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2798 lines
129 KiB
Plaintext
[begin ----- #115 -----]
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.newpage
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$c 115 - SCHNELLZUGHOHLE
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Schnellzughohle was discovered in 1980, a
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draughting, horizontal passage which ended in a choke
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(with some survey cotton found). This was dug and a
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complex abandoned system reached via a bolted climb.
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The limit of exploration was a ramp which led both up
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and down to undescended avens at -8Om. The size of
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passage and strength of breeze made a return very
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attractive.
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The initial rigging in and pushing trips did not
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follow the marathon-from-the-word-go pattern of the
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Stellerweg heroes; usually two 2-man teams would
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descend in relay each day. This avoided the withdrawal
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symptoms and 'driver of the year' risks associated with
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all night trips.
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Rigging in to the 198O limit took one trip, the old
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bolts were reused. An inlet above the ramp was also
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explored; a series of 8 cascades led up 3Om to a choke.
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At the aven a decision was made not to descend via the
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main shaft but to a rift to one side. This was
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primarily because a pile of loose boulders threatened
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to mangle anyone dangling below. Also, a peer into the
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depths showed that rebelaying would be necessary,
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giving no advantage over the rift. The ladder dropped
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via a series of muddy ledges (although there were no
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severe cam-slipping problems) into a small active
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streamway, just a tiny dribble when it wasn't raining.
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Two fine, clean-washed pitches of 19m and 14m followed,
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which were the scene of an exciting trip when it did
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rain once. A tremendous whooshing noise announced the
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arrival of quite a small flood pulse, which would have
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made the pitches miserable rather than impassable; the
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intrepid explorers were exiting too rapidly to actually
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prove this. The second wet pitch was followed by a
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damp 9m ladder climb to a 15m by 5m ledge. Here the
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water disappeared into boulders, and then a 34m
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freehang dropped into a chamber.
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This was big, 3Om by 3Om with the roof beyond stinky
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range. A food dump was established here, complete with
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stove in case the pitches ever did become impassable.
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A stream vanished into an uninviting slot in the floor.
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Upstream, 6Om of big phreatic tube connected with
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another aven. Downstream, a similar 5m diameter tube
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was reached by traversing up through boulders from the
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stream bed. It proved too difficult to follow the
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stream at high level (this had also been found out by a
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rather forlorn, green bat here found entombed).
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However, 5Om from the chamber the tube branched off
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into a phreatic maze. The draught was pursued to a
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second stream, and a small cairn built. This was later
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to be found by the Stellerweg team.
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Meanwhile the streamway was pushed. It meandered on
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and on for 800m, and required much shuffling and a
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couple of awkward traverses. An hour of this led to a
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more comfortable sized streamway (probably the
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Stellerweg water). This proceeded with a 7m lined
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climb to a sump.
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This was easily bypassed via a 3m diameter phreatic
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tube which emerged above the stream again. The
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discovery was celebrated by a severe attack of the
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Lurgi and an epic 11 hour exit, after which the narrow
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streamway was christened Pete's Purgatory. A ladder
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was rigged back to the stream, and the descent
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continued with increasing enthusiasm. The canyon was
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1.5-2m wide, too high to see the roof and getting
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bigger all the time. Fifty metres and a 5m ladder
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climb led to 5OOm of fine stream, which descended quite
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rapidly by numerous sporting cascades.
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A 5m pitch (the 'twelve foot climb') was reached and bolted when play was
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stopped again by Lurgi. The victim escaped this time,
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but his partner got lost near the entrance and had to
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be rescued the following morning. 5OOm after the short
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pitch came a 1Om wet pitch and then 3OOm more passage.
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In two places here, classic vadose canyon gave way to
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low, wet ramps with some grotting in boulders. A fine,
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free-hanging pitch of 10m then dropped into a dark
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pool. 15Om more stream, and a 15m pitch, broken by a
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ledge, was followed by a 4m roped climb. 70m of
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horizontal passage followed, with dismal pools leading
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to hopes of a sump; these were dashed by another pitch,
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a dry 15m free-hang. The streamway continued
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inexorably to yet another 1Om pitch, but a realistic
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decision / miserable witter was made and the derig
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commenced to the sump by-pass. This was completed in a
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mammoth 3-wave session, remarkable for feats of
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gluttony and nicotine consumption, and an attempt to
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wall in the consultant geologist and catering manager.
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Trips into the lower streamway were becoming quite
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serious, with hitch-free trips taking from 12-14 hours,
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typically adding just a couple of bolts. Flooding could
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be an extremely dangerous proposition: there is nowhere
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warm and dry to hide. However, it needs a good survey
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and the combined system is getting close enough to the
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7OOm mark to put a return next year very much on the
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cards.
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.blank
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$e Simon Kellet
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[end #115]
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[begin ----- AERW2 -----]
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.newpage
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$c MEXICO SPRING 1981
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Background :
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Readers of the caving press, especially Caving
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International, will no doubt be aware that great things are
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being discovered in Mexico, but are probably less aware of
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the great variety of the areas being explored. The following
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introduction is intended to place the Mexican discoveries in
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context as a background to the spring project in which I
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participated.
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Cave exploration has been going on for many years, in
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the main by US cavers, which led to the formation of an
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informal group called the Association for Mexican Cave
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Studies (AMCS) whose role now is to collect and publish
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information on the caves of Mexico and to coordinate trips
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to prevent duplication of effort. It is recommended that any
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group planning to travel to Mexico should be in contact with
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this group, based in Austin, Texas.
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As cavers explored into the karst of Mexico, it was
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natural that those regions nearest the main roads should be
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the first to come under scrutiny, and the earliest AMCS
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Bulletin "Caves of the Inter-American Highway" reflects
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this. A series of limestone mountain ranges along the El
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Abra reef trend :- the Sierra Madre Oriental were explored,
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the most promising of which were the Sierra de Guatemala
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south of Ciudad Victoria, the El Abra south of Ciudad Mante
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and the Xilitla plateau. The latter area contained the deep
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pits of Sotano de las Golondrinas and El Sotano - the
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largest free drop pit in the world.
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Further south, the spectacular karst plateau of Huautla
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de Jimenez was discovered, leading to the exploration of the
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deepest caves in the western hemisphere - Sotano del Rio
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Iglesia and Sotano de San Agustin. Trouble with the native
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population led to a self-imposed moratorium on exploration
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in the area for ten years. South West of Mexico City, a
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large area in Guerrero and Morelos contains such famous
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caves as Grutas de Cacahuamilpa.
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More recent explorations have penetrated further from
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the main highways both in the north and the south, and
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further exploration has continued in the other areas. To the
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east of Mexico city, the Cuetzalan area has yielded long
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river caves with huge passages, several streams converging
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to give Mexico's second longest system. Much further south,
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exploration in Chiapas, mainly by the Canadians (including
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many expatriot Brits) has been rewarded by such finds as
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Sumidero Yo Chib, at the time of its exploration probably
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the most spectacularly and dangerously wet cave in the
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world. In Huautla, the renewed exploration has found a
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series of deep caves, all close to connecting into one huge
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system. The first of the connections came when the very deep
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Li Nita was connected by diving to Sotano de San Agustin to
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yield a system 1220m deep. This area was also the scene of a
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very serious rescue when a Polish caver broke his back deep
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inside San Agustin. Further south still, expeditions have
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penetrated into Guatemala and Belize.
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In the north of the country, the northern end of the
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Sierra Madre Oriental was penetrated by long dirt roads, and
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when exploration of the area started, the rewards were
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considerable, leading to the discovery of the caves which
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were eventually to form La Sistema Purificacion, which is
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still being explored by an AMCS group under the direction of
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Peter Sprouse and Terri Treacy.
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La Sistema Purificacion - History of exploration :
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The cave is located in Ejido Conrado Castillo in the
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mountains north west of Ciudad Victoria, and was known to
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the local populace long before the arrival of American
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cavers. The "Historic Section" of Cueva del Brinco shows
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signs of a considerable history of investigation, so when
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members of the AMCS first arrived in the area in the early
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seventies, they were quickly directed to the entrance and
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the potential of the area was realised. On subsequent
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visits, they were shown a large, inaccessible cave entrance
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in a canyon headwall about three miles away and 850m lower.
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When the entrance was reached, the huge passages of Cueva de
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Infiernillo were seen for the first time and the dream of a
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connection was established.
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At the start of the spring trip of 1978, Cueva del
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Brinco had been surveyed to 6.5km long and 257m deep, while
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Infiernillo was 4.6km long. A third strongly draughting
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cave, Sumidero de Oyamel, had also been found the previous
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autumn. During the spring project, a huge trunk passage with
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a stream, The World Beyond, was found in Brinco which was
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heading away from Infiernillo, but after a mile or so, it
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abruptly turned about and dropped steeply. After the spring
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trip, Brinco was 9.2 km long and 382m deep, already a
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significant cave. Oyamel was just over 1 km and 125m deep.
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Exploration fever set in, with a return to Infiernillo
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in July (nominally the wet season) in which the cave was
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surveyed to 9 km, and passages were explored which had to be
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very close to Brinco. In again from the Brinco end, and
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flagging tape was found which could only have been placed by
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the Infiernillo crew - on July 13th, the connection was
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surveyed and Sistema Purificacion was born: 20.086 km long
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and 884m deep, the longest and deepest cave in Mexico.
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A trip in December saw the systems first accident, when
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a caver fell and broke his leg in the recently discovered
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Valhalla section of the cave, but a remarkably smooth rescue
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organised from the USA saw the injured man safe after three
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days in the cave. The spring project 1979 saw more surveying
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in the phreatic mazes of the "Confusion Tubes" area in
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Infiernillo and the discovery of Moria, an important lead
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toward a postulated "Great Western System". It also saw a 20
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hour through trip with Claude Chabert and Paul Courbon, who
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then dug out a new top entrance to the Valhalla region - the
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Entrada de los Franceses. At the end of the spring, the cave
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was almost 28 km long.
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Useful information was gathered on the system in flood
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when 19cm of rain fell in a storm in December, when the
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sumps at the bottom of the system were seen to be 64m above
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their dry season level. In Spring 1980, attention was
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returned to Oyamel, which was surveyed to 2.5 km and then
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connected in to the upstream section of The World Beyond. At
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the end of 1980, the system stood at 38km long and 895m deep
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- by far the longest, but no longer the deepest in Mexico.
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[end AERW2]
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[begin ----- AERW3 -----]
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.newpage
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$c SPRING PROJECT 1981
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From Ciudad Victoria we headed towards the mountains. Rounding a steep bend, a
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vista opened up to the right, of the Canyon Infiernillo , in the steep
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headwall of which is the bottom entrance to
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La Sistema Purifacacion. As darkness fell, we arrived at Conrado Castillo, which
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was to be our base for the next seven weeks.
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The first trip into the Sistema was via the Entrada de los Franceses,
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an entrance into the highest part of the system, Valhalla, a complex fossil
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phreatic maze in somewhat crumbly rock. The first part of the cave is
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generally dry, and we caved in jeans and shirt-sleeves down a series of low
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passages and then many climbs, always leading down over solutionally
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etched rock in weird forms. One or two parts of this area are quite
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narrow, and as we were carrying quite a bit of gear, our progress was not
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too fast in the warm cave ( generally about 15 degrees in the upper part of
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the system ). A change of character to firmer, darker limestone somewhat
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reminiscent of O.F.D. was closely followed by the sound of running water,
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and we soon emerged at roof level above a five metre climb into Valkyrie River
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a recently discovered stream passage, whose source was unknown and
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destination only conjectured.
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We unpacked gear and got changed into wetsuits in the roof passage and then
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climbed down into the stream. Upstream through beautiful blue dolly tubs
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and then a series of shallow lakes led to a wide sump pool held back by
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extensive gravel banks. Here Randy Rumer donned a mask and tried freediving
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with an electric lamp. The roof levelled off at about -2m in very clear
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water, but Randy needed a large rock in his wetsuit to go any further.
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A small bell about 2m in had no air and as the sump could be seen to go
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many metres in crystal clear visibility, he retreated. Don Coons dived a couple
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of times finding nothing new, but the visibility started to deteriorate,
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so we decided to head downstream to survey ingoing leads.
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Downstream from our entry point, deep canals in blue water with calcite encrustations
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made pleasant, if cool, going to a sump with a bypass. Shining lights underwater
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identified a probable freedive which would cut out the bypass, but it wasn't
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attempted. Instead, we split into two parties to survey. Peter and Terry went
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with Don Coons and Sheri Ensler to follow the main way, whilst Randy and
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myself with Del Holman and Jerry Atkinson set off into side leads. These
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unfortunately degenerated into very muddy grovels where surveying was very
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grotty, leading to the name 'Mud Point Mud Mud' and we were not too
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disappointed when all ways closed down or sumped. We retreated to the surface,
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emerging at 3.15a.m. after thirteen hours underground, whilst the other group
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had to give up in good,blowing cave, and surfaced a couple of hours later.
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Activity was now directed to a planned week long trip to camp 1 in Infernillo
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to explore leads in the lower part of the system. Since the entrance is halfway
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up a large cliff at the head of a canyon, about an hour and a half from the
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nearest road; and major leads are up to 3 miles inside the cave, camping is
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almost obligatory. A long trek down into the canyon led to the base of the cliff.
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Peter ascended to the cave and riged a pitch down to the arroyo to ascend
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and haul. It was during the hauling that Peter's pack broke loose and crashed
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down the tyrolean into a boulder: wiping out one set of surveying gear and
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all our water purifier. Once we were all assembled in the 20m high entrance,
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it was getting quite late, but it was only a half hour trek in huge passage
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to camp 1 in a side passage above a lage static sump.
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The first day from camp 1 established a general pattern as we split into
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three surveying groups working in different areas.The American style of exploring
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new caves is the only one possible in an area with so much open and going
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-so we started surveying into virgin passage, eventually extending this
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area down to the first running water found, at Gnome Springs.
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The second day out, we went into Moria, the westernmost area of the lower
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cave - near base level and with a powerfully draughting choke heading
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towards the postulated "Great Western System". Whilst Jerry placed a
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substantial charge on a selected boulder, I frantically fetched mud
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to pack it, and we soon had an impressive bomb ready to go. The
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satisfying bang put both our lights out, but once relit, we wasted little
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time in inspecting the damage - the fumes having already cleared in the
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draught. Several boulders no longer existed, and I was soon demonstrating
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the British liking for digging by trundling large amounts of decimated rock
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out of the choke, but after a couple of hours it became apparent that
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no further progress could be made without a proddling bar, so we retreated
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- digging could be quite frustrating at the rate of one bang per year.
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On the next day, a 'Glub Glub' trip was planned into Isopod river in which
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a small stream had developed into a canal downstream. This meant heading
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along the route towards the top of the system, climbing up into Confusion
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Tubes- where junctions abound in all directions. Emerging through Lakeland into
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the South Trunk, we trogged along for half an hour in a huge mega-trunk to
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a bouldery area which got quite thrutchy. We were distracted in the Breakdown
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Maze by a possible way on through the boulders which Peter thought might
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crossover into downstream Isopod river, and when Duwain and I opened up
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a route down to a deep blue canal we decided to survey it. This soon proved
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abortive in one direction due to low airspace, and the other way eventually
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led back to known passage, so we tried a dry route which turned out to be
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an alternative route through the Breakdown Maze back towards Infiernillo.
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On day four, Jerry and I planned to return to Gnome Springs with Don and
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Sheri, but when we got to Misty Borehole, we decided to look briefly at
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an unpushed climb at the end of this tube. Whilst Sheri and I formed an
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opinion that the climb was quite impossible, Don tried out a few moves and suddenly
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shot up the wall, into a hole and out at roof level, much to our surprise.
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He then traversed over the top and into going passage and vanished for
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some time, only to return with news of a major borehole. We hurriedly
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rigged a handline and ascended to start surveying. The rift above soon
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turned into a tube and then developed into something unusual for the
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cave - a classic keyhole passage some 2-5m deep below a 2m tube. There
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were lots of side leads, but the main way carried all the air, and we
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emerged into a sizeable tube. Unfortunately this didn't continue too
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far before a large flowstone blockage: but a side passage led to an
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area with cave ice pools and bacon rind stal. From where a beautiful
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flat flowstone floored tube ascended steeply to a series of climbs.
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Here we met a small stream depositing calcite which we thought could well feed
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Gnome Springs, but the water sank into a tiny vertical tube and our route was
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up a small waterfall into another tube almost blocked by flowstone. The water
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came from a small passage but the way continued to a deep rift in the floor
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which we traversed past a pom-pom stalactite to a climb down into an increasingly
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complex and muddy area. Here we ran out of time and after a short run ahead
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we headed back to camp 1,
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pausing only to name the area Ithilien. Back at camp 1 we found that the
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"40km" party had taken place on the assumption that we had bagged enough booty
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-but we had been so long that everyone had crashed out.
