18/07/11 +Chris Rescues a sheep
++Chris Smith
+
+
+
+On our first carry up we +heard distressed sounding bleating from a sheep that had fallen down +a grike next to the path on the col. Heroically, Chris clambered +down into the grike to effect a dramatic rescue. Noone quite knows +what happened down there, but some time later Chris, looking a little +sheepish, emerged clutching a grateful-looking and apparently +unharmed sheep. TU=2 mins
+
+
+
19/07/11 +204 rigging
++Djuke Veldhuis, +Kathryn Hopkins
+
+
+
+Our intrepid explorers +carry another load up the hill – and get the easy ride really, +because as Jess, Nial and Edvin went back down to get load 2 (after a +quick noodle, mash and chilli sauce stop) we went into 204e to rig +the entrance pitch and gaffered. It was surprisingly warm and there +was no snow plug at all. All went well erm... well Djuke rigged the +entrance pitch, sort of, and ended up 4m above the bottom at the +stopper knot. Caught high and dry, I wandered onto the ledge, +hunkered down and waited for Kathryn to re-rig the rebelay on one +bolt rather than 2. That worked and with stretch the rope now +reaches the floor :) (or hangs at waist height, unloaded). Kathryn +then rigged to the y-hang of gaffered. We came out to find Nial, +Edvin and Jess returning to the bivi with their second load. We +played/fought with the tarps for a while, sorted rope, got bored and +walked down. YAY CAVING = GREAT. TU = 3.5 hrs +
+
+
+
+21/07/11 Rigging down +204e
++Nial Peters, Edvin +Deadman
+
+
+
+Up at 5.45am after a +drippy night in the bivy. Underground at 7.10 am – some kind of +CUCC record perhaps?! With 2 bags of rope each, we made slow +progress to Gaffered, which Nial finished rigging. The 200m of 11mm +saw us all the way to the bottom of Cerberus in the Underworld, with +10-15m spare which we used on sirens traverse. Couple of rigging +points:
++ The 1st + traverse bolt below eyehole pitch and above trihang is shagged – + might need an extra one.
++ The deviation on + Cerberus is better as a rebelay.
++Then continued through +the Underworld to Gardener's world and Universally challenged – +heres a rough rigging guide:
++ +
++[rigging guide]
+
+
+
+Finally down chalk and +cheese and our campsite. Mission accomplished. Prussiking out was +tiring with tacklesacks full of tacklesacks in tow! TU = 11 hrs
+
+
+
21/07/11 +Campsite kit carting trip
++Djuke Veldhuis, + Kathryn Hopkins,Jess Stirrups
+
+
+
+We stirred in our damp +sleeping bags as Nial and Edvin got up and set off for their rigging +trip (see previous trip report). By this time (7ish) Kathryn was +awake and shortly we all got up (slowly). Wetness was reduced as we +hussled packing loads of camp kit. With 2 tacklesacks each we +entered Steinbrucken at 10.15am. The entrance crawl with tackle was +most awkward. As we descended gaffered, the pitch series Cerberus +and so forth we were reminded how far it would be to prussik out and +how AWESOME it would be to camp and not have to do gaffered everyday. + On the plus side also we stayed completely warm through the whole +trip and as long as I didn't sit on my right buttock or knee (which +were a bit worse for wear after a spectacular fall on the plateau). +Before long we could hear Nial at the bottom of tri-hang. Upon +hearing us the boys – not wanting us to catch up – put in a +difficult deviation on purpose and we subsequently didn't catch up +with them until the campsite. Going down chalk and cheese was like +driving up your driveway – you knew you were going home sweet home, +or as it is now known, BUTLINS HOLIDAY CAMP :) :) :)
+
+
+
+
+
22/07/2011 +- Tunnockschact Entrance Series
+Chris +Smith, Robert Adams, Jon Hauser, Andy Chapman, Noel Snape
+
+
+ Rob and I headed off to +Tunnockschact ahead of the main party to continue with the previous +day's rigging (entrance pitch pre-rigged to the first deviation). I +continued with the rigging, whilst rob sheltered on the surface. +
++ Beneath the first +deviation it was necessary to rig a Fig-8 rather than a Y-hang due to +the thread on the right hand spit being damaged (needs re-bolting). +Two further rebelay's to the first scree slope were rigged without +incident. No snow was present on the scree slope +making it extremely +unstable. + I undertook +a spot of gardening, but my efforts were ineffectual as kicking down +the loose choss seemed to further destabilise the remaining scree. +At this point Rob descended the first main pitch and waited at the +top of the scree slope
++ A +“traverse line” was rigged from the bottom of the first pitch to +the small pitch above the second scree slope. The entire traverse +needs re-bolting as the anchor points are at ankle height, meaning +that any falls taken on the rope will result in considerable shock +loading. Rigging round the traverse and short pitch gave access to +the second scree slope, where again no snow was present (in stark +contrast with the previous year). Again, this slope +is extremely unstable. + Had difficulty finding bolts for the traverse to the second Y-hang, +however I suspect this because there are no bolts besides the one +back-up point to the Y-hang. Needs re-bolting to make safe in low/no +snow conditions.
