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175 lines
10 KiB
Plaintext
It's at this point that I realise that there is a huge amount of written stuff,
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but no good introduction in the archives. However ...
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> And what took you down to Austria in 1977?
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The story goes back a long way. In the early seventies or maybe even late
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sixties, there was a caver named Nick Reckert, who was British, but had an
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American passport, and lived in France. He caved with the Spéléo Club de
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Rouen, who visited the Gouffre de Pierre St. Martin area in the Pyrenees
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every summer. Later, he became a member of the Cambridge University Caving
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Club, who thus had a very good intro to the rather elaborate beaurocracy of
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ARSIP, who control expeditions in the area. CUCC went to the Pyrenees for
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several summers, but eventually found the 'organisation' sufficiently
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oppressive that they felt they should look for their 'own' area.
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Austria was just becoming known (in the UK) as a country with a huge amount
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of limestone and comparatively few cavers to explore it. Apparently Austrian
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cavers welcomed the help of experienced cavers from elsewhere to help them
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in their own explorations. [It should be noted at this point that the attitude
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is very different today]. Consequently, members of CUCC wrote to the Austrian
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National caving organisation (in Vienna) asking for contacts. The National
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organisation suggested about three areas, with appropriate contacts. One of
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these areas was the Dachstein, where the caving was very expeditionary, with
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a high camp set up by helicopter at the start of the expedition each year.
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This seemed a little more serious than CUCC (used to heavy post-caving drinking)
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had in mind. The deepest new exploration in the Pyrenees had been about -500m,
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so they weren't looking for 1500m potential...
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The area which seemed to hold most promise was the Loser-AugstEck plateau,
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at that time the stomping ground of just three active cavers of the Sektion
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Ausseerland of the Landesverein fur Höhlenkunde in Steiermark. None of these
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cavers were macho vertical types, and all were quite keen to have outsiders
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come and help explore the more vertical systems. A toll-road up to 1600m had
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just been built, making the area much more accessible than previously. The
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vertical potential looked like about 900m - perhaps more if you were
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optimistic. Contact was made with Karl Gaisberger and Gunther Graf, and a
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reconnaissance expedition went out in 1976. CUCC helped explore a cave found
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the previous autumn by Karl, and this proved an interesting, though modest,
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vertical system just on the edge of the plateau at 'The Col'. CUCC was also
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invited into a few things out of the area, such as Nagelsteghöhle (a major
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resurgence for caves to the NE of CUCC's area) and Hirlatzhöhle (a major
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fossil cave at the bottom of the Dachstein massif).
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Only a small amount of prospecting was done in 1976, but enough was seen to
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be sure that a return was worthwhile. Maybe at this stage I had better point
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out that expeditions in those days were essentially organised by graduates
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who had been in CUCC as undergraduates, so they were really exCS
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(ex-Cambridge Speleogists) rather than CUCC expos. In 1977, a return was
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planned, and those CUCC undergraduates who had shown themselves competant
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during the year were invited to join. This basically meant three of us at
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the end of our second year in the club went out for three weeks. At that
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time, Single Rope Technique was hardly used at all in the UK, and only
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expedition veterans from the Pyrenees were really into it. Hence 'Team
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Youth' were exploring on ladders.
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That tells you how we started, and how I came to be there in 1977. In 1978,
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the same three undergraduates, plus a few more, did all the organising for
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the expedition. Our cave Eislufthöhle, which had reached -150m on ladders
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in 1977, was pushed to c -350m on SRT, while another cave, Gamshöhle, was
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explored mainly on ladders, but bottomed at -280m via a large SRT pitch.
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As usual, many smaller caves were explored. 1979 saw a very small team
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push Eislufthöhle to -506m (best estimate by some very minimalist surveying).
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In 1980, we tried to change venue to the Tennengebirge, but by this time, the
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permissions situation was much more difficult, most especially in this area,
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which is a military reserve. We moved base back to Altaussee. It so happens
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that the area I had picked out as the one to go to in the Tennengebirge,
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produced a 1250m cave, which was already being explored in 1980. Having
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done the walk in to this area, I can be very pleased that we didn't get
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involved in it - it is like Loser without the road, and with some huge steep
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snowfields.
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Casting about for new things to do on Loser in 1980 (having not really
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planned on going there at all), we decided to go and investigate
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Stellerweghöhle, whose entrance had been shown to two of us the previous
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year by Karl Gaisberger who was collecting cave fauna. This cave was
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supposed to have 200m of horizontal passage ending in a 220m pitch. In fact,
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because of the amount of snow in 1980, this known way on was almost blocked,
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and two of us explored a new passage from c 10m inside the entrance. This
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led to much more passage, up and down ramps to two series of pitches, down
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to c 300m. The old route was also found and pushed, but the alleged 220m
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pitch turned out to be a constricted shaft series of maybe 220 FEET before
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it just got too scrofulous. An almost independent subgroup of the expo
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explored Sonnenstrahlhöhle to -330m in about four trips - the easiest and
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nicest deep cave CUCC has found.
