is a
long walk to lug tackle!
CUCC is not in the habit of mounting serious
scientific expeditions and this was no exception.
Surveying was the ususal pain in the posterior and the
club lacks a committed cartographer to sit around in
the cold distasteful bits of 115. The club does have a
surfeit of geologists but they showed very little
interest in applying their brains to the hydrology and
geology of the system, though they did find some
"pretty fossils - **** knows what they are".
CUCC may be criticized for not moving to pastures
new, but the fact remains that the Loser Plateau
continues to provide good caving, considerable depth
potential - the current bottom of 41/115 is around 800m
below the entrance to Eislufthohle - and is a very
accessible area. This latter part has to be the
greatest advantage, after all for most participants the
expedition is a holiday and so there should be a
minimum amount of donkey work, trekking and roughing it
involved, and easy access to beer, Apfelstrudel and
Pfeffersteaks.
.blank
$e Phil Townsend
[end INTRO#41]
[begin ----- MAGNET -----]
.newpage
$c MAGNETOMETER - EARTHWORM EXTENSIONS
Rob and Julian noticed a new choke down near Earthworm
Passage in Magnetometer Pot on a diving trip. Coming
from the Whale it is situated at the end of the rift
you can stand up in where the passage to Earthworm
leads off to the right. They pulled a few boulders out
until a stream could be heard and a continuing passage
could be seen.
The next trip down was armed with some digging gear and
rope to pull away the more precarious boulders.
Unfortunately the worst didn't move and those that did
had a knack of only falling when someone was standing
underneath them. The way on is a climb up through the
choke following the stream that flows through the
boulders. Here the passage rises to standing room. To
the left a small inlet passage leads off, starting at
stooping height but rising as the stream cuts into the
mud banks. It stops after 150ft in a solid calcited
choke. Back at the main passage a stream runs in the
floor with banks of mud on the right. The stream comes
out of a choke which is bypassed to the right. Above
this is a muddy chamber. On the right is a solid wall,
at the foot of which is a very low bedding plane the
other side of which is thought to be Earthworm Passage.
In the chamber under the left hand wall are two choked
pools, probably connected to the stream leading to the
original choke at the start of the dig. Above these
pools is a short thrutch through more boulders. Here
the passage drops down to a hole leading to a 20 foot
hands and knees crawl.
The next trip by Rob and Julian was to investigate the
different pools in the extension. All of them were
found to be choked. Abandoning their bottles they
continued to the muddy crawl. This changes from hands
and knees to an incredibly muddy body sized tube for 30
feet - you stick to every wall. The tube ended at the
top of a pitch for which they had no ladder.
That evening Julian caught Ben in an enthusiastic mood
i.e. in the pub, and persuaded him he wanted to go
caving the next day. Taking a ladder for the pitch at
the end of the tube, a bolt was put in the wall as
there is no natural belay. The take off is rather
awkward especially for those with long legs as the tube
extends right up to the head of the pitch. 15 feet
down lands in a foot deep pool of water seemingly with
no way on. Unfortunately a very narrow crack of air
provides the way on through a sporting duck under the
wall opposite the tube. It emerges in a flat out
crawl. A small passage was noticed just after this on
the right but the route followed was straight ahead to
where the roof rises slightly only to find the passage
is blocked by stal. Some time was spent digging at
this until it was discovered one could squeeze through.
Assuring Ben he'd never get through, Julian disappeared
into the continuing passage. After twenty feet a stream
was met and downstream the passage was blocked again by
stal. Upstream the passage continued for some 250 feet
ending in a choke. On the way back a junction with a
dry passage was explored. A crawl emerged in a rather
large phreatic passage, but remembering his assistant
lying in a pool of water back at the stal Julian returned.
A team of four returned to survey and finish the
exploration. The small passage just after the duck was
followed rather than the straight ahead route, and this
bypassed the stal blockage. Downstream the passage was
found to end in an unpleasant sump. Upstream the dry
crawl was followed to a 15x20 foot phreatic passage
ending abruply after 40 feet. The passage turned
sharply left down to a sump with a mud and boulder
slope preventing further progress. Two people were
left to look at any loose ends while the others went
out surveying only to find that they possessed a very
erratic compass. Reaching the 15 foot pitch, what had
been a small trickle had now turned into a torrent.
However the duck in the pool at the bottom of the pitch
remained passable which suggests that the pool must
drain somewhere. Though many of the passages at the
bottom of Magnetometer undoubtedly do fill up with
water, many trips have been undertaken when the weather
is extremely wet. On this trip water was flowing over
the boulders at the start of the extension rather than
just through them, but there was no noticeable increase
in water level throughout the rest of the cave.
Surveying trips down Magnetometer seem to be devilled
with bad luck: one trip to survey some new passage in
Cow Close was curtailed by a distinctly nasty medical
complaint; trips to Earthworm extensions were foiled
once by an erratic compass and on another occasion by a
boulder falling out of the roof at the start of the
greasy tube onto someone's hand. Since then however
the survey has been completed with no more excitement
than a multiple light failure.