++ Rigging the second +Y-hang was a complete arse as the two bolts in the far wall were +nearly unreachable. Rigging this section took much faffing, by which +point Andy had joined me at the top of the pitch. Descending the +pitch to the next floor and set of rebelay's took place without +incident, although I did miss out the bolt for the deviation (oops!). + By now Rob, Jon, and Noel were waiting around the top of the first +scree slope and traverse line.
++ Descending the rebelay's +below the second Y-hang and (missed) deviation gave access to the top +of the old snow slope; however instead of being greeted by several +tonnes of snow there was a gaping crevasse where top of the old snow +slope used to be. Evidentially the cave has warmed up considerably +since last year. Descending the snow slope beyond this point was +impossible. Andy came down for a second opinion and concluded much +the same as myself. At the point I turned around and started to +ascend, so that Noel could come down for a third opinion. Rob, Jon +and I headed out whilst Noel and Andy made one last inspection of the +snow slope before heading out in tat order.
+
+
+
+Summary
++ Scree slopes extremely + unstable due to major snow melt
++ Entrance Y-hang needs + re-bolting for right hand spit
++ First traverse needs + re-bolting to raise the height of the traverse line
++ Traverse to second + Y-hang needs additional spits, to improve safety under loose scree + conditions
++ Bottom pitch above snow + slope needs completely re-bolting to enable safe crossing of the + crevasse in low snow conditions
+
+
+
+Sunday 24 July to Tuesday 26 July 29
+
+
Djuke +Veldhuis, Jess Stirrups, Nial Peters -- 204
+
+
In +preparation for the day-shift of the Butlins camping team (the +night-shift consisting of Edvin, Kathryn and Holly), we +walked up (again, in the rain) on Saturday night. By Sunday morning +rain had turned to snow :-s hence giving us all the more reason to +get underground pronto.
+Despite +having already carted down all the camping gear in a previous trip +(see Djuke, Jess, Kathryn trip on 21 July), we still +had two tackle bags full of food, rope and other fun heavy stuff +each. Going down Gaffa’d and the rest of the pitch series, +Gardener’s World, Chalk & Cheese reminded me of just how much +prussiking up there would be in a few days time and how pleased I was +not to be doing it on a daily basis. We lugged the gear into Dead +Good Bat Chamber and while Jess and Nial proceeded +to calibrate survey gear and set up camp, I went along to our +prospective hole, now known as “That Stupid Hole” +(courtesy of Kathryn who originally referred to it as “That silly +hole”).
+
+
A few +slings on naturals got us down the first 15 meters or so of a steeply +sloping pitch onto a big axe like boulder. A short climb below all +the boulders choke. On the left however, a thin, steep, muddy climb +up opens up into an eyehole which overlooks another steeply sloping +shaft (an aven onto the left and continuing down to the right). As +Nial and Jess surveyed down I started bolting the pitch +head and remembered how enjoyable this was–keeping you warm and +filling your nose with lime. As we continued a further 20 meters +down, landing on a small ledge, a dark cavernous rift continued below +and we realised we had found yet another pitch series. Having only +hand-bolting kits we didn’t get much further before we were due to +turn in for the night (it was approx. 7 pm)
+
+
Our first +night at Butlins Holiday Camp (aka “Dead Good Bat +Chamber”) was warm, surprisingly so, it was also much drier +than top camp (there was no snow, no rain – also no sunshine, but +hey that’s life). I rolled around for a bit in a thermals, a +(clean) furry, a fleece liner and Tony’s buffalo bag, but drifted +in and out of sleep fairly well. We were rudely awoken at 5 am by the +nightshift who made themselves dinner and us breakfast and a hot +drink. They looked very ready for bed (note: for those doing +underground camping, the nightshift probably has a rougher deal, +though the first night they said they fell asleep very quickly, their +body clocks are obviously rather messed up).
