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1977: Nick Thorne's Belfry Bulletin report
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</title>
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<body>
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<center><font size=-1>Bristol Exploration Club Belfry Bulletin 354 pp 96-98</font>
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<h2>TOTES GEBIRGE<br>1977</h2>
|
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|
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<p>by Nick Thorne</center>
|
||||
|
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<p>It is many years since Britain could offer open potholes for pioneers to
|
||||
explore, and now even Europe is fast running out of areas of genuinely virgin
|
||||
limestone. One area where almost no work has been done however is the Totes
|
||||
Gebirge in Austria. Cambridge University Caving Club had a short expedition
|
||||
to that area in 1976 and I went with them when they paid their second visit
|
||||
in the summer of 1977. Since, in their past, the B.E.C. have shown an active
|
||||
interest in Austria, I thought that members might like to know how things
|
||||
went.
|
||||
|
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<p>C.U.C.C. set up camp by a lake in Alt Aussee, a sleepy little village some
|
||||
80Km (50 miles) east of Salzburg. The scenery is spectacular in the extreme.
|
||||
On the opposite side of the lake to our camp stood the Trisselwand, a sheer
|
||||
rock wall six times taller than the Avon gorge. Our interest was focussed on
|
||||
the nearby Loser Plateau, a sharply undulating plain nearly 2000m (6,600ft)
|
||||
above sea level. Until recently the plateau was inaccessible to anyone with
|
||||
anything short of a helicopter. However, a few years ago, a road up there was
|
||||
built for the skiers and the plateau is now a brisk three quarters of an
|
||||
hours' walk along dubious tracks from where the road ends. The road itself is
|
||||
no trifling effort but a great autobahn affair zigzagging its way up the
|
||||
hillside. Near the top, it has a heart-stopping hang gliders' take-off ramp.
|
||||
The road is a toll road, and a car plus four people would cost about £5.50
|
||||
per trip. Before we parted with cash, however, a curious aspect of local
|
||||
attitudes was utilised. Cavers in Austria, and I believe in other parts of
|
||||
the continent too, are regarded as real heroes. The words "Hohlen Forscher"
|
||||
were all that we needed to gain us free tolls, reduced camping fees and even
|
||||
free beer!
|
||||
|
||||
<p>Once on the plateau, we began prospecting. The tens of miles of lapiaz
|
||||
have rather daunted Carl, the only local caver. He welcomed our extra
|
||||
manpower, pointed us in the right direction and essentially said "Explore
|
||||
whatever takes your fancy!" I found that after the British caving scene, some
|
||||
adjustment of scale was necessary, both above and below ground. Looking
|
||||
across the plateau the Schonberg looked to be within spitting distance, but
|
||||
in fact it would have been a long days' very tough walking. Crossing the
|
||||
lapiaz was a real headache. Unlike Yorkshire, this stuff is faulted, folded,
|
||||
overfolded and has patches of tough, hardy vegetation growing all over it.
|
||||
The plateau can be a very unfriendly place with its abundance of snakes and
|
||||
its very changeable weather. In two minutes, prospectors can have their
|
||||
surtbthing (Oh! what a giveaway!) interrupted by some very spectacular
|
||||
thunder and lightning and be pummelled by hailstones as big as marbles. The
|
||||
run-off from these thunderstorms is so fast as to be almost comforting. I am
|
||||
sure that if one were caught underground in a floodable passage (of which
|
||||
there are thankfully very few!) and not be drwoned instantly, one could
|
||||
almost hold ones breath until the flood subsided!
|
||||
|
||||
<p>When it comes to the caves themselves, finding the deep ones requires a
|
||||
little thought and a lot of luck. At first we looked at big open shafts, and
|
||||
found many fine and undescended examples. Some were up to 4Om (150ft) deep,
|
||||
but they were invariably choked or plugged with snow. A much better type of
|
||||
entrance to look for is the horizontal type. A short section of horizontal
|
||||
development is all that is needed to protect subsequent shafts from the
|
||||
debris that chokes the open pots. An additional clue for a good site we
|
||||
learned was the presence of a draught. So healthy an indication of good
|
||||
things is a draught that we even hammered out the entrance to one cave - a
|
||||
Yorkshire trick that leaves the continentals absolutely staggered! The
|
||||
subsequent hole led to a fine series of shafts before becoming too tight at
|
||||
about 25Om (820ft) depth. Although deep, this is nothing to what Loser could
|
||||
produce with its maximum depth potential being in the order of 900m (2,950ft)
|
||||
|
||||
<p>As an example of the type of caves that we were finding, I include a
|
||||
survey of one of the caves with which I was personally involved. We are
|
||||
provisionally calling our find the Eisluft Hohle. The official Austrian
|
||||
number designated to a cave initially is only worth superceding by a name
|
||||
when the cave reaches some 150m (490ft) depth. The cave draughts outwards.
|
||||
This we find very puzzling as the cave temperature is considerably lower than
|
||||
that outside. The draught varies with the temperature of the atmosphere -
|
||||
implying a convection draught as opposed to a stream driven one - and there
|
||||
are no higher entrances that draught in. Indeed, no entrances on the plateau
|
||||
seem to take an inblowing draught. We are still thinking this one out and
|
||||
would welcome any suggestions.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>The cave has three entrances that each share the draught. These soon unite
|
||||
above a snow slope. A handline descent of this leads to the top of Plugged
|
||||
Shaft which is over two hundred feet deep and broken by numerous but very
|
||||
small ledges. The icy draught is at its strongest at the top of the shaft and
|
||||
on a good day difficulty was found in keeping carbide lamps alight. Sound
|
||||
natural belays are scarce as all good looking flakes and threads just come
|
||||
off in your hand, so bolting was the order of the day. This was very slow as
|
||||
the limestone is very hard and rock anchors soon blunted. Half an hour's
|
||||
hammering in the cooling breeze and the snow at the top of Plugged Shaft was
|
||||
nothing if not soul-destroying.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>The shaft descends through snow plugs to a very dubious platform of dirty
|
||||
snow. It was while standing on this that we began to wonder about the degree
|
||||
by which the caver's presence alters the cave environment. ("I don't want to
|
||||
worr you chaps - but it's melting!") Further down, the shaft enlarges and a
|
||||
small rock bridge is met. Behind the bridge is some horizontal passage to a
|
||||
shaft. Time was short, we left this undescended and followed the draught down
|
||||
the main shaft. The shaft ends at a chamber and some short horizontal passage
|
||||
that thankfully marks the end of the snow. Saved Shaft was descended to a
|
||||
chamber and a fearful looking boulder choke. The draught filtered enticingly
|
||||
through the ruckle and, prudence lost, we crawled through to a rift beyond.