The total length of 700 to 800 feet of new passage with
five new sumps and three new streams adds to the
interesting and complex nature of Magnetometer breaking
into some large phreatic passage, though intersected by
some extremely sordid sections. It is an area that
deserves further attention, heading as it does towards
Penyghent.
.blank
$e Ben van Millingen
[end MAGNET]
[begin ----- PBIT -----]
.newpage
$c THE PRESIDENT'S BIT
I shall abandon the normal practice of writing about a
complete academic year and relate what has happened
since the last "bit" i.e. Summer '81 to Easter '82. At
the end of last year the club was doing pretty well for
itself, being large enough to do classic trips and
still take novices caving. The pre- and post tripos
meets in very dry conditions saw Hammer, Gingling,
Black Shiver and Pippikin all bottomed as well as many
of the more usual trips. This slice of club history
was rounded off by a very successful Austrian
expedition, which was unusual in that most of the
members were still at Cambridge or had just left and
for many it was their first taste of foreign caving.
Despite this lack of experience of expedition caving, a
solid base of Yorkshire pot bashing, coupled with much
good luck meant that CUCC got to its deepest ever:
-680m (plus or minus a bit).
So the academic year 81-82 opened with quite a
reputation to keep up. The squash and coach meet to
Carlswalk were as polished as ever, but at the end of
it all we emerged with our lowest recruitment ever. To
some extent this can be blamed on our unwillingness to
extract money from people (!), and also on the
recession with students being rather more careful how
they spent their meagre grant; however it seems that
the only people we didn't recruit were those who
normally contribute to the ghost membership of the
club, and overall we were in the same position as ever.
One problem which became apparent during the year was
the lack of sufficient experienced members both to lead
novices and to go on glory trips, and we were fortunate
that this year novice trips took preference rather than
a peeling off of the "hards" into their own clique as
has happened in the past. Last year was exceptional in
that there were sufficient older members to allow both
sorts of trip on the same meet. The solution seems to
be to reserve vacation and private meets for classic
trips and to look after novices on the normal term time
club meets - to let them do their own thing can only
result in disaster as was shown by the rescue in 1979.
Anyway, amongst the pots we finally got down were:
Rowten, Sleets Gill, Cherry Tree, Wade's Entrance,
Slasher (bottomed at last), Lost Johns, Magnetometer,
Disappointment, County, South Wales, Mendip including a
fine free diving trip to Swildons 9; and for the first
time in 8 years, CUCC actually bottomed Langcliffe,
even if it did take rather a long time.
To do our bit for conservation we have joined the scheme run by "Descent" and
adopted Tatham Wife Hole. On our first cleaning trip down there we removed two
fertiliser bags full of rubbish; we hope to do this regularly in the future.
On the tackle front: to replace our decimated ladder
stock, 100m were constructed in about 4 days, and it
doesn't really seem worth building it in quantities
much less than this, since once the skills have been
relearned ladder can be churned out at an alarming
rate. Despite the expedition, SRT was not used much in
Yorkshire; I think the first flush of excitement has
worn off and it has been realised that there are
remarkably few trips where it is worth using. The
club's policy of abseiling down lifeline (i.e. 11mm
laid nylon not specifically reserved for SRT) and self
lining up has come in for some criticism. I think that
the length of pitches on which we use the method (130ft
or less), and fairly good abrasion resistance of the
rope make the sacrificing of some safety acceptable for
the increased speed and simplicity.
Our distance from the caves has supplied the usual
problems, but slogging up the A1 does nothing but
increase our keenness to go caving when we do get
there. There were few private cars in the club this
year and this has meant the additional expense of
hiring a minibus and/or cars - but it looks as if the
University Societies Syndicate will be subsidising
transport to some extent and this will certainly be
quite a breakthrough. On other financial matters, we
get far less money than most other university clubs,
but have evolved a reasonable system whereby only
ladders, lining ropes and belays are owned by the club;
and lights, krabs and SRT ropes etc are individuallly
owned. Producing a journal every year almost bankrupts
us, but we survive somehow.
The older members (formally grouped together as EXCS)
have been as active as ever in Yorkshire and elsewhere,
and it is largely for their efforts that this journal
exists. You can read about Magnetometer further on,
but not mentioned is that after many years of hard
work, the Goyden - New Goyden connection has been
established by divers Rob Shackleton and Julian
Griffiths. Undergraduate members are too busy pot
bashing and gaining experience to worry about such
sordid and time consuming activites as digging, and
although resident members can hope to do little
original exploration in this country, there is always
the surveying to be helped with at the end of it all,
and the chance of glory in Austria. The ex-members are
a vital part of CUCC, to provide experience when the
club is flagging, inspiration ("the time we bottomed
Penyghent in only 4 hours"), and to maintain the
continuing traditions of the club.
To sum up then, this year has been largely successful,
despite the apparent lack of new members, and this just
goes to show that no matter what happens to the club,
it will still bounce back; for where two or more are
drinking together - there is CUCC. I look forward to
the 1982 expedition; it should provide good reading in
next year's journal, and wish the club a healthy
future.
