[begin ----- #115 -----] .newpage $c 115 - SCHNELLZUGHOHLE Schnellzughohle was discovered in 1980, a draughting, horizontal passage which ended in a choke (with some survey cotton found). This was dug and a complex abandoned system reached via a bolted climb. The limit of exploration was a ramp which led both up and down to undescended avens at -8Om. The size of passage and strength of breeze made a return very attractive. The initial rigging in and pushing trips did not follow the marathon-from-the-word-go pattern of the Stellerweg heroes; usually two 2-man teams would descend in relay each day. This avoided the withdrawal symptoms and 'driver of the year' risks associated with all night trips. Rigging in to the 198O limit took one trip, the old bolts were reused. An inlet above the ramp was also explored; a series of 8 cascades led up 3Om to a choke. At the aven a decision was made not to descend via the main shaft but to a rift to one side. This was primarily because a pile of loose boulders threatened to mangle anyone dangling below. Also, a peer into the depths showed that rebelaying would be necessary, giving no advantage over the rift. The ladder dropped via a series of muddy ledges (although there were no severe cam-slipping problems) into a small active streamway, just a tiny dribble when it wasn't raining. Two fine, clean-washed pitches of 19m and 14m followed, which were the scene of an exciting trip when it did rain once. A tremendous whooshing noise announced the arrival of quite a small flood pulse, which would have made the pitches miserable rather than impassable; the intrepid explorers were exiting too rapidly to actually prove this. The second wet pitch was followed by a damp 9m ladder climb to a 15m by 5m ledge. Here the water disappeared into boulders, and then a 34m freehang dropped into a chamber. This was big, 3Om by 3Om with the roof beyond stinky range. A food dump was established here, complete with stove in case the pitches ever did become impassable. A stream vanished into an uninviting slot in the floor. Upstream, 6Om of big phreatic tube connected with another aven. Downstream, a similar 5m diameter tube was reached by traversing up through boulders from the stream bed. It proved too difficult to follow the stream at high level (this had also been found out by a rather forlorn, green bat here found entombed). However, 5Om from the chamber the tube branched off into a phreatic maze. The draught was pursued to a second stream, and a small cairn built. This was later to be found by the Stellerweg team. Meanwhile the streamway was pushed. It meandered on and on for 800m, and required much shuffling and a couple of awkward traverses. An hour of this led to a more comfortable sized streamway (probably the Stellerweg water). This proceeded with a 7m lined climb to a sump. This was easily bypassed via a 3m diameter phreatic tube which emerged above the stream again. The discovery was celebrated by a severe attack of the Lurgi and an epic 11 hour exit, after which the narrow streamway was christened Pete's Purgatory. A ladder was rigged back to the stream, and the descent continued with increasing enthusiasm. The canyon was 1.5-2m wide, too high to see the roof and getting bigger all the time. Fifty metres and a 5m ladder climb led to 5OOm of fine stream, which descended quite rapidly by numerous sporting cascades. A 5m pitch (the 'twelve foot climb') was reached and bolted when play was stopped again by Lurgi. The victim escaped this time, but his partner got lost near the entrance and had to be rescued the following morning. 5OOm after the short pitch came a 1Om wet pitch and then 3OOm more passage. In two places here, classic vadose canyon gave way to low, wet ramps with some grotting in boulders. A fine, free-hanging pitch of 10m then dropped into a dark pool. 15Om more stream, and a 15m pitch, broken by a ledge, was followed by a 4m roped climb. 70m of horizontal passage followed, with dismal pools leading to hopes of a sump; these were dashed by another pitch, a dry 15m free-hang. The streamway continued inexorably to yet another 1Om pitch, but a realistic decision / miserable witter was made and the derig commenced to the sump by-pass. This was completed in a mammoth 3-wave session, remarkable for feats of gluttony and nicotine consumption, and an attempt to wall in the consultant geologist and catering manager. Trips into the lower streamway were becoming quite serious, with hitch-free trips taking from 12-14 hours, typically adding just a couple of bolts. Flooding could be an extremely dangerous proposition: there is nowhere warm and dry to hide. However, it needs a good survey and the combined system is getting close enough to the 7OOm mark to put a return next year very much on the cards. .blank $e Simon Kellet [end #115] [begin ----- AERW2 -----] .newpage $c MEXICO SPRING 1981 Background : Readers of the caving press, especially Caving International, will no doubt be aware that great things are being discovered in Mexico, but are probably less aware of the great variety of the areas being explored. The following introduction is intended to place the Mexican discoveries in context as a background to the spring project in which I participated. Cave exploration has been going on for many years, in the main by US cavers, which led to the formation of an informal group called the Association for Mexican Cave Studies (AMCS) whose role now is to collect and publish information on the caves of Mexico and to coordinate trips to prevent duplication of effort. It is recommended that any group planning to travel to Mexico should be in contact with this group, based in Austin, Texas. As cavers explored into the karst of Mexico, it was natural that those regions nearest the main roads should be the first to come under scrutiny, and the earliest AMCS Bulletin "Caves of the Inter-American Highway" reflects this. A series of limestone mountain ranges along the El Abra reef trend :- the Sierra Madre Oriental were explored, the most promising of which were the Sierra de Guatemala south of Ciudad Victoria, the El Abra south of Ciudad Mante and the Xilitla plateau. The latter area contained the deep pits of Sotano de las Golondrinas and El Sotano - the largest free drop pit in the world. Further south, the spectacular karst plateau of Huautla de Jimenez was discovered, leading to the exploration of the deepest caves in the western hemisphere - Sotano del Rio Iglesia and Sotano de San Agustin. Trouble with the native population led to a self-imposed moratorium on exploration in the area for ten years. South West of Mexico City, a large area in Guerrero and Morelos contains such famous caves as Grutas de Cacahuamilpa. More recent explorations have penetrated further from the main highways both in the north and the south, and further exploration has continued in the other areas. To the east of Mexico city, the Cuetzalan area has yielded long river caves with huge passages, several streams converging to give Mexico's second longest system. Much further south, exploration in Chiapas, mainly by the Canadians (including many expatriot Brits) has been rewarded by such finds as Sumidero Yo Chib, at the time of its exploration probably the most spectacularly and dangerously wet cave in the world. In Huautla, the renewed exploration has found a series of deep caves, all close to connecting into one huge system. The first of the connections came when the very deep Li Nita was connected by diving to Sotano de San Agustin to yield a system 1220m deep. This area was also the scene of a very serious rescue when a Polish caver broke his back deep inside San Agustin. Further south still, expeditions have penetrated into Guatemala and Belize. In the north of the country, the northern end of the Sierra Madre Oriental was penetrated by long dirt roads, and when exploration of the area started, the rewards were considerable, leading to the discovery of the caves which were eventually to form La Sistema Purificacion, which is still being explored by an AMCS group under the direction of Peter Sprouse and Terri Treacy. La Sistema Purificacion - History of exploration : The cave is located in Ejido Conrado Castillo in the mountains north west of Ciudad Victoria, and was known to the local populace long before the arrival of American cavers. The "Historic Section" of Cueva del Brinco shows signs of a considerable history of investigation, so when members of the AMCS first arrived in the area in the early seventies, they were quickly directed to the entrance and the potential of the area was realised. On subsequent visits, they were shown a large, inaccessible cave entrance in a canyon headwall about three miles away and 850m lower. When the entrance was reached, the huge passages of Cueva de Infiernillo were seen for the first time and the dream of a connection was established. At the start of the spring trip of 1978, Cueva del Brinco had been surveyed to 6.5km long and 257m deep, while Infiernillo was 4.6km long. A third strongly draughting cave, Sumidero de Oyamel, had also been found the previous autumn. During the spring project, a huge trunk passage with a stream, The World Beyond, was found in Brinco which was heading away from Infiernillo, but after a mile or so, it abruptly turned about and dropped steeply. After the spring trip, Brinco was 9.2 km long and 382m deep, already a significant cave. Oyamel was just over 1 km and 125m deep. Exploration fever set in, with a return to Infiernillo in July (nominally the wet season) in which the cave was surveyed to 9 km, and passages were explored which had to be very close to Brinco. In again from the Brinco end, and flagging tape was found which could only have been placed by the Infiernillo crew - on July 13th, the connection was surveyed and Sistema Purificacion was born: 20.086 km long and 884m deep, the longest and deepest cave in Mexico. A trip in December saw the systems first accident, when a caver fell and broke his leg in the recently discovered Valhalla section of the cave, but a remarkably smooth rescue organised from the USA saw the injured man safe after three days in the cave. The spring project 1979 saw more surveying in the phreatic mazes of the "Confusion Tubes" area in Infiernillo and the discovery of Moria, an important lead toward a postulated "Great Western System". It also saw a 20 hour through trip with Claude Chabert and Paul Courbon, who then dug out a new top entrance to the Valhalla region - the Entrada de los Franceses. At the end of the spring, the cave was almost 28 km long. Useful information was gathered on the system in flood when 19cm of rain fell in a storm in December, when the sumps at the bottom of the system were seen to be 64m above their dry season level. In Spring 1980, attention was returned to Oyamel, which was surveyed to 2.5 km and then connected in to the upstream section of The World Beyond. At the end of 1980, the system stood at 38km long and 895m deep - by far the longest, but no longer the deepest in Mexico. [end AERW2] [begin ----- AERW3 -----] .newpage $c SPRING PROJECT 1981 From Ciudad Victoria we headed towards the mountains. Rounding a steep bend, a vista opened up to the right, of the Canyon Infiernillo , in the steep headwall of which is the bottom entrance to La Sistema Purifacacion. As darkness fell, we arrived at Conrado Castillo, which was to be our base for the next seven weeks. The first trip into the Sistema was via the Entrada de los Franceses, an entrance into the highest part of the system, Valhalla, a complex fossil phreatic maze in somewhat crumbly rock. The first part of the cave is generally dry, and we caved in jeans and shirt-sleeves down a series of low passages and then many climbs, always leading down over solutionally etched rock in weird forms. One or two parts of this area are quite narrow, and as we were carrying quite a bit of gear, our progress was not too fast in the warm cave ( generally about 15 degrees in the upper part of the system ). A change of character to firmer, darker limestone somewhat reminiscent of O.F.D. was closely followed by the sound of running water, and we soon emerged at roof level above a five metre climb into Valkyrie River a recently discovered stream passage, whose source was unknown and destination only conjectured. We unpacked gear and got changed into wetsuits in the roof passage and then climbed down into the stream. Upstream through beautiful blue dolly tubs and then a series of shallow lakes led to a wide sump pool held back by extensive gravel banks. Here Randy Rumer donned a mask and tried freediving with an electric lamp. The roof levelled off at about -2m in very clear water, but Randy needed a large rock in his wetsuit to go any further. A small bell about 2m in had no air and as the sump could be seen to go many metres in crystal clear visibility, he retreated. Don Coons dived a couple of times finding nothing new, but the visibility started to deteriorate, so we decided to head downstream to survey ingoing leads. Downstream from our entry point, deep canals in blue water with calcite encrustations made pleasant, if cool, going to a sump with a bypass. Shining lights underwater identified a probable freedive which would cut out the bypass, but it wasn't attempted. Instead, we split into two parties to survey. Peter and Terry went with Don Coons and Sheri Ensler to follow the main way, whilst Randy and myself with Del Holman and Jerry Atkinson set off into side leads. These unfortunately degenerated into very muddy grovels where surveying was very grotty, leading to the name 'Mud Point Mud Mud' and we were not too disappointed when all ways closed down or sumped. We retreated to the surface, emerging at 3.15a.m. after thirteen hours underground, whilst the other group had to give up in good,blowing cave, and surfaced a couple of hours later. Activity was now directed to a planned week long trip to camp 1 in Infernillo to explore leads in the lower part of the system. Since the entrance is halfway up a large cliff at the head of a canyon, about an hour and a half from the nearest road; and major leads are up to 3 miles inside the cave, camping is almost obligatory. A long trek down into the canyon led to the base of the cliff. Peter ascended to the cave and riged a pitch down to the arroyo to ascend and haul. It was during the hauling that Peter's pack broke loose and crashed down the tyrolean into a boulder: wiping out one set of surveying gear and all our water purifier. Once we were all assembled in the 20m high entrance, it was getting quite late, but it was only a half hour trek in huge passage to camp 1 in a side passage above a lage static sump. The first day from camp 1 established a general pattern as we split into three surveying groups working in different areas.The American style of exploring new caves is the only one possible in an area with so much open and going -so we started surveying into virgin passage, eventually extending this area down to the first running water found, at Gnome Springs. The second day out, we went into Moria, the westernmost area of the lower cave - near base level and with a powerfully draughting choke heading towards the postulated "Great Western System". Whilst Jerry placed a substantial charge on a selected boulder, I frantically fetched mud to pack it, and we soon had an impressive bomb ready to go. The satisfying bang put both our lights out, but once relit, we wasted little time in inspecting the damage - the fumes having already cleared in the draught. Several boulders no longer existed, and I was soon demonstrating the British liking for digging by trundling large amounts of decimated rock out of the choke, but after a couple of hours it became apparent that no further progress could be made without a proddling bar, so we retreated - digging could be quite frustrating at the rate of one bang per year. On the next day, a 'Glub Glub' trip was planned into Isopod river in which a small stream had developed into a canal downstream. This meant heading along the route towards the top of the system, climbing up into Confusion Tubes- where junctions abound in all directions. Emerging through Lakeland into the South Trunk, we