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Owing to lack of motivation and illness, day 5 was declared the last day of the
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camp, so we decided to get as far as possible into the cave in two groups-
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one finally getting into Isopod river and one to take photographs in the Netherhall
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- a very large chamber about two and a half miles into the system. Beyond the
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Breakdown Maze, the South Trunk continued very large again to turn off to the
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lower Isopod river where the wet team were getting changed. We left them and
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headed into the Monkey Walk - an awkward stretch of passage with low roof and
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bouldery floor, leading evenually to the Isopod river, a large passage with
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a small strem meandering between gravel banks, and containing colonies of
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troglobytic isopods like little piles of white rice in the stream, which gave
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the passage its name. By traversing the few pools which blocked the passage,
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we were able to reach the site of camp 2 on a shingle bank with dry gear and from
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here we started to climb up immediately to reach the Netherhall, which contains
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a 150m high boulder pile: like climbing Great Gable at night. After half an
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hour of upward slogging on scree, we reached the summit and spread out to get
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an idea of scale before spending the next five hours taking photographs
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.blank
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Brinco Camp 3
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The next major project was camp 3 - set up for the first time in the upper cave,
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about 350m below the Cueva del Brinco entrance and 3km inside the cave. As
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the entrance series of the upper cave is much smaller than Infiernillo, but also
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wet, we had to arrange for gear packs to split into smaller units and be
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completely waterproof. As this was a new camp, it was thought best to have a
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supply run to set the camp up, followed by a lighter trip to move in any gear
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which didn't make it first time.
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Despite its proximity to the fieldhouse, this was the first time I had been into
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Brinco, but with the heavy gear we were all moving slowly, so I
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had a reasonable chance to look around.
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The first part ( the Historic Section ) is roomy and dry with many dead formations
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We descended a fair way, mostly in steep passage, but with a few climbs, until
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we reached the Dressing Room. This is where the fun starts with a wet thrutch
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"The Chute" followed by a narrow fissure 'The Crack of Doom'. This was quite
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time consuming with large packs, but once through, progress in the Lunar Way
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was faster, through strenous, until another delay at Mud Ball Crawl. Beyond, the
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passage opened out into the Rio Verde, a steeply descending streamway with steep
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gours and deep green pools, leading pleasantly to Flowstone Falls, a 20m freeclimb
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which we however rigged with a line to facilitate descent with heavy packs. The
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falls drop straight into a swimming canal and further cascade before a series
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of squezes obstructs the way. Another steep climb led to the beginning of the
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canal- a low airspace wade in muddy water. This ended in a climb up and over
|
|
a barrier and through a lake to the Speedway bypass- a somewhat awkward passage
|
|
breaking out dramatically at the World Beyond.
|
|
|
|
The World Beyond is a major trunk passage carrying the largest stream in the
|
|
system directly away from the resurgence for almost two miles. The going varies
|
|
from deep swims of up to 100m to a meandering steam among gravel banks, to
|
|
climbs over large scale collapse. This ends abruptly where the stream, augmented
|
|
by a major inlet (possibly Valkyrie river), cuts down to the right to form the
|
|
Angel's Staircase, eventually sumping at -600m. The main way on to Infiernillo
|
|
and camp 3 is to the left starting at a series of steep climbs over rotting flowstone
|
|
with a major change of direction at a pitch. Shortly before this was the site of
|
|
camp 3 - a roomy chamber with a coarse gravel floor and a couple of deep pools.
|
|
Here we dumped the gear and had a rest before setting out for the surface.
|
|
|
|
It was 3 days before we set off for the real camp. The first 3 days underground
|
|
turned out to be relatively unproductive. On day 3 we reached a complex junction
|
|
area from where our route turned out to be a dead end. Returning to the junction
|
|
we followed footprints into a large maze area - Medus's Maze which descended
|
|
down the dip of a major joint to an area with attractive formations.
|
|
|
|
On day 4 we all worked around the maze, extending the area downwards until
|
|
stopped by a large phreatic lift going steeply up - The Wall, which proved rather
|
|
loose at the top. Below this however, we found yet another downward lead into
|
|
smaller passages but with a strong draught. This area, Yawndwanaland,
|
|
continually stepped north, then down dip, then south along the strike, then down
|
|
dip and so on, moving slowly west on balance, until at the end of the day, we
|
|
reached a steep climb down. Louise went to investigate, and found that it
|
|
dropped into a major south-north passage which must be by now both deeper
|
|
and further west than the main route to Infiernillo.
|
|
|
|
As this passage seemed to offer the major breakthrough needed to extend the
|
|
system at depth under the ridge to the south, where sinks lie up to 1600m
|
|
above the Infiernillo sumps, both parties were fielded into it the next day.
|
|
We elected to survey north while the others went south. Our lead, Death Coral
|
|
Rift, headed dead straight in a high rift floored with death coral - a sort of
|
|
muddy calcite encrustation that seems to grow in passage annually flooded
|
|
with turbid saturated water which drains slowly. We shot leg after leg, until
|
|
we came to a shattered chamber. Climbs led to more bouldery passage, still
|
|
heading north until we came to a conclusive, but draughting choke, apparently
|
|
close to the Netherhall. From here we headed back the 800m we had surveyed
|
|
to see how the others had got on. They had surveyed over 1200m in generally
|
|
large draughting passage heading south all the way. This passage was now
|
|
nearly as far south as the sothernmost part of the system. We returned to camp
|
|
elated after fourteen hours, and discussed stretching food supplies to allow
|
|
one survey team to carry on south. When Peter, Terri and Louise set off next
|
|
"morning", they quickly returned, having found that the system was in flood.
|
|
This meant that the World Beyond would be difficult, but more important ,the
|
|
canal might be sumped.Roy, Patty and I set off for the the surface immediately
|
|
while the others packed up their camp gear. As might be expected the return
|
|
was made somewhat hairy by the flood conditions. We were met by Jim Pisarowicz
|
|
just inside the entrance as we emerged after 10 hours caving. We crashed out
|
|
quickly in case we had to take a food stash in for the others as we were sure
|
|
the canal would soon sump behind us: but in fact the others came out about
|
|
three hours after us, having dumped some gear at the World Beyond. We learned
|
|
from Jim that almost four inches of rain had fallen in the previous three days
|
|
as the start of the wet season was approaching.
|
|
|
|
Whilst camp 3 was busily succeeding, Jim had not been idle, having spent the time
|
|
on surface prospecting on the ridge to the south. Of several holes he had
|
|
investigated, two looked particularly promising, situated above the area that the
|
|
new camp 3 passage was heading for, and we soon set off to investigate these.
|
|
The smaller pot, Pozo del Peso, choked at -36m, the deeper, Sotano de la Rama,
|
|
reached a choke at -140m. After this, Jim and Louise left, leaving just Peter
|
|
Terri and myself to spend the final week in sundry pursuits - retrieving the gear
|
|
from the World Beyond, surveying in some of the smaller local caves and surface
|
|
surveying before returning to the US.
|
|
|
|
The Spring Project was pretty successful, extending the system from 38km to
|
|
45.5km, closely challenging Easegill in the world length stakes. A lot of
|
|
extremely high quality caving was done and I would like to express my most
|
|
sincere thanks to Peter
|
|
and the Proyecto Espeleologico Purificacion for allowing me to join them in
|
|
1981. I hope to be able to return to assist in future years in this magnificent
|
|
system.
|
|
.blank
|
|
$e Andrew Waddington
|
|
[end AERW3]
|
|
[begin ----- CDG -----]
|
|
.newpage
|
|
$c CDG RECONNAISSANCE EXPEDITION TO GREECE
|
|
|
|
|
|
$C INTRODUCTION
|
|
|
|
Greece as a venue for a summer expedition was first
|
|
discussed on Cambridge University Caving Club's return
|
|
from Austria in 1980. Julian Griffiths fancied the
|
|
idea of sea, sun and sand, and finding Rob Shackleton
|
|
not averse to the idea, the nucleus of an expedition
|
|
was formed. As it turned out, this nucleus represented
|
|
the full expedition complement; so the beginning of
|
|
July 1981 saw the expedition Cortina heading south
|
|
packed full of diving gear.
|
|
|
|
The only firm thing we had in our minds before we went
|
|
out was that we wanted to go diving rather than normal
|
|
caving. Beyond that we had no clear idea of what to
|
|
expect. Neither of us had been diving abroad before
|
|
(except Ireland) and there is very little written in
|
|
English about caves in Greece, except for innumerable
|
|
articles on the Pindos Mountains. As we did not intend
|
|
to visit the Pindos, this was not much help. We decided
|
|
that it would be best to try and take in as many areas
|
|
as possible, stopping only when there was something of
|
|
particular interest or potential. That way, if we
|
|
wished to return, we would have first hand knowledge of
|
|
a number of areas, making it easier to make a choice of
|
|
an area to concentrate on. In the event this worked
|
|
very well. We saw a lot of Greece in the two weeks we
|
|
were there, though we spent at least half of that time
|
|
in the Mani. The Greek cavers we teamed up with there
|
|
were very helpful in this respect. One had done a
|
|
considerable amount of cave diving, not only in Greece
|
|
but also in Italy and Yugoslavia, and was able to guide
|
|
us towards promising diving sites.
|
|
|
|
Some of the sites are only accessible by dirt tracks
|
|
and hence a vehicle with some off-road capacity is
|
|
essential. We were quite happy to abandon the Cortina
|
|
in Athens and we spent most of the time travelling
|
|
around in a Volkswagen van which was more suited for
|
|
these purposes.
|
|
|
|
We did not take a compressor with us, something which
|
|
with hindsight we should have done. Diving shops with
|
|
compressors are few and far between, Athens and Patras
|
|
being the only ones we heard of. This leaves one trying
|
|
to beg the use of a privately owned compressor;
|
|
difficult unless one has contacts. One can rule out
|
|
hiring a compressor as the hire rates make this
|
|
prohibitively expensive - we were quoted twenty dollars
|
|
per day.
|
|
|
|
What we saw of the Greek caves was sufficient to
|
|
encourage us to return. In diving terms there is little
|
|
in this country to match the old, submerged phreatic
|
|
systems of the Mani and the potential of the rising at
|
|
Kephalari is phenomenal.
|
|
|
|
$C SUMMARY OF EXPLORATIONS
|
|
|
|
Our visit to Greece in July 1981 was largely
|
|
speculative in that we had few specific sites to
|
|
examine. The results described below outline the
|
|
observations we made in the areas we visited and
|
|
attempt to give some idea of the potential for cave
|
|
diving that exists in Greece. The country is composed
|
|
almost entirely of limestone and so we could obviously
|
|
visit only a small proportion of the areas, but what we
|
|
did see was sufficient to convince us that many
|
|
exciting discoveries are awaiting explorers and cave
|
|
divers will play a crucial role in future explorations.
|
|
|
|
The Greek Speleological Society is the focus of caving
|
|
activity and many cave explorations have been recorded
|
|
in their archives. Anyone wishing to cave in Greece is
|
|
strongly advised to contact the GSS before going, as
|
|
this may save a great deal of time which would
|
|
otherwise be wasted, particularly with regard to cave
|
|
location.
|
|
|
|
The explorations made during our visit are divided
|
|
quite neatly into areas north and south of Athens,
|
|
which was the base for operations. The area to the
|
|
south of Athens is divided from the rest of the
|
|
mainland by the Gulf of Corinth and is known as the
|
|
Peloponnesos. To the north of Athens lies the bulk of
|
|
the mainland, but our activities centred mainly on the
|
|
regions within striking distance of the capital.
|
|
|
|
$C A) NORTH OF ATHENS
|
|
|
|
1. Northern Greece
|
|
|
|
On our journey down to Greece we decided to travel
|
|
through the mountainous regions of the north rather
|
|
than via the coast road. Accordingly we drove south
|
|
from Bitola in Yugoslavia through Kozani in northern
|
|
Greece to join the coast road at Lansa and on our way
|
|
made occasional stops to look around. The area is
|
|
composed of thinly bedded limestone cut occasionally by
|
|
dry gorges which presumably carry flood water. No
|
|
surface drainage was apparent and the area may well
|
|
hold caves although the rock is not of a very
|
|
consistent quality. The area lacks the altitude and
|
|
depth of limestone of the Pindos range which lies to
|
|
the west, and these factors combined with the poor
|
|
quality of the rock make it doubtful whether the same
|
|
potential for fine cave systems exists in the Kozani
|
|
area. Other regions of Greece offer more obvious
|
|
rewards so it may be some years before the area is
|
|
adequately assessed.
|
|
|
|
2. Athens area
|
|
|
|
a. Voulegmene (Mount Hymetus)
|
|
|
|
Along the coast to the south east of Athens beyond the
|
|
suburb of Glyphada is the large resurgence in the sea
|
|
at Voulegmene. The coast road lies on the cliff top at
|
|
this point and inland of the road is a large collapse
|
|
floored by a lake of fresh water which is used as a
|
|
bathing area. The water which supplies this lake comes
|
|
from the Mount Hymetus area where several potholes have
|
|
been explored by the GSS. One of these potholes reaches
|
|
sea level at a sump and the presence of brackish water
|
|
indicates a connection with the Voulegmene Lake several
|
|
kilometres distant. It is evident that a large phreas
|
|
awaits discovery behind the lake.
|
|
|
|
Both the rising in the sea and the lake have been
|
|
dived. The tranquil lake surface conceals a deep rift
|
|
which has been dived, reputedly to -60m, to reveal a
|
|
complex of phreatic tunnels. In the sea a similar
|
|
complex of passages has been explored leading inland.
|
|
|
|
b. North West of Athens
|
|
|
|
The city of Athens is surrounded by three groups of
|
|
mountains. Mount Hymetus lies to the south east, Mount
|
|
Pendelikon to the north east and Mount P to the
|
|
north. The latter is composed of promising looking
|
|
limestone and we spent a day investigating it more
|
|
closely. A feature of the area is the deeply cut gorges
|
|
which presumably carry flood or melt water but remain
|
|
dry during normal weather. We explored one such gorge
|
|
near Fili, following upstream until we were stopped by
|
|
a 3m climb above a deep plunge pool infested by frogs.
|
|
At this point the walls of the gorge were over 1OOm
|
|
high, with the dry river bed at the bottom some 5m
|
|
wide, making it an impressive spectacle, Unfortunately
|
|
all we found in the way of caves was two small rock
|
|
shelters which looked promising from the road but led
|
|
nowhere. Several other holes can be seen from the road
|
|
but we did not have time to look at them as they were
|
|
quite a long way away over hostile looking ground.
|
|
These open caves have presumably been investigated by
|
|
the GSS but what we did establish was that the area has
|
|
no sizeable springs which makes it of litle interest to
|
|
the cave diver. It would seem that the percolation
|
|
drainage resurges in the sea, probably in the region of
|
|
Salamis.
|
|
|
|
3. Kallidromon Mountains.
|
|
|
|
This area is located south of Lamia on the north
|
|
coast of the Attica peninsula. We travelled through the
|
|
area and it is composed of good, solid limestone unlike
|
|
the central northern areas of the Greek mainland.
|
|
Just south of Lamia near the historic site of
|
|
Thermopylai, a deeply cut rock gorge was followed back
|
|
into the mountains. This contained a fast flowing
|
|
stream of considerable proportions considering that
|
|
there had been no rain for some months and all the
|
|
other stream beds in the area were dry. Due to lack of
|
|
sufficient time a conclusion was not reached, but the
|
|
cold temperature of the water indicates that it must
|
|
come from a cave or spring which may have potential for
|
|
exploration. This possibility should be further
|
|
investigated.
|
|
|
|
4. Mount Parnassos.
|
|
|
|
There are a number of risings around Delphi which is
|
|
to the south of Mount Parnassos but these were not
|
|
visited. We did visit a large spring at Lebadeia which
|
|
forms the source of drinking water for the town. The
|
|
rising lies beneath a cafe and has been gated which
|
|
makes exploration impossible. It is noteworthy however
|
|
that the rising carries a large flow and this augurs
|
|
well for the potential of the area. An examination of
|
|
the other springs in the area with a view to diving
|
|
could yield interesting results. The geomorphology of
|
|
this area has been discussed by previous investigators.
|
|
(Sweeting, M.)
|
|
|
|
5. Island of Evia.
|
|
|
|
Although an island, Evia has high mountain ranges
|
|
sloping steeply to the sea, and like most of the rest
|
|
of Greece appears to be solid limestone. According to
|
|
the Greek cavers the best area is to the south where
|
|
large fresh water springs have been discovered in the
|
|
sea. We wanted to visit an area to the south east of
|
|
Evia, along the coast of which Giorgos told us that he
|
|
had found some promising looking springs. Unfortunately
|
|
the route to the area involves 3Okm of rough tracks
|
|
which would have proved difficult for our vehicles. It
|
|
is possible to get a boat from the town of Karistos but
|
|
the "service" is infrequent, especially the return, and
|
|
so we decided not to risk getting stranded. A
|
|
Land-Rover could reach the area but a boat may be
|
|
necessary even then for the transportation of diving
|
|
equipment along the coast to the actual sites.
