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1978: Cambridge Underground report
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<!-- from CTS 79.1867 Cambridge Underground 1979 pp 22-36 -->
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<h1>Austria 1978</h1>
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After several years in the Pyrenees, 1976 saw a break and a holiday cum
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reconnaissance to the <span lang="de-at">Loser</span> Plateau in the
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<span lang="de-at">Totes Gebirge</span> of Austria. What was seen was enough
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to convince those present that here was a new area with good potential and
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easy access, so a larger expedition set out in 1977 and met with
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considerable success; three groups explored pots of 220m
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<span lang="de-at">(Braüninghöhle)</span>, 265m
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<span lang="de-at">(Schneewindschacht)</span> and 150m
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<span lang="de-at">(Eislufthöhle)</span>, the latter still going with a
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powerful draught. Enthusiasm to return ran high and in 1978, a well-organised
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undergraduate expedition emerged with the dual aims of continuing down
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<span lang="de-at">Eislufthöhle</span> and of finding new holes on the
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plateau. The 'Old Lags' came too, of course, and proved invaluable later on
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in the expedition.
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<p>Loser expeditions tend to be well-stratified, though this year some
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people visited other groups' pots, and Team Geriatric probably visited more
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cave in a shorter time than any other group.
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<h4>Personnel</h4>
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Team Youth -<blockquote> John Bowers, Nicky Davies, Ben van Millingen, Mike Shearme</blockquote>
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<p>Team Ropes -<blockquote> First Wave : Doug Florence, Simon Farrow, Andy Waddington<br>
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Second Wave : Julian Griffiths, Nick Thorne</blockquote>
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<p>Team Geriatric -<blockquote> Vic Brown, Rod, Jont & Carole Leach, Dave Fox, Keith who ?</blockquote>
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<p>The most noticeable changes from last year were adequate transport
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(just), huge piles of new rope and food, a large transparent mess tent for
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watching thunderstorms from, and much more snow on the plateau. The beer,
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the hospitality (definitely no double meaning intended !), and the potential
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were all the same - the former reducing our exploitation of the latter.
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<p>We must again thank <span lang="de-at">Karl Gaisberger</span> (our
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contact), <span lang="de-at">Fritz Madlmeier</span> (campsite owner and
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purveyor of cheap beer and free spirits), the officials at the
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<span lang="de-at">Loser panoramastraße</span> (for free passage to the
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plateau), and the Austrian Health Service (for bodywork repairs). We would
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also like to thank the numerous individuals and organisations in the UK who
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generously provided support, financial and in kind, for the expedition (see
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acknowledgements).
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<h4>Expedition diary</h4>
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July
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<blockquote>
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21st New engine in van (!)<br>
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27th At 4am, the alternator packs up, finally replaced just as our 9.30
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hovercraft departed. Arrive <span lang="fr">Calais</span> 2pm.<br>
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28th Teams Youth and Ropes (First wave) arrive in
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<span lang="de-at">Altaussee</span><br>
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29th Rigging into <span lang="de-at">Eislufthöhle</span> and
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prospecting commences in blistering sunshine.</blockquote><br>
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August
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<blockquote>
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3rd 107 found. Digging commences<br>
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4th New ground made in <span lang="de-at">Eislufthöhle</span><br>
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13th -350m made in <span lang="de-at">Eislufthöhle.</span> Bottoming
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trip wiped out, so exploration ceased. Geriatrics arrive - just in time.<br>
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16th 107 <span lang="de-at">(Gemshöhle)</span> reaches 280m and a
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conclusive choke.<br>
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19th Final derigging completed<br>
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22nd expedition arrives back in UK, just in time for Sid's Pippikin
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film on TV !</blockquote>
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<h3><a name="ropes">TEAM ROPES REPORT</a></h3>
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<p>Nick and Julian arrived about a week after the rest of us due respectively
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to long-vac term and the pressures of being an accountant.