|
||||
We reached a pitch and descended 32m (105ft) and pushed on to the head of
|
||||
another shaft, when we realised that we had lost the draught. We therefore
|
||||
left this next shaft undescended anc returned and traversed over the pitch
|
||||
head to another up which the faithful old draught was blowing. We then
|
||||
descended 30m (98ft) down this one, past a ledge to a rift passage. This
|
||||
enlarged to a reasonable sized chamber with a choice of routes onwards. We
|
||||
had just about run out of tackle and, with the expedition nearing its end,
|
||||
time was short too. We started the awesome task of de-rigging. (Yes, we were
|
||||
on ladders!)
|
||||
|
||||
<p>We've left the cave with enough promise and question marks that I am sure
|
||||
will draw us back to it next year. If you think that I've been a little rash
|
||||
in telling you of this unfinished find, then I might warn the would-be pirate
|
||||
that the plateau is very, very big and the Eisluft Hohle, like many of
|
||||
Loser's caves, cannot be seen from more than five yards away! And, whilst on
|
||||
his wanderings across the unexplored lapiaz, the pirate might just find
|
||||
something better than the Eisluft Hohle. How about it ? "Noch ein Bier,
|
||||
bitte!"
|
||||
|
||||
<dl>
|
||||
<dt>References:
|
||||
<dd><a href="../1976/report.htm">Cambridge Underground 1977</a>
|
||||
for details of C.U.C.C. finds in 1976
|
||||
<dd><a href="report.htm">Cambridge Underground 1978</a> to be published
|
||||
next spring/summmer for details of finds on the 1977 expedition.
|
||||
</dl>
|
||||
|
||||
<hr>
|
||||
<!-- LINKS -->
|
||||
<img alt=">" src="../../../icons/lists/0.gif">
|
||||
1977 Expedition info:<br>
|
||||
<img alt="--->" src="../../../icons/lists/1.gif">
|
||||
<a href="log.htm">Logbook</a> (currently missing)<br>
|
||||
<img alt="--->" src="../../../icons/lists/1.gif">
|
||||
Andy Waddington's <a href="andylg.htm">Logbook</a><br>
|
||||
<img alt="--->" src="../../../icons/lists/1.gif">
|
||||
<a href="report.htm">Expo report, Cambridge Underground 1978</a><br>
|
||||
<!-- <img alt="--->" src="../../../icons/lists/1.gif">
|
||||
<a href="bcracc.htm">BCRA Caves & Caving Report</a><br> -->
|
||||
<img alt="--->" src="../../../icons/lists/1.gif">
|
||||
Eislufthöhle - <a href="descnt.htm">from Descent 40</a><br>
|
||||
<img alt=">" src="../../../icons/lists/0.gif">
|
||||
<a href="../../pubs.htm#1977">Index</a> to all publications<br>
|
||||
<img alt=">" src="../../../icons/lists/0.gif">
|
||||
<a href="../../index.htm">Back to Expeditions intro page</a><br>
|
||||
<img alt=">" src="../../../icons/lists/0.gif">
|
||||
<a href="../../../index.htm">CUCC Home Page</a>
|
||||
|
||||
</body>
|
||||
</html>
|
||||
537
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<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0//EN">
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<html lang="en">
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||||
<head>
|
||||
<title>1977: Andy's own Logbook</title>
|
||||
</head>
|
||||
<body bgcolor="#FFFFFF" background="../../../backings/rings.gif">
|
||||
<table><tr><td width=44></td><td width="*">
|
||||
|
||||
<h2>Cambridge University Caving Club Expedition to the Totes Gebirge
|
||||
massif, Austria 1977</h2>
|
||||
|
||||
<p>It had begun to seem that we would be unable to get any transport to
|
||||
Austria when Dave Harrison came along and offered us a lift. Plans were
|
||||
quickly made and equipment bought, then Dave disappeared... a return of his
|
||||
nervous complaint so he would obviously be unable to drive to the continent.
|
||||
Given the impetus to go we hurriedly made our own arrangements to go out by
|
||||
train to Salzburg. We finally got the tickets on Saturday August 6th, to
|
||||
travel on Moday August 8th.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>Simon and I arranged for food and some gear to be sent out with various
|
||||
other members. We met Nick at Victoria station and then set off by train to
|
||||
Dover, there to catch the ferry to Ostend. From Ostend we got a train through
|
||||
Brussels, Aachen, Cologne, Bonn, up the Rhine valley, Bavaria and Munich and
|
||||
then, as we approached the border with Austria, mountains appeared. These
|
||||
were viewed and piccied enthusiastically before we crossed the border. Five
|
||||
more minutes and we were in Salzburg.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>Nick was enthusiastically pushed forward to speak German at the locals and
|
||||
we soon found ourselves on a bus to Bad Ischl. From here a train took us
|
||||
round the edge of Halstatter See and some very spectacular views of the
|
||||
Trippenstein and Dachstein were eagerly snapped up by my camera. The train
|
||||
carried on up the valley of the Traun and into Bad Aussee. One last bus took
|
||||
us up to Altaussee where a friendly Austrian directed us to the campsite
|
||||
without being asked for info. We arrived and it was immediately obvious we
|
||||
were in the right place because of the large squalid camp, with 6 canoes and
|
||||
an English car. We were greeted by Dave Fox and Vic Brown who informed us
|
||||
that everyone else had gone up to the plateau to camp.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>We unloaded, unpacked and settled in. The camp was next to the lake, on
|
||||
the far side of which towered the massive Trisselwand, an enormous clean
|
||||
limestone face 600m high. Nick and Simon went off to speak to the man in
|
||||
charge while I rerigged my tent which had been mis-erected by team Leach.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>Almost immediately after we had put up the 'Joke tent' and cooked a meal,
|
||||
it started to rain, a serious change from the glorious sunshine on our
|
||||
arrival. This soon developed into the most spectacular and noisy thunderstorm
|
||||
I have ever seen, and continued for some considerable time. We retired to our
|
||||
pits to catch up on sleep lost on the train. After a while a vehicle arrived,
|
||||
and Reckert's voice drifted across the campsite. His tent wasn't waterproof
|
||||
and was last seen with an inch of water on its tray groundsheet!