trogged along for half an hour in a huge mega-trunk to a bouldery area which got quite thrutchy. We were distracted in the Breakdown Maze by a possible way on through the boulders which Peter thought might crossover into downstream Isopod river, and when Duwain and I opened up a route down to a deep blue canal we decided to survey it. This soon proved abortive in one direction due to low airspace, and the other way eventually led back to known passage, so we tried a dry route which turned out to be an alternative route through the Breakdown Maze back towards Infiernillo. On day four, Jerry and I planned to return to Gnome Springs with Don and Sheri, but when we got to Misty Borehole, we decided to look briefly at an unpushed climb at the end of this tube. Whilst Sheri and I formed an opinion that the climb was quite impossible, Don tried out a few moves and suddenly shot up the wall, into a hole and out at roof level, much to our surprise. He then traversed over the top and into going passage and vanished for some time, only to return with news of a major borehole. We hurriedly rigged a handline and ascended to start surveying. The rift above soon turned into a tube and then developed into something unusual for the cave - a classic keyhole passage some 2-5m deep below a 2m tube. There were lots of side leads, but the main way carried all the air, and we emerged into a sizeable tube. Unfortunately this didn't continue too far before a large flowstone blockage: but a side passage led to an area with cave ice pools and bacon rind stal. From where a beautiful flat flowstone floored tube ascended steeply to a series of climbs. Here we met a small stream depositing calcite which we thought could well feed Gnome Springs, but the water sank into a tiny vertical tube and our route was up a small waterfall into another tube almost blocked by flowstone. The water came from a small passage but the way continued to a deep rift in the floor which we traversed past a pom-pom stalactite to a climb down into an increasingly complex and muddy area. Here we ran out of time and after a short run ahead we headed back to camp 1, pausing only to name the area Ithilien. Back at camp 1 we found that the "40km" party had taken place on the assumption that we had bagged enough booty -but we had been so long that everyone had crashed out. Owing to lack of motivation and illness, day 5 was declared the last day of the camp, so we decided to get as far as possible into the cave in two groups- one finally getting into Isopod river and one to take photographs in the Netherhall - a very large chamber about two and a half miles into the system. Beyond the Breakdown Maze, the South Trunk continued very large again to turn off to the lower Isopod river where the wet team were getting changed. We left them and headed into the Monkey Walk - an awkward stretch of passage with low roof and bouldery floor, leading evenually to the Isopod river, a large passage with a small strem meandering between gravel banks, and containing colonies of troglobytic isopods like little piles of white rice in the stream, which gave the passage its name. By traversing the few pools which blocked the passage, we were able to reach the site of camp 2 on a shingle bank with dry gear and from here we started to climb up immediately to reach the Netherhall, which contains a 150m high boulder pile: like climbing Great Gable at night. After half an hour of upward slogging on scree, we reached the summit and spread out to get an idea of scale before spending the next five hours taking photographs .blank Brinco Camp 3 The next major project was camp 3 - set up for the first time in the upper cave, about 350m below the Cueva del Brinco entrance and 3km inside the cave. As the entrance series of the upper cave is much smaller than Infiernillo, but also wet, we had to arrange for gear packs to split into smaller units and be completely waterproof. As this was a new camp, it was thought best to have a supply run to set the camp up, followed by a lighter trip to move in any gear which didn't make it first time. Despite its proximity to the fieldhouse, this was the first time I had been into Brinco, but with the heavy gear we were all moving slowly, so I had a reasonable chance to look around. The first part ( the Historic Section ) is roomy and dry with many dead formations We descended a fair way, mostly in steep passage, but with a few climbs, until we reached the Dressing Room. This is where the fun starts with a wet thrutch "The Chute" followed by a narrow fissure 'The Crack of Doom'. This was quite time consuming with large packs, but once through, progress in the Lunar Way was faster, through strenous, until another delay at Mud Ball Crawl. Beyond, the passage opened out into the Rio Verde, a steeply descending streamway with steep gours and deep green pools, leading pleasantly to Flowstone Falls, a 20m freeclimb which we however rigged with a line to facilitate descent with heavy packs. The falls drop straight into a swimming canal and further cascade before a series of squezes obstructs the way. Another steep climb led to the beginning of the canal- a low airspace wade in muddy water. This ended in a climb up and over a barrier and through a lake to the Speedway bypass- a somewhat awkward passage breaking out dramatically at the World Beyond. The World Beyond is a major trunk passage carrying the largest stream in the system directly away from the resurgence for almost two miles. The going varies from deep swims of up to 100m to a meandering steam among gravel banks, to climbs over large scale collapse. This ends abruptly where the stream, augmented by a major inlet (possibly Valkyrie river), cuts down to the right to form the Angel's Staircase, eventually sumping at -600m. The main way on to Infiernillo and camp 3 is to the left starting at a series of steep climbs over rotting flowstone with a major change of direction at a pitch. Shortly before this was the site of camp 3 - a roomy chamber with a coarse gravel floor and a couple of deep pools. Here we dumped the gear and had a rest before setting out for the surface. It was 3 days before we set off for the real camp. The first 3 days underground turned out to be relatively unproductive. On day 3 we reached a complex junction area from where our route turned out to be a dead end. Returning to the junction we followed footprints into a large maze area - Medus's Maze which descended down the dip of a major joint to an area with attractive formations. On day 4 we all worked around the maze, extending the area downwards until stopped by a large phreatic lift going steeply up - The Wall, which proved rather loose at the top. Below this however, we found yet another downward lead into smaller passages but with a strong draught. This area, Yawndwanaland, continually stepped north, then down dip, then south along the strike, then down dip and so on, moving slowly west on balance, until at the end of the day, we reached a steep climb down. Louise went to investigate, and found that it dropped into a major south-north passage which must be by now both deeper and further west than the main route to Infiernillo. As this passage seemed to offer the major breakthrough needed to extend the system at depth under the ridge to the south, where sinks lie up to 1600m above the Infiernillo sumps, both parties were fielded into it the next day. We elected to survey north while the others went south. Our lead, Death Coral Rift, headed dead straight in a high rift floored with death coral - a sort of muddy calcite encrustation that seems to grow in passage annually flooded with turbid saturated water which drains slowly. We shot leg after leg, until we came to a shattered chamber. Climbs led to more bouldery passage, still heading north until we came to a conclusive, but draughting choke, apparently close to the Netherhall. From here we headed back the 800m we had surveyed to see how the others had got on. They had surveyed over 1200m in generally large draughting passage heading south all the way. This passage was now nearly as far south as the sothernmost part of the system. We returned to camp elated after fourteen hours, and discussed stretching food supplies to allow one survey team to carry on south. When Peter, Terri and Louise set off next "morning", they quickly returned, having found that the system was in flood. This meant that the World Beyond would be difficult, but more important ,the canal might be sumped.Roy, Patty and I set off for the the surface immediately while the others packed up their camp gear. As might be expected the return was made somewhat hairy by the flood conditions. We were met by Jim Pisarowicz just inside the entrance as we emerged after 10 hours caving. We crashed out quickly in case we had to take a food stash in for the others as we were sure the canal would soon sump behind us: but in fact the others came out about three hours after us, having dumped some gear at the World Beyond. We learned from Jim that almost four inches of rain had fallen in the previous three days as the start of the wet season was approaching. Whilst camp 3 was busily succeeding, Jim had not been idle, having spent the time on surface prospecting on the ridge to the south. Of several holes he had investigated, two looked particularly promising, situated above the area that the new camp 3 passage was heading for, and we soon set off to investigate these. The smaller pot, Pozo del Peso, choked at -36m, the deeper, Sotano de la Rama, reached a choke at -140m. After this, Jim and Louise left, leaving just Peter Terri and myself to spend the final week in sundry pursuits - retrieving the gear from the World Beyond, surveying in some of the smaller local caves and surface surveying before returning to the US. The Spring Project was pretty successful, extending the system from 38km to 45.5km, closely challenging Easegill in the world length stakes. A lot of extremely high quality caving was done and I would like to express my most sincere thanks to Peter and the Proyecto Espeleologico Purificacion for allowing me to join them in 1981. I hope to be able to return to assist in future years in this magnificent system. .blank $e Andrew Waddington [end AERW3] [begin ----- CDG -----] .newpage $c CDG RECONNAISSANCE EXPEDITION TO GREECE $C INTRODUCTION Greece as a venue for a summer expedition was first discussed on Cambridge University Caving Club's return from Austria in 1980. Julian Griffiths fancied the idea of sea, sun and sand, and finding Rob Shackleton not averse to the idea, the nucleus of an expedition was formed. As it turned out, this nucleus represented the full expedition complement; so the beginning of July 1981 saw the expedition Cortina heading south packed full of diving gear. The only firm thing we had in our minds before we went out was that we wanted to go diving rather than normal caving. Beyond that we had no clear idea of what to expect. Neither of us had been diving abroad before (except Ireland) and there is very little written in English about caves in Greece, except for innumerable articles on the Pindos Mountains. As we did not intend to visit the Pindos, this was not much help. We decided that it would be best to try and take in as many areas as possible, stopping only when there was something of particular interest or potential. That way, if we wished to return, we would have first hand knowledge of a number of areas, making it easier to make a choice of an area to concentrate on. In the event this worked very well. We saw a lot of Greece in the two weeks we were there, though we spent at least half of that time in the Mani. The Greek cavers we teamed up with there were very helpful in this respect. One had done a considerable amount of cave diving, not only in Greece but also in Italy and Yugoslavia, and was able to guide us towards promising diving sites. Some of the sites are only accessible by dirt tracks and hence a vehicle with some off-road capacity is essential. We were quite happy to abandon the Cortina in Athens and we spent most of the time travelling around in a Volkswagen van which was more suited for these purposes. We did not take a compressor with us, something which with hindsight we should have done. Diving shops with compressors are few and far between, Athens and Patras being the only ones we heard of. This leaves one trying to beg the use of a privately owned compressor; difficult unless one has contacts. One can rule out hiring a compressor as the hire rates make this prohibitively expensive - we were quoted twenty dollars per day. What we saw of the Greek caves was sufficient to encourage us to return. In diving terms there is little in this country to match the old, submerged phreatic systems of the Mani and the potential of the rising at Kephalari is phenomenal. $C SUMMARY OF EXPLORATIONS Our visit to Greece in July 1981 was largely speculative in that we had few specific sites to examine. The results described below outline the observations we made in the areas we visited and attempt to give some idea of the potential for cave diving that exists in Greece. The country is composed almost entirely of limestone and so we could obviously visit only a small proportion of the areas, but what we did see was sufficient to convince us that many exciting discoveries are awaiting explorers and cave divers will play a crucial role in future explorations. The Greek Speleological Society is the focus of caving activity and many cave explorations have been recorded in their archives. Anyone wishing to cave in Greece is strongly advised to contact the GSS before going, as this may save a great deal of time which would otherwise be wasted, particularly with regard to cave location. The explorations made during our visit are divided quite neatly into areas north and south of Athens, which was the base for operations. The area to the south of Athens is divided from the rest of the mainland by the Gulf of Corinth and is known as the Peloponnesos. To the north of Athens lies the bulk of the mainland, but our activities centred mainly on the regions within striking distance of the capital. $C A) NORTH OF ATHENS 1. Northern Greece On our journey down to Greece we decided to travel through the mountainous regions of the north rather than via the coast road. Accordingly we drove south from Bitola in Yugoslavia through Kozani in northern Greece to join the coast road at Lansa and on our way made occasional stops to look around. The area is composed of thinly bedded limestone cut occasionally by dry gorges which presumably carry flood water. No surface drainage was apparent and the area may well hold caves although the rock is not of a very consistent quality. The area lacks the altitude and depth of limestone of the Pindos range which lies to the west, and these factors combined with the poor quality of the rock make it doubtful whether the same potential for fine cave systems exists in the Kozani area. Other regions of Greece offer more obvious rewards so it may be some years before the area is adequately assessed. 2. Athens area a. Voulegmene (Mount Hymetus) Along the coast to the south east of Athens beyond the suburb of Glyphada is the large resurgence in the sea at Voulegmene. The coast road lies on the cliff top at this point and inland of the road is a large collapse floored by a lake of fresh water which is used as a bathing area. The water which supplies this lake comes from the Mount Hymetus area where several potholes have been explored by the GSS. One of these potholes reaches sea level at a sump and the presence of brackish water indicates a connection with the Voulegmene Lake several kilometres distant. It is evident that a large phreas awaits discovery behind the lake. Both the rising in the sea and the lake have been dived. The tranquil lake surface conceals a deep rift which has been dived, reputedly to -60m, to reveal a complex of phreatic tunnels. In the sea a similar complex of passages has been explored leading inland. b. North West of Athens The city of Athens is surrounded by three groups of mountains. Mount Hymetus lies to the south east, Mount Pendelikon to the north east and Mount P to the north. The latter is composed of promising looking limestone and we spent a day investigating it more closely. A feature of the area is the deeply cut gorges which presumably carry flood or melt water but remain dry during normal weather. We explored one such gorge near Fili, following upstream until we were stopped by a 3m climb above a deep plunge pool infested by frogs. At this point the walls of the gorge were over 1OOm high, with the dry river bed at the bottom some 5m wide, making it an impressive spectacle, Unfortunately all we found in the way of caves was two small rock shelters which looked promising from the road but led nowhere. Several other holes can be seen from the road but we did not have time to look at them as they were quite a long way away over hostile looking ground. These open caves have presumably been investigated by the GSS but what we did establish was that the area has no sizeable springs which makes it of litle interest to the cave diver. It would seem that the percolation drainage resurges in the sea, probably in the region of Salamis. 