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<p>It was obvious on the first walk up to the plateau that there had been
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more snow than during the previous year. Many of the holes that we had
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explored last year were full to the brim, so fears were running high that
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106 would be blocked. Having disturbed several adders on the little used
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path on the way up, it was apparent that no-one had been up to the col since
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our last visit.
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<p>The hole was indeed badly blocked, and Andy spent several very cold
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sessions digging through snow plugs to find the way on. Stances at pitch
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heads tended to be about five feet further up the wall, and we were
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effectively dealing with the exploration of a new hole.
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<p>The 13m pitch from Yesterday's Terminus was found to be blocked with
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several ice boulders, most of which we were able to dislodge. However, we
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were left with one monster that was jammed very firmly, and no amount of
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wellie work would move it. Still, it did provide a good stance for putting a
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bolt in ! After several days of consternation (the thing was visibly
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melting) a team was despatched with a crowbar. Much to our surprise, the
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berg had descended the pitch and lay on the floor smashed into tiny
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fragments.
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<p>Progress was slowly made to our last year's end point, the Tap Room. Here
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Doug and Andy rushed down a 6m climb on which we later placed a handline,
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and continued over a gargantuan boulder into the lower section of the Tap
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Room. The chamber was at least as large as our hazy memories had recorded
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it! The way on was found in a narrow traverse reached by a 2m climb up. The
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traverse led to the head of a short drop into a 2x3x4m chamber.
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<p>The following day Doug and Simon descended and placed a bolt at the head
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of the drop, a handline was slung down and Simon descended, ascending
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several milliseconds later when it was noticed that the roof of the chamber
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was not in fact a roof, but merely the underside of a huge boulder which
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appeared to be precariously balanced. After several minutes wittering about
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'angles of friction' and 'metastable equilibrium', the explorers redescended
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and took stock of the situation. The huge draught they were following came
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roaring out of a hole in the floor. A way on could be discerned following
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the rift at the same level, but this was ignored in favour of the hole when
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stones dropped echoed down for a long time. It finally looked as though we
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were on the verge of some decent vertical stuff.
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<p>The next day, the same team descended and a bolt was placed. Simon
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descended 20m in a shaft that was huge and getting bigger, but fears of rubs
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necessitated a rerig and lack of time prevented a further descent.
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<p>It was at this point that Nick and Julian arrived and after a day of
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prospecting (see below) and a day of festering in a
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<span lang="de-at">Salzburg</span> bar, they went on the first overnight
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trip. They descened pitches of 10m to a rebelay, then 35m to a ledge followed
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by a rather giddy step across the abyss carrying the roaring stream below.
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Next came an 8m pitch, then a traverse along a rift for about 20m to a
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rocking chockstone which brought them to a large black space. This was the
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head of a 60m pitch similar to the final one in Juniper Gulf - and just as
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free. It landed on a balcony which gave the explorers a grandstand view of
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the base of a huge aven.
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<p>The stream was seen to disappear back down the rift in a narrow winding
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passage. This was soon abandoned in favour of the aven - here they called it
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a day and began the ascent. Julian, the first man up, accidentally moved the
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rope which returned through the boulders and Nick found himself trying to
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prusik through a 4" gap between the boulders. After much shouting,
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Julian was forced to abseil down to reposition the rope correctly.
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<p>The following night, Doug and Andy went on their first overnight trip,
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rigging the short 6m pitch down the balcony on a rather surreal set of
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belays. The pair landed on the massive boulder floor of the Hall of the
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Greene King. Estimates of the height varied, but 90-100m seemed reasonable.
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The diameter was approximately 20m.
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<p>After some scrambling around amongst the huge boulders, a large gallery
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was found leading off from the base of the aven. This was, to use Andy's
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words, "an exhibition hall of all the varieties of unstable boulder
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bridges". Several involuntary descents were made as the boulder floor
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rearranged itself. After many metres of unstable going, a short climb down
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was found which rapidly turned into an overhanging pitch of 5m. It was only
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on descending this pitch that the explorers realised quite how little they
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had been standing on at the take-off.
