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<title>1623:40</title>
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<center><table border=0 width=100%>
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<tr><th align=left><font size=+2>40 a b c d e f g</font></th>
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<th align=center><font size=+2>Schwarzmooskogeleishöhle</font></th>
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<th align=right><font size=+2>3/S/T/E x</font></th></tr>
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</table></center>
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<p>Altitudes : (from old kataster)<menu>
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<li>40a Oberer Eingang 1690m
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<li>40b Schneeschacht 1683m
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<li>40c Reichenvaterschacht 1635m
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<li>40d Unterer Eingang 1645m
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<br> (Eismadonna-Thalhammerhöhle)
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<li>40e Brennerbeselschluf 1643m
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<li>40f Königsschachts 1689m
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<li>40g Einstieg zur Hans Pfandl-Halle (close to
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Lerchenschacht)
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<li>40h Eistunnel(Elephant) 1635m
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<li>40s Grüer Eingang 1652m<br>
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Other SMKHS entrances:
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<li>40i Lärchenschacht
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<li>40j Stellerweghöhle
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<li>40k Stellerweghöhle
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<li>40l Stellerweghöhle (?)
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<li>40m Schnellzughöhle
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<li>40n Schwa-Schacht 142
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<li>40o Schwaben-Schachthöhle-Eingang a
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<li>40p Schwaben-Schachthöhle-Eingang b
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<li>40q Schwaben-Schachthöhle-Eingang c
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<li>40r Schwaben-Schachthöhle-Eingang d
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</menu>
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<p>Laser rangefinding puts an entrance (which we believe is 40a - the
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highest) at E 36458.2 N (52)81700.4 H 1689.5
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<p><b>Location:</b> SSE of Vd. Schwarzmooskogel and ENE of a large basin in
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the hillside which often contains a lot of snow. Roughly a 450m NNE
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of <a href="../../smkridge/113.htm">Sonnenstrahlhöhle</a> - CUCC's
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furthest east permanent survey station.
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<p><b>Approach:</b> From the Bergrestaurant, take path 201, ignoring the
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left turn to the plateau at Egglgrube. Pass the junction path left to
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Kratzer and continue until a red upper-case Omega is seen in the middle of
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the path, marking Kat. 28 (we think).
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<p>There is a well-marked (cairns and red paint spots/arrows) branch path
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here. Follow this for about half an hour to the back of the limestone knoll
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known as "The Nipple" (and Weisse Warz and bunter's bulge). Things to
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note: first there is a wire traverse then you pass the lightninged tree in
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a sizeable valley. (Opposite this tree is the point you would turn left for
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Schwabenscacht). Shortly after that a pair of red arrows point in opposite
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directions. Go steeply uphill here doubling back slightly, rather than
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the more obvious straight on. Turn right about 40m beyond the nipple and head across the limestone for a narrow gully. After a hundred metres or so
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new red paint marks appear and take you to 40a.
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<p>A very large cave entrance, 20 minutes further on, was the German's
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(Munich) bivouac, and a few minutes later, a strongly draughting (out in
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summer) tube about 5m in diameter is the main entrance ("Hauptportal" -
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40a). This was also the site of an old French bivouac, but must have
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been very cold. Continue along past some big holes and slightly downhill
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(one 5m step down). After about 180m(?) you reach the area of numerous
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entrances in a row There is the small Grüner Eingang (40s), 2 larger
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entrances ('Eistunnel' and 'Nichts50'), a small blocked entrance , and
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finally, where the path ends abruptly and unambiguously the "new"
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entrance (40e, Brennerbeserlschluf), also strongly draughting. This is
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between one and a half and two hours from the car park.
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<h3>Overview:</h3>
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<p>Schwarzmooskogeleishöhle is an extensive cave over 1600m long before
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1983, extended to 2500m by a German group by 1985. The system is mainly
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horizontal, though tackle is needed to explore it fully, and crampons are
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necessary in parts, because of the substantial quantities of ice in the
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cave. Was extended by the Germans who work in the area in the early eighties,
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who suggested then that there was potential for extension vertically.
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Subsequently linked via a 30m pitch to
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<a href="88.htm">Lärchenschacht</a> (1623/88) which in turn was
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connected to the
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<a href="../../smkridge/41.htm">Stellerweghöhlensystem</a>, giving no
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increase in depth if the laser-rangefound altitude is correct rather than the
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old kataster one, which seems likely.