.blank
$e Pete Lancaster.
[end PBIT]
[begin ----- PERRY -----]
.newpage
$c UBSS IN AUSTRIA - STELLERWEGHOHLE AND THE CONNECTION
.blank
Stories of pitches, classic continental rigging and
depth, honour and glory attracted the UBSS to join CUCC
in Austria. With them came the state of art tackle they
had bought to the keen specification of their more
experienced members. The latter came too, though not
all of their experience had been of caving over the
previous few years. One, a Doctor noted for his energy,
sent out to buy an Escort for transport misinterpreted
his brief and provided a racy little sportster. The
others showed good humour by providing the real
transport; an Escort advertising longevity and the
redundancy of prissy bodywork, and an Imp with a trailer
its own size. The trailer was in quite reasonable
repair. Your correspondent provided a tent suitable for
the bridge parties and a cook to double as decoration
and baggage for the sportster.
We were joined in Austria by two SWCC members - whose
tackle we left in England as we were not going to stand
for 'Hangers On' taking advantage. Unknown to us, these
muscular youths had firm invitations and were hurt by
our short measure; understandably - we agreed - as we
watched them hurl a lesser Politician from our ranks
far into the icy lake. We fortunately had some spare
kit for them and were thus joined by two most pleasant
and powerful cavers.
The walk to Stellerweghohle (41a) takes a contoured
path from the restaurant overlooking the campsite. In
the sun it is an enjoyable stroll made serious only by
the thoughts of caving ahead. Memories of the long slog
across the plateau on previous trips are recounted with
expansive gestures over the skyline, and just a hint of
'hard days remembered' in the eyes. The easy efficiency
of our path soon leads to an orange paint blob marking
the start of the winding climb up through thick bush
and stone gullies to the 41a entrance. Below, a more
serious slither leads down to 115. The entrance belches
cold air, welcome relief to sweat for just a moment
before the various chills of present, past and future
cool the mind.
The route to the big pitch follows phreatic passages
developed along inclined bedding planes. It is crossed
by 45 degree ramps which are traversed, several with the aid
of fixed lines. The first pitch bypass (found on a trip
for which I created lateral opportunities by forgetting
to include rock anchors in the tackle) takes one of
these ramps down, then along the strike to
join the bottom of the pitch chamber.
The final ramp is descended, dropping down the base of
its 'T' section, then over large boulders to the
division of the rift. To the right last year's route
gains an airy take-off made torrid (does he really mean
this word ? typist) by mud and spoilt further by
rebelays at several contact points. To the left, a
couple of 10m abseils lead to a fine free hang for the
big pitch: a splendid 100m drop, hanging at times at
least 10m from the nearest wall, broken only by a free
rebelay in slings.
At the foot of the pitch a stream runs down the rift,
then below an awkward traverse section which is
followed by a series of progressively wetter and
tighter pitches. These were rigged as tight as
possible. We remember the sound of flood pulses -
possibly more inhibiting in the telling than to the
cold flesh (what _does_ he mean ? typist) but a feature
not to take lightly in a place with the promise of this
cave.
A hammered squeeze on a 6m pitch adds interest as a
marker of better to come - not the least interest is
the thought of others negotiating it. Strange comfort.
An awkward 7m pitch then a stretchy climb (up over
large boulders and losing the water) follows the rift
into a magnificent cleft some 3m wide and over 100m
high. Oddly it was at this spot last year that we
directed attention to an alternative route (the 'German
Route') for 3 days, pushing to -180m in increasingly
nasty sharp, tight passage. Odd how that narrow rift
quietened enthusiasm with such a superb way lying
ahead.
The rote on follws the now dry rift and includes
numerous small pitches and traverse rebelays. The water
is rejoined and the passage roof closes over to within
10m in places. The final pitches are in clean washed
round pots with a stream lip and more spray from above.
The walls are striated (ENTIRELY the wrong word,
typist) with the fossils of large molluscs (bivalves
about 30cm across). The rift must surely plunge on
down, grey and businesslike, and deep.
Here, on our third major rigging-in day, we placed a
final bolt ahead of last year's progress. We had
consolidated the route with fine rigging in preparation
for the pushing trips beyond. Each trip had been tiring
to the experienced members, now we were damp as well
and still the return to make. During the ascent one
wondered what one was doing here; (****, typist)
building character or the foundation of more good
stories ? Certainly we had provided the basis for a
memorable through trip as the next visit revealed. We
even lured the 115 contingent down to this spectacle of
fine cave and tasteful rigging and the through trip
gave us the opportunity to curl a lip over the 115
entrance series.