|
|
To the north of Kimi, a seaside resort on the east
|
|
coast of Evia, is a large range of mountains. We drove
|
|
across these on dirt roads to reach a small village on
|
|
the coast where we spent two days. Sea caves are quite
|
|
common but we only found one fresh water spring. This
|
|
was explored by free diving but appeared to be
|
|
hopelessly choked.
|
|
The highlight of our stay on Evia was without doubt a
|
|
visit to Agia Trias. This cave lies above the town of
|
|
Karistos at the southern tip of the island. A stream
|
|
emerges from a capped rising, but a small cave nearby
|
|
yields a 1Om climb down into the water a short distance
|
|
inside. Within 5Om of the entrance are a church and a
|
|
taverna which, as JTG pointed out, gives the diver a
|
|
choice of his method of calming his pre-dive nerves!
|
|
The cave is almost British in that for all its all too
|
|
short 5OOm length it comprises a lively and sporting
|
|
streamway. The difference is that the water is warm. At
|
|
the end of the open stream passage, which is developed
|
|
entirely along the strike, is a large, rather silty
|
|
sump pool. JTG kitted up whilst RJS, Giorgos and a
|
|
German girl Andrea, who had acompanied us on the trip
|
|
took photographs of him. The sump proved to be only 3Om
|
|
long with a maximum depth of 3m and although low in
|
|
places it is easy with 1274 litres of air. JTG surfaced
|
|
in a large continuation of the streamway, and after
|
|
dekitting explored 15Om of passage to a sizeable
|
|
chamber where the stream cascaded in from an opening
|
|
1Om up. The explorer climbed to within 2m of the top
|
|
but the last bit was tricky and so, having noted that
|
|
the passage at the top appeared to be wide open, a
|
|
return was made. The journey out was punctuated by
|
|
stops for photographs with RJS being persuaded to stand
|
|
beneath waterfalls, and in pools neck deep for the
|
|
benefit of the cameras.
|
|
The lack of surface drainage in the mountains above
|
|
Karistos suggests that a sizeable percolation network
|
|
may lie beyond the climb. During the trip into the cave
|
|
however, twigs were found above one of the plunge
|
|
pools. Since they were found above normal water level
|
|
it is probable that winter flood water brought them
|
|
down. This find, coupled with coarse sand not normally
|
|
found in percolation caves suggests that the system may
|
|
be fed by flood sink holes which may provide upper
|
|
entrances.
|
|
|
|
$C B). SOUTH OF ATHENS
|
|
|
|
During our stay in Greece we spent a week in the areas
|
|
to the south of Athens, most of this time being devoted
|
|
to the caves of the Mani peninsula in the extreme
|
|
south. The Peloponnesos holds great caving potential
|
|
throughout its area and on our journey back from the
|
|
south we visited the region around Tripolis where an
|
|
extensive drainage system has been shown to exist.
|
|
|
|
1. Mani Peninsula.
|
|
|
|
This area is located immediately to the south east of
|
|
the town of Kalamata in the southern Peloponnesos, and
|
|
amongst its fine caves is the famous show cave of
|
|
Pyrgos Dyros. The caves in this area are all very old
|
|
phreatic tunnels which collect water by percolation and
|
|
resurge in the sea. It is evident that they were
|
|
formed before the last ice age, and during the ice age
|
|
when the level of the Mediterranean was some 100m lower
|
|
the it is today, the passages were abandoned allowing
|
|
the formation of spectacular calcite deposits. The
|
|
post glacial rise in the sea level has re-flooded many
|
|
of the tunnels and the abundance of calcite formations
|
|
is a feature of the submerged routes.
|
|
|
|
The best method for finding cave entrances in this area
|
|
is to search the coastline for fresh water springs
|
|
which are easily noticeable as patches of cold water in
|
|
the warm sea. Also the area in which the fresh water
|
|
mixes with the salt water is characterised by an opaque
|
|
quality caused by the differing refractive indices of
|
|
the two mixing fluids. Occasionally these springs have
|
|
associated dry caves in the cliffs above, which allow
|
|
access to the phreatic tunnels inside. Searching the
|
|
mountains set back from the coast for potholes would
|
|
seem to be a futile exercise since there is no surface
|
|
drainage and any potholes which might exist would
|
|
almost always be choked. The region is also very
|
|
hostile to the explorer being very hot and thickly clad
|
|
in low thorny bushes which make walking a slow and
|
|
painful process.
|
|
|
|
At Pyrgos Dyros the rise in the sea has flooded the
|
|
cave to within a few feet of the roof and the tourists
|
|
are guided round in punts which are propelled by
|
|
pushing on the roof! We visited the show cave, which
|
|
is a must for anyone spending any time in the area ,
|
|
and were amazed at the profusion of the stalactites.
|
|
It certainly gave us the idea of the potential of the
|
|
area and fired our enthusiasm for exploration.
|
|
Unfortunately diving is permitted only by special
|
|
arrangement since archeological remains have been found
|
|
in the cave. Another site along the coast has been
|
|
dived by Greek and Italian divers in a large passage to
|
|
a complex boulder choke which corresponds with a
|
|
similar feature in a cave inland. It is very likely
|
|
that there will be other caves to be found in the area
|
|
which will follow a similar pattern of development,
|
|
although it is unlikely that the level of the sea will
|
|
give a repeat of the amazing situation at Dyros.
|
|
During our visit we explored two cave systems both of
|
|
which resurge in the sea.
|
|
|
|
(a). Cave of Selinitsa.
|
|
|
|
This is an extensive cave system situated on the west
|
|
coast of the peninsula just south of the small seaside
|
|
town of Selinitsa. There are in fact three caves in
|
|
close proximity to each other. Firstly, a large fresh
|
|
water spring in the sea called the Spring of Dracos
|
|
(spring of the dragon), secondly, a small cave with
|
|
several entrances the most accessible of which is close
|
|
to sea level, and lastly the main entrance to the cave
|
|
of Selinitsa which lies some 10m above sea level
|
|
overlooking a nudist bathing area which makes for very
|
|
interesting scenery whilst lurking out of site in the
|
|
entrance.
|
|
|
|
The Spring of Dracos was reached by a swim along the
|
|
coastline in full kit which was quite a bizarre
|
|
experience. The rising is noticeable by the quantities
|
|
of cold water issuing, and beneath an impressive cliff
|
|
are two large entrances below water level. RJS dived
|
|
first using 1274ls and 425ls whilst JTG sat waiting
|
|
with Giorgos on a rather surf swept ledge. The line
|
|
was belayed at a depth of 10m and RJS explored the left
|
|
hand entrance which was an impressive 5m by 8m arch .
|
|
After only 15m a lake chamber was entered and the diver
|
|
could look back through the two entrances into the sea
|
|
beyond. Above water the chamber was 10m high and the
|
|
water was about 8m deep with one small area where one
|
|
could stand chest deep and look about. Beyond the lake
|
|
which is some 25m in diameter the large passage was
|
|
followed at 6m depth for 20m to a narrow rift partially
|
|
blocked with calcite. Unable to see anything more
|
|
attractive the diver belayed the line and returned.
|
|
JTG and RJS then dived back to the lake together and
|
|
JTG examined the rift. The main source of fresh water
|
|
was found to be a small passage to the right which was
|
|
of small dimension with a strong current and was
|
|
explored for a few metres before a return was deemed
|
|
prudent. One could also surface in a very small
|
|
airbell at the top of the rift where water entered down
|
|
a calcite slope . After a few minutes the eyes became
|
|
accustomed to the dark and the whole cave can be
|
|
explored without the need for artificial lights. The
|
|
total length is 60m and from the extreme limit a clear
|
|
view out of the entrance is possible. JTG climbed out
|
|
of the water in the lake chamber but no dry
|
|
continuation could be found. Difficulty was experienced
|
|
in kitting up again out of depth in the surging water
|
|
of the main chamber.
|
|
|
|
The main Cave of Selinitsa contains some 4km of large
|
|
phreatic tunnels including an enormous chamber floored
|
|
by breakdown. The cave has been explored and surveyed
|
|
by the GSS, although it is clear that much remains to
|
|
be found here. The cave is well decorated but
|
|
unfortunately vandals have plundered and spoilt many of
|
|
the beautiful crystal deposits. After 1km of easy
|
|
walking passage a network of smaller passages is
|
|
reached and it is here that a short ladder pitch drops
|
|
into a large and inviting sump pool with water that is
|
|
slightly brackish indicating a connection with the sea.
|
|
RJS dived this heading in an upstream direction
|
|
indicated by the small visible movement of water. A
|
|
line was already in position and this was followed
|
|
until it ended after 50m. The passage up to that point
|
|
is a large tunnel about 5m wide and 3m high with small
|
|
patches of silt on the floor. An ascent can be made
|
|
after 20m to a small lake chamber which JTG reached via
|
|
an alternative overland route. For divers however, it
|
|
is easier to start at the bottom of the pitch rather
|
|
than drag the gear to the second sump pool. From the
|
|
end of the previous dive RJS laid 55m of new line in an
|
|
easy passage gradually deepening to 12m with visibility
|
|
at least 20m, i.e. as far as aquaflash torches could
|
|
penetrate. At several points there were underwater
|
|
stalactites and stalagmites which came as quite a
|
|
surprise and gave the diver a rather eerie feeling. At
|
|
the end a large flooded chamber was reached and the
|
|
depth appeared to shelve off steeply. Mindful of his
|
|
third margin, since he was only using 1274l and 425l
|
|
the diver was obliged to return.
|
|
|
|
Several days later JTG, eager to see for himself the
|
|
delights of the sump that RJS had been going on about
|
|
so rapturously, got his chance for a dive. Wearing
|
|
twin 1274ls he laid 75m of line beyond the entry to the
|
|
flooded chamber reaching a maximum depth of 17m and
|
|
ending at 8m depth with the continuation large and
|
|
inviting. The formations in this section are rather
|
|
good including a calcite cascade dotted with
|
|
stalagmites at 15m depth. Diving immediatley on JTG's
|
|
return RJS made a further 20m of progress to a deep
|
|
flooded pot, the bottom of which could not be seen.
|
|
Descending slowly, a large gallery was noted leading
|
|
off at 12m depth. This seemed a more attractive
|
|
prospect than the depths below and so it was followed
|
|
for 10m to a junction with two continuations leading
|
|
downwards. This time the bottom could be seen below and
|
|
the diver estimated this to be a depth of 20m. Already
|
|
overweight at 15m and having difficulty with the twin
|
|
1557ls RJS decided to return at this point and so the
|
|
line was belayed at the junction. Total length 210m
|
|
and the prospect of much more to come!
|
|
|
|
Having arrived back at base with air to spare RJS
|
|
examined the downstream continuation to retrieve a
|
|
cylinder boot lost on the earlier trip. The passage
|
|
was found to be of similar dimensions to the upstream
|
|
passage, and shelved off to 10m depth in a silt floored
|
|
tube. The line was tied off after a further 15m and
|
|
the wayward boot was recovered. According to the GSS
|
|
survey the sump pool lies 700m from its assumed rising
|
|
at the Spring of Dracos, and the prospect of diving
|
|
from here out into the sea is quite exciting, although
|
|
it would appear to involve some small passage in the
|
|
vicinity of the resugance as the discoveries detailed
|
|
above have shown.
|
|
|
|
The small cave with several entrances was examined via
|
|
the low entrance near sea level and was found to
|
|
contain an interesting freedive out into the sea. The
|
|
obvious continuation quickly chokes and is probably
|
|
associated with the main cave above and would appear to
|
|
have little promise.
|
|
|
|
(b). Stradiotis Cave
|
|
|
|
This cave is situated some 30m above sea level on the
|
|
eastern coast of the Mani peninsula close to the small
|
|
village of Floiuchori. Our interest was in the diving
|
|
potential of a rising in the sea below the cave.
|
|
Giorgos chatted up a local fisherman who kindly
|
|
consented to take us to the rising in his boat. JTG
|
|
leapt over the side with mask, fins and snorkel, and
|
|
examined the rising which was found to be a slot at 3m
|
|
depth with strong current emerging. The rising was
|
|
diveable but of small dimensions so we decided to
|
|
examine the main cave in the hope that the river could
|
|
be gained from inside as at Selinitsa. Searching back
|
|
along the coastline to Floiuchori, JTG free dived
|
|
through to a large lake at the entrance to what seemed
|
|
to be a cave. At the far end a dry passage could be
|
|
seen but without a light could not be entered. This
|
|
may be associated with a hole in the cliffs above which
|
|
we came across on a walk over to the main Stradiotis
|
|
Cave.
|
|
|
|
The dry cave was found to be infested with spiders and
|
|
bats and having spent the best part of an hour
|
|
slithering about in the detritus we decided there was
|
|
no negotiable way on. Lacking adequate supplies of air
|
|
we decided to use our limited reserves on other sites.
|
|
Any future divers in the area should note that it is
|
|
desirable to use a boat to reach the rising as the
|
|
coastline at this point is clad with thickly packed
|
|
thorny bushes which make walking unpleasant. They
|
|
should also note that the dirt track stops about 1km
|
|
short of Floiuchori. The rest is walking through olive
|
|
groves.
|
|
|
|
2. Tripolis Region.
|
|
|
|
On our way back to Athens after our visit to the Mani
|
|
peninsula we visited a resurgence at he village of
|
|
Kephalari located south east of Tripolis which is in
|
|
central Peloponesos. The spring is associated with a
|
|
large rising in the sea at the town of Leonidion on the
|
|
east coast of Poloponnesos in the Gulf of Argos .
|
|
Sinks in the mountains behind Tripolis over 30km away
|
|
have been dye tested by the GSS and shown to emerge at
|
|
Kephalari and later at Leonidion. The rising in the sea
|
|
is so powerful that the Greeks have built a sea wall
|
|
round it and run fresh water back inland to irrigate
|
|
their fields. Prior to this construction the rising
|
|
was explored by Italian and Greek divers for only a
|
|
short distance, the entrance being at a depth of 30m
|
|
and the passage continuing open beyond the limit of
|
|
exporation at -40m. The spring at Kelphalari is itself
|
|
a very powerful rising and even in the height of summer
|
|
looks to carry about double the flow of Brants Gill in
|
|
Ribbleshead. The source of the water is beneath the
|
|
foundations of a church and has been dived for 100m or
|
|
thereabouts to emerge in a large submerged passage
|
|
after passing beneath the crypt amongst some very
|
|
dangerous poised stonework. When we visited the spring
|
|
the water was distinctly cloudy and we did not dive
|
|
because of lack of adequate air supplies. The rising
|
|
is easy to reach by road and the enormous potential of
|
|
the site which has been demonstrated by the dye tests
|
|
makes this site an excellent diving prospect. As with
|
|
all good Greek caves there is a taverna within 100m of
|
|
the diving site.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
$C EQUIPMENT AND TECHNIQUES
|
|
|
|
|
|
Both divers used conventional wetsuits and found these
|
|
to be adequate, in fact the temperature of the water
|
|
was such that no neoprene gloves were worn. The air
|
|
temperature in the caves was also high and where a
|
|
carry of some distance to the sump was involved it was
|
|
more comfortable to change into wetsuits at the sump,
|
|
swimming trunks and a tee-shirt sufficing for the rest
|
|
of the cave.
|
|
|
|
Underwater the main problem was one of buoyancy. The
|
|
use of large tanks over long distances necessitates
|
|
neutral buoyancy at all depths. If this is not
|
|
attained too much effort and air is expended in moving
|
|
along the passage and the visibility can easily be
|
|
ruined by contact with either the ceiling or the floor.
|
|
The best method of achieving this would appear to be by
|
|
means of a life jacket, such as the Fenzy, or a special
|
|
buoyancy bag strapped to the chest such as the American
|
|
cave divers. The use of such a jacket is also
|
|
invaluable when the dive starts in the sea. Swimming
|
|
to such dives can be very tiring and incorrect
|
|
weighting only aggravates this problem.
|
|
|
|
Visibility might have been thought to be the least of
|
|
problems in such sumps. However because it was so good
|
|
it was worth trying to preserve it and one can
|
|
understand why the Americans go to such great lengths
|
|
to avoid stirring up silt. Correct weighting
|
|
facilitates this, but some things are unavoidable. In
|
|
the cave of Selinitsa there was a layer of silt on the
|
|
ceiling which was easily disturbed by one's air bubbles
|
|
and descended like a muddy snow shower.
|
|
|
|
4mm orange sinking line was used, 150m being the
|
|
maximum reeled onto a line reel at one time. Because
|
|
the sumps are so easy (in terms of size and visibility)
|
|
there is a great temptation to go what might be
|
|
considered too far and it is possible that this is an
|
|
important factor underlying accidents in such sumps,
|
|
though no study has been made of this. Certainly 150m
|
|
seems a safe limit to the amount of passage that can be
|
|
explored while retaining a good knowledge of the route
|
|
for the return journey. Naturally this limit will
|
|
depend critically on the diver and the nature of the
|
|
sump. One useful idea gleaned from the length of line
|
|
that had been laid in the Cave of Selinitsa was the use
|
|
of loops of elastic or inner tube to attach the line to
|
|
boulders and does not entail the extra weight (and
|
|
expense) involved when lead weights are used to
|
|
position the line.