|
||||
|
||||
<p>After some time the rain eased off and we all headed for Fischers bar, the
|
||||
normal sequence of events for all subsequent evenings. Next day the weather
|
||||
was still poor and more of the expedition returned leaving only Mike and
|
||||
Julia on the plateau. Getting more and more bored, I eventually decided to
|
||||
borrow a canoe and ended up by canoeing 7 miles on the lake.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>Next day was better and we set off up to the plateau. We discovered that
|
||||
the way up the mountain was by toll road, and that the toll would be about
|
||||
£3 a time for the average vehicle we were taking up. Luckily we had had
|
||||
a free passage negotiated on our behalf by Karl, our Austrian contact. On
|
||||
about the seventh hairpin, we noticed that the alitude was 1348m, putting us
|
||||
higher than Britain.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>From the car park at the top we walked for about 20 minutes, mainly fairly
|
||||
level, until we arrived at the campsite where Mike and Julia were. From here,
|
||||
we walked for another 20 minutes or so to a col from where the plateau was
|
||||
visible. An enormous area of sparsely vegetated karren stretching for about
|
||||
three miles into the distance greeted us. A small area just in front of us
|
||||
had been looked at last year, while Nick, Steve and Julian were working over
|
||||
to the left and Team Leach with Mike and Vic and Dave were working to the
|
||||
right. We struck off into the centre.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>Very shortly we found an east west rift with water sinking nearby. The
|
||||
shaft seemed to be about 20m deep so we decided to start exploring. The
|
||||
prospecting technique we had been advised to use was one person exploring,
|
||||
one supporting, and the other prospecting for more holes. Simon had elected
|
||||
to be surface Martyr, so I prepared to descend while Nick rigged the pitch.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>The ladder went down for about 15m to a sloping boulder floor where I
|
||||
untied. I descended the boulders and climbed down a hole. A small sharp crawl
|
||||
led off. I followed the crawl for about 3m and then met water. This came down
|
||||
as a heavy drip from the roof and disappeared into a narrow slot in the
|
||||
floor. There was no way on. I retreated to the pitch and reascended, noting
|
||||
where a window from the hole next door to the west came in. The total depth
|
||||
was about 20m, and we decided it was worth numbering. We started our sequence
|
||||
with number 100. I photographed the entrance, and wrote down the details of
|
||||
the hole.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>Simon had been looking for the sound of water nearby and had been
|
||||
frightened by a snake, so had moved to a more open area with various holes.
|
||||
He had already found one deep hole with a long stone-rattle, but this had a
|
||||
number, B11. We later found that this descended 55m to a choke. Somewhat
|
||||
further on, we found a colossal hole with a huge snow plug, and a possible
|
||||
hole going down at the far end. We knew we were in an area which had been
|
||||
looked at, so we decided to ask about it before investigating any further.
|
||||
Shortly later, we found a large hole with a snow plug and a passage leading
|
||||
off. This came to a pitch head, and we were looking for belays when we
|
||||
eventually spotted the number - B9 in an obvious place, but almost invisible
|
||||
after a year. On later occasions we found that the number can only be seen on
|
||||
dry rock and vanishes under the mottling of lichen when it is wet. Further on
|
||||
still we passed B8, so we decided to head directly away from the col until we
|
||||
found something new.
|
||||
|
||||
<p><a name="1977-101-1">After some time</a>, we climbed down a small fault
|
||||
scarp onto a dipping area of rock and I found a small rifty entrance a few
|
||||
feet long with an obvious climb down inside. I descended this and found two
|
||||
ways on. To the left was a short pitch, while to the right was a short crawl
|
||||
leading to another entrance in the face of a small scarp. Nick kitted up and
|
||||
while he did so, I traversed over the pitch to a smaller climb down with a
|
||||
tiny tube leading back to the base of the pitch. I retreated and put a ladder
|
||||
on the pitch. Descending this led over a gravel floor and over an awkward
|
||||
rock into a tube. This led on for some way to the top of a climb down into
|
||||
what promised to be a larger passage but turned out to be a similar tube with
|
||||
a floor slot. This slot closed down and I was forced to crawl at roof level
|
||||
in the tube. This continued with occasional steep sections, descending for
|
||||
some way until finally, the floor slot became aparent again and turned left
|
||||
sharply. At this point there was a window on my right which led out via a 2m
|
||||
climb down onto boulders at the base of a large aven. There were holes in the
|
||||
boulder floor and a descent at the far side would have been perhaps 5m onto
|
||||
what appeared to be more boulders. I retreated and Nick went down for a look.
|
||||
I don't think he went as far as I did, but we both agreed that if we did find
|
||||
anything down there, carrying tackle would be a severe problem, so we decided
|
||||
to leave it. We labelled the original entrnce 101, and the second entrance
|
||||
101A. About 50m away, Simon had found another shaft which descended for some
|
||||
way, by the sound of stones, so we laddered it and I set off once again to
|
||||
explore. This time it was a smallish joint-orientated shaft which descended
|
||||
almost exactly 20m to a solid choke with a small amount of snow. We labelled
|
||||
it 102.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>Prospecting was now going more slowly and we all joined forces to
|
||||
investigate various nearby holes until Nick and Simon decided on a rifty
|
||||
semi-horizontal entrance not far from 102. We had, however, run out of time,
|
||||
so we dumped most of the gear and headed back for the col. On the way we
|
||||
passed various holes which we thought held considerable promise and we
|
||||
congratulated ourselves on finding a promising area.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>Next day we attempted to walk directly to our area, but were soon
|
||||
frustrated by a large area of spruce. Nick and Simon attempted to bypass it
|
||||
on the left while I went off to the right. It was some considerable time
|
||||
before we remet, and we were still separated by a large patch of dense bush.
|
||||
Between us lay a large horizontal cave entrance which Nick and Simon
|
||||
investigated as a horizontal tube which bifurcated and then choked.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>By taking bearings on the local mountains, we deduced that we were a long
|
||||
way from where we should be, and in precisely the opposite direction from
|
||||
what we expected. We set off, still separated by a band of bush, until we
|
||||
were nearer the place where we ought to be. We then split up again to try to
|
||||
find the OAV pole which had seemed an obvious landmark when we were at our
|
||||
entrances. Eventually I spotted it and was soon at the entrance to 101. It
|
||||
took Nick and Simon about half an hour to arrive despite their being only
|
||||
about 100m away. We had lunch.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>Nick and Simon rigged their hole - 103 - and both descended in what proved
|
||||
to be a narrow rift with ledges. Simon had to go half way down to line Nick
|
||||
to the bottom. It choked.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>We were fast coming to the conclusion that this area was not too good so
|
||||
we set off to the right (as seen from the col) to look at some of the holes
|
||||
we had seen the day before. We failed to find any. The scar we were walking
|
||||
along seemed to be a fault and obviously quite a bit of water sank there, but
|
||||
everything looked very choked. Eventually we emerged at the top of a slope
|
||||
down to an area which looked very heavily jointed and which had numerous
|
||||
large holes in it. As we might have expected, everything seemed choked.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>Since the area was fairly clear of bush, we decided to dump our gear here
|
||||
and prospect the surrounding area which looked as though it could hold
|
||||
something and was also likely to be fairly easy to find since some large
|
||||
erratics formed an unusual landmark... we had learnt that landmarks needed to
|
||||
be visible from afar !