The last pitch drops into Junction Chamber. Turning
right one follows a gently descending stream. Soon the
way traverses the rift above the stream. Above (after
40m) a hole in the roof leads to a series of small and
dusty tubes. We are in a phreatic zone. After a few
bends the passage on closes down to a short flat out
crawl regaining the stream. More traversing on dusty
loose mud ledges in the passage roof gains a hole in
the roof and a series of phreatic tubes of railway
tunnel proportions. These tubes can be followed back to
the Junction Chamber entering about 10m above the
floor. Ahead they take a series of swooping inclines
punctuated by dramatic bends. This area was much
appreciated by the surveying party. A final incline to
a sharp left bend regains the stream in its rift and
reveals the sight, surprising to the the first
explorers, of a cairn.
From this lowest point of the connection there are two
routes on - one a traverse over the stream then a climb
over large boulders into a passage entering from the
left; the other a 0.75m hole at floor level to the left
of the start of the final incline. The two ways join in
an uphill sandy passage (1.5m high by 3m wide).
At some stage one should appreciate the significance
of the cairn - marking the limit of exploration of a
side line in 115. The eagerness to get out through 115
may have reduced interest in 41a, a shame as it was
only later that we looked at another exit from Junction
Chamber. Anyway, following the uphill passage one can
reflect on the peace of this area, the comfort and ease
of progress. A nice site for a bivvy if necessary.
Next a flat out crawl hardly slows progress into the
teeth of a healthy draft. Enthusiasm is rewarded by a
motorway (almost) sized passage (all things, the
educated mind realises, are relative. John Parker once
described a passage: "It's huge in places, one can
stand up even." This passage is really big). Now
turning right - who knows what lay to the left - A
further 90m of phreatic tube lead to the 115 main
stream passage.
Our next interest in 41a lay in derigging it. This
came after a suitable period for through trips both of
a caving and an enteric nature - which some of our
party combined. This was approached from 115 to provide
variety.
At Junction Chamber we noted the obvious and hitherto
ignored 15m climb leading left into a
choice of phreatic passages with further avens gaping
above - a really large Junctional Complex. To the right
after 50m the passage lead to a rift above a stream.
The other choice was a large phreatic tube (10m by 10m)
in which easy progress down a 30 degree slope gained
50m of depth. This scramble down boulders leads to a
cross-rift after about 150m. To the right a stream, to
the left a traverse after a short distance. It is
galling to find such a passage on your derigging trip,
but that's why the description stops here.
.blank
$e Steve Perry
[end PERRY]
[begin ----- RES -----]
.newpage
.display
$c Cambridge University Caving Club
.blank
$c 1981/82
.blank 5
_Committee_
.blank 2
.indent 6
.tabset 30 50
Dr J.C.D.Hickson $T Senior Treasurer $T Pembroke
Pete Lancaster $T President $T St John's
Dave Brindle $T Secretary $T Queens'
Terry Carroll $T Junior Treasurer $T Robinson
Charles Butcher $T Tackle Manager $T Corpus Christi
John Hibbert $T Librarian $T St John's
Judith Greaves $T Editor $T Clare
Mike Thomas $T $T Pembroke
Pat Trelogan $T $T CCAT
.indent 0
.blank 8
$c -oOo-
.blank 8
_Resident Members_
.blank
.tabset 18 36 55
Prof. J.F.Adams $T Trinity $T Julia Hawkins $T Selwyn
Pamela Abbot $T CCAT $T Caroline Hirons $T CCAT
Steve Ardron $T Churchill $T Alison Howett $T Trinity
Nigel Beaumont $T Queens' $T Mark Hunter $T Trinity
John Benjamin $T Trinity $T Tim King $T Trinity
Mark Bennett $T Corpus Christi $T Nick Laffoley $T St Catherine's
Sally Bliss $T CCAT $T Jintae Lee $T Darwin
Alison Borlase $T CCAT $T Steve Lloyd $T Robinson
Piete Brooks$T Trinity $T Fraser Macdonald$TCorpus Christi
Alison Carey $T Trinity Hall $T Cecilia Mottram $T CCAT
Steve Crawley $T St John's $T Steve Roberts $T Queens'
Ursula Collie $T St Catherine's $T Phil Sargent $T Robinson
Brian Derby $T Wolfson $T Andy Strangeways $T CCAT
Mark Davenport $T Sidney Sussex $T Rebecca Taylor $T Robinson
Andrew Dolby $T Caius $T Paul Thomas $T St John's
Steve Douglas $T St John's $T James Thompson $T Corpus Christi
Jeremy Drummond $T Queens' $T Linda Tyas $T Newnham
Iain Hamilton $T Robinson $T Paul Weaver $T Pembroke
.blank 6
$c _1982 Dinner Awards_
.blank
$c Golden Boot - Charles Butcher
$c Silver Slipper - Steve Perry
.endd
[end RES]
[begin ----- SURVEY -----]
.newpage
$c THE SURVEY
.BLANK 3
Surveying was not the strong point of this year's
expedition; it is hoped that we can do better next
year. The entrance series of 115 to the head of the
Ramp and 41 down to the pitch just above Junction
Chamber were surveyed to BCRA Grade 5 in 1980 and these
surveys have been published in Proc. UBSS vol.16(1).