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<p>Continuing on down the gallery, a small stream was seen to debouche from
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the right hand wall, flowing across the passage and into a small passage in
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the left hand wall. This was followed on down to the head of a small
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free-hanging pitch, but the intrepid pair (following the draught) decided to
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cross the passage and ascend a small climb reaching the head of a pitch.
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Here, exploration halted for the day. A passage could be seen opposite the
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head of the pitch - Julian later entered this, but it merely regained the
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main passage further downstream.
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<p>Julian, Nick and Simon returned a couple of days later, and descended the
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pitch of 23m, split 12m down by a boulder jam and a complex of vadose
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inlets. The pitch landed on the floor of a deep wide vadose canyon, carrying
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the main stream. The explorers rushed on, reaching a thrutchy 6m climb down
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a boulder jam; the rift now became narrow, and after approximately 150m of
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traversing they reached a pitch down a mud slope. A bolt was placed, while
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Julian and Nick returned for more rope - the Fiesta Run was 12m of the
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muddiest pitch going. Ascenders and other gear became transformed into lumps
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of mud after a short time. Pausing only to rig yet another pitch, the
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explorers made for the surface. Considerable problems with slipping
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ascenders were experienced by those not using Jumars, and much use was made
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of Nick's toothbrush.
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<p>It was while driving down from the last of these overnight trips that the
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three travellers woke up to find themselves in the river, having crashed
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through a barrier and somersaulted 10m down a near vertical bank. With one
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highly concussed chauffeur and a passenger with a severe head gash, Nick ran
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for help....
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<p>Sunday evening saw Julian in Bad Aussee hospital with a fractured sternum,
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ripped thumb muscles, and stitches in his nose, while Simon had been rushed
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to <span lang="de-at">Salzburg</span> with a suspected fracture of the
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cervical vertebra and stitches in the scalp. Nick escaped with a small bruise
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on his shoulder ! All this rather spoilt the prospects of completing
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exploration in <span lang="de-at">Eislufthöhle,</span> and people began
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to consider the feasibility of a derig with such a small team. Mike, Andy and
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Doug did a survey trip the following day, and later in the week Andy and Doug
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got down to the previously undescended pitch. Andy went down about 10m to the
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end of the rope and was able to hurl rocks an estimated 50-60m further.
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<p>A strenuous derig as far as Hall of the Greene King followed, Doug and
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Andy carrying large amounts of tackle out to the surface. Three days later,
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Doug, Nick, Dave Fox, Jont, Vic and Rod descended to remove the remaining
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tackle and grease the bolts with only 24 hours left before departure time.
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<p>Summing up, the hole is now 350m deep, and 400m should be a formality
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next year.
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<p><img alt="grade 1 survey, 25k gif" width=640 height=1250 src="106.png">
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<h4>Rigging and Gear</h4>
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<p>Use was made of Maillons Rapides and thimbles to economise on karabiners.
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The pot as far as Saved Shaft was rigged on one 100m length of Bluewater,
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rebelayed in many places. We were rather proud of this, as we needed only
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one protector on the whole 100m length. Saved Shaft would have been nearly
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impossible to rig safely for SRT and was equipped with a ladder and
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self-line. The rest of the pot was rigged on 11mm Interalp Speleo-rope, and
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short stretches of Marlow 16 plait terylene.
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<p>On some of our new Interalp, the sheath tended to bunch up on the core
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after several days at the base of a pitch - this was despite pre-washing to
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encourage sheath shrinkage. The Marlow had an unfortunate tendency to creak.
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Personally, I found this somewhat disconcerting.