|
||||
|
||||
<p>We split up and started wandering across the karren finding various open
|
||||
holes which obviously choked and several horizontal entrances which had to be
|
||||
looked at more closely. Nick and Simon found most of these but they all
|
||||
choked.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>Eventually we ended up a long way from where we had started and Nick and
|
||||
Simon called me over to them as Simon had found a long narrow rift entrance
|
||||
with no loose scree near it which looked promising. Nick and Simon fetched
|
||||
tackle (some of it) and Nick and I started to rig it while Simon meanwhile
|
||||
found more holes.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>Though awkward to rig, Nick was soon descending only to find it getting
|
||||
too tight with a way down visible. Since the depth was only about 10m, we did
|
||||
not number the hole. Time was running out so further investigation was
|
||||
delayed for a while...
|
||||
|
||||
<p>Back on the karren again the next day, we had less trouble in finding our
|
||||
holes, though at some stage in the proceedings I got thoroughly lost
|
||||
retrieving gear from the heavily jointed area where it had been left. We
|
||||
turned our attention now to Hohle 104 which Simon had found. There was
|
||||
nothing resembling a belay for this, but a very large erratic perched about
|
||||
10' from the lip provided a secure point to which we attached a bolt. While
|
||||
this was being done, I was prospecting for the tackle left a long way away. I
|
||||
got very lost again and almost ended up back at 101 before realising. When I
|
||||
got back with the gear, I found that Nick had found another hole down which
|
||||
stones rumbled for a long time; things were looking up !
|
||||
|
||||
<p>Simon was fed down 104 and descended for some time, freeing ladder on his
|
||||
way. He was instructed to count the rungs on the way up and by this means we
|
||||
found that the hole was 32m deep, our deepest so far, but as usual it choked.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>We began to suspect that 105 would choke the same way, so while it was
|
||||
being rigged by Simon and Nick, I started prospecting again. The only thing I
|
||||
found was a small horizontal entrance in a scar, but on entering this I was
|
||||
amazed to find I was in a large black space. Walking in carefully I seemed to
|
||||
be in a large flat-roofed chamber about 2-3m high and 10m wide. At the far
|
||||
side was a very exciting black space leading on. To my left, daylight came in
|
||||
through a small hole in the roof. After a few seconds, my eyes started to
|
||||
adjust to the light and I saw to my great disappointment that the far end of
|
||||
the chamber ended in a solid wall. The floor was solid boulders and scree
|
||||
with no obvious place to look for a way on. I climbed out of the hole in the
|
||||
roof and returned to the others to find that they too had visited it.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>105 was being rigged from a ledge about 6m down where Simon had climbed on
|
||||
a handline. A lot of ladder was being put down, but time seemed to be running
|
||||
out again. It was fully rigged but not descended before we returned to the
|
||||
cafe.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>My diary for the next day read 'Fed/Festered/Farted', and this sums up our
|
||||
rest day except to mention that I canoed round the lake, then across the
|
||||
lake, and then part way across the lake, about seven or eight miles
|
||||
altogether.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>Monday the 15th saw us back on the plateau to investigate a small
|
||||
draughting hole which I had found on our way back last time, but first there
|
||||
was the small matter of 200' of ladder down 105...
|
||||
|
||||
<p>From the first ledge, the place looked very loose, but after a final bit
|
||||
of gardening, I started to descend in what proved to be a fine shaft in clean
|
||||
white limestone. The ladder was caught on a couple of ledges on the way down,
|
||||
and the shaft sidestepped onto a parallel joint about halfway down. The whole
|
||||
place was very roomy and clean, but landed on a damp, level and very finally
|
||||
choked floor at a depth of 41m. The view up the shaft to the daylight at the
|
||||
top was superb. I coiled the remaining ladder and set off back up, tieing
|
||||
back onto the lifeline (which was too short) about 5m up from the floor.
|
||||
Since the rock was rather knobbly and there were several ledges, I pulled the
|
||||
ladder up at each one and coiled it. This meant that derigging was pretty
|
||||
efficient and we quickly moved over to the draughting hole.
|
||||
|
||||
<p><a name="1977-76-1">The</a> entrance which was next to a patch of Bunde
|
||||
was vertical for about 6m to what sounded like a snow ledge. It was pretty
|
||||
narrow with some snow in it, so I descended on a handline. This proved rather
|
||||
sporting since the snow was only a centimetre or so deep over hard ice, so I
|
||||
slid down rather rapidly.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>At the bottom of this first section was the expected snow ledge, and
|
||||
leading off were two passages. The way on, though, was neither of these, but
|
||||
a steep ice slope in a narrow rift from which came the enticing draught. I
|
||||
again descended rather less than elegantly, but a good deal more carefully,
|
||||
to find a small chamber with a window at the far end from which roared a
|
||||
powerful gale. I looked out of this and to my delight saw a pitch of about 6m
|
||||
onto another snow platform. I returned with some difficulty to the first snow
|
||||
ledge and then investigated one of the side passages which carried some of
|
||||
the draught and emerged at the base of a nearby doline. This was to become
|
||||
the normal entrance to the cave.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>Elated by the find, we had lunch and set off to rig the cave safely, by
|
||||
putting a ladder on the ice slope above the pitch. There were few belays to
|
||||
be found, but once rigged it was a good deal safer. There were even fewer
|
||||
belays for the pitch, and eventually we rigged it from the handline and a
|
||||
dubious flake. We put 20m of ladder down and I descended.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>The window led onto a pleasant pitch of 6m free onto the centre of a large
|
||||
snow plug down the sides of which were two holes. I fed the ladder down the
|
||||
larger and descended. This proved rather awkward, against crystalline snow
|
||||
and round a spiral which made communications difficult. I dropped down onto a
|
||||
further snow platform just before the end of the ladder. Off the edge of the
|
||||
snow, the pitch continued round a corner to the left. I looked down this and
|
||||
could discern more snow about 20m down with more black space beyond. I
|
||||
retreated rapidly.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>The excitement at this stage was intense, but we could obviously not
|
||||
proceed further without better belays, so a temporary exit was made. Nick
|
||||
went down and put in a bolt at the top of the ice slope, and for the next
|
||||
attempt, the bottom of the first ladder was used as a belay. We still needed
|
||||
more bolts however, so further progress was postponed.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>On the surface, Nick and Julian wandered by, having given their area up as
|
||||
being generally loose and choked. We next saw them in the campsite where they
|
||||
said that they had found a draughting hole about 100m beyond ours, but it was
|
||||
too small to enter. In typical Northern Branch dedicated fashion, they
|
||||
proposed to apply mechanical persuasion with a lumphammer to the entrance.
|
||||
Team fat geriatric jeered at the idea, but the results certainly justified
|
||||
the means.