|
|
|
|
Whilst talking to a Greek cave diver he expressed his
|
|
concern that we did not dive in pairs. The English
|
|
method of training seems to emphasise the self reliance
|
|
of a diver and indeed in a lot of sumps in the UK,
|
|
diving in pairs is just not practical. In larger sumps
|
|
diving in pairs is only of use if one can actually help
|
|
the other in difficulties. If the latter is
|
|
encountering problems with his air supply this can
|
|
normally only be done if one is using an extended low
|
|
pressure hose, at least with any comfort. Another
|
|
possibility is that it may be possible to help a diver
|
|
ensnared in the line. To weigh up against these though
|
|
is that one may just not have the air reserves to help
|
|
the other diver and, depending on the reaction of the
|
|
other diver, this can be extremely dangerous. Also a
|
|
diver entangled in the line may be forced to cut the
|
|
line with another diver further into the sump. If the
|
|
visibility has been stirred up as well this can result
|
|
in serious problems for the second diver. In the event
|
|
the divers stuck to what they were used to, that is
|
|
diving independently.
|
|
|
|
Finally a word on back mounted cylinders. There seems
|
|
to be no justification for using these rather than side
|
|
mounted cylinders even in the largest sumps. It is
|
|
possible to carry as much air round one's waist as on
|
|
one's back, though it has to be admitted that there are
|
|
times when both have to be used. The main disadvantage
|
|
of back mounted cylinders is that their valves are very
|
|
exposed and it is often not possible to reach them to
|
|
turn them off. Trying to regulate the flow of air from
|
|
the back mounted cylinders by turning it on and off
|
|
(for whatever reason) is extremely difficult. The only
|
|
minor problem with side mounted cylinders would seem to
|
|
be the backache experienced when carrying many
|
|
cylinders.
|
|
|
|
In conclusion cave divers in the UK seem to take pride
|
|
in the fact that they do things differently because
|
|
their sumps are different. However, the sumps are not
|
|
always so different and in many respects they have a
|
|
lot to learn from their fellow divers abroad, but also
|
|
many of the techniques used could be usefully adopted
|
|
for use in the UK. Likewise we do not think that
|
|
foreign divers always get it right.
|
|
|
|
|
|
$C CONCLUSIONS
|
|
|
|
Although we were not able to visit many of the
|
|
promising regions, what we saw of Greece was sufficient
|
|
to convince us that there is a great deal of potential
|
|
for new cave exploration.
|
|
Moreover, the development of the cave systems is such
|
|
that diving may be the only way to gain access to the
|
|
percolation systems which must lie behind the coastline
|
|
resurgences. We feel sufficiently enthusiastic about
|
|
the possibilities to plan a return to the sites we
|
|
visited in 1981 to explore further. The following
|
|
would be a provisional list of specific aims for 1982:
|
|
|
|
1. To continue the exploration of Agia Trias on the
|
|
island of Evia and to produce an up to date survey.
|
|
|
|
2. To continue exploration of the sumps in Cave of
|
|
Selinitsa in the upstream direction, where the survey
|
|
indicates that a further 100m of progress would take
|
|
the submerged passages beyond the limit so far reached
|
|
in the dry galleries. This effort might usefully be
|
|
combined with a party working in the fossil levels
|
|
where we feel there is much potential. A subsidiary
|
|
objective would be to further explore the downstream
|
|
sump leading towards the Spring of Dracos.
|
|
|
|
3. To begin exploration at the Kephalari rising by
|
|
repeating the work done by the Italian and Greek
|
|
divers, and if possible to explore beyond the limit.
|
|
|
|
The main limitations encountered on our 1981 expedition
|
|
were lack of sufficient time and shortage of air. The
|
|
reason for the lack of time was that we had to look at
|
|
as many sites as we could in the time available to us
|
|
and so we were not able to stay at any one site. Now
|
|
that we have specific projects to pursue we should be
|
|
able to plan our time more precisely. With regard to
|
|
the problem of air, it will be necessary to take a
|
|
portable compressor with us in 1982. The only filling
|
|
stations are in Athens and in Patras, which are so far
|
|
from the areas of interest as to rule out the
|
|
possibility of using them on a regular basis. It is
|
|
not practical to carry a sufficient number of charged
|
|
cylinders to enable a sustained exploration at a remote
|
|
site to be carried out. There is also the safety
|
|
factor. During our visit in 1981 we were always
|
|
careful to allow adequate backup of equipment and air
|
|
should a diver get into difficulties. For a more
|
|
concerted exploration effort probably involving more
|
|
divers, local filling facilities will be essential.
|
|
|
|
In conclusion it can be said that our initial
|
|
expedition to Greece has confirmed our belief that the
|
|
country holds good potential for cave diving, and it is
|
|
well worth a more serious and carefully planned
|
|
exploration effort. The 1981 trip has laid the basis
|
|
for further work at several sites, and we have
|
|
developed useful contacts within the Greek
|
|
Speleological Society. We are confident that a return
|
|
visit in 1982 can build on this foundation and further
|
|
add to our knowledge of cave development in this
|
|
important and interesting area.
|
|
|
|
|
|
$C BUREAUCRACY.
|
|
|
|
There are certain rules and regulations governing
|
|
caving in Greece, primarily designed to protect the
|
|
country's archaeological and natural heritage.
|
|
Generally the authorities take a reasonably relaxed
|
|
attitude to their enforcement, but if there is any
|
|
doubt regarding the sites being visited the Greek
|
|
Speleological Society (GSS) should be contacted with a
|
|
view to obtaining the necessary clearances. In any
|
|
event it may be better contacting the GSS outlining the
|
|
areas one wishes to visit and the aims of the
|
|
expedition in order to identify the potential problems
|
|
before one gets there.
|
|
|
|
The GSS acts as the governing body for caving in
|
|
Greece. It carries out a program of collaborations
|
|
with foreign clubs, but this does not prevent foreign
|
|
clubs organising their own expeditions. Out of
|
|
courtesy, and to avoid duplication of work, the GSS
|
|
should be informed of any finds.
|
|
|
|
The GSS meets on Wednesday evenings in Athens and their
|
|
address is as follows:-
|
|
|
|
$C ELLINIKI SPILAILOGIKI ETAIRIA
|
|
|
|
$C MANTZAROU II
|
|
|
|
$C ATHENS
|
|
|
|
$C GREECE
|
|
|
|
Official looking notepaper helps when corresponding
|
|
with them. Many of them speak fluent English so
|
|
inability to write in Greek is no handicap.
|
|
|
|
|
|
$C ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS.
|
|
|
|
We would like to thank Nikos Tsimsilis, Giorgos
|
|
Abagianos and the "other" Nikos , all the members of
|
|
the Greek Speleological Society, for the help they
|
|
offered us in locating and diving suitable sites, and
|
|
for the hectic social life they arranged! We would
|
|
also like to thank Nick and Sally Reckert, and Katriona
|
|
and Taki Synotis for the hospitality they provided in
|
|
Athens and the help they gave us in organising the
|
|
expedition.
|
|
.blank
|
|
$e Julian Griffiths
|
|
|
|
[end CDG]
|
|
[begin ----- DOUG -----]
|
|
.newpage
|
|
$c SUPPORT YOUR CRUTCH!
|
|
|
|
$c The Buttockhugger Sitsling
|
|
|
|
Introduction and description
|
|
|
|
This article describes how to construct a sitsling for SRT use, which,
|
|
whilst not only one of the most comfortable things you've ever strapped around
|
|
your buttocks is also sparing on the old green and crinklies.
|
|
|
|
The design is based on an obscure make of French baudrier which I picked up
|
|
in Gay Paree and caved happily on for several years. Recently I became rather
|
|
uneasy with the thin, rusty bits of wire which did most of the load carrying
|
|
so I attempted to reconstruct it using sturdy British (hooray) components.
|
|
The results were very successful and are described below.
|
|
|
|
The major feature of the Buttockhugger is that it consists of just one piece
|
|
of tape threaded in intricate patterns through various buckles. There is no
|
|
stitching, there are no knots and F= u N is all that stops you from
|
|
descending the quickest way. This has immense advantages: for a start it enables
|
|
you to build a sitsling safely yourself from two-inch tape and when the tape
|
|
wears out you just buy another 3.5m and rethread it; an immense economy over
|
|
buying a whole new unit. It's relatively cheap, mine cost just under nine
|
|
pounds, and it even seems to be safe.
|
|
.BLANK
|
|
Construction
|
|
|
|
The worst thing about the Buttockhugger is building it. Working out how to
|
|
thread it makes solving a cube look simple. The second worst thing is working
|
|
out how to put it on, but we'll come to that later.
|
|
.BLANK
|
|
You will require the following:
|
|
.DISPLAY
|
|
|
|
No. required Item Ref. on figures 1 and 2
|
|
|
|
2 Belay 'D' ring 1
|
|
2 Black coated bent 3 bar buckle 2
|
|
3 Flat plated steel 3 bar buckle 3
|
|
|
|
(All buckles for 2" tape by Troll)
|
|
|
|
2" tape
|
|
|
|
(Polyester or nylon tape depending on your cell type.
|
|
3.5m is enough for my 34" beer gut)
|
|
|
|
Optional 1m of 5/8" tape
|
|
Needle and stout tape
|
|
|
|
.ENDD
|
|
The best thing to do now is to simulate the topology shown in figure 2. Once
|
|
you've got the thing in front of you it makes a bit more sense and you can
|
|
adjust it.
|
|
|
|
First you find the middle of the tape, point A on figure 2. Preserve symmetry
|
|
about this point. Thread on the 'D' rings and two buckles as shown in figure 2.
|
|
The assemblies should be around 700mm apart when pulled tight. This length
|
|
forms the belt part. Go on down the ends about 80mm and form the leg loops
|
|
with the bent buckles. Lay the whole thing flat on the floor with the tape on
|
|
edge and bring the two loose ends up out of the leg loops and run them both into
|
|
the last buckle. Hey Presto! Fini, as the French would say. Now comes the
|
|
awkward bit; by studying figures 3 and 4 you will eventually achieve the
|
|
intellectual leap which enables you to work out how the various straps relate
|
|
to your body. Then it's just a case of tediously pushing tape through the buckles
|
|
until it fits.
|
|
The leg loop buckles should come just below the hips and the belt should be
|
|
fairly high up on the back. The buttock strap should provide light support in
|
|
the sitting position. With a krab or even better a triangular Maillon Rapide
|
|
between the 'D' rings you now have a viable sitsling.
|
|
|
|
One final optional mod for a really deluxe job. You will find that when you
|
|
crawl the leg loops drop. This can be prevented by using that piece of 5/8"
|
|
tape as a kind of suspender from the middle of the back belt. I have only
|
|
shown this on figure 4 to avoid confusion. Stitch or knot this into place.
|
|
.BLANK
|
|
Operation and Tests
|
|
|
|
The Buttockhugger takes your weight mainly on the leg loops and so is very
|
|
comfy. I have tried it in the NPC testing lab and underground and consider it
|
|
quite safe.
|
|
|
|
All the components are rated at around two tonnes so things shouldn't start
|
|
to ping until your ropes and krabs start to do likewise. Your natural
|
|
position in it is upright and even if you do turn upside down you do not
|
|
fall out.
|
|
|
|
If by any chance one side should break you are still secure and capable of
|
|
carrying out all SRT functions although rather uncomfortably. The tape shows
|
|
no tendency to slip through the buckles even under shock loads.
|
|
|
|
In use the major wear occurs on the tape in the buckles on the hips, but since
|
|
tape replacement is cheap you can do this as soon as any severe wear shows.
|
|
|
|
A final warning, do make sure that you are very familiar with the way that the
|
|
various loops relate to the various parts of your body, since once tangled
|
|
it's rather awkward to work out what goes where. It would be very embarrassing
|
|
to be rescued from the bottom of a big pitch because you couldn't put your
|
|
sitsling back on.
|
|
.BLANK
|
|
$E Doug Florence
|
|
[end DOUG]
|
|
[begin ----- EDITOR -----]
|
|
.newpage
|
|
$c EDITORIAL
|
|
|
|
Short but sweet so as not to risk being "boring". I
|
|
should like to take the opportunity of answering
|
|
certain comments made by Mr. Checkley in his review of
|
|
last year's journal, suggesting too much space was
|
|
devoted to articles which would be of little interest
|
|
to non-members. About 75% of our journals are sold to
|
|
current or ex-members of the club, and to those who
|
|
have close contacts with the club, so I feel we are
|
|
justified in including articles of this nature, in
|
|
addition to articles keeping other groups informed as
|
|
to what CUCC is doing.
|
|
|
|
Many thanks to all those who have submitted articles
|
|
and surveys; mainly EXCS members as in previous years.
|
|
Thanks also to Tony for his invaluable services as
|
|
"Northern Editor", and to those who helped with the
|
|
typing and collating, especially Charles Butcher, Mark
|
|
Hunter and Mr. Lewis at Fitz.
|
|
|
|
Cambridge Underground will continue to be published on
|
|
an annual basis - we hope to bring out next year's
|
|
early in 1983 as this avoids clashes with exams and May
|
|
Week for those involved with production. We hope to
|
|
reprint the 1981 journal which has currently sold out -
|
|
but copies of past journals from other years are
|
|
available at 50p each plus p&p. For those wishing to
|
|
contact us, the club has a permanent mailing address:-
|
|
.blank
|
|
.display
|
|
CUCC
|
|
c/o Dr. J.C.D. Hickson
|
|
Pembroke College
|
|
Cambridge.
|
|
|
|
.endd
|
|
|
|
Apologies for the lack of photographs - but high costs
|
|
of printing make it not worth our while to include them
|
|
unless they are of high quality and would reproduce
|
|
well. Anything else I might have said has been
|
|
adequately covered by our revered President in his
|
|
"Bit" - so that's yer lot.
|
|
|
|
Buy me a pint in Yorkshire sometime ....
|
|
.blank
|
|
$e Judith Greaves.
|
|
|
|
[end EDITOR]
|
|
[begin ----- EIRE -----]
|
|
.newpage
|
|
$c CUCC EIRE TRIP 20th-27th March 1982
|
|
.blank
|
|
Pete Lancaster, Judith Greaves, Dave Brindle, Philip
|
|
Sargent, Mike Thomas, John Hibbert, Jem Drummond, Andy
|
|
Dolby, Steve Crawley, Steve Roberts, Gail Smith, Dave
|
|
Flatt, Simon Kellet and Doug Florence met at Fishguard
|
|
at about 0210 Saturday morning on the 20th. This was
|
|
the result of an organisational epic which had taken
|
|
most of the previous week to arrange and involved
|
|
Phil's car from Cambridge, Doug's from Gravesend (via
|
|
Cardiff), Dave F's from Hampton (via Oxford), Simon's
|
|
from Cambridge to Rushden and Gail's from Rushden to
|
|
Fishguard. Ten hours later at Doolin, County Clare, we
|
|
discovered that Dave B. had booked fourteen of us into
|
|
a cottage for seven (plus baby) and Steve R. entered
|
|
into some circumspect negotiation with the owner before
|
|
we all turned up. We were to be allowed 'about ten'
|
|
people, but we knew that he knew that we knew that we
|
|
were going to fit in a few more.
|
|
During the week an estimated 300 to 350 pints of
|
|
Guinness were drunk at O'Connor's in Doolin.
|
|
The next Saturday we drove back East to Wexford where
|
|
we stopped off for a couple of quick ones at The Wren's
|
|
Nest, ate the local fast-food shop out of gut-wrenching
|
|
chips, and took off for Rosslare and the ferry. Since
|
|
we were less zonked on the return, instead of crashing
|
|
immediately some of us got to see the generally Noisier
|
|
and Smellier Parts of the ship with a tour of the
|
|
engines and generators given by the Irish Engineer.
|
|
Some also climbed the funnel and photos were taken.
|
|
Back in Wales a thick fog hampered a rapid return but
|
|
all got home safely: Gail's car's Flatt-adjusted timing
|
|
and Philip's car's rewired exhaust notwithstanding.
|
|
At this point my attention is drawn to the fact that I
|
|
may have omitted something in this account. Could it be
|
|
the Grand Bonfire and Brindle's Dead Dog Barbecue on
|
|
Doolin Beach on Friday night ? Perhaps I have passed
|
|
over the relaxing cliff walks, castle visits, seashore
|
|
strolls and Ballyvaughn picnics on Wednesday, or the
|
|
playing in the breakers on Thursday afternoon in
|
|
various states of undress: partial, complete, or, in
|
|
Simon's case, fully-clothed.
|
|
The gloriously sunny and warm weather of nearly all
|
|
the week was superb and we were gently woken in the
|
|
mornings by the gentle strumming of Dave B.'s or
|
|
Simon's fingers on Gail's squeeze-box (the latter noise
|
|
being invariably followed by the unmistakeable sound of
|
|
a Chemical Engineer's fingers being threaded through
|
|
the lace-holes of his own boots). Doug's mandolin gave
|
|
John and Steve C. much amusement and the less said
|
|
about Dave B's penny whistle the better. Anyway, I have
|
|
it now and I am looking for interesting suggestions of
|
|
what to do with it to whom.