3. Kallidromon Mountains. This area is located south of Lamia on the north coast of the Attica peninsula. We travelled through the area and it is composed of good, solid limestone unlike the central northern areas of the Greek mainland. Just south of Lamia near the historic site of Thermopylai, a deeply cut rock gorge was followed back into the mountains. This contained a fast flowing stream of considerable proportions considering that there had been no rain for some months and all the other stream beds in the area were dry. Due to lack of sufficient time a conclusion was not reached, but the cold temperature of the water indicates that it must come from a cave or spring which may have potential for exploration. This possibility should be further investigated. 4. Mount Parnassos. There are a number of risings around Delphi which is to the south of Mount Parnassos but these were not visited. We did visit a large spring at Lebadeia which forms the source of drinking water for the town. The rising lies beneath a cafe and has been gated which makes exploration impossible. It is noteworthy however that the rising carries a large flow and this augurs well for the potential of the area. An examination of the other springs in the area with a view to diving could yield interesting results. The geomorphology of this area has been discussed by previous investigators. (Sweeting, M.) 5. Island of Evia. Although an island, Evia has high mountain ranges sloping steeply to the sea, and like most of the rest of Greece appears to be solid limestone. According to the Greek cavers the best area is to the south where large fresh water springs have been discovered in the sea. We wanted to visit an area to the south east of Evia, along the coast of which Giorgos told us that he had found some promising looking springs. Unfortunately the route to the area involves 3Okm of rough tracks which would have proved difficult for our vehicles. It is possible to get a boat from the town of Karistos but the "service" is infrequent, especially the return, and so we decided not to risk getting stranded. A Land-Rover could reach the area but a boat may be necessary even then for the transportation of diving equipment along the coast to the actual sites. To the north of Kimi, a seaside resort on the east coast of Evia, is a large range of mountains. We drove across these on dirt roads to reach a small village on the coast where we spent two days. Sea caves are quite common but we only found one fresh water spring. This was explored by free diving but appeared to be hopelessly choked. The highlight of our stay on Evia was without doubt a visit to Agia Trias. This cave lies above the town of Karistos at the southern tip of the island. A stream emerges from a capped rising, but a small cave nearby yields a 1Om climb down into the water a short distance inside. Within 5Om of the entrance are a church and a taverna which, as JTG pointed out, gives the diver a choice of his method of calming his pre-dive nerves! The cave is almost British in that for all its all too short 5OOm length it comprises a lively and sporting streamway. The difference is that the water is warm. At the end of the open stream passage, which is developed entirely along the strike, is a large, rather silty sump pool. JTG kitted up whilst RJS, Giorgos and a German girl Andrea, who had acompanied us on the trip took photographs of him. The sump proved to be only 3Om long with a maximum depth of 3m and although low in places it is easy with 1274 litres of air. JTG surfaced in a large continuation of the streamway, and after dekitting explored 15Om of passage to a sizeable chamber where the stream cascaded in from an opening 1Om up. The explorer climbed to within 2m of the top but the last bit was tricky and so, having noted that the passage at the top appeared to be wide open, a return was made. The journey out was punctuated by stops for photographs with RJS being persuaded to stand beneath waterfalls, and in pools neck deep for the benefit of the cameras. The lack of surface drainage in the mountains above Karistos suggests that a sizeable percolation network may lie beyond the climb. During the trip into the cave however, twigs were found above one of the plunge pools. Since they were found above normal water level it is probable that winter flood water brought them down. This find, coupled with coarse sand not normally found in percolation caves suggests that the system may be fed by flood sink holes which may provide upper entrances. $C B). SOUTH OF ATHENS During our stay in Greece we spent a week in the areas to the south of Athens, most of this time being devoted to the caves of the Mani peninsula in the extreme south. The Peloponnesos holds great caving potential throughout its area and on our journey back from the south we visited the region around Tripolis where an extensive drainage system has been shown to exist. 1. Mani Peninsula. This area is located immediately to the south east of the town of Kalamata in the southern Peloponnesos, and amongst its fine caves is the famous show cave of Pyrgos Dyros. The caves in this area are all very old phreatic tunnels which collect water by percolation and resurge in the sea. It is evident that they were formed before the last ice age, and during the ice age when the level of the Mediterranean was some 100m lower the it is today, the passages were abandoned allowing the formation of spectacular calcite deposits. The post glacial rise in the sea level has re-flooded many of the tunnels and the abundance of calcite formations is a feature of the submerged routes. The best method for finding cave entrances in this area is to search the coastline for fresh water springs which are easily noticeable as patches of cold water in the warm sea. Also the area in which the fresh water mixes with the salt water is characterised by an opaque quality caused by the differing refractive indices of the two mixing fluids. Occasionally these springs have associated dry caves in the cliffs above, which allow access to the phreatic tunnels inside. Searching the mountains set back from the coast for potholes would seem to be a futile exercise since there is no surface drainage and any potholes which might exist would almost always be choked. The region is also very hostile to the explorer being very hot and thickly clad in low thorny bushes which make walking a slow and painful process. At Pyrgos Dyros the rise in the sea has flooded the cave to within a few feet of the roof and the tourists are guided round in punts which are propelled by pushing on the roof! We visited the show cave, which is a must for anyone spending any time in the area , and were amazed at the profusion of the stalactites. It certainly gave us the idea of the potential of the area and fired our enthusiasm for exploration. Unfortunately diving is permitted only by special arrangement since archeological remains have been found in the cave. Another site along the coast has been dived by Greek and Italian divers in a large passage to a complex boulder choke which corresponds with a similar feature in a cave inland. It is very likely that there will be other caves to be found in the area which will follow a similar pattern of development, although it is unlikely that the level of the sea will give a repeat of the amazing situation at Dyros. During our visit we explored two cave systems both of which resurge in the sea. (a). Cave of Selinitsa. This is an extensive cave system situated on the west coast of the peninsula just south of the small seaside town of Selinitsa. There are in fact three caves in close proximity to each other. Firstly, a large fresh water spring in the sea called the Spring of Dracos (spring of the dragon), secondly, a small cave with several entrances the most accessible of which is close to sea level, and lastly the main entrance to the cave of Selinitsa which lies some 10m above sea level overlooking a nudist bathing area which makes for very interesting scenery whilst lurking out of site in the entrance. The Spring of Dracos was reached by a swim along the coastline in full kit which was quite a bizarre experience. The rising is noticeable by the quantities of cold water issuing, and beneath an impressive cliff are two large entrances below water level. RJS dived first using 1274ls and 425ls whilst JTG sat waiting with Giorgos on a rather surf swept ledge. The line was belayed at a depth of 10m and RJS explored the left hand entrance which was an impressive 5m by 8m arch . After only 15m a lake chamber was entered and the diver could look back through the two entrances into the sea beyond. Above water the chamber was 10m high and the water was about 8m deep with one small area where one could stand chest deep and look about. Beyond the lake which is some 25m in diameter the large passage was followed at 6m depth for 20m to a narrow rift partially blocked with calcite. Unable to see anything more attractive the diver belayed the line and returned. JTG and RJS then dived back to the lake together and JTG examined the rift. The main source of fresh water was found to be a small passage to the right which was of small dimension with a strong current and was explored for a few metres before a return was deemed prudent. One could also surface in a very small airbell at the top of the rift where water entered down a calcite slope . After a few minutes the eyes became accustomed to the dark and the whole cave can be explored without the need for artificial lights. The total length is 60m and from the extreme limit a clear view out of the entrance is possible. JTG climbed out of the water in the lake chamber but no dry continuation could be found. Difficulty was experienced in kitting up again out of depth in the surging water of the main chamber. The main Cave of Selinitsa contains some 4km of large phreatic tunnels including an enormous chamber floored by breakdown. The cave has been explored and surveyed by the GSS, although it is clear that much remains to be found here. The cave is well decorated but unfortunately vandals have plundered and spoilt many of the beautiful crystal deposits. After 1km of easy walking passage a network of smaller passages is reached and it is here that a short ladder pitch drops into a large and inviting sump pool with water that is slightly brackish indicating a connection with the sea. RJS dived this heading in an upstream direction indicated by the small visible movement of water. A line was already in position and this was followed until it ended after 50m. The passage up to that point is a large tunnel about 5m wide and 3m high with small patches of silt on the floor. An ascent can be made after 20m to a small lake chamber which JTG reached via an alternative overland route. For divers however, it is easier to start at the bottom of the pitch rather than drag the gear to the second sump pool. From the end of the previous dive RJS laid 55m of new line in an easy passage gradually deepening to 12m with visibility at least 20m, i.e. as far as aquaflash torches could penetrate. At several points there were underwater stalactites and stalagmites which came as quite a surprise and gave the diver a rather eerie feeling. At the end a large flooded chamber was reached and the depth appeared to shelve off steeply. Mindful of his third margin, since he was only using 1274l and 425l the diver was obliged to return. Several days later JTG, eager to see for himself the delights of the sump that RJS had been going on about so rapturously, got his chance for a dive. Wearing twin 1274ls he laid 75m of line beyond the entry to the flooded chamber reaching a maximum depth of 17m and ending at 8m depth with the continuation large and inviting. The formations in this section are rather good including a calcite cascade dotted with stalagmites at 15m depth. Diving immediatley on JTG's return RJS made a further 20m of progress to a deep flooded pot, the bottom of which could not be seen. Descending slowly, a large gallery was noted leading off at 12m depth. This seemed a more attractive prospect than the depths below and so it was followed for 10m to a junction with two continuations leading downwards. This time the bottom could be seen below and the diver estimated this to be a depth of 20m. Already overweight at 15m and having difficulty with the twin 1557ls RJS decided to return at this point and so the line was belayed at the junction. Total length 210m and the prospect of much more to come! Having arrived back at base with air to spare RJS examined the downstream continuation to retrieve a cylinder boot lost on the earlier trip. The passage was found to be of similar dimensions to the upstream passage, and shelved off to 10m depth in a silt floored tube. The line was tied off after a further 15m and the wayward boot was recovered. According to the GSS survey the sump pool lies 700m from its assumed rising at the Spring of Dracos, and the prospect of diving from here out into the sea is quite exciting, although it would appear to involve some small passage in the vicinity of the resugance as the discoveries detailed above have shown. The small cave with several entrances was examined via the low entrance near sea level and was found to contain an interesting freedive out into the sea. The obvious continuation quickly chokes and is probably associated with the main cave above and would appear to have little promise. (b). Stradiotis Cave This cave is situated some 30m above sea level on the eastern coast of the Mani peninsula close to the small village of Floiuchori. Our interest was in the diving potential of a rising in the sea below the cave. Giorgos chatted up a local fisherman who kindly consented to take us to the rising in his boat. JTG leapt over the side with mask, fins and snorkel, and examined the rising which was found to be a slot at 3m depth with strong current emerging. The rising was diveable but of small dimensions so we decided to examine the main cave in the hope that the river could be gained from inside as at Selinitsa. Searching back along the coastline to Floiuchori, JTG free dived through to a large lake at the entrance to what seemed to be a cave. At the far end a dry passage could be seen but without a light could not be entered. This may be associated with a hole in the cliffs above which we came across on a walk over to the main Stradiotis Cave. The dry cave was found to be infested with spiders and bats and having spent the best part of an hour slithering about in the detritus we decided there was no negotiable way on. Lacking adequate supplies of air we decided to use our limited reserves on other sites. Any future divers in the area should note that it is desirable to use a boat to reach the rising as the coastline at this point is clad with thickly packed thorny bushes which make walking unpleasant. They should also note that the dirt track stops about 1km short of Floiuchori. The rest is walking through olive groves. 