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I missed 1981 (away caving in Mexico and at the Int. Speleological Congress),
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but CUCC returned with some members of the University of Bristol Speleological
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Society, found a new entrance to Stellerweg, and pushed a series of large
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phreatic passages at c -500m.
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1982 saw Stellerweg pushed (via the Schnellzughöhle entrance) to an apparent
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sump, which was pushed for form's sake, and went, as a low airspace duck, to
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more streamway, and a deep shaft, 'Orgasm Chasm', leading to a deep vertical
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sump at -898m from the Stellerweg entrance.
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1983 saw a new cave, Wolfhöhle, pushed to c -300m, and two new entrances
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above Stellerweghöhle pushed to reasonable depths. These were not connected
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to the main system, though both seemed close, promising to increase its
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depth to 971m. The bigger one went to a big pitch, below which ways on
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closed down, but beyond which was an inaccessible big passage which would
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merit further attention. Steinschlagschacht went in a big loose shaft to -194m.
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1984 saw Wolfhöhle (actually, the skeleton after which it was named proved
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to be a bear) pushed to a rather dismal conclusion just below -400m. One of
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the high entrances above Stellerweghöhle proved to have a vocal connection
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to the main cave but much hammering failed to widen the final squeeze.
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Steinschlagschacht finished at c -240m but was so horrid that it wasn't
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surveyed. The expo suffered a lot from the weather and not a great deal else
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was done, other than pushing side passages in the upper parts of
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Stellerweghöhle.
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1985 was successful in that the continuation of the high entrance found in
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1983 was reached by a sneaky bouldery bypass to the pitch. New passage then
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led into the known part of Stellerweghöhle. This entrance was 1m lower than
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the one with the vocal connection so the new depth was 970m. A new entrance
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was found which led into Sonnenstrahlhöhle about half way down, but added no
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new depth.
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Interest had by now waned to such an extent that the 1986 expo did not
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happen. 1987 was staffed by members with little experience of the area, and
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though many new entrances were looked at and a few old caves reexplored, not
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much new was found. It was, however, enough to inspire a new generation to
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return. French and German cavers in the area linked their system into
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Stellerweghöhle, and also to the Schwarzmooskogeleishöhle, a mile-long cave
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known for many years. We believe that this raises the depth past 1000m, but
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as we have never been able to obtain a survey of their work, we are not
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sure.
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By 1988, I hadn't been for four years, so I'm getting out of touch - also I
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don't have the reports on disc. However, the 1989 report claims that the 88
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expo was the biggest ever. Kaninchenhöhle was discovered and pushed to
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-300m. New blood was obviously important here, since 161 has the sort of
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entrance we oldies had learnt to ignore, as big open shafts are 'always'
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choked.
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I was back in Austria in 1989, though not caving much. As well as the major
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exploration of Kaninchenhöhle, when the major outlines of the system were
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defined and depths of c -500m achieved, we also had four cave divers trying
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to locate a resurgence in the lake. They found it - it wasn't penetrable.
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They also found human remains from someone who had drowned in the late
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fifties. This was the year of two rescues from falls in 'The Squeeze' (now
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avoidable) in Kaninchenhöhle. Becka broke a leg, which was a serious rescue,
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with lots of helicopter rides. The day she came out of hospital, Chris, her
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boyfriend, fell in the same place, and cracked his pelvis (though only bad
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bruising was diagnosed at the time). To avoid major embarassment, CUCC
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carried out this rescue entirely on their own, hauling Chris across the
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plateau at night in a torrential downpour.
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1990 was almost all exploration of Kaninchenhöhle, which really needs writing
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up as a whole adventure in itself. The Trisselwand was climbed again (real
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outdoor rockclimbing) by myself (who had done it before), Wookey, Joe and
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Juliette. We had to walk down in the dark, same as the first time, so this is
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now traditional. This was the first year with radios, which seemed a good idea
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after last year's rescues, and they were very effective posh ones on loan,
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which we have striven to match (unsuccessfully) ever since.
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1991 saw everyone studiously avoid Kaninchenhöhle to explore
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Bovisundpudzuckerhöhle (Puffball), which soon proved sufficiently unpleasant
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to get 161 going again. 161 started to have bits a very long way from the
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entrance, so 161c was invented to push France. By now 161 was so complex
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that I won't attempt to describe the finds in this (supposedly brief) intro.
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In 1992, there was so much snow, that three cavers walked right over the top
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of the 161 entrance on a snowplug, and lived. Puffball was finished and
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Kaninchenhöhle certainly wasn't.
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In 1993 Kaninchenhöhle still wasn't finished, but nearly all the leads
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sensibly near the entrance were pushed.
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1994: you know more than me !
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The general style of expeditions you will now be familiar with, though this
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has changed quite a bit over the years.
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