115 from the ramp to the bottom of the pitches and the
connection were both surveyed to Grade 4
(the survey of the connection is reproduced here), making a
closed traverse with the surface survey between the
entrances. Unfortunately, although they closed
vertically to within 2m, the plan closure was wildly
out. It is thought that this might have been due to a
sticky compass on the 1980 survey. The length of
Pete's Purgatory was found to be 800m but no other
details were measured. Below this, the section of the
streamway from the inlet to the 'twelve foot climb'
(marked as c5) was surveyed to Grade 3 and this is
extrapolated downstream on the Grade 1 survey to give a
total depth of 680m plus or minus 40m. One point which
the elevation does not bring out is the way that
Stellerweg spirals round on itself with changes of
direction at the big pitch and at Junction Chamber.
The final direction of the streamway seems to be
northwest - heading back into the mountain and away
from the lake.
[end SURVEY]
[begin ----- TOTES -----]
.newpage
$c CAVE DEVELOPMENT IN THE TOTES GEBIRGE,AUSTRIA
.BLANK
INTRODUCTION
In reading through material related to this discourse I
discovered reference to the writings of Cvijic, who had
devoted considerable effort to the study of the
extensive karst region of Jugoslavia, drawing certain
conclusions as to the formation of that area, which I
incorporate here as background to the area of Austria
we have visited over the last few years considering its
apparent similarities.
The basis for Cvijic's cycle of erosion requires three
factors to be present: a thick and extensive mass of
limestone, accompanied by an underlying impermeable
rock for the initiation of a stream pattern.
"A study of the Totes Gebirge region (the Northern
Limestone Alps), shows that it is composed mainly of
Alpine Triassic and Jurassic (limestone),
nonconformably overlain by paralic and largely detrital
sediments of late Cretaceous and early Tertiary age
(the Gosau Beds found in small scattered
concentrations). The main elements of the Northern
Limestone Alps are massive carbonate series of the
Middle and Upper Triassic which may reach thicknesses
of over one kilometre. Below and between the massive
carbonate members are found thinly bedded series of
shales and evaporites." The requirements seem amply
fulfilled.
Cvijic's cycle then has three phases of development; in
Youth the upper impermeable layer is removed by streams
which then go underground through enlarged joints and
fissures, the drainage pattern disintegrates, streams
flow down normal valleys only to disappear into
solution holes at blind ends. In Late Maturity the
underground streams reach the impermeable underlying
stratum and cavern roofs collapse, the limestone cover
is reduced to a few outliers honeycombed with caves,
and is finally removed.
In the area of the Totes Gebirge the Youth phase has
been passed with almost no surface drainage now
apparent, although Sonnenstrahlhohle is an example of
the result of a previous surface stream pattern which
once flowed down a well defined valley into its
impressive entrance chamber (partially collapsed). The
surface is now generally composed of highly jointed
limestone with no soil to prevent water from passing
directly underground. How far the area has moved into
the Mature stage is the question of greatest interest
to the speleologist in the search for a deep system, a
question which will be answered by continued
exploration.
.ensure 5
.BLANK
DETAILED CONSIDERATION
In the two major systems discovered to date we have
encountered the two forms of cave entrance in the shaft
like solution hole of Eislufthohle, and the funnel-
shaped depression of Sonnenstrahlhohle (considered
likely to be the top entrance to the Stellerweg
system). In this context their relative positions on
the massif are interesting (see map and section).
Returning to Cvijic's erosion cycle, the original
surface stream pattern formed on an impermeable layer
has, in the case of Sonnenstrahlhohle, followed a
well-defined route towards the edge of the massif where
it has met a weak point in the limestone structure in
the form of a slip fault. The angle of the passage in
this cave and Stellerweg is similar (around 60 degrees from
the horizontal) and conforms to the notion of water
eroding along a line of least resistance, along this
fault.
In the case of Eislufhohle the situation is rather
different (refer to map, section and surveys). The
cave is situated roughly centrally in a depression
surrounded on three sides by steep slopes - a
depression of bare, heavily-jointed limestone. During
the ice age this high ground would have been covered
with a permanent ice field. In this situation the
erosional processes would be concentrated under the
snow allowing a depression to be formed, itself
enlarged into a more circular plan by the action of
ablation around its edges. As the depression begins to
form its development accelerates as snow becomes more
readily captured in it and its permanence becomes
enhanced as its bulk reduces the effects of temperature
fall. As opposed to the tremendous abrading of the
valley glaciers, solution becomes the dominant
erosional process as meltwaters flow under the ice
searching for the easiest way down to the water table.
Over long periods of time a cave system is formed
draining the plateau.
The position of the water table then begins to affect
the formation of the cave. As long as the water table
is beneath the surface, water will percolate down along
the easiest route, defined by the structure of the rock
itself. The actual form of the water table will itself
be dependent on the permeability of the rock - small
and irregular joints will form the water table into a
dome shape before the pressure of water is sufficient
to produce lateral movement; conversely, if the joints
have been enlarged by solution (i.e. a cave system
exists) the water will escape rapidly producing an
almost flat water table.