|
||||
|
||||
<p><a name="1977-76-2">Next</a> day we were back at 106 and a bolt was put in
|
||||
at the head of the pitch, and Nick descended, with 60m of ladder on the
|
||||
pitch. Lifelining at the pitch head proved to be the most desperate part of
|
||||
the exercise, with a very powerful wind (enough to blow a carbide out) coming
|
||||
up the pitch at freezing temperature.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>About 12m below the snow platform below which the pitch continued as a
|
||||
steep snow slope into which steps could be kicked. This went down for 9m to a
|
||||
rock lip below which it was somewhat awkward to climb as it had got caught
|
||||
below. A further twelve metres down, the ladder went down a 'rift' with one
|
||||
wall of snow and one of rock. This choked off about four metres down and Nick
|
||||
had to climb back out. The rift proved to be a sort of mini-bergschrund, and
|
||||
he was able to climb over a snow pile and descend the far side for 8m to a
|
||||
large ledge below which the ladder had been catching while he was climbing
|
||||
the last section. Below the ledge the pitch still continued, turning left
|
||||
again. Dropping rocks, Nick estimated the depth to be about 20m onto yet more
|
||||
snow, but throwing rocks further out indicated a floor of considerable
|
||||
extent. We had no more tackle to continue, and it was becoming obvious that
|
||||
we needed to get more people further down. This would entail the placing of
|
||||
several bolts and rigging for abseil/self-line.
|
||||
|
||||
<p><a name="1977-76-3">Next</a> day we showed our entrance to Nick and Julian
|
||||
again, and they showed us theirs, so we could act as mutual call-outs. I
|
||||
descended to put a second bolt at the head of the pitch, Simon put a bolt at
|
||||
the -18m snow platform, but this went wrong. I then placed a bolt on the rock
|
||||
bridge. For most of this time, Nick was at the bottom where he had taken an
|
||||
extra 20m of ladder. Simon exitted and I descended to the bottom
|
||||
(Yesterdays's Terminus) where Nick and I put another bolt in, not realising
|
||||
that it was now very late. When we eventually exitted, the ladder proved very
|
||||
knackering to climb as it kept getting caught. We emerged into an incredible
|
||||
hailstorm (at least, Nick did - five minutes later or less, when I arrived,
|
||||
it had all finished) and rushed down to the car park as quickly as possible,
|
||||
noting the 6" banks of hailstones on the way. After this epic we decided to
|
||||
have a gonk-day.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>Nick, Julian and Steve had by now extended their hole (97) to about -75m,
|
||||
including one very tight bit called the Nun's C**t on account of its needing
|
||||
banging.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>Our gonk-day unfortunately turned into two gonk-days on account of some
|
||||
nasty low cloud and rain. We were fairly pissed off with the shaft (Plugged
|
||||
Shaft) which was proving so awkward to rig, but by next day we were keen to
|
||||
get to the next pitch down (Saved Shaft).
|
||||
|
||||
<p><a name="1977-76-4">We</a> found that the abseil/self-line technique was
|
||||
proving very effective as we all descended to Yesterday's Terminus in about
|
||||
ten minutes at most. Nick abseiled down the next pitch which proved to be
|
||||
about 14m onto a snow slope descending a few metres further into a big
|
||||
circular chamber whose roof soared out of sight even to Nick's electric. The
|
||||
floor was composed of large angular limestone blocks and one of these
|
||||
provided us with a belay for the next pitch which was a rift to one side of
|
||||
the chamber which appeared to be about 15m to a rock floor. Nick and Simon
|
||||
rigged the pitch while I took piccies, and then they both descended. From the
|
||||
top of the pitch they didn't sound happy: they had descended 16m into a small
|
||||
chamber, the far side of which was composed of huge limestone blocks, from
|
||||
beneath which the draught emerged. There was no way to climb over and boulder
|
||||
chokes are not the nicest things to meet when in such an isolated spot.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>I descended to see the choke, and soon discovered that climbing over was a
|
||||
poor idea since the large blocks all supported piles of loose grubble which
|
||||
fell off when used as handholds. I then turned my attention to the small hole
|
||||
through which most of the draught appeared to come. This was directly under a
|
||||
very large block, and had a floor of more loose grubble. I pushed lots of
|
||||
grubble through the hole to make it larger and more stable, and then crawled
|
||||
into it on a lifeline. I discovered that the choke ended immediately and led
|
||||
out into a rifty passage with a choked floor of jammed rocks and muck.
|
||||
Kicking various amounts of grubble out of the way I was able to descend onto
|
||||
this floor, remaining jammed in the rift in case it wasn't stable. I started
|
||||
to clear some of the muck from the choke to make it easier, and dropped a
|
||||
rock down a hole in the floor. To my surprise there was silence. I was
|
||||
reaching for another lump when there was a loud crash with lots of echo. More
|
||||
rocks followed with the same effect. I traversed forward to a place where the
|
||||
floor seemed to end and dropped rocks down here. We estimated a pitch of at
|
||||
least 30m in a very roomy shaft, and from the lack of bouncing it seemed to
|
||||
be free-hanging. The floor obviously needed gardening a lot before we went
|
||||
down the pitch, and anyway the top looked rather tight. Nick had a look and
|
||||
then we made our way out.
|
||||
|
||||
<p><a name="1977-76-5">The</a> next day - Sunday 21st - we rapidly reached
|
||||
the head of the new pitch, and I went as far forward as possible, again on a
|
||||
line, and started to remove the floor of the rift. This proved fairly easy as
|
||||
it was not very thick and after about half an hour or so, I had shifted most
|
||||
of it. A bolt was put in at the far end of the pitch and a traverse line
|
||||
rigged to it, the ladder belayed and Simon tied on to lifeline me. The pitch
|
||||
head needed a bit more gardening as I descended, and proved very awkward
|
||||
being so narrow, but the shaft below widened immediately, and was not
|
||||
free-hanging at all. In fact I was climbing a very easy pitch against the
|
||||
wall, which started at this side of the pitch, explaining why it had sounded
|
||||
free hanging from the other end of the traveerse. The shaft was oval in shape
|
||||
and quite large. I descended 32m passing only one small ledge, and then the
|
||||
lifeline became tangled at the top. This was very frustrating since I was
|
||||
only about 1m above a large ledge and had just come under a heavy drip. Once
|
||||
I got a bit of slack, I crossed the ledge and the pitch continued round to
|
||||
the left, though it sounded very broken. We had no tackle to investigate this
|
||||
with, so reluctantly I reascended, finding Simon with the lifeline in a huge
|
||||
tangle hanging down the pitch in my way. When it was eventually sorted out
|
||||
Simon left and I derigged. When only about 15m of ladder remained in the
|
||||
hole, a large chunk of the pitch-head decided to go in for free-fall caving.