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<h4>Translated brief guide</h4>
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<p>From 'Längsten und Tiefsten Hohlen in Österreich', translated
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by Wookey and Thilo:
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<p>The cave is on the southeastern slopes of the Vorderen Schwarzmooskogel
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(1843) developed in Dachsteinkalk. From seven partly shaft-like entrance
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points, a huge, flat-floored level with impressive ice formations can be
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approached. The <b>Schneevulkanhalle</b> at the northern end is the biggest
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ice-bearing chamber in middle Europe.
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<p>Four entrances lead into the central area. A 40m shaft from the Top
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Entrance '<b>Oberen Eingang</b>' breaks into the ice-decorated '<b>Altausseer
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Halle</b>'. To the west from here via a 25m ramp accessing
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'<b>Schneehalle</b>' leads both to entrance 2 and the connecting gallery from
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the ice-bearing '<b>Thalhammerhalle</b>', that can be entered from entrances
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3 and 4 too. South of the Schnee and Altausseer Halles, the '<b>Teufelberger
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Halle</b>' connects, the bottom of which contains an ice lake. A wide passage
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with side shafts goes southsouthwest to '<b>Hans-Pfandl-Halle</b>'. The east
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connected room, also reached by a 23m high chimney (entrance 7), is divided
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into two by a high block barrier. The '<b>Flusstunnel</b>' south from here
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ends blocked.
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<p>From the Altausseer Halle, a lofty passage with ice figures heads off NNE.
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The continuation is the '<b>Halle des Schiefen Turms</b>', where the
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'<b>Wahnsinnschächte</b>' branches off on the west. It was thought that
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this was blocked by ice. However, over a wall of ice one reaches the 130 by
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75 by 50 m Schneevulkanhalle, on the eastern wall of which rises a steep
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snowslope flowing from the '<b>Koenigsschachts</b>' (entrance 6). The chamber
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with its very impressive ice formations can also be reached via the
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'<b>Brennerbeselschluf</b>' (entrance 5). At its northern end a climb reveals
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the easterly-running '<b>Kalten Gang</b>' and the parallel
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'<b>Spinnenfriedhof</b>'.
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<h3><a name="svh">Schneevulkanhalle</a> trip:</h3>
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<p>The principal objective of both pushing and tourist trips is the huge ice
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chamber of Schneevulkanhalle, which requires some serious ice work
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to reach from the older entrances in the middle of the system. Instead,
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follow the description to the "new" entrance (Brennerbeselschluf, 40e), with
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a somewhat limited area to get changed, perched between the icy blast from
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the cave and whatever the Austrian weather is offering.
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<p>The entrance is not walk-in, and low crawling in the face of the icy
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draught starts at once. A small descending tube (somewhat muddy - irritating
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in crampons!) leads in about 20m to a short climb down into larger (walking/stooping) passage 'Geröllgang. This goes downhill to a scramble up.
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This was totally ice-covered in 1997 and 1998, but not 1999 or 2000 and
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has a <a href="../../fixaid.htm#icy">fixed rope</a> (VfHO-installed),
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which may be buried in ice at somewhat critical points - a certain amount
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of care is needed if chipping it out with an ice-axe and gloves really
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are needed !
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<p>Partway up this slope is a space on the left
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[<a href="../../smkridge/40/qm.htm#C000040-05"
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name="qC000040-05">C0000-40-05</a> A], including a pitch in the floor.
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At the far end of this space, a short crawl and a grovel down through
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boulders where a stream comes in from above both choke. The pitch is a
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c3, p20, p30 - the last part being very wet in early summer. Leading to
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<A HREF="#schotterland">Schotterland</A>.
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<p>Survey data also suggests a passage off to the right of the iceslope
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for 20m or so.
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<p>Above the scramble up is a short traverse, also rather interesting when
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covered in hard ice (and also protected by a fixed rope which had to be dug
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out in 1998). A steeply ascending passage to the L holds a quantity of
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particularly scrofulous rope (presumably a previous fixed rope). This can be climbed ~10m until it gets too vertical. It draughts. Beyond the ice is a
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steep snow/ice slope down into the huge Schneevulkanhalle. It is
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<b>strongly</b> recommended to equip this with a properly rigged SRT rope
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rather than anything less - the cave has seen a number of accidents, some
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<b>fatal</b>. Although the slope looks like soft snow, it is a layer of
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coarsely crystalline hard névé over solid ice. In parts it is
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almost impossible to kick steps into, whilst in others it offers only
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minimal purchase for crampon points. Conditions no doubt vary with the
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season as well as with position on the slope and the year. Tackle
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required: 50m rope, crampons. There is one bolt at the top, for a
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traverse line to two bolts off to the R in the roof where the snow-slope
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proper starts. Sometimes the traverse area is full of snow and an
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ice-screw or ice-axe rebelay/deviation (club first ? in 1989) may be
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needed. A deviation (from rock) at the head of the steep section was
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found adequate in 1998.