In Sonnenstrahlhohle there are four levels at which
horizontal cave development has occurred. The entrance
series results from the direct action of the surface
water in its original pre-glacial pattern flowing into
the fault and searching for the easiest way down. Down
in fact to the second level of horizontal activity at
around 1600 metres, at which level a large chamber with
side phreatic passages has formed. This is the same
level as the horizontal entrance series found in
Stellerweg (see surveys).
(It should be noted that the angle of the elevation for
the 113 survey does not demonstrate the extent of the
horizontal development. For a better picture see plan
of 113, Cambridge Underground 1981.)
The series of shafts that dissect the horizontal route
from above and continuing below, are the later routes
formed by water percolating down from the denuded
limestone surface to the much reduced water table below
these abandonded upper phreatic sections. By this
stage the surface drainage pattern has disappeared and
the cave has become a collector of water from numerous
sources rather than its original stream route. The
horizontal phreatic tube 'entrance' to Stellerweg is a
long-abandoned resurgence.
At 1600 metres, therefore, Sonnenstrahlhohle has become
a collector for waters searching for the water table
which, following the advance of the neighbouring valley
glacier, has been greatly lowered. The cave enters a
vertical phase, a large shaft enlarged by spray action,
until it reaches 1500 metres at a very jagged broken
floor with an immature stream outlet and a small
meandering phreatic tube opening once more onto an
enormous shaft section - this has no apparent
equivalent in Stellerweg (perhaps it can be attributed
to a localized change in the character of the rock).
The termination of the next vertical section is,
however, directly reflected in Stellerweg at 1400
metres. There is considerable horizontal development
in Stellerweg at this level which has not been explored
as yet, but suggests the possibility of a link with
Sonnenstrahlhohle because of the abandoned phreatic
development evident there also and an apparent
continuation of that section, unfortunately blocked by
boulders at present. The complex phreatic entrance
series to 115 is also located at this level. This is
obviously the level of the water table following the
first major invasion of ice in this area. The large,
now abandoned, phreatic cave passages developed during
a period of stability during and after the retreat of
the ice, emerging as tubes of varying sizes from the
valley sides. These holes are, however, now perched
several hundred metres up the sheer slopes. Following
a further advance of the ice which brought about a
further severe reduction of the valley floor and thus
the water table, in Stellerweg and 115 we find a
further phreatic level developed extensively at 1200
metres, at which a tortuous streamway meanders at a
gentle incline before descending in a further series of
pitches.
It is interesting to make a comparison between these
closely related caves, and it is also interesting to
note (see map, section and surveys) the apparent direct
relationship of the development of Eislufthohle to the
features of the caves at the edge of the massif some
two kilometres away to the north. It is clear that
Eislufthohle has a level of horizontal, if not
distinctly phreatic, development at around 1400 metres
- the same as in Stellerweg and Sonnenstrahlhohle. If
these levels defining stages of development of the
caves correspond directly, the resultant very flat
water table suggests a veritable network of caves
sending water rushing away to the edges of the
limestone. Further the level of the sump in
Eislufthohle compares with the phreatic level around
1200 metres in Stellerweg.
.ensure 5
.BLANK
CONCLUSIONS
The indications are that, considering its close
proximity and similarity of development to Stellerweg,
Sonnenstrahlhohle should continue to a depth
approaching that of Stellerweg and may well join it.
The doubts raised are whether the next section, the
first in fact in the cave, of wet and awkward streamway
will lead to the head of a shaft, as has already
happened in Stellerweg. Clearly the streamway does not
end immediately as it did not back up in its
constricted passage in flood conditions, and there was
still a strong draught at this level. With progress
down to this point being relatively straightforward, a
further visit seems imperative.
The question of Eislufthohle is an interesting one.
Depending on the point of view, two different
conclusions may be drawn: if the cave ends at 115O
metres, the water table is domed and there will be no
hope of deeper caves in that area. If the development
of the cave is directly related to the falls in the
water- table as seen in Stellerweg then the water table
is very flat and further depth should be possible, the
sump therefore being a perched one. Reference to the
other major discoveries in the area and the levels at
which they terminate (see surveys) suggests,
tantalisingly, that it is only a question of finding a
way through an apparent end, no matter how obscure (as
demonstrated on two occasions in Sonnenstrahlhohle).
Other routes in Eislufthohle have never been pushed to
a conclusion, but will anyone ever go back?
Any comment on the state of Stellerweg may seem
obvious, however it would seem likely that a further
2OO metres should be added to its depth (down to the
neighbouring lake level of 712 metres). The extent of
the phreatic development threatens to be vast, the
hillside quite honeycombed with cave passage (as
predicted in Cvijic's erosion cycle). If the water
table is flat, there should be passages heading away
into the mountain, carrying the waters from the
plateau.