|
||||
A sudden jerk on the ladder at the same time as the crash from below
|
||||
indicated that we had smashed a ladder and indeed it proved that one of the
|
||||
exCS ladders had a wire smashed three-quarters through. It was retired from
|
||||
service.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>Considering the size of the hole and the power of the draught we were
|
||||
following, it seemed a little odd that I could not detect it so I looked
|
||||
round a bit. The rift continued beyond me, but since the pitch below didn't,
|
||||
something odd was obviously going on. Simon came back across the traverse to
|
||||
help with the tackle so I got him to line me while I investigated the rift.
|
||||
There were a few loose rocks, so I climbed up and found a hole over a
|
||||
chockstone which led out onto a traverse about ten feet up in the rift. I
|
||||
found a place to descend and this quickly led to an enlargement and then a
|
||||
pitch head. The draught came through the hole, so the way on was open again.
|
||||
This meant that we would not be derigging, so we ferried the tackle forward
|
||||
and Nick came through. We were now running out of carbide, and as my light
|
||||
was about to go out, it seemed reasonable not to refill it until necessary.
|
||||
Accordingly, I waited in the Boulder Chamber with no light while Nick
|
||||
descended the pitch. It was 18m to a large ledge and Nick estimated another
|
||||
20m to the bottom, so we had to retreat to get another lifeline.
|
||||
|
||||
<p><a name="1977-76-6">We</a> were now getting left behind as the Team
|
||||
Enthusiast hole 'Schneewindschacht' had reached over 200m and was still
|
||||
going, while our deepest point was about 145m. We realised that we would not
|
||||
be able to get much further unless we found some gently descending passage
|
||||
with lots of short climbs, but next day saw us with another lifeline obtained
|
||||
from Höhle 82 - Team Geriatric's 220m find.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>We were intrigued, particularly on this trip, to note that the draught was
|
||||
becoming very variable and even reversed for a couple of minutes at one
|
||||
stage. Back at the new pitch, Nick descended to the large ledge and then
|
||||
continued down what proved to be only 14m to a passage leading gently
|
||||
downwards !
|
||||
|
||||
<p>This vadose passage led to a large chamber and numerous possible leads,
|
||||
but unfortunately had a heavy drip which made exploration by one person on
|
||||
carbide very risky. Nick returned and reported what he had found, and we then
|
||||
had an argument on the safety of two people going down at once. Nick reckoned
|
||||
he could return the lifeline to the ledge but no further, but as there was
|
||||
room on the ledge for two people, we decided it would be safe to go down as a
|
||||
pair. Simon and I descended and made our way forward to the chamber, where
|
||||
the following leads were noted -
|
||||
|
||||
<ol> <li>Large holes in the floor dropped about 10m to what appeared to be a
|
||||
passage continuing below carrying the stream from the huge aven above.
|
||||
|
||||
<li>A large rift on the far side of the chamber appeared to continue the line
|
||||
of the passage by which we had entered.
|
||||
|
||||
<li>Nick had found a small lead which came to an abrupt halt at a large
|
||||
circular shaft in the floor, at the far side of which the passage continued.
|
||||
|
||||
</ol>
|
||||
|
||||
<p>While not at all certain, it appeared that the draught came out of the
|
||||
holes in the floor and went up the passage we had come down, and also up the
|
||||
passage on the far side. With all these leads, there must be something there,
|
||||
though a somewhat better equipped party with at least some electric light
|
||||
will be essential next year.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>A photo was taken for posterity and we retreated, performing a grade three
|
||||
survey on the way out. The final series was not named. We derigged as far as
|
||||
Yesterday's Terminus, where we belayed all the tackle in a huge pile and
|
||||
exitted.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>There was a huge amount of rain during the night, but somehow I was
|
||||
persuaded to go on a two-man trip with Nick Reckert down Schneewindschacht to
|
||||
derig the bottom half after it had ended too tight at a CUCC record -265m.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>On entering the shake where the entrance lay, it was noticeable that a lot
|
||||
of water was around. Ignoring this, we descended the entrance which is quite
|
||||
thrutchy and leads out onto an easy free-climb and thence to the
|
||||
'Baptistry'-like tight bit. A lot of water fell down this at the start but
|
||||
was soon lost in the narrow slot below. The head of the first pitch was
|
||||
festooned with SRT gear, and Nick and I descended the first three pitches in
|
||||
rapid succession. The takeoffs were interesting....
|
||||
|
||||
<p>The first pitch was an easy takeoff once out of the crawl, the second was
|
||||
rigged from below a small stream gully and involved traversing on a rather
|
||||
small ledge whilst clipped into the bolt, while the third involved chimneying
|
||||
out above the pitch to reach a bolt which looked as if it had been placed by
|
||||
a spider, but which was fairly easy to clip into the pitch itself. Below this
|
||||
came an awkward step over a Puits en Baionette which led to a sizeable ledge
|
||||
which was the first point out of the substantial waterfall (Slit Pot sized)
|
||||
which accompanied the first three pitches of 55m total. Here Nick decided
|
||||
that the pot was rather too wet for a complete descent, especially for a
|
||||
comparative novice in SRT such as myself. Accordingly we retreated, leaving a
|
||||
rather massive task for Nick, Julian and Steve the next day.
|
||||
|
||||
<p><a name="1977-76-7">Next</a> day was the last day, so all derigging had to
|
||||
be completed, and everyone went up to the plateau to help carry gear back
|
||||
down. Team enthusiast had made a very early start, and I was jacking since
|
||||
all my gear was wet. Accordingly, Rod Leach went down 106 to assist. I
|
||||
remained on the surface with Jont and we investigated another draughting hole
|
||||
nearby, but this came to a pitch with ice very quickly so we left it for next
|
||||
year, pausing only to number it 99. To our surprise, when we went over to
|
||||
look at 97, we found a Perry emerging, after only six hours underground.
|
||||
Shortly later we were pulling 300m of rope out of the hole, all uncoiled to
|
||||
get it through the Nun's C**t. Nick emerged to find that he was trapped in
|
||||
his harness by the well known properties of Clog krabs and we all had a good
|
||||
laugh before Steve managed to free him. Upon wandering back to 106, we found
|
||||
the first of the team emerging from 106a with the first of the gear, and
|
||||
learned that a new extension had been made behind the rock bridge in Plugged
|
||||
Shaft. Dropping onto the snow behind the bridge led to a descent into a
|
||||
passage which soon ran out over another shaft - no draught. This is yet
|
||||
another lead to be investigated next year... five in all.
|
||||
<p><a href="../1978/log.htm#1978-76-1">Eislufthöhle next trip</a>
|
||||
|
||||
<p>The assembled multitude now returned to the col via 82, where yet more
|
||||
tackle was picked up and I got given a saturated Marlow rope which weighed
|
||||
more than what I was already carrying. The walk back with all the gear was
|
||||
somewhat epic.