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<p><center><img alt="plan - 12k gif" width=600 height=540 src="i/40svh.png"></center>
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<p> The 50m Koenigschacht (40f) entrance is the source of the snow slope
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and comes in here. It is often full of snow but was open in 1999 and so
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was surveyed (by ARGE).
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<p>At the bottom is the main chamber from which the pitch does indeed look
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like a snow-covered volcanic cone. Most of the floor area is ice-covered and
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only a slight slope is necessary to make crampons vital here. Most of the
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chamber is filled with ice formations up to 15m high (end of season). Those
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with two ice-tools can climb almost anything in the chamber, though the
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formations are no doubt rather more spectacular and fragile in spring or
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early summer. Formation-ice can also shatter very easily as melting occurs
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between component crystals later in the season, so it is probably safer for
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climbers to stick to hard névé. Ways on are mostly reached by
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steeper slopes that definitely require ice-gear and can be quite unnerving
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approached from above. Note that the slopes are usually <b>hard</b> ice,
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ice-axe-braking after a slip is not an option - lifeline or don't fall !
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<p><center><a href="l/istal.htm"><img alt="Photo of ice formations, 41k jpeg"
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width=150 height=200 src="t/istal.jpg"></a></center>
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<p>Starting from the pitch (facing outwards from the slope), heading round
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the chamber to the left leads over a large flat area of ice to where a gap
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between ice and rock [<a href="../../smkridge/40/qm.htm#C000040-01"
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name="qC000040-01">C0000-40-01</a> A] drops 10m (2 bolts, one added 1999)
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into large passage <A HREF="../../smkridge/40/cucc.htm#elephant">elephantengang</A>.
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<p>Right next to it is an icefall coming in from above
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[<a href="../../smkridge/40/qm.htm#C000040-02"
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name="qC000040-02">C0000-40-02</a> C] (Apparently explored by GSCB in early 80s for ~40m). 40m round the wall of the chamber is a rubble run-in, iced on the top half. This was climbed by Haines (1998) and Atkinson (1999), as well as the GSCB. At the top is a wet boulder choke that definately doesn't go, but the GSCB plan shows a narrow rift on the right markwd 'tight'.
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<p>Halfway up this slope on the left is the narrow entrance to <a href="../../smkridge/40/cucc.htm#pov">Persistence of Vision</a>.
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<p>20m further round another couple of icefalls come in. Both are about
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8-10m and vertical [<a href="../../smkridge/40/qm.htm#C000040-03"
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name="qC000040-03">C0000-40-03</a> A]. GSCB plan shows they have climbed
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up here to find a 20m pitch beyond into narrow rift - presumably choked
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or too tight.
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<p>50m further round (downslope) the ice drops away steeply under the
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wall. A line is advisable for the descent. 20m down, the ice slope peters
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out giving way to sand and rocks. At the end here is a very strongly
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draughting hole [<a href="../../smkridge/40/qm.htm#C000040-04"
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name="qC000040-04">C0000-40-04</a> B]. This appears too tight, but survey
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data shows this is where Kalten Gang and Spinnefriedhof are (VfHM, 1984).
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To the right at the foot of the slope closes down with rocks and ice - it
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would probably connect with Plastic Hell. A few metres up from the bottom
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of the slope on the left hand (N) wall is a gap between the ice and rock
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leading into a large chamber [<a href="qm.htm#A199840-05"
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name="qA199840-05">A1998-40-05</a> B] (reported by Robert Winkler).
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<p>Back in Schneevulkanhalle, another 10m clockwise round the chamber is
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another, steeper iceslope. A rope is definitely needed for this. This
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is the way to <a href="../../smkridge/40/cucc.htm#phell">Plastic Hell.</a>
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<p>Beyond and above are more thin icefalls coming from high in the
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ceiling - trying to climb these would be bonkers - the debris from the
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collapse of some of them is all around.
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<h2><a name="schotterland">Schotterland</a> (Munich cavers 198? and ARGE 2000)</h2>
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<p>The foot of the piss-wet pitch opens out into very large triangular
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passage. You can go NE about 35m until it chokes (a good draught comes
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out of one hoplessly choked corner) or SW 20 to a T-junction. Right (W)
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is Kleiner keller. Left, ducking under the low wall, is Schotterland.