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<p>In general, despite its relative stretchiness (which does at least
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suggest that it is not going to snap under a small dynamic load) the
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Interalp was liked for ts superb handling qualities and compactness (more
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than 100m in a tackle bag), and of course the Bluewater inspired great
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confidence in a part of the pot that we had been dreading to rig for SRT.
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<p>Simon Farrow.
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<h3><a name="ladders">TEAM LADDERS AND TEAM GERIATRIC REPORT</a></h3>
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<p>For all of Team Ladders, it was their first season of European
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Pot-bashing. The first four days on the <span lang="de-at">Loser</span>
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Plateau were spent prospecting, sherping tackle up to the pots and trying to
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find some shelter either from the sun, or from thunderstorms. Several
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entrances were looked at, and we quickly learnt which holes were likely to be
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promising - almost without exception the vertical shafts were choked. Only
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one, 98, was numbered in the first few days.
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<p>This is situated further into the plateau than 97 and 106, on a large
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sloping face of rock. The entrance is in a gryke dropping down 29 metres.
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The shaft enlarges at the bottom, and the landing is in a small chamber. On
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one side a rift descends for nine metres until it becomes too tight. On the
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other, a slot led to the top of another pitch. This was 17m deep, and ended
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in a solid floor with no way on. The total depth of the cave is 47 metres.
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<p>After this, we decided to look at a different area of the plateau, on the
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east side near 82 - Team Geriatric's 1977 find. The result was 107. The
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entrance lay in a dry valley under collapsed boulders, and an encouragingly
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strong draught blew out of it. A short drop under the boulders landed in a
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small chamber, in the bottom corner of which was a hole blocked by boulders.
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This is the head of the first pitch, and the draught still blew out from it.
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It took two days of excavating to clear out and belay the boulders until the
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pitch was fit to descend.
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<p>Beyond the small hole at the head of the pitch, the dimensions were
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magnificent. The shaft is six metres in diameter and 18 metres deep, and the
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landing is in a large passage which was decorated by ice stalactites. This
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passage was of a very different character from the rest of the cave, being
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large and horizontal, with a visible roof. The rest of the cave is formed
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along faults, and it was rare to see the roof again. The passage choked in
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both directions, and the way on was down a rift off to the side of the
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passage, out of which the draught was blowing.
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<p>Two pitches followed in quick succession - one of 23 metres and one of 19
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metres. Halfway down the first, a small inlet entered, which made both
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pitches unpleasant in wet weather. At the bottom of the 19 metre pitch, two
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possible ways led on - either continuing down with the water or traversing
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round the drop, which led to another passage.
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<p>Initially, the second way was chosen and followed for about 100 metres to
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the top of another shaft. In this passage the draught was reversed, blowing
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in rather than out, suggesting that the passage was an alternative to
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another one. A boulder floor could be seen at a depth of about 10 metres
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below the top of the shaft, Boulder Shaft, and a ladder was put down. Again,
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two ways led on, one through the boulders, the other across the shaft and
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down a narrow rift. However, the stability of the boulders seemed doubtful,
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and we went back to look at the way on from the bottom of the 19 metre
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pitch.
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<p>Until this time, all trips had taken place during hours of daylight, but
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this meant that we had a maximum of twelve hours to get up to the plateau,
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get underground, cave, and then get off the plateau by nightfall. It would
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have been dangerous to walk on the limestone in the dark - the possibilities
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of losing the way, falling down an open shaft or just twisting an ankle
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would be very high. This 'twelve hours' was usually severely reduced by the
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overhead time CUCC takes in getting up in the morning and eating
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'breakfast'. The drive up and walk across the plateau take a further one and
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a half hours each way. For these reasons, an overnight trip seemed an
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attractive proposition, allowing a longer time underground with a walk home
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in certain daylight. The only disadvantage seemed to be missing out on the
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bar in the evening, although a further shortfall (!) was discovered later by
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Team Ropes.