|
|
Meals prepared by Doug the Chef (and Head of
|
|
Extraterrestrial Activities of a well-known, up and
|
|
coming Trefoil-Furnace development company), ably
|
|
assisted by whoever was not fast enough to absent
|
|
themselves from the kitchen in time, are memorable for
|
|
their equisite flavours and textures, but also mostly
|
|
for their bulk: some evenings it was all we could do
|
|
just to look at our pints of Guinness, a shameful thing
|
|
in Eire.
|
|
A comfortable lunch on Paddy's at the Roadside Inn,
|
|
Lisdoonvarna, starlit walks to the cottage from Gus
|
|
O'Connor's are fond memories. A truly Excellent Trip in
|
|
every way.
|
|
.blank
|
|
$e Philip Sargent
|
|
[end EIRE]
|
|
[begin ----- EXCS -----]
|
|
.newpage
|
|
$c GREAT KNOUTBERRY INVIOLATE
|
|
Strange sounds have been heard around the summit of
|
|
Great Knoutberry in recent weeks - great puffings and
|
|
gaspings, creakings and groanings, clouds of steam
|
|
rising along the horizon. No, not the steam of the
|
|
trains that rattle along the viaduct below on their
|
|
romantic journeys up to Carlisle (for how much longer
|
|
they will do so remains a sadly indeterminate
|
|
question). No, these are less regular, not the powerful
|
|
rhythm of the great engine, more like the painful
|
|
wheezing of tortured lungs, grasping for each molecule
|
|
of air, buffeted inside the heaving chest of some tired
|
|
and ancient body as it struggles up the slope.
|
|
Curious tracks meander across the snow covered fells,
|
|
emerging from a line of depressions to the south-east
|
|
of Great Knoutberry at a regular height of about 185O
|
|
feet and running down the Arton Gill track into
|
|
Dentdale. At the bottom of these inverted cone shaped
|
|
depressions, in this landscape resembling the pock-
|
|
marked face of our meteor bombarded companion moon, the
|
|
tracks become confused; boulders have been newly
|
|
overturned, their moss coverings torn by unknown forces
|
|
; silt-like deposits spread all around; black holes
|
|
falling through the earth's surface.
|
|
Around 1963, explorers first entered two holes in
|
|
this area to find pitches dropping sheer in black and
|
|
rugged rock to land on boulder floors some 6O feet
|
|
below. On the 31st January 1981 a party consisting of
|
|
astronomer, geographer and architect descended Great
|
|
Knoutberry Hole No.2 in search of endless passages to
|
|
find only a continuation of 18 feet to one side of the
|
|
entrance pitch, ending in an impenetrable slot refusing
|
|
entry to the secrets beyond. On the 14th Februry 1982
|
|
one of these explorers returned to the area searching
|
|
for passages that must surely lie below the wind-swept
|
|
fell. He found two recently discovered openings.
|
|
The first, No Opinel Pot, in a line of depressions slightly below
|
|
those in which the Great Knoutberry Holes lie, is
|
|
a vertical shaft dropping 15 feet through
|
|
the familiar black rock to a floor of jammed boulders
|
|
with signs of a further few feet of drop below. The
|
|
second, Keyring Cave, following the upper line of
|
|
shakeholes to the west and over a wall, drops 1O feet
|
|
into a small dripping chamber twisted around on itself
|
|
to a tiny descending slit in the wall, the remains of a
|
|
dead sheep lending a macabre scent of decomposing flesh
|
|
to the deep darkness.
|
|
The mystery remains..Whose are those curious imprints
|
|
in the snow? What secret labyrinths exist beyond the
|
|
impenetrable slots through which the cold waters flow?
|
|
We shall not rest until we have the answers to these
|
|
questions, except if the pubs are open.
|
|
.blank
|
|
$e EXCS
|
|
[end EXCS]
|
|
[begin ----- FRENCH -----]
|
|
.newpage
|
|
$C A HOLIDAY IN THE PYRENEES
|
|
.blank
|
|
France has many attractions for the geriatrics of
|
|
EXCS. There is the cheap wine and food, and also a lot
|
|
of easy, warm, well-decorated caves - all with very
|
|
foreign and impressive names. "When I was down
|
|
Esparros," you can say as you begin another lunchtime
|
|
tale in the New Inn, knowing that few people will
|
|
realize that Esparros is like a show cave with the
|
|
lights dimmed. When you can bore people with tales of
|
|
easy caves, why bother with the hard trips ? Our
|
|
previous caving holidays had been spent going down the
|
|
same gloomy hole day after day. It was exciting
|
|
treading where no man had gone before, but all too
|
|
often there was a good reason why no-one else had
|
|
bothered. So we were off to the Pyrenees with dreams of
|
|
towering formations and meandering underground rivers,
|
|
followed by five-course French meals in the local
|
|
sleepy village. And it was all true.
|
|
During our three weeks we spent a lot of time
|
|
travelling and packing up camp but we managed to sample
|
|
a great variety of French caves, and here are just a
|
|
few....
|
|
|
|
Sinai, Lot-et-Garonne
|
|
|
|
If you are offered the chance of 2km of crawling in a
|
|
sordid little streamway just to see a mud sump, don't
|
|
bother. We were in no state to make a sensible decision
|
|
when a trip down Sinai was suggested. After a big meal
|
|
and an even bigger dose of Armagnac, a quick caving
|
|
trip seemed the ideal way to round off the evening. But
|
|
once inside the entrance we soon regretted it. It was
|
|
unpleasantly like the Penyghent canals, but with
|
|
nothing at the end. So if you are...
|
|
|
|
Grotte de Labastide, Hautes-Pyrenees
|
|
|
|
We had just had a trip down Esparros, but it was only 2
|
|
p.m. and even Ben didn't fancy retiring to the bar. So
|
|
we dug out our battered copy of Grottes et Canyons and
|
|
found that Labastide was nearby. There were the usual
|
|
problems - roaming around the village with book in hand
|
|
trying to fathom out the obscure directions. But even
|
|
we couldn't fail to find this one. It's a big entrance,
|
|
70 ft by 10 ft, with a grill which is meant to act as
|
|
an intelligence test to stop vandals getting at the
|
|
cave paintings inside, while allowing genuine cavers in
|
|
(vandals are too intelligent).
|
|
With three lights between the five of us, we strolled
|
|
off down the huge passage. Tony saw the first painting
|
|
- he's the artistic one and has a vivid imagination. It
|
|
looked more like a muddy smudge than a rampant buffalo.
|
|
But there was the real thing, on a big upright slab, an
|
|
eight foot high red and black horse. All very
|
|
atmospheric in the flickering light of our dying
|
|
carbide lamps. The atmosphere became a bit too dark as
|
|
two of the lamps went out and we quickly fumbled our
|
|
way back to daylight.
|
|
|
|
Grotte de pereblanque, Haute-Garonne
|
|
|
|
The Reseau Trombe offers a number of excellent trips
|
|
all within a small area, set high in the foothills of
|
|
the Pyrenees. It was early evening when we strode up
|
|
the track to the campsite. The storm clouds were
|
|
scattering and soon the mountains were bathed in
|
|
sunlight - all very idyllic, until we rounded the final
|
|
bend and found thirty Chelsea S.S. cluttering up the
|
|
scene. But there was plenty of room for everyone in
|
|
this perfect campsite of sheltered mountain pastures.
|
|
With nearby streams, plenty of firewood and a choice of
|
|
first class caving within a hundred yards, you could
|
|
happily spend several weeks here.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Our first trip was down the Mille and into the vastness of the Trou de Vent.
|
|
It is used as the local novice cave - we found two parties of schoolgirls
|
|
at -300m, and it's well worth a visit. Next day it was time for sterner
|
|
stuff and so we toiled uphill following the worn path to the obvious entrance
|
|
of Peneblanque. The icy wind blowing out from the depths was a great relief after
|
|
the heat and sweat of the walk. With a level sandy floor, a glorious view and
|
|
built in air conditioning, is this the perfect changing room? Rapid progress
|
|
was easy in the large entrance series. Routefinding was fairly simple- the only
|
|
difficulty is ten minutes in where there is a chaotic area, but the way is well
|
|
scratched.The account in Grottes et Gouffres is quite adequate, whilst still
|
|
keeping its air of mystery which is so sadly lacking in the boringly accurate
|
|
Northern Caves.
|
|
|
|
Walking passages led to small tubes and a series of slippery slopes - just
|
|
slide down and forget about how difficult they will be on the return.The odd
|
|
pitch follows and then you get into the bigstuff. And it gets bigger and
|
|
bigger until you emerge in the huge silence of the Salle du Dromadaire.
|
|
A bit more passage, another pitch and there's a big black hole, the way on down
|
|
into the far reaches of the system. But we were there for fun,so we went out, back
|
|
in time to enjoy a meal in daylight and to get a fire going before the start of
|
|
the evening's display of shooting stars.
|
|
.blank
|
|
Gouffre Raymonde, Haute-Garonne
|
|
.blank
|
|
|
|
This sporting trip had been recommended by a number of people. So armed with scraps
|
|
of paper covered with jottings of various estimates of pitch lengths and a rough
|
|
sketch survey, we stumbled off into the grey drizzle. Ignoring the bolts, we
|
|
belayed the rope for the entrance pitch to a rotting tree-just to ensure a sporting
|
|
hang with lots of rubs. Down the 30m pitch and scrabbling on down rifts,round
|
|
boulders, gaining depth easily. Then a fine 50m hang from huge boulders
|
|
down to the streamway.A quick romp along the streamway, a couple of short
|
|
pitches and the water disappears into a great darkness. It was suddenley
|
|
very cold and wet as we peered down into the black swirling spray.
|
|
But once the big rope was down the 130m pitch, it soon warmed up again.
|
|
With the crashing waterfall out of reach and perfect rebelays, all you had to
|
|
do was sit back on your rack and enjoy the view. The final 80m drop landed
|
|
in the middle of a small lake, and forced along by the roaring draught,
|
|
we continued on down the streamway. A couple of short pitches and the final
|
|
wet one of 50m. But we were now soaked through and fearful of the rain
|
|
on the surface, we began our retreat. With heavy ropes, now too tangled and
|
|
bulky to fit in the tackle bags, we slowly prussiked up the pitches and
|
|
struggled up the entrance rifts, emerging to a dismal rain soaked evening.
|
|
A glorious memorable day which came to a perfect ending when squatting
|
|
outside the tents in the rain, stirring a disgusting stew, I managed to
|
|
upset the lot into the mud. And when we tasted it, we wished we'd left
|
|
it there.
|
|
.blank
|
|
Summary
|
|
.blank
|
|
|
|
Ken Baker, John Bowers, Andy Connolly, Tony Malcolm, Ben van Millingen
|
|
spent three weeks in August 1981 eating, drinking, mixing concrete
|
|
and caving in the Pyrenees. They relied on personal recommendations,
|
|
"Grottes et Canyons" and local maps for information. As well as the
|
|
trips described, they made half-hearted descents of Reveillon, Viazac,
|
|
Esparros, Mille, Betchanka and Castaret.
|
|
.blank
|
|
$e John Bowers
|
|
[end FRENCH]
|
|
[begin ----- GERMAN -----]
|
|
.newpage
|
|
$c THE GERMAN ROUTE, STELLERWEGHOHLE
|
|
.BLANK 3
|
|
The German route was looked at in 1980 (a complete
|
|
description is in Cambridge Underground 1981) and the
|
|
survey appears here only for completeness. This route
|
|
starts soon after the 41 entrance by turning right
|
|
instead of left (see main survey). Exploration ceased
|
|
140m below the start of the pitches when the way on
|
|
became tight - this was 180m below the entrance. It
|
|
undoubtedly drops back into the system lower down, but
|
|
was not felt to be worth pushing.
|
|
[end GERMAN]
|
|
[begin ----- INTRO#41 -----]
|
|
.newpage
|
|
$c AUSTRIA 1981
|
|
.BLANK 3
|
|
For newcomers to Cambridge Underground, a few words may
|
|
be in order about our involvement with Austria. The
|
|
first CUCC expedition in 1976 stayed at the small
|
|
village of Altaussee, 55km southeast of Salzburg and on
|
|
the southwestern fringe of the Totes Gebirge - and we
|
|
have had no reason to move. The 77-79 expeditions
|
|
worked on the Loser Plateau and found 82 (-215m), 97
|
|
(-265m) and 106 (-506m) (see map). The numbers are
|
|
those of the Austrian Catalogue and should be prefixed
|
|
by the area code 1623/. The 1980 expedition
|
|
concentrated on an area further south (and nearer the
|
|
car park at the top of the toll road); this was the
|
|
region near the Stoger Weg, path no. 201. 113
|
|
(Sonnenstrahlhohle) went to -329m; 41 (Stellerweghohle)
|
|
was still going at -350m; and 115 (Schnellzughohle, but
|
|
referred to as Gemsescheissehohle in last year's
|
|
journal) was discovered. The 41 entrance is just above
|
|
the path near the point where it drops sharply and 115
|
|
is nearby, below the path. It was with the intention
|
|
of looking at these two pots that the 1981 expedition
|
|
went out for the first three weeks of August.
|
|
|
|
This year's expedition included a large number of new
|
|
faces. The usual EXCS contingent had decided to give
|
|
Austria a rest for a year and live it up in the
|
|
Pyrenees; so that there were mostly resident CUCC
|
|
members on this year's trip.They were joined by a large
|
|
party from the UBSS,some of whom had been to Austria
|
|
before.Although the expedition as a whole lacked
|
|
experience outside Britain, the larger than usual
|
|
number of very enthusiastic and able speleos gave hopes
|
|
of a succesful expedition
|
|
Those partaking of regular refreshment in the Bar
|
|
Fischer were:
|
|
.blank
|
|
.display
|
|
|
|
Rich Barker UBSS
|
|
Dave Brindle CUCC
|
|
Chas Butcher CUCC
|
|
John Cownie CUCC
|
|
Judith Greaves CUCC
|
|
Simon Kellet CUCC
|
|
Pete Lancaster CUCC
|
|
Jane Lolly
|
|
Tim Lyons UBSS
|
|
Fraser Macdonald CUCC
|
|
Mike Martin UBSS
|
|
Pat Martin UBSS
|
|
Mick McHale UBSS
|
|
Janet Morgan BUPC
|
|
Clive Owen UBSS
|
|
Rob Parker SWCC
|
|
Tim Parker CUCC
|
|
Steve Perry UBSS/CUCC
|
|
Phil Townsend CUCC
|
|
Julian Walker SWCC
|
|
Martin Warren UBSS
|
|
|
|
.endd
|
|
.blank
|
|
four of whom had caved on the CUCC expedition in
|
|
previous years.
|
|
The expedition intended to continue the exploration
|
|
of 41 and 115 from 198O and so Altaussee was the
|
|
obvious place to stay.The steady influx of nineteen
|
|
cavers, their cars, ropes, and heaps of smelly tackle
|
|
came as rather a shock to Fritz the campsite owner and
|
|
even more so to the other campers.The half-sized
|
|
campsite rapidly became overcrowded- some of us nearly
|
|
had to sleep in t'bottom o't'lake with only a handful
|
|
of cold ravioli for breakfast.This overcrowding was
|
|
certainly a factor, along with the hedgehog, in the
|
|
spreading of the dreaded Lurgi in the second week, when
|
|
everybody on the site was struck down at some time by
|
|
the legendary Spanish tummy, Delhi belly, or whatever
|
|
you care to call it.This illness nearly had serious
|
|
consequences when several people were taken ill
|
|
underground, one particularly badly,leading to a
|
|
certain lack of enthusiasm to enter 115 amongst other
|
|
cavers for fear of what they might put their hands in!
|
|
Many thanks are due to our eminent expedition surgeon
|
|
for ministering to the sick with undying affection.
|
|
CUCC will not forsake Fritz another opportunity of
|
|
forcing them to drink a crate of beer on arrival;
|
|
Seecamping Madlmeier will see them again next year.As
|
|
in previous years a special rate was negociated for the
|
|
toll road - bottles of Scotch should go on the top of
|
|
any quartermaster's list of essentials. An
|
|
accident-free three weeks on the driving front was an
|
|
unexpected achievement considering the many early hours
|
|
trips back from the plateau and our previous record of
|
|
crashes.
|
|
The arrival of the UBSS in force on the Loser this
|
|
year was particularly useful from an equipment point of
|
|
view.They had received and spent a sizeable grant on
|
|
expedition tackle so that there was enough rope to
|
|
explore two large caves at once and furthermore no
|
|
necessity to chop up personal rope.The UBSS also
|
|
provided much of the transport in the first week.