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<p>Kleiner keller is about 50m on huge passage to where the end is choked
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with glacial fill and a waterspout comes in the from the roof 3m up. A
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sling ladder makes it possible to ascend the waterspout - you can even
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doing it without getting very wet, as the spout is unusually
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well-concentrated, and thus avoidable. This comes into an E-W rift, with
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the water coming from the E end. It can be ascended in both directions at
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various traverse levels for about 30m, but the top appears choked at all
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points. The top is probably very close to the floor of
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Elephantengang.</p>
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<p>The old Munich cavers' data suggests that there is a passage off
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kleiner keller that we missed - which seems hard to believe, but maybe it
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is worth another visit?</p>
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<p>Schotterland is more enormous passage (10m wide) going SSE, presumably
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schotterland, due to the flooring of small rocks. A ramp goes up steeply
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on the L after 30m. It closes down after 40m. Ahead the passage slowly
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narrows until it chokes at the end - probably very close to the surface.</p>
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<hr>
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<p><b>Exploration:</b> The main passages as far as Elephantengang were
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explored by 1938. Since then a variety of groups have worked here finding
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numerous extensions, of which Schneevulkanhalle is the most
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significant.<P> Until recently, it has been difficult to come close to a
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comprehensive survey or even a good estimate of the length of the system
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because of a lack of contact and some misunderstanding between the groups
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involved. However, in 1997 a chance encounter (at the International
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Congress) by Wookey with Denis Motte, of the <a
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href="../../others/gscb/index.htm">G.S.Clerval,</a> led to renewed
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contacts with one group who explored this area, and Thilo Müller or
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ARGE has contacted the leaders of other groups and obtained all the rest
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of the 1980s information that survives. This is being merged into a
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coherent set of information which will guide necessary resurvey work to
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complete the picture.
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<p><b>Exploration:</b>
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<ul>
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<li>Discovered and main passages explored in 1929 by Ausseer cavers, and surveyed in 1938 by O Schauberger and U Czornig.
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<li>Further exploration 1953, Sektion Ausseerland.
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<li>Wilfried Lorenz, Franz Lindenmayr with Nuremburg and Munich cavers
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discover the Schneevulkanhalle at the beginning of July 1978 (not yet
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connected to Eishöhle).
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<li>In Autumn 1983, Eishöhle was "1600m long with four entrances".
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<li>After several trips by the Germans in
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September to November 1983, the system was 2500m long with five entrances
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[<a href="../../others/muenchen/de/841642.htm" lang="de">Der Schlaz, 42</a>,
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also on site in
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<a href="../../others/muenchen/en/841642.htm">English translation</a>].
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<li>More recently, Reinhard Kieselbach's (München/Nurnberg - VfHM) group
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have linked it to <a href="88.htm">Lärchenschacht</a> (88) (itself
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1885m long in April 1995, and apparently giving a combined length of 6km)
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which they also connected to <a
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href="../../smkridge/41.htm">Stellerweghöhle</a> (5.75 km).
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<li>Our Current estimate of the cave length is 1,863km, from a total surveyed length of 2,463m (600m of the 974m long Schneevulkanhalle survey is not
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deemed to be part of the cave length).<br>
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The length comes from:<br>
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VfHM 1980s survey - 693m: Original part of cave plus extensions<br>
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VfHO 1991 survey - 374m: Schneevulkanhalle from 40e entrance<br>
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CUCC 1998-9 surveys - 751m: Heaven and Hell and persitence of vision SVH extensions<br>
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Arge 1999 surveys - 130m: Königsschat and Grüner Eingang
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</ul>
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<p>Stellerweghöhle in turn is connected to
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<a href="../../smkridge/78.htm">Schwabenschacht</a> which was over 7km at the
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time and exploration continues. This must make the combined system at least
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19 km long. We have seen figures quoted as high as 25km, but this may involve
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some double-counting, given the uncertainties involved. Arge's estimate
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(entirely from extant survey data) was 22.7 km after summer 1999.
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<hr>
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<!-- LINKS -->
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<img alt=">" src="../../../icons/lists/0.png">
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<a href="../../smkridge/index.htm#40">Schwarzmooskogel area</a>
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index and description<br>
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<img alt=">" src="../../../icons/lists/0.png">
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<a href="../../indxal.htm">Full Index</a> to caves<br>
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<img alt=">" src="../../../icons/lists/0.png">
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<a href="../../areas.htm">Other areas</a> in 1623<br>
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<img alt=">" src="../../../icons/lists/0.png">
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<a href="../../index.htm">Back to Expedition Intro page</a><br>
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