Finally, the intriguing question of cave draughts
often raised its head in discussion in Austria. Almost
all the caves that we have explored in the area have
had powerful draughts emanating from the entrance;
Sonnenstrahlhohle, however, had a distinct inward
draught at the entrance, reverting to outward at around
the 16OO metre level. In winter, the cave apparently
sends clouds of snow billowing up from the entrance as
the relatively warm cave air rises (as substantiated by
our local contact on a ski trip). It would be expected
that the other entrances draught inwards in winter as
the air is drawn up through the cave system. The
obvious conclusion is that Sonnenstrahlhohle is the top
entrance to the whole system. If this is the case and
Sonnenstrahlhohle can be connected to the Stellerweg
system, there is the possibility of achieving a 1OOO
metre cave - unless fears of the cave joining
Nagelsteghohle prove justified.
.ensure 5
.BLANK
REFERENCES
Studies in Physical Geography, ed. K.J. Gregory, Dawson
Publishing Periglacial Processes and Environments, A.L.
Washburn Arnold The Geology of Western Europe, M.G.
Rutten, Elsevier Jurassic Environments, A. Hallam,
Cambridge Earth Science Series Geomorphology and
Climate, ed. E. Derbyshire, John Wiley and Sons
Weathering, Geomorphology, Text 2, C.D. Ollier
Structural Geomorphology, J. Tricart
Geomorphology, B.W. Sparks, Longman
For detailed surveys see Cambridge Underground from
1978 onwards, which will give more details of the caves
mentioned above as well as other smaller discoveries.
.blank 2
$e Tony Malcolm
[end TOTES]
[begin ----- VERCORS -----]
.newpage
$c EXPEDITION TO VERCORS 1981
It was all very well in theory, a three-week limestone
holiday to the French Vercors in August as key members
of Hull University's expedition to the Scialet de Combe
de Fer. Simon Farrow and I nodded approvingly as Iain
Crossley put us forward to HUSS in the New Inn as
experienced veterans of innumerable expeditions. And so
we were able to spot a good meal at a mile and a nasty
cave from ten.
In return HUSS assured us that Combe de Fer wasn't,
despite being deep and bristling with pitches. It had
been surveyed, scrappily, and HUSS planned to resurvey
it all, push all the extremities and hack away at the
200m drop to the resurgence at Goule Blanche. Four day
underground camps, prepacked man/cave/day food units,
the lot.
"No problem", declared Iain, examining his third beer
from under his sunhat, as we sat outside the cafe on
our way up to the campsite for the first time. "We'll
just mosey down this pot, whip through the surveying,
poke about a bit, then back to the food and drink. No
idea about Continental caving, these people".
Then we hit the campsite. First disaster - after an
hour's search, Iain and I could find no hot showers. Or
cold showers. Or water supply. Or any facilities at
all. Good God, here's a caver washing mud out of his
hair in a bucket! Simon alone was unpeturbed. For three
weeks he stoically caved in his pyjamas; or slept in
his playing-out clothes; or strolled around town in his
caving grots. Just a matter of semantics, clothes
sense.
Second disaster - behind the caver with his head in the
bucket lurked the Food and Operations Tent. Ah, la vie
gastronomique! Exotic salads, piquant sauces, rampant
cheeses, subtle wines...... What the hell's this? Boxes
of bran, nuts, seven varieties of lentils, baked beans,
more baked beans, tins of divers soya forgeries and
even a jar of vegetarian Bovril. In the corner an open
bottle of Algerian Chateau Chunder sulked rancidly. The
whole club was vegetarian! I began to whimper.
The worst disaster was the cave. Late the next day - it
was an hour's walk to the Combe de Fer entrance - we
found the HUSS vanguard party struggling back up the
300m rubble slope. They croaked a desperate tale of
muddy pitches, muddy rebelays, long tight muddy rifts,
loose muddy boulders and, further down, a flood-liable
and muddy streamway. We were appalled. Day two and two
of us decided it would be pushing the boat out too far
to have anything more to do with it. Simon did risk
three trips but wished he hadn't.
On day three the rest of HUSS arrived in the Grunge
Bus, four days after setting off. This detuned
abomination had once been a bread van, which CUMC its
then owners had taken to Afghanistan two engines ago.
The detune was a challenge to Iain on the rare
occasions he managed to collar the keys: he was
frequently admonished by the notorious X for pushing it
over 30 mph.
(X was clearly The Leader. A self-made man, I
concluded: no-one who knew what they were about could
have got so many parts in the wrong place. And a
natural leader - an NPC caver on holiday bumped into a
HUSS member he knew and asked innocently "Is he with
you, too?", seeing X for the first time. "No",
corrected X, puffing out what could have been his
chest, "He's with ME!" Later that evening, after a
hearty meal out, Simon quizzed that worthy on Becoming
a Leader. Well, Simon swayed about while two bottles of
wine conducted the interview. Wine in such a container
loses all subtlety and X became so stumped for an
answer that he retired to his tent to think of one. For
a whole day. After a fortnight of us he could be made
to crawl away from the circle of cheery laughter round
the night bonfire and lie in the grass, sobbing.)