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<p>The next trip down 107, <span lang="de-at">Gemshöhle,</span> was an
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overnight trip. We followed on down below the third pitch. A short passage
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above a rift carrying the small stream was followed to a sharp corner and a
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small drop landing at the top of another larger rift. While we were bolting
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the small pitch, stones were dropped down a hole in the corner of the
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passage. These took several seconds to land, and the length of the pitch was
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estimated to be about 60 metres, which induced panic in the two team members
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underground. Luckily the rift at the bottom of the small pitch was found to
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lead into the large shaft, and it was a much easier ladder climb.
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<p>It seemed to take ages to bolt that pitch, and cold and fatigue soon set
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in. It must have been raining on the surface because a small inlet had
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formed right above our ladder. Both of us could swear we heard people
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singing a song that was played on the juke box every night in Bar Fischer.
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It was pretty eerie and finally we both decided to jack, leaving the cave
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eventually with fading illumination. Not much was achieved on this trip, and
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no other overnight trips took place in 107, although in a deeper pot, the
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idea is probably worth considering.
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<p>Another short, cold, wet trip took place, trying to get down the pitch.
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The first ladder landed on a pile of jammed boulders where the ladder was
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rebelayed to follow down one wall of the shaft. The depth of this shaft
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turned out to be 67 metres - pretty close to our estimate. Had we laddered
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the pitch direct, it would have hung free most of the way, partly in the
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water. The way on now followed the water down the rift, which must be 60
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metres high, although the roof could not be seen.
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<p>At about this time, Team Geriatric arrived in Altaussee, and since they
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would not have time to prospect for and explore a new cave, the decided to
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join team Ladders in 107. Despite their great age, Team Geriatric are still
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very agile and, couled with their experience, this made them invaluable in
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<span lang="de-at">Gemshöhle.</span> On their first trip they went back
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to Boulder Shaft and found the way on through the boulders choked, but rigged
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the rift on the opposite side of the shaft. They abseiled the pitch,
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rebelaying part way down, and landed in the stream that was later realised to
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be the same one that Team Ladders were in. The total pitch length was 100
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metres.
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<p>The next pitch for Team Ladders took them along the Big Rift, following
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the stream as far as the bottom of the Geriatrics' Pitch, at which point
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they were almost out of ladders.
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<p>In the Geriatrics' last trip into 107, they got to the bottom. The last
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pitch of 44 metres was quite wet and landed in a much larger rift at right
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angles to the one they had been following. The water disappeared down a
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small hole in the floor and the rift choked. This is all according to Vic,
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who has a reputation for giving the blessing to the bottom of pots. Team
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Geriatric then derigged their rope, and surveyed the top half of the cave on
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their way out. Team Ladders derigged several days later due to inclement
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weather.
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<p>The surveying of the cave revealed a depth of 280 metres, making it CUCC's
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second deepest find. The survey shows it to be remarkably similar to 82,
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<span lang="de-at">Bräuninghöhle.</span> Both have a large
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horizontal stretch of passage near the surface, and the rest of the pot is
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formed in a large rift. The entrance to 107 is 20 metres higher up than that
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of 82, and the pot is 60 metres deeper. Hence the bottom of 107 lies 40
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metres below that of 82, putting the bottom of 82 at a level just before the
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final large rift in 107. When it was found that 82 ended in a perched sump,
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it was thought that all caves in the area might do this. 107 disproves this
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theory. Their similarities are perhaps not too surprising since their
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entrances are only about 100 metres apart.
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<p><img alt="survey: 30k gif" width=640 height=1475 src="../../plateau/others/107.png">
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<p>For our first attempt at caving abroad,
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<span lang="de-at">Gemshöhle</span> provided a good introduction with
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quite an impressive depth.