|
|
It was decided that the UBSS/SWCC Hohlenforschers
|
|
would concentrate on 41 whilst CUCC renewed the attack
|
|
on 115.This decision was based purely on the fact that
|
|
Steve Perry knew where 41 was and Simon Kellet
|
|
purported to know the whereabouts of 115.In fact
|
|
everyone who wished got a trip in both caves; which
|
|
produced some constructive criticism of the rigging in
|
|
115! The exploration of 41 was perhaps carried out by
|
|
too few and as a result very long tackling trips were
|
|
undertaken, worth many hero points but leaving several
|
|
days when no-one entered the cave.The rigging was a
|
|
superb piece of engineering and the cave a real
|
|
pleasure to descend.In contrast 115 was overmanned,
|
|
largely because the prospect of breaking new ground was
|
|
present from the first trip, and some pretty
|
|
unimaginative rigging was done.It is fair to say that
|
|
the entrance series of 115 to the steamway, does not
|
|
lend itself to long free-hanging pitches, much of the
|
|
depth being gained in hading rifts; any exploration
|
|
next year ought to start by rigging a more enticing
|
|
route in.
|
|
Once the streamway and dry high-level dry phreatic
|
|
maze had been reached in 115, and a similar situation
|
|
revealed in 41 the chance of a connection became more
|
|
than a dream.A 115 trip to find a bypass to the first
|
|
arduous 500m of streamway discovered a considerable
|
|
amount of phreatic passage, some with seemingly
|
|
anomalous draughts. Finding no obvious right way on a
|
|
cairn was built at the farthest point of exploration
|
|
and a decision to push on down the streamway made.
|
|
Three days later a pushing trip in 41 discovered the
|
|
cairn and the connection was made. Unfortunately it now
|
|
became easier to get into the system so that the more
|
|
spectacular and better-rigged entrance was used only
|
|
for tourist through-trips and may not be rigged next
|
|
year.
|
|
The exploration of the streamway was dogged by
|
|
illness, badly coordinated trips in which teams reached
|
|
the bottom to find that there was insufficient rope or
|
|
the bolt kit had been taken out, and by the arduous
|
|
nature of the first tight 500m of streamway. It will
|
|
be necessary to find a high level route if the
|
|
exploration is not to involve twenty hour trips and a
|
|
lot of enthusiasm.
|
|
Very little prospecting was done this year, and
|
|
most of it concentrated on finding a third entrance to
|
|
the 41/115 system. 32 is a promising hole but requires
|
|
either a lot of hammer wielding or an application of
|
|
Dr. Nobel's Linctus. The region to the north of 113
|
|
has yet to be investigated, largely because it is a
|
|
long walk to lug tackle!
|
|
CUCC is not in the habit of mounting serious
|
|
scientific expeditions and this was no exception.
|
|
Surveying was the ususal pain in the posterior and the
|
|
club lacks a committed cartographer to sit around in
|
|
the cold distasteful bits of 115. The club does have a
|
|
surfeit of geologists but they showed very little
|
|
interest in applying their brains to the hydrology and
|
|
geology of the system, though they did find some
|
|
"pretty fossils - **** knows what they are".
|
|
CUCC may be criticized for not moving to pastures
|
|
new, but the fact remains that the Loser Plateau
|
|
continues to provide good caving, considerable depth
|
|
potential - the current bottom of 41/115 is around 800m
|
|
below the entrance to Eislufthohle - and is a very
|
|
accessible area. This latter part has to be the
|
|
greatest advantage, after all for most participants the
|
|
expedition is a holiday and so there should be a
|
|
minimum amount of donkey work, trekking and roughing it
|
|
involved, and easy access to beer, Apfelstrudel and
|
|
Pfeffersteaks.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
.blank
|
|
$e Phil Townsend
|
|
[end INTRO#41]
|
|
[begin ----- MAGNET -----]
|
|
.newpage
|
|
$c MAGNETOMETER - EARTHWORM EXTENSIONS
|
|
|
|
Rob and Julian noticed a new choke down near Earthworm
|
|
Passage in Magnetometer Pot on a diving trip. Coming
|
|
from the Whale it is situated at the end of the rift
|
|
you can stand up in where the passage to Earthworm
|
|
leads off to the right. They pulled a few boulders out
|
|
until a stream could be heard and a continuing passage
|
|
could be seen.
|
|
|
|
The next trip down was armed with some digging gear and
|
|
rope to pull away the more precarious boulders.
|
|
Unfortunately the worst didn't move and those that did
|
|
had a knack of only falling when someone was standing
|
|
underneath them. The way on is a climb up through the
|
|
choke following the stream that flows through the
|
|
boulders. Here the passage rises to standing room. To
|
|
the left a small inlet passage leads off, starting at
|
|
stooping height but rising as the stream cuts into the
|
|
mud banks. It stops after 150ft in a solid calcited
|
|
choke. Back at the main passage a stream runs in the
|
|
floor with banks of mud on the right. The stream comes
|
|
out of a choke which is bypassed to the right. Above
|
|
this is a muddy chamber. On the right is a solid wall,
|
|
at the foot of which is a very low bedding plane the
|
|
other side of which is thought to be Earthworm Passage.
|
|
In the chamber under the left hand wall are two choked
|
|
pools, probably connected to the stream leading to the
|
|
original choke at the start of the dig. Above these
|
|
pools is a short thrutch through more boulders. Here
|
|
the passage drops down to a hole leading to a 20 foot
|
|
hands and knees crawl.
|
|
|
|
The next trip by Rob and Julian was to investigate the
|
|
different pools in the extension. All of them were
|
|
found to be choked. Abandoning their bottles they
|
|
continued to the muddy crawl. This changes from hands
|
|
and knees to an incredibly muddy body sized tube for 30
|
|
feet - you stick to every wall. The tube ended at the
|
|
top of a pitch for which they had no ladder.
|
|
|
|
That evening Julian caught Ben in an enthusiastic mood
|
|
i.e. in the pub, and persuaded him he wanted to go
|
|
caving the next day. Taking a ladder for the pitch at
|
|
the end of the tube, a bolt was put in the wall as
|
|
there is no natural belay. The take off is rather
|
|
awkward especially for those with long legs as the tube
|
|
extends right up to the head of the pitch. 15 feet
|
|
down lands in a foot deep pool of water seemingly with
|
|
no way on. Unfortunately a very narrow crack of air
|
|
provides the way on through a sporting duck under the
|
|
wall opposite the tube. It emerges in a flat out
|
|
crawl. A small passage was noticed just after this on
|
|
the right but the route followed was straight ahead to
|
|
where the roof rises slightly only to find the passage
|
|
is blocked by stal. Some time was spent digging at
|
|
this until it was discovered one could squeeze through.
|
|
Assuring Ben he'd never get through, Julian disappeared
|
|
into the continuing passage. After twenty feet a stream
|
|
was met and downstream the passage was blocked again by
|
|
stal. Upstream the passage continued for some 250 feet
|
|
ending in a choke. On the way back a junction with a
|
|
dry passage was explored. A crawl emerged in a rather
|
|
large phreatic passage, but remembering his assistant
|
|
lying in a pool of water back at the stal Julian returned.
|
|
|
|
A team of four returned to survey and finish the
|
|
exploration. The small passage just after the duck was
|
|
followed rather than the straight ahead route, and this
|
|
bypassed the stal blockage. Downstream the passage was
|
|
found to end in an unpleasant sump. Upstream the dry
|
|
crawl was followed to a 15x20 foot phreatic passage
|
|
ending abruply after 40 feet. The passage turned
|
|
sharply left down to a sump with a mud and boulder
|
|
slope preventing further progress. Two people were
|
|
left to look at any loose ends while the others went
|
|
out surveying only to find that they possessed a very
|
|
erratic compass. Reaching the 15 foot pitch, what had
|
|
been a small trickle had now turned into a torrent.
|
|
However the duck in the pool at the bottom of the pitch
|
|
remained passable which suggests that the pool must
|
|
drain somewhere. Though many of the passages at the
|
|
bottom of Magnetometer undoubtedly do fill up with
|
|
water, many trips have been undertaken when the weather
|
|
is extremely wet. On this trip water was flowing over
|
|
the boulders at the start of the extension rather than
|
|
just through them, but there was no noticeable increase
|
|
in water level throughout the rest of the cave.
|
|
|
|
Surveying trips down Magnetometer seem to be devilled
|
|
with bad luck: one trip to survey some new passage in
|
|
Cow Close was curtailed by a distinctly nasty medical
|
|
complaint; trips to Earthworm extensions were foiled
|
|
once by an erratic compass and on another occasion by a
|
|
boulder falling out of the roof at the start of the
|
|
greasy tube onto someone's hand. Since then however
|
|
the survey has been completed with no more excitement
|
|
than a multiple light failure.
|
|
|
|
The total length of 700 to 800 feet of new passage with
|
|
five new sumps and three new streams adds to the
|
|
interesting and complex nature of Magnetometer breaking
|
|
into some large phreatic passage, though intersected by
|
|
some extremely sordid sections. It is an area that
|
|
deserves further attention, heading as it does towards
|
|
Penyghent.
|
|
|
|
.blank
|
|
$e Ben van Millingen
|
|
|
|
[end MAGNET]
|
|
[begin ----- PBIT -----]
|
|
.newpage
|
|
$c THE PRESIDENT'S BIT
|
|
|
|
I shall abandon the normal practice of writing about a
|
|
complete academic year and relate what has happened
|
|
since the last "bit" i.e. Summer '81 to Easter '82. At
|
|
the end of last year the club was doing pretty well for
|
|
itself, being large enough to do classic trips and
|
|
still take novices caving. The pre- and post tripos
|
|
meets in very dry conditions saw Hammer, Gingling,
|
|
Black Shiver and Pippikin all bottomed as well as many
|
|
of the more usual trips. This slice of club history
|
|
was rounded off by a very successful Austrian
|
|
expedition, which was unusual in that most of the
|
|
members were still at Cambridge or had just left and
|
|
for many it was their first taste of foreign caving.
|
|
Despite this lack of experience of expedition caving, a
|
|
solid base of Yorkshire pot bashing, coupled with much
|
|
good luck meant that CUCC got to its deepest ever:
|
|
-680m (plus or minus a bit).
|
|
|
|
So the academic year 81-82 opened with quite a
|
|
reputation to keep up. The squash and coach meet to
|
|
Carlswalk were as polished as ever, but at the end of
|
|
it all we emerged with our lowest recruitment ever. To
|
|
some extent this can be blamed on our unwillingness to
|
|
extract money from people (!), and also on the
|
|
recession with students being rather more careful how
|
|
they spent their meagre grant; however it seems that
|
|
the only people we didn't recruit were those who
|
|
normally contribute to the ghost membership of the
|
|
club, and overall we were in the same position as ever.
|
|
One problem which became apparent during the year was
|
|
the lack of sufficient experienced members both to lead
|
|
novices and to go on glory trips, and we were fortunate
|
|
that this year novice trips took preference rather than
|
|
a peeling off of the "hards" into their own clique as
|
|
has happened in the past. Last year was exceptional in
|
|
that there were sufficient older members to allow both
|
|
sorts of trip on the same meet. The solution seems to
|
|
be to reserve vacation and private meets for classic
|
|
trips and to look after novices on the normal term time
|
|
club meets - to let them do their own thing can only
|
|
result in disaster as was shown by the rescue in 1979.
|
|
Anyway, amongst the pots we finally got down were:
|
|
Rowten, Sleets Gill, Cherry Tree, Wade's Entrance,
|
|
Slasher (bottomed at last), Lost Johns, Magnetometer,
|
|
Disappointment, County, South Wales, Mendip including a
|
|
fine free diving trip to Swildons 9; and for the first
|
|
time in 8 years, CUCC actually bottomed Langcliffe,
|
|
even if it did take rather a long time.
|
|
|
|
To do our bit for conservation we have joined the scheme run by "Descent" and
|
|
adopted Tatham Wife Hole. On our first cleaning trip down there we removed two
|
|
fertiliser bags full of rubbish; we hope to do this regularly in the future.
|
|
|
|
On the tackle front: to replace our decimated ladder
|
|
stock, 100m were constructed in about 4 days, and it
|
|
doesn't really seem worth building it in quantities
|
|
much less than this, since once the skills have been
|
|
relearned ladder can be churned out at an alarming
|
|
rate. Despite the expedition, SRT was not used much in
|
|
Yorkshire; I think the first flush of excitement has
|
|
worn off and it has been realised that there are
|
|
remarkably few trips where it is worth using. The
|
|
club's policy of abseiling down lifeline (i.e. 11mm
|
|
laid nylon not specifically reserved for SRT) and self
|
|
lining up has come in for some criticism. I think that
|
|
the length of pitches on which we use the method (130ft
|
|
or less), and fairly good abrasion resistance of the
|
|
rope make the sacrificing of some safety acceptable for
|
|
the increased speed and simplicity.
|
|
|
|
Our distance from the caves has supplied the usual
|
|
problems, but slogging up the A1 does nothing but
|
|
increase our keenness to go caving when we do get
|
|
there. There were few private cars in the club this
|
|
year and this has meant the additional expense of
|
|
hiring a minibus and/or cars - but it looks as if the
|
|
University Societies Syndicate will be subsidising
|
|
transport to some extent and this will certainly be
|
|
quite a breakthrough. On other financial matters, we
|
|
get far less money than most other university clubs,
|
|
but have evolved a reasonable system whereby only
|
|
ladders, lining ropes and belays are owned by the club;
|
|
and lights, krabs and SRT ropes etc are individuallly
|
|
owned. Producing a journal every year almost bankrupts
|
|
us, but we survive somehow.
|
|
|
|
The older members (formally grouped together as EXCS)
|
|
have been as active as ever in Yorkshire and elsewhere,
|
|
and it is largely for their efforts that this journal
|
|
exists. You can read about Magnetometer further on,
|
|
but not mentioned is that after many years of hard
|
|
work, the Goyden - New Goyden connection has been
|
|
established by divers Rob Shackleton and Julian
|
|
Griffiths. Undergraduate members are too busy pot
|
|
bashing and gaining experience to worry about such
|
|
sordid and time consuming activites as digging, and
|
|
although resident members can hope to do little
|
|
original exploration in this country, there is always
|
|
the surveying to be helped with at the end of it all,
|
|
and the chance of glory in Austria. The ex-members are
|
|
a vital part of CUCC, to provide experience when the
|
|
club is flagging, inspiration ("the time we bottomed
|
|
Penyghent in only 4 hours"), and to maintain the
|
|
continuing traditions of the club.
|
|
|
|
To sum up then, this year has been largely successful,
|
|
despite the apparent lack of new members, and this just
|
|
goes to show that no matter what happens to the club,
|
|
it will still bounce back; for where two or more are
|
|
drinking together - there is CUCC. I look forward to
|
|
the 1982 expedition; it should provide good reading in
|
|
next year's journal, and wish the club a healthy
|
|
future.
|
|
|
|
.blank
|
|
$e Pete Lancaster.
|
|
|
|
[end PBIT]
|
|
[begin ----- PERRY -----]
|
|
.newpage
|
|
$c UBSS IN AUSTRIA - STELLERWEGHOHLE AND THE CONNECTION
|
|
.blank
|
|
Stories of pitches, classic continental rigging and
|
|
depth, honour and glory attracted the UBSS to join CUCC
|
|
in Austria. With them came the state of art tackle they
|
|
had bought to the keen specification of their more
|
|
experienced members. The latter came too, though not
|
|
all of their experience had been of caving over the
|
|
previous few years. One, a Doctor noted for his energy,
|
|
sent out to buy an Escort for transport misinterpreted
|
|
his brief and provided a racy little sportster. The
|
|
others showed good humour by providing the real
|
|
transport; an Escort advertising longevity and the
|
|
redundancy of prissy bodywork, and an Imp with a trailer
|
|
its own size. The trailer was in quite reasonable
|
|
repair. Your correspondent provided a tent suitable for
|
|
the bridge parties and a cook to double as decoration
|
|
and baggage for the sportster.
|
|
We were joined in Austria by two SWCC members - whose
|
|
tackle we left in England as we were not going to stand
|
|
for 'Hangers On' taking advantage. Unknown to us, these
|
|
muscular youths had firm invitations and were hurt by
|
|
our short measure; understandably - we agreed - as we
|
|
watched them hurl a lesser Politician from our ranks
|
|
far into the icy lake. We fortunately had some spare
|
|
kit for them and were thus joined by two most pleasant
|
|
and powerful cavers.
|
|
The walk to Stellerweghohle (41a) takes a contoured
|
|
path from the restaurant overlooking the campsite. In
|
|
the sun it is an enjoyable stroll made serious only by
|
|
the thoughts of caving ahead. Memories of the long slog
|
|
across the plateau on previous trips are recounted with
|
|
expansive gestures over the skyline, and just a hint of
|
|
'hard days remembered' in the eyes. The easy efficiency
|
|
of our path soon leads to an orange paint blob marking
|
|
the start of the winding climb up through thick bush
|
|
and stone gullies to the 41a entrance. Below, a more
|
|
serious slither leads down to 115. The entrance belches
|
|
cold air, welcome relief to sweat for just a moment
|
|
before the various chills of present, past and future
|
|
cool the mind.