2. Tripolis Region. On our way back to Athens after our visit to the Mani peninsula we visited a resurgence at he village of Kephalari located south east of Tripolis which is in central Peloponesos. The spring is associated with a large rising in the sea at the town of Leonidion on the east coast of Poloponnesos in the Gulf of Argos . Sinks in the mountains behind Tripolis over 30km away have been dye tested by the GSS and shown to emerge at Kephalari and later at Leonidion. The rising in the sea is so powerful that the Greeks have built a sea wall round it and run fresh water back inland to irrigate their fields. Prior to this construction the rising was explored by Italian and Greek divers for only a short distance, the entrance being at a depth of 30m and the passage continuing open beyond the limit of exporation at -40m. The spring at Kelphalari is itself a very powerful rising and even in the height of summer looks to carry about double the flow of Brants Gill in Ribbleshead. The source of the water is beneath the foundations of a church and has been dived for 100m or thereabouts to emerge in a large submerged passage after passing beneath the crypt amongst some very dangerous poised stonework. When we visited the spring the water was distinctly cloudy and we did not dive because of lack of adequate air supplies. The rising is easy to reach by road and the enormous potential of the site which has been demonstrated by the dye tests makes this site an excellent diving prospect. As with all good Greek caves there is a taverna within 100m of the diving site. $C EQUIPMENT AND TECHNIQUES Both divers used conventional wetsuits and found these to be adequate, in fact the temperature of the water was such that no neoprene gloves were worn. The air temperature in the caves was also high and where a carry of some distance to the sump was involved it was more comfortable to change into wetsuits at the sump, swimming trunks and a tee-shirt sufficing for the rest of the cave. Underwater the main problem was one of buoyancy. The use of large tanks over long distances necessitates neutral buoyancy at all depths. If this is not attained too much effort and air is expended in moving along the passage and the visibility can easily be ruined by contact with either the ceiling or the floor. The best method of achieving this would appear to be by means of a life jacket, such as the Fenzy, or a special buoyancy bag strapped to the chest such as the American cave divers. The use of such a jacket is also invaluable when the dive starts in the sea. Swimming to such dives can be very tiring and incorrect weighting only aggravates this problem. Visibility might have been thought to be the least of problems in such sumps. However because it was so good it was worth trying to preserve it and one can understand why the Americans go to such great lengths to avoid stirring up silt. Correct weighting facilitates this, but some things are unavoidable. In the cave of Selinitsa there was a layer of silt on the ceiling which was easily disturbed by one's air bubbles and descended like a muddy snow shower. 4mm orange sinking line was used, 150m being the maximum reeled onto a line reel at one time. Because the sumps are so easy (in terms of size and visibility) there is a great temptation to go what might be considered too far and it is possible that this is an important factor underlying accidents in such sumps, though no study has been made of this. Certainly 150m seems a safe limit to the amount of passage that can be explored while retaining a good knowledge of the route for the return journey. Naturally this limit will depend critically on the diver and the nature of the sump. One useful idea gleaned from the length of line that had been laid in the Cave of Selinitsa was the use of loops of elastic or inner tube to attach the line to boulders and does not entail the extra weight (and expense) involved when lead weights are used to position the line. Whilst talking to a Greek cave diver he expressed his concern that we did not dive in pairs. The English method of training seems to emphasise the self reliance of a diver and indeed in a lot of sumps in the UK, diving in pairs is just not practical. In larger sumps diving in pairs is only of use if one can actually help the other in difficulties. If the latter is encountering problems with his air supply this can normally only be done if one is using an extended low pressure hose, at least with any comfort. Another possibility is that it may be possible to help a diver ensnared in the line. To weigh up against these though is that one may just not have the air reserves to help the other diver and, depending on the reaction of the other diver, this can be extremely dangerous. Also a diver entangled in the line may be forced to cut the line with another diver further into the sump. If the visibility has been stirred up as well this can result in serious problems for the second diver. In the event the divers stuck to what they were used to, that is diving independently. Finally a word on back mounted cylinders. There seems to be no justification for using these rather than side mounted cylinders even in the largest sumps. It is possible to carry as much air round one's waist as on one's back, though it has to be admitted that there are times when both have to be used. The main disadvantage of back mounted cylinders is that their valves are very exposed and it is often not possible to reach them to turn them off. Trying to regulate the flow of air from the back mounted cylinders by turning it on and off (for whatever reason) is extremely difficult. The only minor problem with side mounted cylinders would seem to be the backache experienced when carrying many cylinders. In conclusion cave divers in the UK seem to take pride in the fact that they do things differently because their sumps are different. However, the sumps are not always so different and in many respects they have a lot to learn from their fellow divers abroad, but also many of the techniques used could be usefully adopted for use in the UK. Likewise we do not think that foreign divers always get it right. $C CONCLUSIONS Although we were not able to visit many of the promising regions, what we saw of Greece was sufficient to convince us that there is a great deal of potential for new cave exploration. Moreover, the development of the cave systems is such that diving may be the only way to gain access to the percolation systems which must lie behind the coastline resurgences. We feel sufficiently enthusiastic about the possibilities to plan a return to the sites we visited in 1981 to explore further. The following would be a provisional list of specific aims for 1982: 1. To continue the exploration of Agia Trias on the island of Evia and to produce an up to date survey. 2. To continue exploration of the sumps in Cave of Selinitsa in the upstream direction, where the survey indicates that a further 100m of progress would take the submerged passages beyond the limit so far reached in the dry galleries. This effort might usefully be combined with a party working in the fossil levels where we feel there is much potential. A subsidiary objective would be to further explore the downstream sump leading towards the Spring of Dracos. 3. To begin exploration at the Kephalari rising by repeating the work done by the Italian and Greek divers, and if possible to explore beyond the limit. The main limitations encountered on our 1981 expedition were lack of sufficient time and shortage of air. The reason for the lack of time was that we had to look at as many sites as we could in the time available to us and so we were not able to stay at any one site. Now that we have specific projects to pursue we should be able to plan our time more precisely. With regard to the problem of air, it will be necessary to take a portable compressor with us in 1982. The only filling stations are in Athens and in Patras, which are so far from the areas of interest as to rule out the possibility of using them on a regular basis. It is not practical to carry a sufficient number of charged cylinders to enable a sustained exploration at a remote site to be carried out. There is also the safety factor. During our visit in 1981 we were always careful to allow adequate backup of equipment and air should a diver get into difficulties. For a more concerted exploration effort probably involving more divers, local filling facilities will be essential. In conclusion it can be said that our initial expedition to Greece has confirmed our belief that the country holds good potential for cave diving, and it is well worth a more serious and carefully planned exploration effort. The 1981 trip has laid the basis for further work at several sites, and we have developed useful contacts within the Greek Speleological Society. We are confident that a return visit in 1982 can build on this foundation and further add to our knowledge of cave development in this important and interesting area. $C BUREAUCRACY. There are certain rules and regulations governing caving in Greece, primarily designed to protect the country's archaeological and natural heritage. Generally the authorities take a reasonably relaxed attitude to their enforcement, but if there is any doubt regarding the sites being visited the Greek Speleological Society (GSS) should be contacted with a view to obtaining the necessary clearances. In any event it may be better contacting the GSS outlining the areas one wishes to visit and the aims of the expedition in order to identify the potential problems before one gets there. The GSS acts as the governing body for caving in Greece. It carries out a program of collaborations with foreign clubs, but this does not prevent foreign clubs organising their own expeditions. Out of courtesy, and to avoid duplication of work, the GSS should be informed of any finds. The GSS meets on Wednesday evenings in Athens and their address is as follows:- $C ELLINIKI SPILAILOGIKI ETAIRIA $C MANTZAROU II $C ATHENS $C GREECE Official looking notepaper helps when corresponding with them. Many of them speak fluent English so inability to write in Greek is no handicap. $C ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS. We would like to thank Nikos Tsimsilis, Giorgos Abagianos and the "other" Nikos , all the members of the Greek Speleological Society, for the help they offered us in locating and diving suitable sites, and for the hectic social life they arranged! We would also like to thank Nick and Sally Reckert, and Katriona and Taki Synotis for the hospitality they provided in Athens and the help they gave us in organising the expedition. .blank $e Julian Griffiths [end CDG] [begin ----- DOUG -----] .newpage $c SUPPORT YOUR CRUTCH! $c The Buttockhugger Sitsling Introduction and description This article describes how to construct a sitsling for SRT use, which, whilst not only one of the most comfortable things you've ever strapped around your buttocks is also sparing on the old green and crinklies. The design is based on an obscure make of French baudrier which I picked up in Gay Paree and caved happily on for several years. Recently I became rather uneasy with the thin, rusty bits of wire which did most of the load carrying so I attempted to reconstruct it using sturdy British (hooray) components. The results were very successful and are described below. The major feature of the Buttockhugger is that it consists of just one piece of tape threaded in intricate patterns through various buckles. There is no stitching, there are no knots and F= u N is all that stops you from descending the quickest way. This has immense advantages: for a start it enables you to build a sitsling safely yourself from two-inch tape and when the tape wears out you just buy another 3.5m and rethread it; an immense economy over buying a whole new unit. It's relatively cheap, mine cost just under nine pounds, and it even seems to be safe. .BLANK Construction The worst thing about the Buttockhugger is building it. Working out how to thread it makes solving a cube look simple. The second worst thing is working out how to put it on, but we'll come to that later. .BLANK You will require the following: .DISPLAY No. required Item Ref. on figures 1 and 2 2 Belay 'D' ring 1 2 Black coated bent 3 bar buckle 2 3 Flat plated steel 3 bar buckle 3 (All buckles for 2" tape by Troll) 2" tape (Polyester or nylon tape depending on your cell type. 3.5m is enough for my 34" beer gut) Optional 1m of 5/8" tape Needle and stout tape .ENDD The best thing to do now is to simulate the topology shown in figure 2. Once you've got the thing in front of you it makes a bit more sense and you can adjust it. First you find the middle of the tape, point A on figure 2. Preserve symmetry about this point. Thread on the 'D' rings and two buckles as shown in figure 2. The assemblies should be around 700mm apart when pulled tight. This length forms the belt part. Go on down the ends about 80mm and form the leg loops with the bent buckles. Lay the whole thing flat on the floor with the tape on edge and bring the two loose ends up out of the leg loops and run them both into the last buckle. Hey Presto! Fini, as the French would say. Now comes the awkward bit; by studying figures 3 and 4 you will eventually achieve the intellectual leap which enables you to work out how the various straps relate to your body. Then it's just a case of tediously pushing tape through the buckles until it fits. The leg loop buckles should come just below the hips and the belt should be fairly high up on the back. The buttock strap should provide light support in the sitting position. With a krab or even better a triangular Maillon Rapide between the 'D' rings you now have a viable sitsling. One final optional mod for a really deluxe job. You will find that when you crawl the leg loops drop. This can be prevented by using that piece of 5/8" tape as a kind of suspender from the middle of the back belt. I have only shown this on figure 4 to avoid confusion. Stitch or knot this into place. .BLANK Operation and Tests The Buttockhugger takes your weight mainly on the leg loops and so is very comfy. I have tried it in the NPC testing lab and underground and consider it quite safe. All the components are rated at around two tonnes so things shouldn't start to ping until your ropes and krabs start to do likewise. Your natural position in it is upright and even if you do turn upside down you do not fall out. If by any chance one side should break you are still secure and capable of carrying out all SRT functions although rather uncomfortably. The tape shows no tendency to slip through the buckles even under shock loads. In use the major wear occurs on the tape in the buckles on the hips, but since tape replacement is cheap you can do this as soon as any severe wear shows. A final warning, do make sure that you are very familiar with the way that the various loops relate to the various parts of your body, since once tangled it's rather awkward to work out what goes where. It would be very embarrassing to be rescued from the bottom of a big pitch because you couldn't put your sitsling back on. .BLANK $E Doug Florence [end DOUG] [begin ----- EDITOR -----] .newpage $c EDITORIAL Short but sweet so as not to risk being "boring". I should like to take the opportunity of answering certain comments made by Mr. Checkley in his review of last year's journal, suggesting too much space was devoted to articles which would be of little interest to non-members. About 75% of our journals are sold to current or ex-members of the club, and to those who have close contacts with the club, so I feel we are justified in including articles of this nature, in addition to articles keeping other groups informed as to what CUCC is doing. Many thanks to all those who have submitted articles and surveys; mainly EXCS members as in previous years. Thanks also to Tony for his invaluable services as "Northern Editor", and to those who helped with the typing and collating, especially Charles Butcher, Mark Hunter and Mr. Lewis at Fitz. Cambridge Underground will continue to be published on an annual basis - we hope to bring out next year's early in 1983 as this avoids clashes with exams and May Week for those involved with production. We hope to reprint the 1981 journal which has currently sold out - but copies of