+
+
I winged +too much getting into wet wetsocks, but actually, getting into caving +gear was fine. A warm drink and some mediocre porridge later we were +talking to the nightshift about where they had gotten with our pitch +series. Having had a drill, they had dropped it another series of +pitches, but had to eventually turn around being too cold surveying +(they re-rigged Chalk & Cheese Pitch to get warm). As they +crawled into the tent, warm sleeping bags awaiting them and taunting +us, Kathryn we ‘kill’ that silly hole and so we set-off once +again. They had been right. It did get increasingly wet and a few +more handbolts down we decided that the rest of the pitch should be +named Goretex is a lie – because it is— Eventually the +stream disappeared into a thin rift (QM-d at best, probably nothing) +while a mud choked hole on the left told us it was time to go back up +having indeed ‘killed’ this lead. I offered to de-rig. It seemed +like a good idea, until I realised the other group had taken one of +the tackle sacks, which left one tackle-sack to put 200 meters of 9mm +in to prussic out with. Splendid. I was knackered towards the end and +Jess really appreciated it when I gave the bag to her for the +top section J I can’t remember where we went then. I think it was +the Wares. We only had time to rig into it a little bit before +magically it was once again bed time.
+
+
After +arriving late (around 8pm) and hence giving the others a lie in, +making us dinner and them breakfast, we snuggled back into the +sleeping bags. Nial and I apparently curled up next to +Jess who was left immobile until kicking Nial in the head (at +which point he moved). I think she was dreaming it all up really… +Our last cycle started, wet wetsocks, damp caving gear and a distinct +itchy feeling, especially on my chin which felt like I’d just been +kissing a guy with stubble for the last 3 days (in reality it was a +helmet strap rubbing against my chin with added lime dust/dirt/mud +and moist air). Anyway, as you can probably tell, I was dreaming of a +warm shower at this point and something to untangle the rat’s nest +that was my hair. +
+
+
As the +nightshift had killed off the Wares QMc’s bar two vertical +leads, Nial decided to introduce Jess and I to the wonderful +world that is the Convenience Series. He seems to love +it; I think it’s a bit gnarly and squeezy, I preferred the Wares. +But I digress…In Nial’s defence, he didn’t make us follow him +down the wet / tedious pit to check out the even wetter QMc in a 6 +inch deep puddle (--- fill in name I’ve +forgotten of this area---). While it sounded like Nial was +swimming/drowning in a Yorkshire stream way, Jess and I sat at the +top trying not to freeze discussing what we’d do with Nial should +we drown. It was innocent Black Adderesque humour really. Needless to +say, that lead crapped out too L Thus, on we went to Channel Five +where Nial and I (re-)bolted an incredibly dodgy, loose +pitch; one of those where you can’t tread without sending rocks +hurtling down. Depressingly, we didn’t even get time to survey as +it was about time to head out if we wanted to walk down the hill that +same night. +
+
+
Maybe it +was because I’d been underground for several days, maybe it was the +200 m of 9mm I dragged up the previous day, or maybe it was because I +managed to get the donkey’s dick of the drill bag caught in my foot +jammer on the very first pitch back up to the surface (Chalk & +Cheese) –hence, left swinging around trying to tug it loose, +like one of those annoying zips on a cheap sleeping bag—but in any +case I have never been that slow prussiking out. Nial kindly offered +/ pleaded to take the drill bag, but NO way was I going to give in, +never. Selfish? Foolish? Stubborn? All of the above, yes probably, +but my fight with the drill bag had become a personal battle of +strength and will. I won. But didn’t get out until 8 pm or so. But +at least it was SUNNY J J J on the surface. We had a relaxing dinner +on the rocks. Went to bed. Heard the nightshift coming back around 3 +or 4 am and walked back down the next day. All round, a superb first +camping trip. (Climbing Trisselwand with Jess the next day didn’t +happen – we drank instead. It didn’t happen the next day either, +it rained, but more on that later).
++Note to self: you write way too much when you +type…
+
+
+
+
+
Thursday +28 July 2011
+
+
Djuke +Veldhuis -- VIA FERRATA – Grober Donnerogel, 2054 m, +Grade D (Intersport Klettersteig, Tour 28, p 120 Klettersteig book).
