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[svn r5797] All this bloody mess now validates as XHTML 1.0 Strict. What's more, some of the obviously out of date bits have been updated, or at least notes written to warn people that the information is out of date. I couldn't be arsed to do the surveying guide as well. I've just spent about eight hours doing this, I need food!

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handbook/rig/boltin.htm
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@@ -1,11 +1,13 @@
<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0//EN">
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<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd">
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<head>
<title>CUCC Expo Handbook: rigging - artificial belays - bolts</title>
<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1" />
<title>CUCC Expo Rigging Handbook: Artificial belays - bolts</title>
<link rel="stylesheet" type="text/css" href="../../css/main2.css" />
</head>
<body>
<center><h2>Bolt belays - placing and using</h2></center>
<h2 style="text-align: center"> CUCC Expo Rigging Handbook</h2>
<h1>Bolt belays - placing and using</h1>
<p>Most people on Austria expeditions will be familiar with the use of bolt
belays from trips in the UK. In Austria, caves already explored will have
@@ -18,14 +20,14 @@ as well to know whether a bolt has been placed for a rebelay or a deviation,
as it may not become obvious which until some way down the pitch. Such a
rigging guide is also useful to show which existing bolts should <b>not</b>
be used. Inevitably some bolts will be badly placed, or may become damaged.
It is as important not to use these as it is to find the right ones.
It is as important not to use these as it is to find the right ones.</p>
<p>For new pitches when, as is often the case, good natural belays are
scarce, you must place one or more bolts yourself. Doing so puts you in
a position of responsibility both for the safety of future users of that
bolt and for the conservation of the cave. The aim should always be to
put in good bolts which will contribute to a safe rig with a minimum of
further bolting needed.
further bolting needed.</p>
<p>This is easier said than done, and there is ample evidence of this in
caves CUCC have explored over the years. The best place for a bolt may
@@ -35,7 +37,16 @@ to reach for the best placement, but overstretching or an insecure perch
may lead to a poor bolt in the perfect place. This is very much to be
avoided, since it is now impossible to put a good bolt in the perfect
place - the rock around the first placement will have been stressed and
another bolt should not be placed closer than about 20 cm from it.
another bolt should not be placed closer than about 20 cm from it.</p>
<div style="float: left; padding: 10pt"> <a href="../l/bosch.htm"><img
alt="(73k image)" src="../t/bosch.jpg" width="200" height="200" /></a><p
class="caption">Using the Drill</p></div>
<div style="clear: left; float: left; padding: 10pt"> <a
href="../../smkridge/161/l/boltin.htm"> <img alt="(36k image)"
src="../../smkridge/161/t/boltin.jpg" width="113" height="152" /></a> <p
class="caption">Bolting by Hand</p> </div>
<h3>Placing bolts</h3>
@@ -44,7 +55,7 @@ anchor. The bottom end of the rock anchor is expanded by some mechanism,
and thus grips tightly in the hole, resisting any attempt to pull it
out. The anchor is strongest if loaded at right angles to its axis, ie.
parallel with the rock surface. Hence for a vertical pitch, it is normally
best to place the anchor in a vertical rock surface.
best to place the anchor in a vertical rock surface.</p>
<p>The hole may be made in either of two ways. For the penalty of carrying
considerable extra weight, a cordless power drill is the quickest way to
@@ -52,13 +63,7 @@ drill the hole. The heaviest item is the drill battery, which must, of
course, be removed from the cave each time it needs charging. This method is
of the most use where a lot of bolts need to be placed on a pitch series
relatively accessible from an entrance. Lots of bolts are also needed for
climbs up or exposed traverses to reach inaccessible passages.
<p><center><a href="../../smkridge/161/l/boltin.htm"><img alt="(36k image)"
src="../../smkridge/161/t/boltin.jpg" width=113 height=152></a>&nbsp;
&nbsp;<a href="../l/bosch.htm"><img alt="(73k image)"
src="../t/bosch.jpg" width=200 height=200></a><br>
<b>Bolting by Hand&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;Using the Drill</b></center>
climbs up or exposed traverses to reach inaccessible passages.</p>
<p>The older (and more reliable, but slower) method is to use the anchor
itself as the drill bit, driven in by use of a hammer. 8mm self-drilling
@@ -71,56 +76,54 @@ just below the rock surface. A small conical "wedge" is then inserted into
end of the anchor (thin end into the anchor) and the pair put back in the
hole. Three or four good hard whacks with the hammer "set" the anchor by
driving the wedge into the bottom end, expanding it. Beware of hitting it too
many times, as this will start to weaken the rock around the anchor.
many times, as this will start to weaken the rock around the anchor.</p>
<p>The hole produced by the power drill is a different shape from that
produced by hand - since the power drill bit has a pointed end. It is also quite difficult to get the depth of the hole exactly right. For this
reason, if a self-drilling anchor is set into a powerdrill hole, the wedge
will not be driven into the anchor and an unsafe placement will result.
To use a self-drilling anchor, it is best to under-drill the hole, and
finish off to just the right depth, and a square hole-bottom with a hand
driver.
<p>The hole produced by the power drill is a different shape from that produced
by hand - since the power drill bit has a pointed end. It is also quite
difficult to get the depth of the hole exactly right. For this reason, if a
self-drilling anchor is set into a powerdrill hole, the wedge will not be
driven into the anchor and an unsafe placement will result. To use a
self-drilling anchor, it is best to under-drill the hole, and finish off to
just the right depth, and a square hole-bottom with a hand driver.</p>
<p>More efficiently for power-drilled holes, use a form of anchor specially
intended for these holes. These anchors use a smaller hole, so you get more
holes for your money from one battery charge, and the design of anchor means
that the bottom of the hole is not used in the setting process, and the depth
of the hole is therefore less critical (as long as it is deep enough that the
anchor goes right in !)
anchor goes right in!)</p>
<p><center><a href="../../years/1990/hilti1-300.png"><img
alt="before setting - 1k png" width=530 height=90 hspace=10 vspace=10
src="../../years/1990/hilti1-100.png"></a><br>
<b>Hilti HDK spits before and after setting.</b><br>
<div style="text-align: center">
<a href="../../years/1990/hilti1-300.png"><img
alt="before setting - 1k png" width="530" height="90" style="margin: 10pt"
src="../../years/1990/hilti1-100.png" /></a><br />
<b>Hilti HDK spits before and after setting.</b><br />
<a href="../../years/1990/hilti2-300.png"><img alt="after setting - 1k png"
width=220 height=94 hspace=10 vspace=10
src="../../years/1990/hilti2-100.png"></a></center>
width="220" height="94"
src="../../years/1990/hilti2-100.png" style="margin: 10pt" /></a></div>
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<li>Bolt belays &ndash; placing &amp; using</li>
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