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<p>Ben van Millingen
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<h3><a name="gumbies">TWO EXECUTIVE GUMBIES GO PROSPECTING</a></h3>
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<p>Nick and Julian (alias Mr Super Cool and Mr Super Smooth), having just
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arrived in Austria and not wishing to immediately thrust their weak and
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flabby bodies into the depths of <span lang="de-at">Eislufthöhle,</span>
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settled for a gentle day's prospecting. That was the idea at any rate, but in
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the end we walked so far across the plateau that we had to radio back for a
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helicopter to fly in the iron lungs. Consequently, when we found 110 (see
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survey), it was so far from any of the previous finds that relocation, should
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it ever be needed, may prove rather difficult. No bearings were taken from
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the entrance ('I thought you'd brought the compass'), but it lies at least
|
|
2 km beyond <span lang="de-at">Eislufthöhle,</span> roughly in the
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direction of the <span lang="de-at">Schönberg.</span> The number 110
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appears in red paint near to the cave's low, insignificant entrance. Its
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discovery was the classic situation of an icy wind howling up your shorts !
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|
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<p>The draught was followed, with hand torches, along a short crawl to a
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|
partial boulder choke. Hmmm... Returning for 70m of brand new SRT 'digging'
|
|
rope and a couple of tins of spinach, the burly boulder bunglers soon had
|
|
the main obstruction licked, and Julian ventured along a low passage, again
|
|
with a hand torch, to the head of a short pitch. Returning, Nick then put
|
|
his caving gear on, and whilst Julian sat at the entrance as his call out,
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|
Super Cool pushed the exploration further. In the course of a couple of
|
|
hours, Nick bolted, rigged and descended a short pitch, and investigated an
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|
easy walking passage (curiously doubling back under the entrance passage) to
|
|
a collapsed chamber. Several possible routes through the boulders all proved
|
|
fruitless, and an exit was made.
|
|
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|
<p><img alt="grade 1 plan: 12k gif" width=500 height=600
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|
src="../../remote/110.png">
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|
|
|
<p>Feeling thankful that a pot such a long, gruelling walk across the
|
|
plateau had not 'gone', the two pioneers, now definitely wheezing, started
|
|
back for base. Unfortunately, as they passed near to 98, two fairly sizeable
|
|
shafts were found and had to be explored. The first of these, 111, was
|
|
quickly rigged, and Julian winched down 30m to a narrow choked rift, having
|
|
passed a ledge at the -20m level. With his helmet still on, Julian then
|
|
descended the second of the shafts, 112, which lay about 50m from 111. He
|
|
passed two ledges on his way down to a choke at -50m.
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|
|
|
<p>After derigging, the two then ignominiously staggered off the plateau,
|
|
and down to the campsite to claim thair quota of lagerbier in the forlorn
|
|
hope of restoring some of their hard-lost flab. A profitable day's work,
|
|
nevertheless.
|
|
|
|
<p>Nick Thorne.
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|
<hr />
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|
<!-- LINKS -->
|
|
<ul id="links">
|
|
<li>Cambridge Underground 1979,
|
|
<a href="../../../jnl/1979/index.htm">Table of Contents</a></li>
|
|
<li>1978 Expedition info:
|
|
<ul>
|
|
<li><a href="log.htm">Logbook</a></li>
|
|
<li><a href="bcracc.htm">BCRA Caves & Caving Report</a></li>
|
|
<li>Eislufthöhle - <a href="descnt.htm">from Descent 40</a></li>
|
|
<li>Nick Thorne's write-up in <a href="782034.htm">Belfry Bulletin 366</a></li>
|
|
<li>1977/78 report from <a href="npc79.htm">NPC Journal</a></li>
|
|
<li><a href="sponsr.htm">Sponsors</a></li>
|
|
</ul></li>
|
|
<li><a href="../../pubs.htm#pubs1978">Index</a> to all publications</li>
|
|
<li><a href="../../index.htm">Back to Expeditions intro page</a></li>
|
|
<li><a href="../../../index.htm">CUCC Home Page</a></li>
|
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</ul>
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</body>
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