+
+
It was +raining at 4.45am, which meant that Trisselwand was going to be wet +and Jess and I wouldn’t be going up. Rubbish. Having already sat +still on Wednesday, I decided I wanted to go and do something active. +Weather was very overcast and looked like rain, but hey, what’s a +girl to do?!
+
+
I settled +on a Klettersteig on a side of the Dachstein Expo doesn’t often +visit and I can thoroughly recommend it. Coming in at the same grade +as the Loser Via Ferrata (not yet in guide book as it’s too new – +but I’ve checked the Loser grade in the new version in the +bookshop), it is about a 40 minute drive (towards Bad Goisern and +then Gosau) if you don’t get stuck behind a string of caravans. It +has the advantage that apart from the via ferrata, all the height +gain is via a cable car (Gosaukammbahn) where a return costs +€12 – the last car goes down at 17.20 in the summer. It also has +a lot of bang for your buck. The initial walk up from the cable car +(listed as ½ hr in the book), took more like 10 minutes. The via +ferrata itself takes about 3 hours and the walk down one to two hours +depending on how much you value your knees.
+
+
The Route +finding is simple; follow the path numbered 611, up a little hillock. +Just before a turny gate thingy the via ferrata (signed) goes off to +the left. The route is superb and actually quite suitable for +beginners as it is interspersed by sections which are effectively +just walking (though the cable is present throughout for protection) +which is at times less steep than the muddy / slippery path of doom +on the way upto Top Camp. Note however, that this is a fairly +prolonged via ferrata which would take longer in the wet. It was +incredibly cloudy / overcast when I did it, but I was still in shorts +and a T-shirt for most of the way. Bring plenty of water if it’s +sunny. As with all via ferrata’s, avoid if risk of thunder (or be +walking down by then).
+Anyway, +there was I, starting out just above the cable station at the +designated Hutte from which the path to the klettersteig goes and a +random Polish bloke comes up to me and says, “You must be an +experienced mountaineer, you walk fast”. Well, no actually, it +looks like it’ll be pissing it down any minute and the cloud is +coming in and I’m sorta hoping there’s not going to be a +thunderstorm. His backpack and helmet shiny, with an axe to boot, I +eyed the Polish man somewhat warily. People on the hills with shiny +gear are either very good and well off that they can get new stuff, +or they’ve just started doing it. On the other hand I was also by +myself (not something I generally do) and he seemed to have done some +routes in the Dolomites. Anyway, a climb up to the start of the Via +Ferrata with my newfound friend put my harness on --- shit --- helmet +left down by the Hutte. Run back down and up again and my Polish +friend awaits me patiently.
+
+
Despite +the clag, I immediately loved the route. Divided into 4 main stages +(Etappes) “Enzianwandl”, “Ziehkogelgrat”, “Kleiner Donner +Kogel” and “Grober Donner Kogel” varying in grades from B to D. +There are plenty of wider, path-like sections en-route to sit and +have lunch and admire the superb view (which I got only +occasionally). As we moved up and my well-geared up friend fed me +energy drinks and chocolate (I think my one piece of flapjack and +slice of bread with Nutella didn’t look like ‘proper’ mountain +food). There is a nice balance of exposure with sections which are +more scrambly and places where you can have a choc bar and take in +the view. +
+
+
Route +finding is easy BUT – about ¾ of the way along a big green +arrow points left (it says “Links”) FOLLOW it – don’t be +tempted by the shoddy wire that appears to go straight up on your +right – the latter is an old section of Via Ferrata that has been +dismantled after the locals apparently complained about it ruining +their view from the valley. The main route contours round over some +awkward tree roots—which have become exposed and now hang above the +limestone where the soil has become completely eroded—and +ultimately comes to a col. Moving left the final and steepest stage +of the via ferrata, the “Grober Donnerkogel”, now awaits. It +looks very imposing, but is in no way technically challenging.
+
To my
+sheer amazement, as I climbed the last steep section high on the Chai
+tea that my Polish friend insisted I drink. By this point I’d
+decided this chap was fully competent, if over-geared for the trip in
+question and while he chattered away happily in broken English about
+how his brother should have been on his expedition with him, but he’d
+not communicated this with his wife etc etc, I noted to my surprise
+that the sky was clearing. As I reached the top, two old codgers who
+had laughed at me on the way down when I’d gone back for my helmet,
+were sitting at the massive cross. They waved and my Polish friend
+took out the biggest camera lens I’d ever seen and started snapping
+as we were “blessed by God” as all three of the put it at
+different times, to have sun at the top. I don’t believe in God,
+but the sun was fantastic and the atmosphere up there with the four
+of us great.