|
||||
|
||||
<hr>
|
||||
Packing and camp-derigging was next, and then paying for the campsite,
|
||||
which, though at a reduced rate, was still somewhat expensive. Next day -
|
||||
Thursday, we set off with our huge loads of rucksacks plus a large kitbag and
|
||||
caught the bus to Bad Aussee, train to Bad Ischl, bus to Salzburg (the buses
|
||||
are marked 'standing room 37' and this seems to be what was being attempted
|
||||
most of the way - we were never told whose turn it was to breathe.) and then
|
||||
a long wait in Salzburg during which time I took the opportunity to go and
|
||||
wander round the old part of the city and take photgraphs while the others
|
||||
festered eating butties and beer.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>The train journey was less comfortable than on the way out, but we still
|
||||
got back home OK. Simon and I got the train to Preston and then got taken
|
||||
home by car, having got back home about twice as quickly as the other members
|
||||
of the expedition and about twice as expensively!
|
||||
|
||||
<hr>
|
||||
<!-- LINKS -->
|
||||
<img alt=">" src="../../../icons/lists/0.gif">
|
||||
1977 Expedition info:<br>
|
||||
<img alt="--->" src="../../../icons/lists/1.gif">
|
||||
<a href="log.htm">Logbook</a> (currently missing)<br>
|
||||
<img alt="--->" src="../../../icons/lists/1.gif">
|
||||
<a href="report.htm">Expo report, Cambridge Underground 1978</a><br>
|
||||
<!-- <img alt="--->" src="../../../icons/lists/1.gif">
|
||||
<a href="bcracc.htm">BCRA Caves & Caving Report</a><br> -->
|
||||
<img alt="--->" src="../../../icons/lists/1.gif">
|
||||
Eislufthöhle - <a href="descnt.htm">from Descent 40</a><br>
|
||||
<img alt="--->" src="../../../icons/lists/1.gif">
|
||||
Nick Thorne's write-up in <a href="771649.htm">Belfry Bulletin 354</a><br>
|
||||
<img alt=">" src="../../../icons/lists/0.gif">
|
||||
<a href="../../pubs.htm#1977">Index</a> to all publications<br>
|
||||
<img alt=">" src="../../../icons/lists/0.gif">
|
||||
<a href="../../index.htm">Back to Expeditions intro page</a><br>
|
||||
<img alt=">" src="../../../icons/lists/0.gif">
|
||||
<a href="../../../index.htm">CUCC Home Page</a>
|
||||
</td></tr></table>
|
||||
|
||||
</body>
|
||||
</html>
|
||||
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years/1977/descnt.htm
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|
||||
<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0//EN">
|
||||
<html lang="en">
|
||||
<head>
|
||||
<title>1977: Mike Perryman's report in Descent 38</title>
|
||||
</head>
|
||||
<body>
|
||||
<font size=-1>CTS 78.2027: Descent 38 (March/April 1978) p 34</font>
|
||||
|
||||
<h2>Cambridge push the hard pots of Altaussee</h2>
|
||||
|
||||
<p align=right><i>Mike Perryman, CUCC</i>
|
||||
|
||||
<p>FOR THE SECOND YEAR running, Cambridge Cavers, somewhat disillusioned
|
||||
after several summers prospecting in the Pyrenees, made a visit to the karst
|
||||
regions of western Austria in 1977. The 1976 expedition (full details in the
|
||||
current <a href="../1976/report.htm"><i>Cambridge Underground</i></a>) did
|
||||
important foundation work in the area, and even though little of note was
|
||||
found, sufficient knowledge was gained to make our prospecting last summer
|
||||
easier and more rewarding. It also found the Dachstein/Totesgebirge area
|
||||
excellent for tourist trips into the huge phreatic systems that abound, but
|
||||
attention was focussed on the extensive lapiaz plateau above Altaussee,
|
||||
where the caves have turned out to be of a very different nature.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>Until recently access to it had been difficult and the area consequently
|
||||
remained unexplored, but a toll road now serves this limestone mass nearly
|
||||
3300ft above the nearest valley floor. Although prospecting now involves a
|
||||
mere one and a half hours walk, one arrives much poorer!
|
||||
|
||||
<p>The depth potential of this region is of the order of 3300ft, but serious
|
||||
dye-testing has yet to be carried out. Rumours this summer of a 2300ft+ pot
|
||||
discovered further east on the Tauplitz plateau by a French team lifted
|
||||
morale even further. If confirmed this find would displace
|
||||
Gruberhornhöhle as the deepest in Austria. Then bear in mind that
|
||||
serious prospecting in the mountains has only just begun!
|
||||
|
||||
<p>Our finds have been more modest - amongst numerous small pots they include
|
||||
those now catalogued as holes 82, 97 and 106. The first of these would not be
|
||||
out of place in Yorkshire, with a stream cascading in at -130ft. After an
|
||||
awkward 65ft crawl, a series of wet pitches in progressively larger rifts
|
||||
reaches a sump at -754ft.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>97 is equally sporting with a tight entrance series leading to a
|
||||
succession of smallish pitches again in large rift passage. At 886ft it
|
||||
suddenly closes down and becomes too constricted.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>106 was not pushed to definite conclusion due to lack of time, but a team
|
||||
reached 460ft in a series of enormous shafts.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>Exploration of these and other smaller shafts went rather slowly - partly
|
||||
because of their location in relation to our camp, and partly due to their
|
||||
nature. We were rather surprised to find the systems wet and responding
|
||||
rapidly to rain, and cold even by English standards. And almost without
|
||||
exception the pitches had to be bolted due to the scarcity of good natural
|
||||
belays.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>But we have returned with valuable knowledge of the region, and more than
|
||||
enough enthusiasm to organise another visit.