past journals from other years are available at 50p each plus p&p. For those wishing to contact us, the club has a permanent mailing address:- .blank .display CUCC c/o Dr. J.C.D. Hickson Pembroke College Cambridge. .endd Apologies for the lack of photographs - but high costs of printing make it not worth our while to include them unless they are of high quality and would reproduce well. Anything else I might have said has been adequately covered by our revered President in his "Bit" - so that's yer lot. Buy me a pint in Yorkshire sometime .... .blank $e Judith Greaves. [end EDITOR] [begin ----- EIRE -----] .newpage $c CUCC EIRE TRIP 20th-27th March 1982 .blank Pete Lancaster, Judith Greaves, Dave Brindle, Philip Sargent, Mike Thomas, John Hibbert, Jem Drummond, Andy Dolby, Steve Crawley, Steve Roberts, Gail Smith, Dave Flatt, Simon Kellet and Doug Florence met at Fishguard at about 0210 Saturday morning on the 20th. This was the result of an organisational epic which had taken most of the previous week to arrange and involved Phil's car from Cambridge, Doug's from Gravesend (via Cardiff), Dave F's from Hampton (via Oxford), Simon's from Cambridge to Rushden and Gail's from Rushden to Fishguard. Ten hours later at Doolin, County Clare, we discovered that Dave B. had booked fourteen of us into a cottage for seven (plus baby) and Steve R. entered into some circumspect negotiation with the owner before we all turned up. We were to be allowed 'about ten' people, but we knew that he knew that we knew that we were going to fit in a few more. During the week an estimated 300 to 350 pints of Guinness were drunk at O'Connor's in Doolin. The next Saturday we drove back East to Wexford where we stopped off for a couple of quick ones at The Wren's Nest, ate the local fast-food shop out of gut-wrenching chips, and took off for Rosslare and the ferry. Since we were less zonked on the return, instead of crashing immediately some of us got to see the generally Noisier and Smellier Parts of the ship with a tour of the engines and generators given by the Irish Engineer. Some also climbed the funnel and photos were taken. Back in Wales a thick fog hampered a rapid return but all got home safely: Gail's car's Flatt-adjusted timing and Philip's car's rewired exhaust notwithstanding. At this point my attention is drawn to the fact that I may have omitted something in this account. Could it be the Grand Bonfire and Brindle's Dead Dog Barbecue on Doolin Beach on Friday night ? Perhaps I have passed over the relaxing cliff walks, castle visits, seashore strolls and Ballyvaughn picnics on Wednesday, or the playing in the breakers on Thursday afternoon in various states of undress: partial, complete, or, in Simon's case, fully-clothed. The gloriously sunny and warm weather of nearly all the week was superb and we were gently woken in the mornings by the gentle strumming of Dave B.'s or Simon's fingers on Gail's squeeze-box (the latter noise being invariably followed by the unmistakeable sound of a Chemical Engineer's fingers being threaded through the lace-holes of his own boots). Doug's mandolin gave John and Steve C. much amusement and the less said about Dave B's penny whistle the better. Anyway, I have it now and I am looking for interesting suggestions of what to do with it to whom. Meals prepared by Doug the Chef (and Head of Extraterrestrial Activities of a well-known, up and coming Trefoil-Furnace development company), ably assisted by whoever was not fast enough to absent themselves from the kitchen in time, are memorable for their equisite flavours and textures, but also mostly for their bulk: some evenings it was all we could do just to look at our pints of Guinness, a shameful thing in Eire. A comfortable lunch on Paddy's at the Roadside Inn, Lisdoonvarna, starlit walks to the cottage from Gus O'Connor's are fond memories. A truly Excellent Trip in every way. .blank $e Philip Sargent [end EIRE] [begin ----- EXCS -----] .newpage $c GREAT KNOUTBERRY INVIOLATE Strange sounds have been heard around the summit of Great Knoutberry in recent weeks - great puffings and gaspings, creakings and groanings, clouds of steam rising along the horizon. No, not the steam of the trains that rattle along the viaduct below on their romantic journeys up to Carlisle (for how much longer they will do so remains a sadly indeterminate question). No, these are less regular, not the powerful rhythm of the great engine, more like the painful wheezing of tortured lungs, grasping for each molecule of air, buffeted inside the heaving chest of some tired and ancient body as it struggles up the slope. Curious tracks meander across the snow covered fells, emerging from a line of depressions to the south-east of Great Knoutberry at a regular height of about 185O feet and running down the Arton Gill track into Dentdale. At the bottom of these inverted cone shaped depressions, in this landscape resembling the pock- marked face of our meteor bombarded companion moon, the tracks become confused; boulders have been newly overturned, their moss coverings torn by unknown forces ; silt-like deposits spread all around; black holes falling through the earth's surface. Around 1963, explorers first entered two holes in this area to find pitches dropping sheer in black and rugged rock to land on boulder floors some 6O feet below. On the 31st January 1981 a party consisting of astronomer, geographer and architect descended Great Knoutberry Hole No.2 in search of endless passages to find only a continuation of 18 feet to one side of the entrance pitch, ending in an impenetrable slot refusing entry to the secrets beyond. On the 14th Februry 1982 one of these explorers returned to the area searching for passages that must surely lie below the wind-swept fell. He found two recently discovered openings. The first, No Opinel Pot, in a line of depressions slightly below those in which the Great Knoutberry Holes lie, is a vertical shaft dropping 15 feet through the familiar black rock to a floor of jammed boulders with signs of a further few feet of drop below. The second, Keyring Cave, following the upper line of shakeholes to the west and over a wall, drops 1O feet into a small dripping chamber twisted around on itself to a tiny descending slit in the wall, the remains of a dead sheep lending a macabre scent of decomposing flesh to the deep darkness. The mystery remains..Whose are those curious imprints in the snow? What secret labyrinths exist beyond the impenetrable slots through which the cold waters flow? We shall not rest until we have the answers to these questions, except if the pubs are open. .blank $e EXCS [end EXCS] [begin ----- FRENCH -----] .newpage $C A HOLIDAY IN THE PYRENEES .blank France has many attractions for the geriatrics of EXCS. There is the cheap wine and food, and also a lot of easy, warm, well-decorated caves - all with very foreign and impressive names. "When I was down Esparros," you can say as you begin another lunchtime tale in the New Inn, knowing that few people will realize that Esparros is like a show cave with the lights dimmed. When you can bore people with tales of easy caves, why bother with the hard trips ? Our previous caving holidays had been spent going down the same gloomy hole day after day. It was exciting treading where no man had gone before, but all too often there was a good reason why no-one else had bothered. So we were off to the Pyrenees with dreams of towering formations and meandering underground rivers, followed by five-course French meals in the local sleepy village. And it was all true. During our three weeks we spent a lot of time travelling and packing up camp but we managed to sample a great variety of French caves, and here are just a few.... Sinai, Lot-et-Garonne If you are offered the chance of 2km of crawling in a sordid little streamway just to see a mud sump, don't bother. We were in no state to make a sensible decision when a trip down Sinai was suggested. After a big meal and an even bigger dose of Armagnac, a quick caving trip seemed the ideal way to round off the evening. But once inside the entrance we soon regretted it. It was unpleasantly like the Penyghent canals, but with nothing at the end. So if you are... Grotte de Labastide, Hautes-Pyrenees We had just had a trip down Esparros, but it was only 2 p.m. and even Ben didn't fancy retiring to the bar. So we dug out our battered copy of Grottes et Canyons and found that Labastide was nearby. There were the usual problems - roaming around the village with book in hand trying to fathom out the obscure directions. But even we couldn't fail to find this one. It's a big entrance, 70 ft by 10 ft, with a grill which is meant to act as an intelligence test to stop vandals getting at the cave paintings inside, while allowing genuine cavers in (vandals are too intelligent). With three lights between the five of us, we strolled off down the huge passage. Tony saw the first painting - he's the artistic one and has a vivid imagination. It looked more like a muddy smudge than a rampant buffalo. But there was the real thing, on a big upright slab, an eight foot high red and black horse. All very atmospheric in the flickering light of our dying carbide lamps. The atmosphere became a bit too dark as two of the lamps went out and we quickly fumbled our way back to daylight. Grotte de pereblanque, Haute-Garonne The Reseau Trombe offers a number of excellent trips all within a small area, set high in the foothills of the Pyrenees. It was early evening when we strode up the track to the campsite. The storm clouds were scattering and soon the mountains were bathed in sunlight - all very idyllic, until we rounded the final bend and found thirty Chelsea S.S. cluttering up the scene. But there was plenty of room for everyone in this perfect campsite of sheltered mountain pastures. With nearby streams, plenty of firewood and a choice of first class caving within a hundred yards, you could happily spend several weeks here. Our first trip was down the Mille and into the vastness of the Trou de Vent. It is used as the local novice cave - we found two parties of schoolgirls at -300m, and it's well worth a visit. Next day it was time for sterner stuff and so we toiled uphill following the worn path to the obvious entrance of Peneblanque. The icy wind blowing out from the depths was a great relief after the heat and sweat of the walk. With a level sandy floor, a glorious view and built in air conditioning, is this the perfect changing room? Rapid progress was easy in the large entrance series. Routefinding was fairly simple- the only difficulty is ten minutes in where there is a chaotic area, but the way is well scratched.The account in Grottes et Gouffres is quite adequate, whilst still keeping its air of mystery which is so sadly lacking in the boringly accurate Northern Caves. Walking passages led to small tubes and a series of slippery slopes - just slide down and forget about how difficult they will be on the return.The odd pitch follows and then you get into the bigstuff. And it gets bigger and bigger until you emerge in the huge silence of the Salle du Dromadaire. A bit more passage, another pitch and there's a big black hole, the way on down into the far reaches of the system. But we were there for fun,so we went out, back in time to enjoy a meal in daylight and to get a fire going before the start of the evening's display of shooting stars. .blank Gouffre Raymonde, Haute-Garonne .blank This sporting trip had been recommended by a number of people. So armed with scraps of paper covered with jottings of various estimates of pitch lengths and a rough sketch survey, we stumbled off into the grey drizzle. Ignoring the bolts, we belayed the rope for the entrance pitch to a rotting tree-just to ensure a sporting hang with lots of rubs. Down the 30m pitch and scrabbling on down rifts,round boulders, gaining depth easily. Then a fine 50m hang from huge boulders down to the streamway.A quick romp along the streamway, a couple of short pitches and the water disappears into a great darkness. It was suddenley very cold and wet as we peered down into the black swirling spray. But once the big rope was down the 130m pitch, it soon warmed up again. With the crashing waterfall out of reach and perfect rebelays, all you had to do was sit back on your rack and enjoy the view. The final 80m drop landed in the middle of a small lake, and forced along by the roaring draught, we continued on down the streamway. A couple of short pitches and the final wet one of 50m. But we were now soaked through and fearful of the rain on the surface, we began our retreat. With heavy ropes, now too tangled and bulky to fit in the tackle bags, we slowly prussiked up the pitches and struggled up the entrance rifts, emerging to a dismal rain soaked evening. A glorious memorable day which came to a perfect ending when squatting outside the tents in the rain, stirring a disgusting stew, I managed to upset the lot into the mud. And when we tasted it, we wished we'd left it there. .blank Summary .blank Ken Baker, John Bowers, Andy Connolly, Tony Malcolm, Ben van Millingen spent three weeks in August 1981 eating, drinking, mixing concrete and caving in the Pyrenees. They relied on personal recommendations, "Grottes et Canyons" and local maps for information. As well as the trips described, they made half-hearted descents of Reveillon, Viazac, Esparros, Mille, Betchanka and Castaret. .blank $e John Bowers [end FRENCH] [begin ----- GERMAN -----] .newpage $c THE GERMAN ROUTE, STELLERWEGHOHLE .BLANK 3 The German route was looked at in 1980 (a complete description is in Cambridge Underground 1981) and the survey appears here only for completeness. This route starts soon after the 41 entrance by turning right instead of left (see main survey). Exploration ceased 140m below the start of the pitches when the way on became tight - this was 180m below the entrance. It undoubtedly drops back into the system lower down, but was not felt to be worth pushing. [end GERMAN] [begin ----- INTRO#41 -----] .newpage $c AUSTRIA 1981 .BLANK 3 For newcomers to Cambridge Underground, a few words may be in order about our involvement with Austria. The first CUCC expedition in 1976 stayed at the small village of Altaussee, 55km southeast of Salzburg and on the southwestern fringe of the Totes Gebirge - and we have had no reason to move. The 77-79 expeditions worked on the Loser Plateau and found 82 (-215m), 97 (-265m) and 106 (-506m) (see map). The numbers are those of the Austrian Catalogue and should be prefixed by the area code 1623/. The 1980 expedition concentrated on an area further south (and nearer the car park at the top of the toll road); this was the region near the Stoger Weg, path no. 201. 