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-<head>
-<title>CUCC Expo Handbook: rigging - artificial belays - bolts</title>
-</head>
-<body>
-<center><h2>Bolt belays - placing and using</h2></center>
-
-Most people on Austria expeditions will be familiar with the use of bolt
-belays from trips in the UK. In Austria, caves already explored will have
-bolts with the hangers removed, which can be quite hard to spot. Anyone
-hoping for a join-the-dots trip will be disappointed. These bolts can usually
-be found fairly easily by anyone familiar with expo rigging, <i>provided a
-good rigging guide was drawn up by the previous explorers</i>. Y-hangs are
-common at pitch heads, so check that you find both bolts. Lower down, it is
-as well to know whether a bolt has been placed for a rebelay or a deviation,
-as it may not become obvious which until some way down the pitch. Such a
-rigging guide is also useful to show which existing bolts should <b>not</b>
-be used. Inevitably some bolts will be badly placed, or may become damaged.
-It is as important not to use these as it is to find the right ones.
-
-<p>For new pitches when, as is often the case, good natural belays are
-scarce, you must place one or more bolts yourself. Doing so puts you in
-a position of responsibility both for the safety of future users of that
-bolt and for the conservation of the cave. The aim should always be to
-put in good bolts which will contribute to a safe rig with a minimum of
-further bolting needed.
-
-<p>This is easier said than done, and there is ample evidence of this in
-caves CUCC have explored over the years. The best place for a bolt may
-be far from obvious until the pitch has been descended. Or maybe the best
-place is obvious, but that place is hard to reach. It is tempting to try
-to reach for the best placement, but overstretching or an insecure perch
-may lead to a poor bolt in the perfect place. This is very much to be
-avoided, since it is now impossible to put a good bolt in the perfect
-place - the rock around the first placement will have been stressed and
-another bolt should not be placed closer than about 20 cm from it.
-
-<h3>Placing bolts</h3>
-
-Placing a bolt is a simple matter of drilling a hole and inserting a rock
-anchor. The bottom end of the rock anchor is expanded by some mechanism,
-and thus grips tightly in the hole, resisting any attempt to pull it
-out. The anchor is strongest if loaded at right angles to its axis, ie.
-parallel with the rock surface. Hence for a vertical pitch, it is normally
-best to place the anchor in a vertical rock surface.
-
-<p>The hole may be made in either of two ways. For the penalty of carrying
-considerable extra weight, a cordless power drill is the quickest way to
-drill the hole. The heaviest item is the drill battery, which must, of
-course, be removed from the cave each time it needs charging. This method is
-of the most use where a lot of bolts need to be placed on a pitch series
-relatively accessible from an entrance. Lots of bolts are also needed for
-climbs up or exposed traverses to reach inaccessible passages.
-
-<p><center><a href="../smkridge/161/l/boltin.htm"><img alt="(36k image)"
-src="../smkridge/161/t/boltin.jpg" width=113 height=152></a>&nbsp;
-&nbsp;<a href="l/bosch.htm"><img alt="(73k image)"
-src="t/bosch.jpg" width=200 height=200></a><br>
-<b>Bolting by Hand&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;Using the Drill</b></center>
-
-<p>The older (and more reliable, but slower) method is to use the anchor
-itself as the drill bit, driven in by use of a hammer. 8mm self-drilling
-rock anchors have teeth around their bottom for this purpose. The anchor is
-attached to a bolt driver, which is then repeatedly pounded with a hammer,
-whilst rotating the anchor by hand every couple of whacks. When this gets
-a little stiff, the anchor is pulled out of its hole and the dust and rock
-chips blown out. The process is repeated until the top of the anchor is
-just below the rock surface. A small conical "wedge" is then inserted into
-end of the anchor (thin end into the anchor) and the pair put back in the
-hole. Three or four good hard whacks with the hammer "set" the anchor by
-driving the wedge into the bottom end, expanding it. Beware of hitting it too
-many times, as this will start to weaken the rock around the anchor.
-
-<p>The hole produced by the power drill is a different shape from that
-produced by hand - since the power drill bit has a pointed end. For this
-reason, if a self-drilling anchor is set into a powerdrill hole, the wedge
-will not be driven into the anchor and an unsafe placement will result.
-Either use a form of anchor specially intended for the power drilled holes,
-or finish the hole off with a self-drilling anchor to ensure the bottom end
-is square.
-
-<hr>
-
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