+
+
At some +point I started talking about Gosser, which led the two old codgers +(each just off the phone to their respective wives – mentioning +something about a Dutch lady they’d met) to ask whether I drank +schnapps. “Yes,” I replied, “but I try not to drink too much +before a long climb”. Would I like some they asked I wasn’t going +to say ‘no’ J And thus it was that I found myself on the top of +the Grober Donnerkogel drinking schnapps and chai tea in the +sunshine. By now it was about 15.15 hr or so. We’d taken it pretty +easy and the guidebook time are about right, though you could do the +route notable faster if you’re rushing.
+
+
+An hour’s walk down or so found my Polish friend and I +at the Hutte drinking a coffee (which he kindly bought for me for my +services as a guide, lol) and at 16.15 we picked the cable car back +down. A great day, despite the clag and a trip I would recommend to +those interested in ferrata.
+
+
+
+Tue 26/07/2011 - Tunnockschact Entrance Series up to +the Balcony +
++Neil Pacey, Aiora Zabala and Fernando Abarquero +(8hr) +
++Neil showed Fer and Aio the secrets of Tunnocks +labyrinth. The newcomers were even able to find the way out. Short +trip up to the Balcony. We took away many of the dangerous rocks we +saw on the entrance, so it looks safer now. +
+
+
+
+Wed 27/07/2011 - Tunnockschact Entrance Series up to +the Balcony +
++Aiora Zabala and Fernando Abarquero (6hr) +
++Aio and Fer reviewed the secrets of Tunnocks, going down +to the top of String Theory and back. We brought 60m rope to help +others to keep going down +
+
+
+
+Fri 29/07/2011 - 204 Sandpit +
++Kathryn Hopkins, Aiora Zabala and Fernando +Abarquero +
++Kathryn showed us the secrets of taking survey notes. +Short trip to Sandpit practising some tight surveying. Found Jess and +Alex on the way out and after some problems with the carbide we came +out +
+
+
+
+Sat 30/07/2011 -Tunnockschact up to Crossword passage + +
++Holly, Aiora and Fer +
++A nice caving trip finding our way to this Crossword. We +practised hand bolting for a hand line before throwing the pitch. +Holly tested how warm a storm shelter is with a candle inside. +
+
+
+
+Sun 31/07/2011 -Tunnockschact up to Crossword passage + +
++Neil Pacey, Aiora Zabala, Fernando Abarquero and +Rob Adams +
++Trip to finish bolting the pitch. It turns out that once +we descended the little pitch, Rob appeared from within a small and +tight passage he had gone through to get warm. Thus 08-38C and +Crossword are connected. +
+
+
+
+Mon 01/08/2011 -204 Pingu pitch - bottom left +
++Becka Lawson, Aiora Zabala and Fernando +Abarquero. +
++Hand bolting and abseiling the left pitch, finding very +nice shell fossils and ammonites, but with an unfortunate end covered +by mud and sand. +
+
+
+
+Tue 02/08/2011 -204 Pingu pitch - bottom right +
++Olaf Kaehler, Aiora Zabala and Fernando +Abarquero. +
++Hand bolting and abseiling the pitch on the right hand +side (small). We abseiled a little bit down the parallel little hole +below the horn, which could be continued. But it was drippy and cold, +and there was too much friction on the rope, so we didn't continue +that way. We were amazed at the potential deepness of the main pitch +but decided that we didn't have enough experience (neither a drill to +keep bolting) to throw that pitch down. Turned back. +
+
+
+
+Wed 03/08/2011 -204 Pingu pitch - bottom right +
++Olaf Kaehler, Gareth, Aiora Zabala and Fernando +Abarquero. +
++Back in Pingu Pitch with the drill and lots of rope +ready to do the bolting and abseiling of the central pitch. Gareth +bolted an impressive free hanging belay. Unfortunately it ended in a +little sump and going nowhere else. We did all the surveying and the +de rigging until Pingu's rope decided that it wanted to stay there +for a little bit longer :( +
+
+
+
+
+
+ +
+ + \ No newline at end of file