So instead of Combe de Fer we occupied ourselves in the
many excellent tourist caves up and down the 500m deep
limestone gorge of the Bourne. The Grotte de Gournier,
a spectacular 100m swim across a deep blue entrance
lake to a climb up a 10m stal dome. Then 1.5km of dry
stomping, followed by an OFD type streamway which we
had time for only a little of. The Bournillon,
reputedly the largest entrance in Europe, normally dry
but with a hydroelectric station just for when it
floods! Inside, a huge and interminable stomping
passage 20m square containing not a single loose
object, everything moveable having been shot out of the
entrance in flood. An hour or so later Iain and I
concluded we weren't Big Passage Men after all and
scurried out, apparently just short of the end. Simon
had already decided he couldn't hold his breath above
an hour and lay outside watching the clouds.
Cuves de Sassenage, the Berger resurgence. A
fascinating showcave, superbly lit. We found out too
late about the leadership system for the extensive
interior. The Berger. Well, to the bottom of the first
pitch - we strolled over and polished it off one
afternoon. Plus various odds and ends: Grotte de Deux
Soeurs, Favot, La Glaciere, Grotte des Gaulois. We
would have done the Grotte Merveilleuse Superieure too,
if my trifling map reading error hadn't brought us to
within a few yards but six hundred feet above it.
In between, swimming, sunbathing and lots of superb
ridgewalking at 6-8000 feet, and of course our Ascent
of Mont Blanc. We did plan to climb the last 4000 feet
until we stepped out of the telepherique and were
boggled by it. Instead we took a telecabin over to the
Italian border, which it did in two dizzy half-mile
swoops dangling us hundreds of feet above rock and ice.
Quite the most frightening experience on offer in
Europe (barring Majorcan brothels).
Sadly all this ceaseless activity failed to impress
HUSS. Night after night we would toil back to the
campsite, reeking of wine and meat, to find them
huddled in the Veg Tent over a bowl of lentils and a
guttering candle (leather sandals in neat rows
outside), and try to cheer them up with tales of the
big world outside Combe de Fer, but nothing worked: not
even the 1040FR restaurant bill we brought back once
could raise their spirits. Eventually they stopped
talking to us altogether. Culture shock, no doubt.
So we never did find out what happened on our
expedition.
.blank
$e Andrew Nichols
[end VERCORS]
[begin ----- WALES -----]
.newpage
$c THE WELSH 3000'S
.blank
Long ago, walking used to be fun - a pleasant relief
from caving. However, EXCS can turn a gentle stroll
across the fells into a ferocious competition in which
all you see is the blur of a fast-changing view, seen
through bloodshot eyes as you struggle to keep up with
the hunched, crazed figure bounding through the bogs
ahead of you. It's then that you start to wonder if you
are really enjoying yourself.
The traditional Easter meet in North Wales was, as
usual, held in sunshine and shorts weather (traditional
means we went last year as well). Conditions looked
perfect for our planned assault on the Welsh 3000's. So
6 a.m. one April morning saw Tony, Andy and me starting
up Foel Fras, the first of the fourteen 3000 foot
peaks. Simon had volunteered to act as the support
party, plying us with lemonade and sticky cakes at the
roadside. Being the most experienced walker, he
couldn't imagine why anyone should want to "do" all the
peaks in one day. One or two, yes, but not fourteen.
No one else is in sight as we silently climb the first
long slope. There is just the view across to the coast,
the hillside stretching upwards and the morning sun. It
is all very simple. Just keep going for the next
fourteen hours - admire the view, stop to eat, and
another challenge conquered. We are soon on the summit
and you can see the walk ahead. The rounded Carnedds in
the foreground - they should be easy. Then the rocky
outline of Tryfan and the Glyders. Snowdon looks a long
way off. Surely we can't walk all that distance, but we
know we will.
The sun disappears in cloud and we are soon walking by
compass. Now there's only grey mist swirling around the
bogs. The summits come and go and look just like any
other lonely, foggy fell in the Dales. But just as we
start to worry about the cloud slowing us down, it all
clears. Below is Llyn Ogwen and a rapid descent sees us
joining the Easter crowds in the valley. We feel very
righteous as we pass the ice cream van and mingle with
the hordes trekking up Tryfan - they have only just
started but we have done a good day's walking already.
We insist on overtaking everyone. A brief halt on top,
sharing a boulder with one of the school parties and on
up Glyder Fach. Halfway now, and it feels like it. We
plod over the Glyders, following in the stream of
walkers. The final grind up Elidir Fawr nearly finishes
us. We sit and look and think.
It's not far now - just another ten miles and 3000
feet of ascent. Wouldn't it be better to lie here
admiring the view and then amble down the valley in
time for tea. Yes, says Tony. But Andy and I have no
will power. We run off down into Llanberis Pass, stride
up the road and along the path to Crib Goch. Then on to
Snowdon and it's all over. We have done the Welsh
3000's but we still don't know why. I wonder what
flower collecting is like ?
.blank
$e John Bowers
[end WALES]