113 (Sonnenstrahlhohle) went to -329m; 41 (Stellerweghohle) was still going at -350m; and 115 (Schnellzughohle, but referred to as Gemsescheissehohle in last year's journal) was discovered. The 41 entrance is just above the path near the point where it drops sharply and 115 is nearby, below the path. It was with the intention of looking at these two pots that the 1981 expedition went out for the first three weeks of August. This year's expedition included a large number of new faces. The usual EXCS contingent had decided to give Austria a rest for a year and live it up in the Pyrenees; so that there were mostly resident CUCC members on this year's trip.They were joined by a large party from the UBSS,some of whom had been to Austria before.Although the expedition as a whole lacked experience outside Britain, the larger than usual number of very enthusiastic and able speleos gave hopes of a succesful expedition Those partaking of regular refreshment in the Bar Fischer were: .blank .display Rich Barker UBSS Dave Brindle CUCC Chas Butcher CUCC John Cownie CUCC Judith Greaves CUCC Simon Kellet CUCC Pete Lancaster CUCC Jane Lolly Tim Lyons UBSS Fraser Macdonald CUCC Mike Martin UBSS Pat Martin UBSS Mick McHale UBSS Janet Morgan BUPC Clive Owen UBSS Rob Parker SWCC Tim Parker CUCC Steve Perry UBSS/CUCC Phil Townsend CUCC Julian Walker SWCC Martin Warren UBSS .endd .blank four of whom had caved on the CUCC expedition in previous years. The expedition intended to continue the exploration of 41 and 115 from 198O and so Altaussee was the obvious place to stay.The steady influx of nineteen cavers, their cars, ropes, and heaps of smelly tackle came as rather a shock to Fritz the campsite owner and even more so to the other campers.The half-sized campsite rapidly became overcrowded- some of us nearly had to sleep in t'bottom o't'lake with only a handful of cold ravioli for breakfast.This overcrowding was certainly a factor, along with the hedgehog, in the spreading of the dreaded Lurgi in the second week, when everybody on the site was struck down at some time by the legendary Spanish tummy, Delhi belly, or whatever you care to call it.This illness nearly had serious consequences when several people were taken ill underground, one particularly badly,leading to a certain lack of enthusiasm to enter 115 amongst other cavers for fear of what they might put their hands in! Many thanks are due to our eminent expedition surgeon for ministering to the sick with undying affection. CUCC will not forsake Fritz another opportunity of forcing them to drink a crate of beer on arrival; Seecamping Madlmeier will see them again next year.As in previous years a special rate was negociated for the toll road - bottles of Scotch should go on the top of any quartermaster's list of essentials. An accident-free three weeks on the driving front was an unexpected achievement considering the many early hours trips back from the plateau and our previous record of crashes. The arrival of the UBSS in force on the Loser this year was particularly useful from an equipment point of view.They had received and spent a sizeable grant on expedition tackle so that there was enough rope to explore two large caves at once and furthermore no necessity to chop up personal rope.The UBSS also provided much of the transport in the first week. It was decided that the UBSS/SWCC Hohlenforschers would concentrate on 41 whilst CUCC renewed the attack on 115.This decision was based purely on the fact that Steve Perry knew where 41 was and Simon Kellet purported to know the whereabouts of 115.In fact everyone who wished got a trip in both caves; which produced some constructive criticism of the rigging in 115! The exploration of 41 was perhaps carried out by too few and as a result very long tackling trips were undertaken, worth many hero points but leaving several days when no-one entered the cave.The rigging was a superb piece of engineering and the cave a real pleasure to descend.In contrast 115 was overmanned, largely because the prospect of breaking new ground was present from the first trip, and some pretty unimaginative rigging was done.It is fair to say that the entrance series of 115 to the steamway, does not lend itself to long free-hanging pitches, much of the depth being gained in hading rifts; any exploration next year ought to start by rigging a more enticing route in. Once the streamway and dry high-level dry phreatic maze had been reached in 115, and a similar situation revealed in 41 the chance of a connection became more than a dream.A 115 trip to find a bypass to the first arduous 500m of streamway discovered a considerable amount of phreatic passage, some with seemingly anomalous draughts. Finding no obvious right way on a cairn was built at the farthest point of exploration and a decision to push on down the streamway made. Three days later a pushing trip in 41 discovered the cairn and the connection was made. Unfortunately it now became easier to get into the system so that the more spectacular and better-rigged entrance was used only for tourist through-trips and may not be rigged next year. The exploration of the streamway was dogged by illness, badly coordinated trips in which teams reached the bottom to find that there was insufficient rope or the bolt kit had been taken out, and by the arduous nature of the first tight 500m of streamway. It will be necessary to find a high level route if the exploration is not to involve twenty hour trips and a lot of enthusiasm. Very little prospecting was done this year, and most of it concentrated on finding a third entrance to the 41/115 system. 32 is a promising hole but requires either a lot of hammer wielding or an application of Dr. Nobel's Linctus. The region to the north of 113 has yet to be investigated, largely because it is a long walk to lug tackle! CUCC is not in the habit of mounting serious scientific expeditions and this was no exception. Surveying was the ususal pain in the posterior and the club lacks a committed cartographer to sit around in the cold distasteful bits of 115. The club does have a surfeit of geologists but they showed very little interest in applying their brains to the hydrology and geology of the system, though they did find some "pretty fossils - **** knows what they are". CUCC may be criticized for not moving to pastures new, but the fact remains that the Loser Plateau continues to provide good caving, considerable depth potential - the current bottom of 41/115 is around 800m below the entrance to Eislufthohle - and is a very accessible area. This latter part has to be the greatest advantage, after all for most participants the expedition is a holiday and so there should be a minimum amount of donkey work, trekking and roughing it involved, and easy access to beer, Apfelstrudel and Pfeffersteaks. .blank $e Phil Townsend [end INTRO#41] [begin ----- MAGNET -----] .newpage $c MAGNETOMETER - EARTHWORM EXTENSIONS Rob and Julian noticed a new choke down near Earthworm Passage in Magnetometer Pot on a diving trip. Coming from the Whale it is situated at the end of the rift you can stand up in where the passage to Earthworm leads off to the right. They pulled a few boulders out until a stream could be heard and a continuing passage could be seen. The next trip down was armed with some digging gear and rope to pull away the more precarious boulders. Unfortunately the worst didn't move and those that did had a knack of only falling when someone was standing underneath them. The way on is a climb up through the choke following the stream that flows through the boulders. Here the passage rises to standing room. To the left a small inlet passage leads off, starting at stooping height but rising as the stream cuts into the mud banks. It stops after 150ft in a solid calcited choke. Back at the main passage a stream runs in the floor with banks of mud on the right. The stream comes out of a choke which is bypassed to the right. Above this is a muddy chamber. On the right is a solid wall, at the foot of which is a very low bedding plane the other side of which is thought to be Earthworm Passage. In the chamber under the left hand wall are two choked pools, probably connected to the stream leading to the original choke at the start of the dig. Above these pools is a short thrutch through more boulders. Here the passage drops down to a hole leading to a 20 foot hands and knees crawl. The next trip by Rob and Julian was to investigate the different pools in the extension. All of them were found to be choked. Abandoning their bottles they continued to the muddy crawl. This changes from hands and knees to an incredibly muddy body sized tube for 30 feet - you stick to every wall. The tube ended at the top of a pitch for which they had no ladder. That evening Julian caught Ben in an enthusiastic mood i.e. in the pub, and persuaded him he wanted to go caving the next day. Taking a ladder for the pitch at the end of the tube, a bolt was put in the wall as there is no natural belay. The take off is rather awkward especially for those with long legs as the tube extends right up to the head of the pitch. 15 feet down lands in a foot deep pool of water seemingly with no way on. Unfortunately a very narrow crack of air provides the way on through a sporting duck under the wall opposite the tube. It emerges in a flat out crawl. A small passage was noticed just after this on the right but the route followed was straight ahead to where the roof rises slightly only to find the passage is blocked by stal. Some time was spent digging at this until it was discovered one could squeeze through. Assuring Ben he'd never get through, Julian disappeared into the continuing passage. After twenty feet a stream was met and downstream the passage was blocked again by stal. Upstream the passage continued for some 250 feet ending in a choke. On the way back a junction with a dry passage was explored. A crawl emerged in a rather large phreatic passage, but remembering his assistant lying in a pool of water back at the stal Julian returned. A team of four returned to survey and finish the exploration. The small passage just after the duck was followed rather than the straight ahead route, and this bypassed the stal blockage. Downstream the passage was found to end in an unpleasant sump. Upstream the dry crawl was followed to a 15x20 foot phreatic passage ending abruply after 40 feet. The passage turned sharply left down to a sump with a mud and boulder slope preventing further progress. Two people were left to look at any loose ends while the others went out surveying only to find that they possessed a very erratic compass. Reaching the 15 foot pitch, what had been a small trickle had now turned into a torrent. However the duck in the pool at the bottom of the pitch remained passable which suggests that the pool must drain somewhere. Though many of the passages at the bottom of Magnetometer undoubtedly do fill up with water, many trips have been undertaken when the weather is extremely wet. On this trip water was flowing over the boulders at the start of the extension rather than just through them, but there was no noticeable increase in water level throughout the rest of the cave. Surveying trips down Magnetometer seem to be devilled with bad luck: one trip to survey some new passage in Cow Close was curtailed by a distinctly nasty medical complaint; trips to Earthworm extensions were foiled once by an erratic compass and on another occasion by a boulder falling out of the roof at the start of the greasy tube onto someone's hand. Since then however the survey has been completed with no more excitement than a multiple light failure. The total length of 700 to 800 feet of new passage with five new sumps and three new streams adds to the interesting and complex nature of Magnetometer breaking into some large phreatic passage, though intersected by some extremely sordid sections. It is an area that deserves further attention, heading as it does towards Penyghent. .blank $e Ben van Millingen [end MAGNET] [begin ----- PBIT -----] .newpage $c THE PRESIDENT'S BIT I shall abandon the normal practice of writing about a complete academic year and relate what has happened since the last "bit" i.e. Summer '81 to Easter '82. At the end of last year the club was doing pretty well for itself, being large enough to do classic trips and still take novices caving. The pre- and post tripos meets in very dry conditions saw Hammer, Gingling, Black Shiver and Pippikin all bottomed as well as many of the more usual trips. This slice of club history was rounded off by a very successful Austrian expedition, which was unusual in that most of the members were still at Cambridge or had just left and for many it was their first taste of foreign caving. Despite this lack of experience of expedition caving, a solid base of Yorkshire pot bashing, coupled with much good luck meant that CUCC got to its deepest ever: -680m (plus or minus a bit). So the academic year 81-82 opened with quite a reputation to keep up. The squash and coach meet to Carlswalk were as polished as ever, but at the end of it all we emerged with our lowest recruitment ever. To some extent this can be blamed on our unwillingness to extract money from people (!), and also on the recession with students being rather more careful how they spent their meagre grant; however it seems that the only people we didn't recruit were those who normally contribute to the ghost membership of the club, and overall we were in the same position as ever. One problem which became apparent during the year was the lack of sufficient experienced members both to lead novices and to go on glory trips, and we were fortunate that this year novice trips took preference rather than a peeling off of the "hards" into their own clique as has happened in the past. Last year was exceptional in that there were sufficient older members to allow both sorts of trip on the same meet. The solution seems to be to reserve vacation and private meets for classic trips and to look after novices on the normal term time club meets - to let them do their own thing can only result in disaster as was shown by the rescue in 1979. Anyway, amongst the pots we finally got down were: Rowten, Sleets Gill, Cherry Tree, Wade's Entrance, Slasher (bottomed at last), Lost Johns, Magnetometer, Disappointment, County, South Wales, Mendip including a fine free diving trip to Swildons 9; and for the first time in 8 years, CUCC actually bottomed Langcliffe, even if it did take rather a long time. To do our bit for conservation we have joined the scheme run by "Descent" and adopted Tatham Wife Hole. On our first cleaning trip down there we removed two fertiliser bags full of rubbish; we hope to do this regularly in the future. On the tackle front: to replace our decimated ladder stock, 100m were constructed in about 4 days, and it doesn't really seem worth building it in quantities much less than this, since once the skills have been relearned ladder can be churned out at an alarming rate. Despite the expedition, SRT was not used much in Yorkshire; I think the first flush of excitement has worn off and it has been realised that there are remarkably few trips where it is worth using. The club's policy of abseiling down lifeline (i.e. 11mm laid nylon not specifically reserved for SRT) and self lining up has come in for some criticism. I think that the length of pitches on which we use the method (130ft or less), and fairly good abrasion resistance of the rope make the sacrificing of some safety acceptable for the increased speed and simplicity. Our distance from the caves has supplied the usual problems, but slogging up the A1 does nothing but increase our keenness to go caving when we do get there. There were few private cars in the club this year and this has meant the additional expense of hiring a minibus and/or cars - but it looks as if the University Societies Syndicate will be subsidising transport to some extent and this will certainly be quite a breakthrough. On other financial matters, we get far less money than most other university clubs, but have evolved a reasonable system whereby only ladders, lining ropes and belays are owned by the club; and lights, krabs and SRT ropes etc are individuallly owned. Producing a journal every year almost bankrupts us, but we survive somehow. The older members (formally grouped together as EXCS) have been as active as ever in Yorkshire and elsewhere, and it is largely for their efforts that this journal exists. You can read about Magnetometer further on, but not mentioned is that after many years of hard work, the Goyden - New Goyden connection has been established by divers Rob Shackleton and Julian Griffiths. Undergraduate members are too busy pot bashing and gaining experience to worry about such sordid and time consuming activites as digging, and although resident members can hope to do little original exploration in this country, there is always the surveying to be helped with at the end of it all, and the chance of glory in Austria. The ex-members are a vital part of CUCC, to provide experience when the club is flagging, inspiration ("the time we bottomed Penyghent in only 4 hours"), and to maintain the continuing traditions of the club. To sum up then, this year has been largely successful, despite the apparent lack of new members, and this just goes to show that no matter what happens to the club, it will still bounce back; for where two or more are drinking together - there is CUCC. I look forward to the 1982 expedition; it should provide good reading in next year's journal, and wish the club a healthy future. .blank $e Pete Lancaster. [end PBIT] [begin ----- PERRY -----] .newpage $c UBSS IN AUSTRIA - STELLERWEGHOHLE AND THE CONNECTION .blank Stories of pitches, classic continental rigging and depth, honour and glory attracted the UBSS to join CUCC in Austria. With them came the state of art tackle they had bought to the keen specification of their more experienced members. The latter came too, though not all of their experience had been of caving over the previous few years. One, a Doctor noted for his energy, sent out to buy an Escort for transport misinterpreted his brief and provided a racy little sportster. The others showed good humour by providing the real transport; an Escort advertising longevity and the redundancy of prissy bodywork, and an Imp with a trailer its own size. The trailer was in quite reasonable repair. Your correspondent provided a tent suitable for the bridge parties and a cook to double as decoration and baggage for the sportster. We were joined in Austria by two SWCC members - whose tackle we left in England as we were not going to stand for 'Hangers On' taking advantage. Unknown to us, these muscular youths had firm invitations and were hurt by our short measure; understandably - we agreed - as we watched them hurl a lesser Politician from our ranks far into the icy lake. We fortunately had some spare kit for them and were thus joined by two most pleasant and powerful cavers. The walk to Stellerweghohle (41a) takes a contoured path from the restaurant overlooking the campsite. In the sun it is an enjoyable stroll made serious only by the thoughts of caving ahead. Memories of the long slog across the plateau on previous trips are recounted with expansive gestures over the skyline, and just a hint of 'hard days remembered' in the eyes. The easy efficiency of our path soon leads to an orange paint blob marking the start of the winding climb up through thick bush and stone gullies to the 41a entrance. Below, a more serious slither leads down to 115. The entrance belches cold air, welcome relief to sweat for just a moment before the various chills of present, past and future cool the mind. The route to the big pitch follows phreatic passages developed along inclined bedding planes. It is crossed by 45 degree ramps which are traversed, several with the aid of fixed lines. The first pitch bypass (found on a trip for which I created lateral opportunities by forgetting to include rock anchors in the tackle) takes one of these ramps down, then along the strike to join the bottom of the pitch chamber. The final ramp is descended, dropping down the base of its 'T' section, then over large boulders to the division of the rift. To the right last year's route gains an airy take-off made torrid (does he really mean this word ? typist) by mud and spoilt further by rebelays at several contact points. To the left, a couple of 10m abseils lead to a fine free hang for the big pitch: a splendid 100m drop, hanging at times at least 10m from the nearest wall, broken only by a free rebelay in slings. At the foot of the pitch a stream runs down the rift, then below an awkward traverse section which is followed by a series of progressively wetter and tighter pitches. These were rigged as tight as possible. We remember the sound of flood pulses - possibly more inhibiting in the telling than to the cold flesh (what _does_ he mean ? typist) but a feature not to take lightly in a place with the promise of this cave. A hammered squeeze on a 6m pitch adds interest as a marker of better to come - not the least interest is the thought of others negotiating it. Strange comfort. An awkward 7m pitch then a stretchy climb (up over large boulders and losing the water) follows the rift into a magnificent cleft some 3m wide and over 100m high. Oddly it was at this spot last year that we directed attention to an alternative route (the 'German Route') for 3 days, pushing to -180m in increasingly nasty sharp, tight passage. Odd how that narrow rift quietened enthusiasm with such a superb way lying ahead. The rote on follws the now dry rift and includes numerous small pitches and traverse rebelays. The water is rejoined and the passage roof closes over to within 10m in places. The final pitches are in clean washed round pots with a stream lip and more spray from above. The walls are striated (ENTIRELY the wrong word, typist) with the fossils of large molluscs (bivalves about 30cm across). The rift must surely plunge on down, grey and businesslike, and deep. Here, on our third major rigging-in day, we placed a final bolt ahead of last year's progress. We had consolidated the route with fine rigging in preparation for the pushing trips beyond. Each trip had been tiring to the experienced members, now we were damp as well and still the return to make. During the ascent one wondered what one was doing here; (****, typist) building character or the foundation of more good stories ? Certainly we had provided the basis for a memorable through trip as the next visit revealed. We even lured the 115 contingent down to this spectacle of fine cave and tasteful rigging and the through trip gave us the opportunity to curl a lip over the 115 entrance series. The last pitch drops into Junction Chamber. Turning right one follows a gently descending stream. Soon the way traverses the rift above the stream. Above (after 40m) a hole in the roof leads to a series of small and dusty tubes. We are in a phreatic zone. After a few bends the passage on closes down to a short flat out crawl regaining the stream. More traversing on dusty loose mud ledges in the passage roof gains a hole in the roof and a series of phreatic tubes of railway tunnel proportions. These tubes can be followed back to the Junction Chamber entering about 10m above the floor. Ahead they take a series of swooping inclines punctuated by dramatic bends. This area was much appreciated by the surveying party. A final incline to a sharp left bend regains the stream in its rift and reveals the sight, surprising to the the first explorers, of a cairn. From this lowest point of the connection there are two routes on - one a traverse over the stream then a climb over large boulders into a passage entering from the left; the other a 0.75m hole at floor level to the left of the start of the final incline. The two ways join in an uphill sandy passage (1.5m high by 3m wide). At some stage one should appreciate the significance of the cairn - marking the limit of exploration of a side line in 115. The eagerness to get out through 115 may have reduced interest in 41a, a shame as it was only later that we looked at another exit from Junction Chamber. Anyway, following the uphill passage one can reflect on the peace of this area, the comfort and ease of progress. A nice site for a bivvy if necessary. Next a flat out crawl hardly slows progress into the teeth of a healthy draft. Enthusiasm is rewarded by a motorway (almost) sized passage (all things, the educated mind realises, are relative. John Parker once described a passage: "It's huge in places, one can stand up even." This passage is really big). Now turning right - who knows what lay to the left - A further 90m of phreatic tube lead to the 115 main stream passage. Our next interest in 41a lay in derigging it. This came after a suitable period for through trips both of a caving and an enteric nature - which some of our party combined. This was approached from 115 to provide variety. At Junction Chamber we noted the obvious and hitherto ignored 15m climb leading left into a choice of phreatic passages with further avens gaping above - a really large Junctional Complex. To the right after 50m the passage lead to a rift above a stream. The other choice was a large phreatic tube (10m by 10m) in which easy progress down a 30 degree slope gained 50m of depth. This scramble down boulders leads to a cross-rift after about 150m. To the right a stream, to the left a traverse after a short distance. It is galling to find such a passage on your derigging trip, but that's why the description stops here. .blank $e Steve Perry [end PERRY] [begin ----- RES -----] .newpage .display $c Cambridge University Caving Club .blank $c 1981/82 .blank 5 _Committee_ .blank 2 .indent 6 .tabset 30 50 Dr J.C.D.Hickson $T Senior Treasurer $T Pembroke Pete Lancaster $T President $T St John's Dave Brindle $T Secretary $T Queens' Terry Carroll $T Junior Treasurer $T Robinson Charles Butcher $T Tackle Manager $T Corpus Christi John Hibbert $T Librarian $T St John's Judith Greaves $T Editor $T Clare Mike Thomas $T $T Pembroke Pat Trelogan $T $T CCAT .indent 0 .blank 8 $c -oOo- .blank 8 _Resident Members_ .blank .tabset 18 36 55 Prof. J.F.Adams $T Trinity $T Julia Hawkins $T Selwyn Pamela Abbot $T CCAT $T Caroline Hirons $T CCAT Steve Ardron $T Churchill $T Alison Howett $T Trinity Nigel Beaumont $T Queens' $T Mark Hunter $T Trinity John Benjamin $T Trinity $T Tim King $T Trinity Mark Bennett $T Corpus Christi $T Nick Laffoley $T St Catherine's Sally Bliss $T CCAT $T Jintae Lee $T Darwin Alison Borlase $T CCAT $T Steve Lloyd $T Robinson Piete Brooks$T Trinity $T Fraser Macdonald$TCorpus Christi Alison Carey $T Trinity Hall $T Cecilia Mottram $T CCAT Steve Crawley $T St John's $T Steve Roberts $T Queens' Ursula Collie $T St Catherine's $T Phil Sargent $T Robinson Brian Derby $T Wolfson $T Andy Strangeways $T CCAT Mark Davenport $T Sidney Sussex $T Rebecca Taylor $T Robinson Andrew Dolby $T Caius $T Paul Thomas $T St John's Steve Douglas $T St John's $T James Thompson $T Corpus Christi Jeremy Drummond $T Queens' $T Linda Tyas $T Newnham Iain Hamilton $T Robinson $T Paul Weaver $T Pembroke .blank 6 $c _1982 Dinner Awards_ .blank $c Golden Boot - Charles Butcher $c Silver Slipper - Steve Perry .endd [end RES] [begin ----- SURVEY -----] .newpage $c THE SURVEY .BLANK 3 Surveying was not the strong point of this year's expedition; it is hoped that we can do better next year. The entrance series of 115 to the head of the Ramp and 41 down to the pitch just above Junction Chamber were surveyed to BCRA Grade 5 in 1980 and these surveys have been published in Proc. UBSS vol.16(1). 115 from the ramp to the bottom of the pitches and the connection were both surveyed to Grade 4 (the survey of the connection is reproduced here), making a closed traverse with the surface survey between the entrances. Unfortunately, although they closed vertically to within 2m, the plan closure was wildly out. It is thought that this might have been due to a sticky compass on the 1980 survey. The length of Pete's Purgatory was found to be 800m but no other details were measured. Below this, the section of the streamway from the inlet to the 'twelve foot climb' (marked as c5) was surveyed to Grade 3 and this is extrapolated downstream on the Grade 1 survey to give a total depth of 680m plus or minus 40m. One point which the elevation does not bring out is the way that Stellerweg spirals round on itself with changes of direction at the big pitch and at Junction Chamber. The final direction of the streamway seems to be northwest - heading back into the mountain and away from the lake. [end SURVEY] [begin ----- TOTES -----] .newpage $c CAVE DEVELOPMENT IN THE TOTES GEBIRGE,AUSTRIA .BLANK INTRODUCTION In reading through material related to this discourse I discovered reference to the writings of Cvijic, who had devoted considerable effort to the study of the extensive karst region of Jugoslavia, drawing certain conclusions as to the formation of that area, which I incorporate here as background to the area of Austria we have visited over the last few years considering its apparent similarities. The basis for Cvijic's cycle of erosion requires three factors to be present: a thick and extensive mass of limestone, accompanied by an underlying impermeable rock for the initiation of a stream pattern. "A study of the Totes Gebirge region (the Northern Limestone Alps), shows that it is composed mainly of Alpine Triassic and Jurassic (limestone), nonconformably overlain by paralic and largely detrital sediments of late Cretaceous and early Tertiary age (the Gosau Beds found in small scattered concentrations). The main elements of the Northern Limestone Alps are massive carbonate series of the Middle and Upper Triassic which may reach thicknesses of over one kilometre. Below and between the massive carbonate members are found thinly bedded series of shales and evaporites." The requirements seem amply fulfilled. Cvijic's cycle then has three phases of development; in Youth the upper impermeable layer is removed by streams which then go underground through enlarged joints and fissures, the drainage pattern disintegrates, streams flow down normal valleys only to disappear into solution holes at blind ends. In Late Maturity the underground streams reach the impermeable underlying stratum and cavern roofs collapse, the limestone cover is reduced to a few outliers honeycombed with caves, and is finally removed. In the area of the Totes Gebirge the Youth phase has been passed with almost no surface drainage now apparent, although Sonnenstrahlhohle is an example of the result of a previous surface stream pattern which once flowed down a well defined valley into its impressive entrance chamber (partially collapsed). The surface is now generally composed of highly jointed limestone with no soil to prevent water from passing directly underground. How far the area has moved into the Mature stage is the question of greatest interest to the speleologist in the search for a deep system, a question which will be answered by continued exploration. .ensure 5 .BLANK DETAILED CONSIDERATION In the two major systems discovered to date we have encountered the two forms of cave entrance in the shaft like solution hole of Eislufthohle, and the funnel- shaped depression of Sonnenstrahlhohle (considered likely to be the top entrance to the Stellerweg system). In this context their relative positions on the massif are interesting (see map and section). Returning to Cvijic's erosion cycle, the original surface stream pattern formed on an impermeable layer has, in the case of Sonnenstrahlhohle, followed a well-defined route towards the edge of the massif where it has met a weak point in the limestone structure in the form of a slip fault. The angle of the passage in this cave and Stellerweg is similar (around 60 degrees from the horizontal) and conforms to the notion of water eroding along a line of least resistance, along this fault. In the case of Eislufhohle the situation is rather different (refer to map, section and surveys). The cave is situated roughly centrally in a depression surrounded on three sides by steep slopes - a depression of bare, heavily-jointed limestone. During the ice age this high ground would have been covered with a permanent ice field. In this situation the erosional processes would be concentrated under the snow allowing a depression to be formed, itself enlarged into a more circular plan by the action of ablation around its edges. As the depression begins to form its development accelerates as snow becomes more readily captured in it and its permanence becomes enhanced as its bulk reduces the effects of temperature fall. As opposed to the tremendous abrading of the valley glaciers, solution becomes the dominant erosional process as meltwaters flow under the ice searching for the easiest way down to the water table. Over long periods of time a cave system is formed draining the plateau. The position of the water table then begins to affect the formation of the cave. As long as the water table is beneath the surface, water will percolate down along the easiest route, defined by the structure of the rock itself. The actual form of the water table will itself be dependent on the permeability of the rock - small and irregular joints will form the water table into a dome shape before the pressure of water is sufficient to produce lateral movement; conversely, if the joints have been enlarged by solution (i.e. a cave system exists) the water will escape rapidly producing an almost flat water table. In Sonnenstrahlhohle there are four levels at which horizontal cave development has occurred. The entrance series results from the direct action of the surface water in its original pre-glacial pattern flowing into the fault