|
|
The route to the big pitch follows phreatic passages
|
|
developed along inclined bedding planes. It is crossed
|
|
by 45 degree ramps which are traversed, several with the aid
|
|
of fixed lines. The first pitch bypass (found on a trip
|
|
for which I created lateral opportunities by forgetting
|
|
to include rock anchors in the tackle) takes one of
|
|
these ramps down, then along the strike to
|
|
join the bottom of the pitch chamber.
|
|
The final ramp is descended, dropping down the base of
|
|
its 'T' section, then over large boulders to the
|
|
division of the rift. To the right last year's route
|
|
gains an airy take-off made torrid (does he really mean
|
|
this word ? typist) by mud and spoilt further by
|
|
rebelays at several contact points. To the left, a
|
|
couple of 10m abseils lead to a fine free hang for the
|
|
big pitch: a splendid 100m drop, hanging at times at
|
|
least 10m from the nearest wall, broken only by a free
|
|
rebelay in slings.
|
|
At the foot of the pitch a stream runs down the rift,
|
|
then below an awkward traverse section which is
|
|
followed by a series of progressively wetter and
|
|
tighter pitches. These were rigged as tight as
|
|
possible. We remember the sound of flood pulses -
|
|
possibly more inhibiting in the telling than to the
|
|
cold flesh (what _does_ he mean ? typist) but a feature
|
|
not to take lightly in a place with the promise of this
|
|
cave.
|
|
A hammered squeeze on a 6m pitch adds interest as a
|
|
marker of better to come - not the least interest is
|
|
the thought of others negotiating it. Strange comfort.
|
|
An awkward 7m pitch then a stretchy climb (up over
|
|
large boulders and losing the water) follows the rift
|
|
into a magnificent cleft some 3m wide and over 100m
|
|
high. Oddly it was at this spot last year that we
|
|
directed attention to an alternative route (the 'German
|
|
Route') for 3 days, pushing to -180m in increasingly
|
|
nasty sharp, tight passage. Odd how that narrow rift
|
|
quietened enthusiasm with such a superb way lying
|
|
ahead.
|
|
The rote on follws the now dry rift and includes
|
|
numerous small pitches and traverse rebelays. The water
|
|
is rejoined and the passage roof closes over to within
|
|
10m in places. The final pitches are in clean washed
|
|
round pots with a stream lip and more spray from above.
|
|
The walls are striated (ENTIRELY the wrong word,
|
|
typist) with the fossils of large molluscs (bivalves
|
|
about 30cm across). The rift must surely plunge on
|
|
down, grey and businesslike, and deep.
|
|
Here, on our third major rigging-in day, we placed a
|
|
final bolt ahead of last year's progress. We had
|
|
consolidated the route with fine rigging in preparation
|
|
for the pushing trips beyond. Each trip had been tiring
|
|
to the experienced members, now we were damp as well
|
|
and still the return to make. During the ascent one
|
|
wondered what one was doing here; (****, typist)
|
|
building character or the foundation of more good
|
|
stories ? Certainly we had provided the basis for a
|
|
memorable through trip as the next visit revealed. We
|
|
even lured the 115 contingent down to this spectacle of
|
|
fine cave and tasteful rigging and the through trip
|
|
gave us the opportunity to curl a lip over the 115
|
|
entrance series.
|
|
The last pitch drops into Junction Chamber. Turning
|
|
right one follows a gently descending stream. Soon the
|
|
way traverses the rift above the stream. Above (after
|
|
40m) a hole in the roof leads to a series of small and
|
|
dusty tubes. We are in a phreatic zone. After a few
|
|
bends the passage on closes down to a short flat out
|
|
crawl regaining the stream. More traversing on dusty
|
|
loose mud ledges in the passage roof gains a hole in
|
|
the roof and a series of phreatic tubes of railway
|
|
tunnel proportions. These tubes can be followed back to
|
|
the Junction Chamber entering about 10m above the
|
|
floor. Ahead they take a series of swooping inclines
|
|
punctuated by dramatic bends. This area was much
|
|
appreciated by the surveying party. A final incline to
|
|
a sharp left bend regains the stream in its rift and
|
|
reveals the sight, surprising to the the first
|
|
explorers, of a cairn.
|
|
From this lowest point of the connection there are two
|
|
routes on - one a traverse over the stream then a climb
|
|
over large boulders into a passage entering from the
|
|
left; the other a 0.75m hole at floor level to the left
|
|
of the start of the final incline. The two ways join in
|
|
an uphill sandy passage (1.5m high by 3m wide).
|
|
At some stage one should appreciate the significance
|
|
of the cairn - marking the limit of exploration of a
|
|
side line in 115. The eagerness to get out through 115
|
|
may have reduced interest in 41a, a shame as it was
|
|
only later that we looked at another exit from Junction
|
|
Chamber. Anyway, following the uphill passage one can
|
|
reflect on the peace of this area, the comfort and ease
|
|
of progress. A nice site for a bivvy if necessary.
|
|
Next a flat out crawl hardly slows progress into the
|
|
teeth of a healthy draft. Enthusiasm is rewarded by a
|
|
motorway (almost) sized passage (all things, the
|
|
educated mind realises, are relative. John Parker once
|
|
described a passage: "It's huge in places, one can
|
|
stand up even." This passage is really big). Now
|
|
turning right - who knows what lay to the left - A
|
|
further 90m of phreatic tube lead to the 115 main
|
|
stream passage.
|
|
Our next interest in 41a lay in derigging it. This
|
|
came after a suitable period for through trips both of
|
|
a caving and an enteric nature - which some of our
|
|
party combined. This was approached from 115 to provide
|
|
variety.
|
|
At Junction Chamber we noted the obvious and hitherto
|
|
ignored 15m climb leading left into a
|
|
choice of phreatic passages with further avens gaping
|
|
above - a really large Junctional Complex. To the right
|
|
after 50m the passage lead to a rift above a stream.
|
|
The other choice was a large phreatic tube (10m by 10m)
|
|
in which easy progress down a 30 degree slope gained
|
|
50m of depth. This scramble down boulders leads to a
|
|
cross-rift after about 150m. To the right a stream, to
|
|
the left a traverse after a short distance. It is
|
|
galling to find such a passage on your derigging trip,
|
|
but that's why the description stops here.
|
|
.blank
|
|
$e Steve Perry
|
|
[end PERRY]
|
|
[begin ----- RES -----]
|
|
.newpage
|
|
.display
|
|
$c Cambridge University Caving Club
|
|
.blank
|
|
$c 1981/82
|
|
.blank 5
|
|
_Committee_
|
|
.blank 2
|
|
.indent 6
|
|
.tabset 30 50
|
|
Dr J.C.D.Hickson $T Senior Treasurer $T Pembroke
|
|
Pete Lancaster $T President $T St John's
|
|
Dave Brindle $T Secretary $T Queens'
|
|
Terry Carroll $T Junior Treasurer $T Robinson
|
|
Charles Butcher $T Tackle Manager $T Corpus Christi
|
|
John Hibbert $T Librarian $T St John's
|
|
Judith Greaves $T Editor $T Clare
|
|
Mike Thomas $T $T Pembroke
|
|
Pat Trelogan $T $T CCAT
|
|
.indent 0
|
|
.blank 8
|
|
$c -oOo-
|
|
.blank 8
|
|
_Resident Members_
|
|
.blank
|
|
.tabset 18 36 55
|
|
Prof. J.F.Adams $T Trinity $T Julia Hawkins $T Selwyn
|
|
Pamela Abbot $T CCAT $T Caroline Hirons $T CCAT
|
|
Steve Ardron $T Churchill $T Alison Howett $T Trinity
|
|
Nigel Beaumont $T Queens' $T Mark Hunter $T Trinity
|
|
John Benjamin $T Trinity $T Tim King $T Trinity
|
|
Mark Bennett $T Corpus Christi $T Nick Laffoley $T St Catherine's
|
|
Sally Bliss $T CCAT $T Jintae Lee $T Darwin
|
|
Alison Borlase $T CCAT $T Steve Lloyd $T Robinson
|
|
Piete Brooks$T Trinity $T Fraser Macdonald$TCorpus Christi
|
|
Alison Carey $T Trinity Hall $T Cecilia Mottram $T CCAT
|
|
Steve Crawley $T St John's $T Steve Roberts $T Queens'
|
|
Ursula Collie $T St Catherine's $T Phil Sargent $T Robinson
|
|
Brian Derby $T Wolfson $T Andy Strangeways $T CCAT
|
|
Mark Davenport $T Sidney Sussex $T Rebecca Taylor $T Robinson
|
|
Andrew Dolby $T Caius $T Paul Thomas $T St John's
|
|
Steve Douglas $T St John's $T James Thompson $T Corpus Christi
|
|
Jeremy Drummond $T Queens' $T Linda Tyas $T Newnham
|
|
Iain Hamilton $T Robinson $T Paul Weaver $T Pembroke
|
|
.blank 6
|
|
$c _1982 Dinner Awards_
|
|
.blank
|
|
$c Golden Boot - Charles Butcher
|
|
$c Silver Slipper - Steve Perry
|
|
.endd
|
|
[end RES]
|
|
[begin ----- SURVEY -----]
|
|
.newpage
|
|
$c THE SURVEY
|
|
.BLANK 3
|
|
Surveying was not the strong point of this year's
|
|
expedition; it is hoped that we can do better next
|
|
year. The entrance series of 115 to the head of the
|
|
Ramp and 41 down to the pitch just above Junction
|
|
Chamber were surveyed to BCRA Grade 5 in 1980 and these
|
|
surveys have been published in Proc. UBSS vol.16(1).
|
|
115 from the ramp to the bottom of the pitches and the
|
|
connection were both surveyed to Grade 4
|
|
(the survey of the connection is reproduced here), making a
|
|
closed traverse with the surface survey between the
|
|
entrances. Unfortunately, although they closed
|
|
vertically to within 2m, the plan closure was wildly
|
|
out. It is thought that this might have been due to a
|
|
sticky compass on the 1980 survey. The length of
|
|
Pete's Purgatory was found to be 800m but no other
|
|
details were measured. Below this, the section of the
|
|
streamway from the inlet to the 'twelve foot climb'
|
|
(marked as c5) was surveyed to Grade 3 and this is
|
|
extrapolated downstream on the Grade 1 survey to give a
|
|
total depth of 680m plus or minus 40m. One point which
|
|
the elevation does not bring out is the way that
|
|
Stellerweg spirals round on itself with changes of
|
|
direction at the big pitch and at Junction Chamber.
|
|
The final direction of the streamway seems to be
|
|
northwest - heading back into the mountain and away
|
|
from the lake.
|
|
[end SURVEY]
|
|
[begin ----- TOTES -----]
|
|
.newpage
|
|
$c CAVE DEVELOPMENT IN THE TOTES GEBIRGE,AUSTRIA
|
|
.BLANK
|
|
INTRODUCTION
|
|
|
|
In reading through material related to this discourse I
|
|
discovered reference to the writings of Cvijic, who had
|
|
devoted considerable effort to the study of the
|
|
extensive karst region of Jugoslavia, drawing certain
|
|
conclusions as to the formation of that area, which I
|
|
incorporate here as background to the area of Austria
|
|
we have visited over the last few years considering its
|
|
apparent similarities.
|
|
|
|
The basis for Cvijic's cycle of erosion requires three
|
|
factors to be present: a thick and extensive mass of
|
|
limestone, accompanied by an underlying impermeable
|
|
rock for the initiation of a stream pattern.
|
|
|
|
"A study of the Totes Gebirge region (the Northern
|
|
Limestone Alps), shows that it is composed mainly of
|
|
Alpine Triassic and Jurassic (limestone),
|
|
nonconformably overlain by paralic and largely detrital
|
|
sediments of late Cretaceous and early Tertiary age
|
|
(the Gosau Beds found in small scattered
|
|
concentrations). The main elements of the Northern
|
|
Limestone Alps are massive carbonate series of the
|
|
Middle and Upper Triassic which may reach thicknesses
|
|
of over one kilometre. Below and between the massive
|
|
carbonate members are found thinly bedded series of
|
|
shales and evaporites." The requirements seem amply
|
|
fulfilled.
|
|
|
|
Cvijic's cycle then has three phases of development; in
|
|
Youth the upper impermeable layer is removed by streams
|
|
which then go underground through enlarged joints and
|
|
fissures, the drainage pattern disintegrates, streams
|
|
flow down normal valleys only to disappear into
|
|
solution holes at blind ends. In Late Maturity the
|
|
underground streams reach the impermeable underlying
|
|
stratum and cavern roofs collapse, the limestone cover
|
|
is reduced to a few outliers honeycombed with caves,
|
|
and is finally removed.
|
|
|
|
In the area of the Totes Gebirge the Youth phase has
|
|
been passed with almost no surface drainage now
|
|
apparent, although Sonnenstrahlhohle is an example of
|
|
the result of a previous surface stream pattern which
|
|
once flowed down a well defined valley into its
|
|
impressive entrance chamber (partially collapsed). The
|
|
surface is now generally composed of highly jointed
|
|
limestone with no soil to prevent water from passing
|
|
directly underground. How far the area has moved into
|
|
the Mature stage is the question of greatest interest
|
|
to the speleologist in the search for a deep system, a
|
|
question which will be answered by continued
|
|
exploration.
|
|
.ensure 5
|
|
.BLANK
|
|
DETAILED CONSIDERATION
|
|
|
|
In the two major systems discovered to date we have
|
|
encountered the two forms of cave entrance in the shaft
|
|
like solution hole of Eislufthohle, and the funnel-
|
|
shaped depression of Sonnenstrahlhohle (considered
|
|
likely to be the top entrance to the Stellerweg
|
|
system). In this context their relative positions on
|
|
the massif are interesting (see map and section).
|
|
Returning to Cvijic's erosion cycle, the original
|
|
surface stream pattern formed on an impermeable layer
|
|
has, in the case of Sonnenstrahlhohle, followed a
|
|
well-defined route towards the edge of the massif where
|
|
it has met a weak point in the limestone structure in
|
|
the form of a slip fault. The angle of the passage in
|
|
this cave and Stellerweg is similar (around 60 degrees from
|
|
the horizontal) and conforms to the notion of water
|
|
eroding along a line of least resistance, along this
|
|
fault.
|
|
|
|
In the case of Eislufhohle the situation is rather
|
|
different (refer to map, section and surveys). The
|
|
cave is situated roughly centrally in a depression
|
|
surrounded on three sides by steep slopes - a
|
|
depression of bare, heavily-jointed limestone. During
|
|
the ice age this high ground would have been covered
|
|
with a permanent ice field. In this situation the
|
|
erosional processes would be concentrated under the
|
|
snow allowing a depression to be formed, itself
|
|
enlarged into a more circular plan by the action of
|
|
ablation around its edges. As the depression begins to
|
|
form its development accelerates as snow becomes more
|
|
readily captured in it and its permanence becomes
|
|
enhanced as its bulk reduces the effects of temperature
|
|
fall. As opposed to the tremendous abrading of the
|
|
valley glaciers, solution becomes the dominant
|
|
erosional process as meltwaters flow under the ice
|
|
searching for the easiest way down to the water table.
|
|
Over long periods of time a cave system is formed
|
|
draining the plateau.
|
|
|
|
The position of the water table then begins to affect
|
|
the formation of the cave. As long as the water table
|
|
is beneath the surface, water will percolate down along
|
|
the easiest route, defined by the structure of the rock
|
|
itself. The actual form of the water table will itself
|
|
be dependent on the permeability of the rock - small
|
|
and irregular joints will form the water table into a
|
|
dome shape before the pressure of water is sufficient
|
|
to produce lateral movement; conversely, if the joints
|
|
have been enlarged by solution (i.e. a cave system
|
|
exists) the water will escape rapidly producing an
|
|
almost flat water table.
|
|
|
|
In Sonnenstrahlhohle there are four levels at which
|
|
horizontal cave development has occurred. The entrance
|
|
series results from the direct action of the surface
|
|
water in its original pre-glacial pattern flowing into
|
|
the fault and searching for the easiest way down. Down
|
|
in fact to the second level of horizontal activity at
|
|
around 1600 metres, at which level a large chamber with
|
|
side phreatic passages has formed. This is the same
|
|
level as the horizontal entrance series found in
|
|
Stellerweg (see surveys).
|
|
|
|
(It should be noted that the angle of the elevation for
|
|
the 113 survey does not demonstrate the extent of the
|
|
horizontal development. For a better picture see plan
|
|
of 113, Cambridge Underground 1981.)
|
|
|
|
The series of shafts that dissect the horizontal route
|
|
from above and continuing below, are the later routes
|
|
formed by water percolating down from the denuded
|
|
limestone surface to the much reduced water table below
|
|
these abandonded upper phreatic sections. By this
|
|
stage the surface drainage pattern has disappeared and
|
|
the cave has become a collector of water from numerous
|
|
sources rather than its original stream route. The
|
|
horizontal phreatic tube 'entrance' to Stellerweg is a
|
|
long-abandoned resurgence.