and searching for the easiest way down. Down in fact to the second level of horizontal activity at around 1600 metres, at which level a large chamber with side phreatic passages has formed. This is the same level as the horizontal entrance series found in Stellerweg (see surveys). (It should be noted that the angle of the elevation for the 113 survey does not demonstrate the extent of the horizontal development. For a better picture see plan of 113, Cambridge Underground 1981.) The series of shafts that dissect the horizontal route from above and continuing below, are the later routes formed by water percolating down from the denuded limestone surface to the much reduced water table below these abandonded upper phreatic sections. By this stage the surface drainage pattern has disappeared and the cave has become a collector of water from numerous sources rather than its original stream route. The horizontal phreatic tube 'entrance' to Stellerweg is a long-abandoned resurgence. At 1600 metres, therefore, Sonnenstrahlhohle has become a collector for waters searching for the water table which, following the advance of the neighbouring valley glacier, has been greatly lowered. The cave enters a vertical phase, a large shaft enlarged by spray action, until it reaches 1500 metres at a very jagged broken floor with an immature stream outlet and a small meandering phreatic tube opening once more onto an enormous shaft section - this has no apparent equivalent in Stellerweg (perhaps it can be attributed to a localized change in the character of the rock). The termination of the next vertical section is, however, directly reflected in Stellerweg at 1400 metres. There is considerable horizontal development in Stellerweg at this level which has not been explored as yet, but suggests the possibility of a link with Sonnenstrahlhohle because of the abandoned phreatic development evident there also and an apparent continuation of that section, unfortunately blocked by boulders at present. The complex phreatic entrance series to 115 is also located at this level. This is obviously the level of the water table following the first major invasion of ice in this area. The large, now abandoned, phreatic cave passages developed during a period of stability during and after the retreat of the ice, emerging as tubes of varying sizes from the valley sides. These holes are, however, now perched several hundred metres up the sheer slopes. Following a further advance of the ice which brought about a further severe reduction of the valley floor and thus the water table, in Stellerweg and 115 we find a further phreatic level developed extensively at 1200 metres, at which a tortuous streamway meanders at a gentle incline before descending in a further series of pitches. It is interesting to make a comparison between these closely related caves, and it is also interesting to note (see map, section and surveys) the apparent direct relationship of the development of Eislufthohle to the features of the caves at the edge of the massif some two kilometres away to the north. It is clear that Eislufthohle has a level of horizontal, if not distinctly phreatic, development at around 1400 metres - the same as in Stellerweg and Sonnenstrahlhohle. If these levels defining stages of development of the caves correspond directly, the resultant very flat water table suggests a veritable network of caves sending water rushing away to the edges of the limestone. Further the level of the sump in Eislufthohle compares with the phreatic level around 1200 metres in Stellerweg. .ensure 5 .BLANK CONCLUSIONS The indications are that, considering its close proximity and similarity of development to Stellerweg, Sonnenstrahlhohle should continue to a depth approaching that of Stellerweg and may well join it. The doubts raised are whether the next section, the first in fact in the cave, of wet and awkward streamway will lead to the head of a shaft, as has already happened in Stellerweg. Clearly the streamway does not end immediately as it did not back up in its constricted passage in flood conditions, and there was still a strong draught at this level. With progress down to this point being relatively straightforward, a further visit seems imperative. The question of Eislufthohle is an interesting one. Depending on the point of view, two different conclusions may be drawn: if the cave ends at 115O metres, the water table is domed and there will be no hope of deeper caves in that area. If the development of the cave is directly related to the falls in the water- table as seen in Stellerweg then the water table is very flat and further depth should be possible, the sump therefore being a perched one. Reference to the other major discoveries in the area and the levels at which they terminate (see surveys) suggests, tantalisingly, that it is only a question of finding a way through an apparent end, no matter how obscure (as demonstrated on two occasions in Sonnenstrahlhohle). Other routes in Eislufthohle have never been pushed to a conclusion, but will anyone ever go back? Any comment on the state of Stellerweg may seem obvious, however it would seem likely that a further 2OO metres should be added to its depth (down to the neighbouring lake level of 712 metres). The extent of the phreatic development threatens to be vast, the hillside quite honeycombed with cave passage (as predicted in Cvijic's erosion cycle). If the water table is flat, there should be passages heading away into the mountain, carrying the waters from the plateau. Finally, the intriguing question of cave draughts often raised its head in discussion in Austria. Almost all the caves that we have explored in the area have had powerful draughts emanating from the entrance; Sonnenstrahlhohle, however, had a distinct inward draught at the entrance, reverting to outward at around the 16OO metre level. In winter, the cave apparently sends clouds of snow billowing up from the entrance as the relatively warm cave air rises (as substantiated by our local contact on a ski trip). It would be expected that the other entrances draught inwards in winter as the air is drawn up through the cave system. The obvious conclusion is that Sonnenstrahlhohle is the top entrance to the whole system. If this is the case and Sonnenstrahlhohle can be connected to the Stellerweg system, there is the possibility of achieving a 1OOO metre cave - unless fears of the cave joining Nagelsteghohle prove justified. .ensure 5 .BLANK REFERENCES Studies in Physical Geography, ed. K.J. Gregory, Dawson Publishing Periglacial Processes and Environments, A.L. Washburn Arnold The Geology of Western Europe, M.G. Rutten, Elsevier Jurassic Environments, A. Hallam, Cambridge Earth Science Series Geomorphology and Climate, ed. E. Derbyshire, John Wiley and Sons Weathering, Geomorphology, Text 2, C.D. Ollier Structural Geomorphology, J. Tricart Geomorphology, B.W. Sparks, Longman For detailed surveys see Cambridge Underground from 1978 onwards, which will give more details of the caves mentioned above as well as other smaller discoveries. .blank 2 $e Tony Malcolm [end TOTES] [begin ----- VERCORS -----] .newpage $c EXPEDITION TO VERCORS 1981 It was all very well in theory, a three-week limestone holiday to the French Vercors in August as key members of Hull University's expedition to the Scialet de Combe de Fer. Simon Farrow and I nodded approvingly as Iain Crossley put us forward to HUSS in the New Inn as experienced veterans of innumerable expeditions. And so we were able to spot a good meal at a mile and a nasty cave from ten. In return HUSS assured us that Combe de Fer wasn't, despite being deep and bristling with pitches. It had been surveyed, scrappily, and HUSS planned to resurvey it all, push all the extremities and hack away at the 200m drop to the resurgence at Goule Blanche. Four day underground camps, prepacked man/cave/day food units, the lot. "No problem", declared Iain, examining his third beer from under his sunhat, as we sat outside the cafe on our way up to the campsite for the first time. "We'll just mosey down this pot, whip through the surveying, poke about a bit, then back to the food and drink. No idea about Continental caving, these people". Then we hit the campsite. First disaster - after an hour's search, Iain and I could find no hot showers. Or cold showers. Or water supply. Or any facilities at all. Good God, here's a caver washing mud out of his hair in a bucket! Simon alone was unpeturbed. For three weeks he stoically caved in his pyjamas; or slept in his playing-out clothes; or strolled around town in his caving grots. Just a matter of semantics, clothes sense. Second disaster - behind the caver with his head in the bucket lurked the Food and Operations Tent. Ah, la vie gastronomique! Exotic salads, piquant sauces, rampant cheeses, subtle wines...... What the hell's this? Boxes of bran, nuts, seven varieties of lentils, baked beans, more baked beans, tins of divers soya forgeries and even a jar of vegetarian Bovril. In the corner an open bottle of Algerian Chateau Chunder sulked rancidly. The whole club was vegetarian! I began to whimper. The worst disaster was the cave. Late the next day - it was an hour's walk to the Combe de Fer entrance - we found the HUSS vanguard party struggling back up the 300m rubble slope. They croaked a desperate tale of muddy pitches, muddy rebelays, long tight muddy rifts, loose muddy boulders and, further down, a flood-liable and muddy streamway. We were appalled. Day two and two of us decided it would be pushing the boat out too far to have anything more to do with it. Simon did risk three trips but wished he hadn't. On day three the rest of HUSS arrived in the Grunge Bus, four days after setting off. This detuned abomination had once been a bread van, which CUMC its then owners had taken to Afghanistan two engines ago. The detune was a challenge to Iain on the rare occasions he managed to collar the keys: he was frequently admonished by the notorious X for pushing it over 30 mph. (X was clearly The Leader. A self-made man, I concluded: no-one who knew what they were about could have got so many parts in the wrong place. And a natural leader - an NPC caver on holiday bumped into a HUSS member he knew and asked innocently "Is he with you, too?", seeing X for the first time. "No", corrected X, puffing out what could have been his chest, "He's with ME!" Later that evening, after a hearty meal out, Simon quizzed that worthy on Becoming a Leader. Well, Simon swayed about while two bottles of wine conducted the interview. Wine in such a container loses all subtlety and X became so stumped for an answer that he retired to his tent to think of one. For a whole day. After a fortnight of us he could be made to crawl away from the circle of cheery laughter round the night bonfire and lie in the grass, sobbing.) So instead of Combe de Fer we occupied ourselves in the many excellent tourist caves up and down the 500m deep limestone gorge of the Bourne. The Grotte de Gournier, a spectacular 100m swim across a deep blue entrance lake to a climb up a 10m stal dome. Then 1.5km of dry stomping, followed by an OFD type streamway which we had time for only a little of. The Bournillon, reputedly the largest entrance in Europe, normally dry but with a hydroelectric station just for when it floods! Inside, a huge and interminable stomping passage 20m square containing not a single loose object, everything moveable having been shot out of the entrance in flood. An hour or so later Iain and I concluded we weren't Big Passage Men after all and scurried out, apparently just short of the end. Simon had already decided he couldn't hold his breath above an hour and lay outside watching the clouds. Cuves de Sassenage, the Berger resurgence. A fascinating showcave, superbly lit. We found out too late about the leadership system for the extensive interior. The Berger. Well, to the bottom of the first pitch - we strolled over and polished it off one afternoon. Plus various odds and ends: Grotte de Deux Soeurs, Favot, La Glaciere, Grotte des Gaulois. We would have done the Grotte Merveilleuse Superieure too, if my trifling map reading error hadn't brought us to within a few yards but six hundred feet above it. In between, swimming, sunbathing and lots of superb ridgewalking at 6-8000 feet, and of course our Ascent of Mont Blanc. We did plan to climb the last 4000 feet until we stepped out of the telepherique and were boggled by it. Instead we took a telecabin over to the Italian border, which it did in two dizzy half-mile swoops dangling us hundreds of feet above rock and ice. Quite the most frightening experience on offer in Europe (barring Majorcan brothels). Sadly all this ceaseless activity failed to impress HUSS. Night after night we would toil back to the campsite, reeking of wine and meat, to find them huddled in the Veg Tent over a bowl of lentils and a guttering candle (leather sandals in neat rows outside), and try to cheer them up with tales of the big world outside Combe de Fer, but nothing worked: not even the 1040FR restaurant bill we brought back once could raise their spirits. Eventually they stopped talking to us altogether. Culture shock, no doubt. So we never did find out what happened on our expedition. .blank $e Andrew Nichols [end VERCORS] [begin ----- WALES -----] .newpage $c THE WELSH 3000'S .blank Long ago, walking used to be fun - a pleasant relief from caving. However, EXCS can turn a gentle stroll across the fells into a ferocious competition in which all you see is the blur of a fast-changing view, seen through bloodshot eyes as you struggle to keep up with the hunched, crazed figure bounding through the bogs ahead of you. It's then that you start to wonder if you are really enjoying yourself. The traditional Easter meet in North Wales was, as usual, held in sunshine and shorts weather (traditional means we went last year as well). Conditions looked perfect for our planned assault on the Welsh 3000's. So 6 a.m. one April morning saw Tony, Andy and me starting up Foel Fras, the first of the fourteen 3000 foot peaks. Simon had volunteered to act as the support party, plying us with lemonade and sticky cakes at the roadside. Being the most experienced walker, he couldn't imagine why anyone should want to "do" all the peaks in one day. One or two, yes, but not fourteen. No one else is in sight as we silently climb the first long slope. There is just the view across to the coast, the hillside stretching upwards and the morning sun. It is all very simple. Just keep going for the next fourteen hours - admire the view, stop to eat, and another challenge conquered. We are soon on the summit and you can see the walk ahead. The rounded Carnedds in the foreground - they should be easy. Then the rocky outline of Tryfan and the Glyders. Snowdon looks a long way off. Surely we can't walk all that distance, but we know we will. The sun disappears in cloud and we are soon walking by compass. Now there's only grey mist swirling around the bogs. The summits come and go and look just like any other lonely, foggy fell in the Dales. But just as we start to worry about the cloud slowing us down, it all clears. Below is Llyn Ogwen and a rapid descent sees us joining the Easter crowds in the valley. We feel very righteous as we pass the ice cream van and mingle with the hordes trekking up Tryfan - they have only just started but we have done a good day's walking already. We insist on overtaking everyone. A brief halt on top, sharing a boulder with one of the school parties and on up Glyder Fach. Halfway now, and it feels like it. We plod over the Glyders, following in the stream of walkers. The final grind up Elidir Fawr nearly finishes us. We sit and look and think. It's not far now - just another ten miles and 3000 feet of ascent. Wouldn't it be better to lie here admiring the view and then amble down the valley in time for tea. Yes, says Tony. But Andy and I have no will power. We run off down into Llanberis Pass, stride up the road and along the path to Crib Goch. Then on to Snowdon and it's all over. We have done the Welsh 3000's but we still don't know why. I wonder what flower collecting is like ? .blank $e John Bowers [end WALES]