|
|
|
|
At 1600 metres, therefore, Sonnenstrahlhohle has become
|
|
a collector for waters searching for the water table
|
|
which, following the advance of the neighbouring valley
|
|
glacier, has been greatly lowered. The cave enters a
|
|
vertical phase, a large shaft enlarged by spray action,
|
|
until it reaches 1500 metres at a very jagged broken
|
|
floor with an immature stream outlet and a small
|
|
meandering phreatic tube opening once more onto an
|
|
enormous shaft section - this has no apparent
|
|
equivalent in Stellerweg (perhaps it can be attributed
|
|
to a localized change in the character of the rock).
|
|
The termination of the next vertical section is,
|
|
however, directly reflected in Stellerweg at 1400
|
|
metres. There is considerable horizontal development
|
|
in Stellerweg at this level which has not been explored
|
|
as yet, but suggests the possibility of a link with
|
|
Sonnenstrahlhohle because of the abandoned phreatic
|
|
development evident there also and an apparent
|
|
continuation of that section, unfortunately blocked by
|
|
boulders at present. The complex phreatic entrance
|
|
series to 115 is also located at this level. This is
|
|
obviously the level of the water table following the
|
|
first major invasion of ice in this area. The large,
|
|
now abandoned, phreatic cave passages developed during
|
|
a period of stability during and after the retreat of
|
|
the ice, emerging as tubes of varying sizes from the
|
|
valley sides. These holes are, however, now perched
|
|
several hundred metres up the sheer slopes. Following
|
|
a further advance of the ice which brought about a
|
|
further severe reduction of the valley floor and thus
|
|
the water table, in Stellerweg and 115 we find a
|
|
further phreatic level developed extensively at 1200
|
|
metres, at which a tortuous streamway meanders at a
|
|
gentle incline before descending in a further series of
|
|
pitches.
|
|
|
|
It is interesting to make a comparison between these
|
|
closely related caves, and it is also interesting to
|
|
note (see map, section and surveys) the apparent direct
|
|
relationship of the development of Eislufthohle to the
|
|
features of the caves at the edge of the massif some
|
|
two kilometres away to the north. It is clear that
|
|
Eislufthohle has a level of horizontal, if not
|
|
distinctly phreatic, development at around 1400 metres
|
|
- the same as in Stellerweg and Sonnenstrahlhohle. If
|
|
these levels defining stages of development of the
|
|
caves correspond directly, the resultant very flat
|
|
water table suggests a veritable network of caves
|
|
sending water rushing away to the edges of the
|
|
limestone. Further the level of the sump in
|
|
Eislufthohle compares with the phreatic level around
|
|
1200 metres in Stellerweg.
|
|
.ensure 5
|
|
.BLANK
|
|
CONCLUSIONS
|
|
|
|
The indications are that, considering its close
|
|
proximity and similarity of development to Stellerweg,
|
|
Sonnenstrahlhohle should continue to a depth
|
|
approaching that of Stellerweg and may well join it.
|
|
The doubts raised are whether the next section, the
|
|
first in fact in the cave, of wet and awkward streamway
|
|
will lead to the head of a shaft, as has already
|
|
happened in Stellerweg. Clearly the streamway does not
|
|
end immediately as it did not back up in its
|
|
constricted passage in flood conditions, and there was
|
|
still a strong draught at this level. With progress
|
|
down to this point being relatively straightforward, a
|
|
further visit seems imperative.
|
|
|
|
The question of Eislufthohle is an interesting one.
|
|
Depending on the point of view, two different
|
|
conclusions may be drawn: if the cave ends at 115O
|
|
metres, the water table is domed and there will be no
|
|
hope of deeper caves in that area. If the development
|
|
of the cave is directly related to the falls in the
|
|
water- table as seen in Stellerweg then the water table
|
|
is very flat and further depth should be possible, the
|
|
sump therefore being a perched one. Reference to the
|
|
other major discoveries in the area and the levels at
|
|
which they terminate (see surveys) suggests,
|
|
tantalisingly, that it is only a question of finding a
|
|
way through an apparent end, no matter how obscure (as
|
|
demonstrated on two occasions in Sonnenstrahlhohle).
|
|
Other routes in Eislufthohle have never been pushed to
|
|
a conclusion, but will anyone ever go back?
|
|
|
|
Any comment on the state of Stellerweg may seem
|
|
obvious, however it would seem likely that a further
|
|
2OO metres should be added to its depth (down to the
|
|
neighbouring lake level of 712 metres). The extent of
|
|
the phreatic development threatens to be vast, the
|
|
hillside quite honeycombed with cave passage (as
|
|
predicted in Cvijic's erosion cycle). If the water
|
|
table is flat, there should be passages heading away
|
|
into the mountain, carrying the waters from the
|
|
plateau.
|
|
|
|
Finally, the intriguing question of cave draughts
|
|
often raised its head in discussion in Austria. Almost
|
|
all the caves that we have explored in the area have
|
|
had powerful draughts emanating from the entrance;
|
|
Sonnenstrahlhohle, however, had a distinct inward
|
|
draught at the entrance, reverting to outward at around
|
|
the 16OO metre level. In winter, the cave apparently
|
|
sends clouds of snow billowing up from the entrance as
|
|
the relatively warm cave air rises (as substantiated by
|
|
our local contact on a ski trip). It would be expected
|
|
that the other entrances draught inwards in winter as
|
|
the air is drawn up through the cave system. The
|
|
obvious conclusion is that Sonnenstrahlhohle is the top
|
|
entrance to the whole system. If this is the case and
|
|
Sonnenstrahlhohle can be connected to the Stellerweg
|
|
system, there is the possibility of achieving a 1OOO
|
|
metre cave - unless fears of the cave joining
|
|
Nagelsteghohle prove justified.
|
|
.ensure 5
|
|
.BLANK
|
|
REFERENCES
|
|
|
|
Studies in Physical Geography, ed. K.J. Gregory, Dawson
|
|
Publishing Periglacial Processes and Environments, A.L.
|
|
Washburn Arnold The Geology of Western Europe, M.G.
|
|
Rutten, Elsevier Jurassic Environments, A. Hallam,
|
|
Cambridge Earth Science Series Geomorphology and
|
|
Climate, ed. E. Derbyshire, John Wiley and Sons
|
|
Weathering, Geomorphology, Text 2, C.D. Ollier
|
|
Structural Geomorphology, J. Tricart
|
|
Geomorphology, B.W. Sparks, Longman
|
|
|
|
For detailed surveys see Cambridge Underground from
|
|
1978 onwards, which will give more details of the caves
|
|
mentioned above as well as other smaller discoveries.
|
|
.blank 2
|
|
$e Tony Malcolm
|
|
[end TOTES]
|
|
[begin ----- VERCORS -----]
|
|
.newpage
|
|
$c EXPEDITION TO VERCORS 1981
|
|
|
|
It was all very well in theory, a three-week limestone
|
|
holiday to the French Vercors in August as key members
|
|
of Hull University's expedition to the Scialet de Combe
|
|
de Fer. Simon Farrow and I nodded approvingly as Iain
|
|
Crossley put us forward to HUSS in the New Inn as
|
|
experienced veterans of innumerable expeditions. And so
|
|
we were able to spot a good meal at a mile and a nasty
|
|
cave from ten.
|
|
|
|
In return HUSS assured us that Combe de Fer wasn't,
|
|
despite being deep and bristling with pitches. It had
|
|
been surveyed, scrappily, and HUSS planned to resurvey
|
|
it all, push all the extremities and hack away at the
|
|
200m drop to the resurgence at Goule Blanche. Four day
|
|
underground camps, prepacked man/cave/day food units,
|
|
the lot.
|
|
|
|
"No problem", declared Iain, examining his third beer
|
|
from under his sunhat, as we sat outside the cafe on
|
|
our way up to the campsite for the first time. "We'll
|
|
just mosey down this pot, whip through the surveying,
|
|
poke about a bit, then back to the food and drink. No
|
|
idea about Continental caving, these people".
|
|
|
|
Then we hit the campsite. First disaster - after an
|
|
hour's search, Iain and I could find no hot showers. Or
|
|
cold showers. Or water supply. Or any facilities at
|
|
all. Good God, here's a caver washing mud out of his
|
|
hair in a bucket! Simon alone was unpeturbed. For three
|
|
weeks he stoically caved in his pyjamas; or slept in
|
|
his playing-out clothes; or strolled around town in his
|
|
caving grots. Just a matter of semantics, clothes
|
|
sense.
|
|
|
|
Second disaster - behind the caver with his head in the
|
|
bucket lurked the Food and Operations Tent. Ah, la vie
|
|
gastronomique! Exotic salads, piquant sauces, rampant
|
|
cheeses, subtle wines...... What the hell's this? Boxes
|
|
of bran, nuts, seven varieties of lentils, baked beans,
|
|
more baked beans, tins of divers soya forgeries and
|
|
even a jar of vegetarian Bovril. In the corner an open
|
|
bottle of Algerian Chateau Chunder sulked rancidly. The
|
|
whole club was vegetarian! I began to whimper.
|
|
|
|
The worst disaster was the cave. Late the next day - it
|
|
was an hour's walk to the Combe de Fer entrance - we
|
|
found the HUSS vanguard party struggling back up the
|
|
300m rubble slope. They croaked a desperate tale of
|
|
muddy pitches, muddy rebelays, long tight muddy rifts,
|
|
loose muddy boulders and, further down, a flood-liable
|
|
and muddy streamway. We were appalled. Day two and two
|
|
of us decided it would be pushing the boat out too far
|
|
to have anything more to do with it. Simon did risk
|
|
three trips but wished he hadn't.
|
|
|
|
On day three the rest of HUSS arrived in the Grunge
|
|
Bus, four days after setting off. This detuned
|
|
abomination had once been a bread van, which CUMC its
|
|
then owners had taken to Afghanistan two engines ago.
|
|
The detune was a challenge to Iain on the rare
|
|
occasions he managed to collar the keys: he was
|
|
frequently admonished by the notorious X for pushing it
|
|
over 30 mph.
|
|
|
|
(X was clearly The Leader. A self-made man, I
|
|
concluded: no-one who knew what they were about could
|
|
have got so many parts in the wrong place. And a
|
|
natural leader - an NPC caver on holiday bumped into a
|
|
HUSS member he knew and asked innocently "Is he with
|
|
you, too?", seeing X for the first time. "No",
|
|
corrected X, puffing out what could have been his
|
|
chest, "He's with ME!" Later that evening, after a
|
|
hearty meal out, Simon quizzed that worthy on Becoming
|
|
a Leader. Well, Simon swayed about while two bottles of
|
|
wine conducted the interview. Wine in such a container
|
|
loses all subtlety and X became so stumped for an
|
|
answer that he retired to his tent to think of one. For
|
|
a whole day. After a fortnight of us he could be made
|
|
to crawl away from the circle of cheery laughter round
|
|
the night bonfire and lie in the grass, sobbing.)
|
|
|
|
So instead of Combe de Fer we occupied ourselves in the
|
|
many excellent tourist caves up and down the 500m deep
|
|
limestone gorge of the Bourne. The Grotte de Gournier,
|
|
a spectacular 100m swim across a deep blue entrance
|
|
lake to a climb up a 10m stal dome. Then 1.5km of dry
|
|
stomping, followed by an OFD type streamway which we
|
|
had time for only a little of. The Bournillon,
|
|
reputedly the largest entrance in Europe, normally dry
|
|
but with a hydroelectric station just for when it
|
|
floods! Inside, a huge and interminable stomping
|
|
passage 20m square containing not a single loose
|
|
object, everything moveable having been shot out of the
|
|
entrance in flood. An hour or so later Iain and I
|
|
concluded we weren't Big Passage Men after all and
|
|
scurried out, apparently just short of the end. Simon
|
|
had already decided he couldn't hold his breath above
|
|
an hour and lay outside watching the clouds.
|
|
|
|
Cuves de Sassenage, the Berger resurgence. A
|
|
fascinating showcave, superbly lit. We found out too
|
|
late about the leadership system for the extensive
|
|
interior. The Berger. Well, to the bottom of the first
|
|
pitch - we strolled over and polished it off one
|
|
afternoon. Plus various odds and ends: Grotte de Deux
|
|
Soeurs, Favot, La Glaciere, Grotte des Gaulois. We
|
|
would have done the Grotte Merveilleuse Superieure too,
|
|
if my trifling map reading error hadn't brought us to
|
|
within a few yards but six hundred feet above it.
|
|
|
|
In between, swimming, sunbathing and lots of superb
|
|
ridgewalking at 6-8000 feet, and of course our Ascent
|
|
of Mont Blanc. We did plan to climb the last 4000 feet
|
|
until we stepped out of the telepherique and were
|
|
boggled by it. Instead we took a telecabin over to the
|
|
Italian border, which it did in two dizzy half-mile
|
|
swoops dangling us hundreds of feet above rock and ice.
|
|
Quite the most frightening experience on offer in
|
|
Europe (barring Majorcan brothels).
|
|
|
|
Sadly all this ceaseless activity failed to impress
|
|
HUSS. Night after night we would toil back to the
|
|
campsite, reeking of wine and meat, to find them
|
|
huddled in the Veg Tent over a bowl of lentils and a
|
|
guttering candle (leather sandals in neat rows
|
|
outside), and try to cheer them up with tales of the
|
|
big world outside Combe de Fer, but nothing worked: not
|
|
even the 1040FR restaurant bill we brought back once
|
|
could raise their spirits. Eventually they stopped
|
|
talking to us altogether. Culture shock, no doubt.
|
|
|
|
So we never did find out what happened on our
|
|
expedition.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
.blank
|
|
$e Andrew Nichols
|
|
[end VERCORS]
|
|
[begin ----- WALES -----]
|
|
.newpage
|
|
$c THE WELSH 3000'S
|
|
.blank
|
|
Long ago, walking used to be fun - a pleasant relief
|
|
from caving. However, EXCS can turn a gentle stroll
|
|
across the fells into a ferocious competition in which
|
|
all you see is the blur of a fast-changing view, seen
|
|
through bloodshot eyes as you struggle to keep up with
|
|
the hunched, crazed figure bounding through the bogs
|
|
ahead of you. It's then that you start to wonder if you
|
|
are really enjoying yourself.
|
|
The traditional Easter meet in North Wales was, as
|
|
usual, held in sunshine and shorts weather (traditional
|
|
means we went last year as well). Conditions looked
|
|
perfect for our planned assault on the Welsh 3000's. So
|
|
6 a.m. one April morning saw Tony, Andy and me starting
|
|
up Foel Fras, the first of the fourteen 3000 foot
|
|
peaks. Simon had volunteered to act as the support
|
|
party, plying us with lemonade and sticky cakes at the
|
|
roadside. Being the most experienced walker, he
|
|
couldn't imagine why anyone should want to "do" all the
|
|
peaks in one day. One or two, yes, but not fourteen.
|
|
No one else is in sight as we silently climb the first
|
|
long slope. There is just the view across to the coast,
|
|
the hillside stretching upwards and the morning sun. It
|
|
is all very simple. Just keep going for the next
|
|
fourteen hours - admire the view, stop to eat, and
|
|
another challenge conquered. We are soon on the summit
|
|
and you can see the walk ahead. The rounded Carnedds in
|
|
the foreground - they should be easy. Then the rocky
|
|
outline of Tryfan and the Glyders. Snowdon looks a long
|
|
way off. Surely we can't walk all that distance, but we
|
|
know we will.
|
|
The sun disappears in cloud and we are soon walking by
|
|
compass. Now there's only grey mist swirling around the
|
|
bogs. The summits come and go and look just like any
|
|
other lonely, foggy fell in the Dales. But just as we
|
|
start to worry about the cloud slowing us down, it all
|
|
clears. Below is Llyn Ogwen and a rapid descent sees us
|
|
joining the Easter crowds in the valley. We feel very
|
|
righteous as we pass the ice cream van and mingle with
|
|
the hordes trekking up Tryfan - they have only just
|
|
started but we have done a good day's walking already.
|
|
We insist on overtaking everyone. A brief halt on top,
|
|
sharing a boulder with one of the school parties and on
|
|
up Glyder Fach. Halfway now, and it feels like it. We
|
|
plod over the Glyders, following in the stream of
|
|
walkers. The final grind up Elidir Fawr nearly finishes
|
|
us. We sit and look and think.
|
|
It's not far now - just another ten miles and 3000
|
|
feet of ascent. Wouldn't it be better to lie here
|
|
admiring the view and then amble down the valley in
|
|
time for tea. Yes, says Tony. But Andy and I have no
|
|
will power. We run off down into Llanberis Pass, stride
|
|
up the road and along the path to Crib Goch. Then on to
|
|
Snowdon and it's all over. We have done the Welsh
|
|
3000's but we still don't know why. I wonder what
|
|
flower collecting is like ?
|
|
.blank
|
|
$e John Bowers
|
|
[end WALES]
|