|
||||
|
||||
<hr>
|
||||
<!-- LINKS -->
|
||||
<img alt=">" src="../../../icons/lists/0.gif">
|
||||
1977 Expedition info:<br>
|
||||
<img alt="--->" src="../../../icons/lists/1.gif">
|
||||
<a href="log.htm">Logbook</a> (currently missing)<br>
|
||||
<img alt="--->" src="../../../icons/lists/1.gif">
|
||||
Andy Waddington's <a href="andylg.htm">Logbook</a><br>
|
||||
<img alt="--->" src="../../../icons/lists/1.gif">
|
||||
<a href="report.htm">Expo report, Cambridge Underground 1978</a><br>
|
||||
<!-- <img alt="--->" src="../../../icons/lists/1.gif">
|
||||
<a href="bcracc.htm">BCRA Caves & Caving Report</a><br> -->
|
||||
<img alt="--->" src="../../../icons/lists/1.gif">
|
||||
Nick Thorne's write-up in <a href="771649.htm">Belfry Bulletin 354</a><br>
|
||||
<img alt=">" src="../../../icons/lists/0.gif">
|
||||
<a href="../../pubs.htm#1977">Index</a> to all publications<br>
|
||||
<img alt=">" src="../../../icons/lists/0.gif">
|
||||
<a href="../../index.htm">Back to Expeditions intro page</a><br>
|
||||
<img alt=">" src="../../../icons/lists/0.gif">
|
||||
<a href="../../../index.htm">CUCC Home Page</a>
|
||||
|
||||
</body>
|
||||
</html>
|
||||
38
years/1977/log.htm
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38
years/1977/log.htm
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|
||||
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|
||||
<html lang=en>
|
||||
<head>
|
||||
<title>
|
||||
1977: Logbook
|
||||
</title>
|
||||
</head>
|
||||
<body>
|
||||
<h4>Sadly, the original of the 1977 logbook seems to be missing</h4>
|
||||
|
||||
There is evidence that the club had it in 1988, when in Austria, but
|
||||
I suspect that this may be a red herring and references to "1977/8 in
|
||||
the 1977 logbook" are really references to "B8" from 1976.
|
||||
|
||||
<a name="1977-76" href="../1978/log.htm#1978-76-1">Eislufthöhle next trip</a>
|
||||
<hr>
|
||||
<!-- LINKS -->
|
||||
<img alt=">" src="../../../icons/lists/0.gif">
|
||||
1977 Expedition info:<br>
|
||||
<img alt="--->" src="../../../icons/lists/1.gif">
|
||||
Andy Waddington's <a href="andylg.htm">Logbook</a><br>
|
||||
<img alt="--->" src="../../../icons/lists/1.gif">
|
||||
<a href="report.htm">Expo report, Cambridge Underground 1978</a><br>
|
||||
<!-- <img alt="--->" src="../../../icons/lists/1.gif">
|
||||
<a href="bcracc.htm">BCRA Caves & Caving Report</a><br> -->
|
||||
<img alt="--->" src="../../../icons/lists/1.gif">
|
||||
Eislufthöhle - <a href="descnt.htm">from Descent 40</a><br>
|
||||
<img alt="--->" src="../../../icons/lists/1.gif">
|
||||
Nick Thorne's write-up in <a href="771649.htm">Belfry Bulletin 354</a><br>
|
||||
<img alt=">" src="../../../icons/lists/0.gif">
|
||||
<a href="../../pubs.htm#1977">Index</a> to all publications<br>
|
||||
<img alt=">" src="../../../icons/lists/0.gif">
|
||||
<a href="../../index.htm">Back to Expeditions intro page</a><br>
|
||||
<img alt=">" src="../../../icons/lists/0.gif">
|
||||
<a href="../../../index.htm">CUCC Home Page</a>
|
||||
|
||||
</body>
|
||||
</html>
|
||||
BIN
years/1977/map.gif
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BIN
years/1977/map.gif
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|
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738
years/1977/report.htm
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738
years/1977/report.htm
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@@ -0,0 +1,738 @@
|
||||
<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0//EN">
|
||||
<html lang="en">
|
||||
<head>
|
||||
<title>1977: Cambridge Underground report</title>
|
||||
</head>
|
||||
<body>
|
||||
<center><font size=-1>CTS 78.2018: Cambridge Underground 1978 pp 30-48</font>
|
||||
<h1>The Austrian Expedition 1977</h1></center>
|
||||
|
||||
<h3>Introduction</h3>
|
||||
|
||||
<p>The Austrian Expedition, which happened between August 5th and 24th, was
|
||||
based throughout at the campsite at <span lang="de-at">Altaussee</span>,
|
||||
beneath the <span lang="de-at">Loser</span> Plateau. All our finds, indeed
|
||||
all our prospecting, were confined to this area, although we did manage a few
|
||||
tourist trips in other areas (there being no previously known caves on <span
|
||||
lang="de-at">Loser</span>). Since the cavers present fell naturally into
|
||||
three subsets our account of the expedition follows a similar structure.
|
||||
There follows some pontification by Nick on the geological nature and caving
|
||||
potential of the <span lang="de-at">Loser</span> plateau area, and we
|
||||
conclude with a short account of other systems visited.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>(a) Team Youth : Simon Farrow, Nick Thorne, Andy Waddington
|
||||
|
||||
<br>(b) Team Enthusiast : Julian Griffiths, Steve Perry, Nick Reckert
|
||||
|
||||
<br>(c) Team Geriatric : Vic Brown, Dave Fox, Julia Kostelnyk, Carole Leach,
|
||||
Rod Leach, Jont Leach, Mike Perryman
|
||||
|
||||
<p>Note that membership of (b) did not preclude potential eligibility for
|
||||
(c) and vice versa. In most cases, team (c) members combined the finer
|
||||
qualities of both (a) and (b). Members of (a), who could be recognised by
|
||||
the enormous pile of sugar outside their tent, frequently had the qualities
|
||||
required for membership of (b), but never the other way round. (b) members
|
||||
could be picked out by the large pile of SRT gear always by their tents
|
||||
(never on the plateau), and (c) by the smell of haute cuisine emanating from
|
||||
their mess tent, or by the presence of slippers warming by the camp fire.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>Our thanks go to <span lang="de-at">Karl Gaisberger</span> who gave us the
|
||||
benefit of his enormous experience of the area and arranged free passage for
|
||||
us up the toll road to the plateau; to <span lang="de-at">Fritz
|
||||
Madlmeier</span> at the campsite for his hospitality and cheap beer (to
|
||||
encourage us to drink more, he continually lowered the price of it until it
|
||||
was eventually free !); to <span lang="de-at">Bar Fischer</span> where we
|
||||
drank and ate <span lang="de-at">Schlagg</span> each evening; and to the
|
||||
waitress at <span lang="de-at">Blaa-Alm</span> ... her schnitzels were
|
||||
magnificent.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>Chronologically events occurred as follows - dates refer to August 1977:
|
||||
|
||||
<blockquote>
|
||||
3 Geriatrics take <span lang="de-at">Altaussee</span> by storm<br>
|
||||
5 <span lang="de-at">Naglsteghöhle</span><br>
|
||||
6 <span lang="de-at">Brandgrabenhöhle</span><br>
|
||||
7 <span lang="de-at">Naglsteghöhle</span> again. Enthusiasts arrive<br>
|
||||
8 <span lang="de-at">Hirlatz</span><br>
|
||||
9 Youths arrive. Prospecting on plateau commences<br>
|
||||
See below<br>
|
||||
20 <span lang="de-at">Reiseneishöhle</span> - a show cave on the
|
||||
<span lang="de-at">Dachstein</span> Massif<br>
|
||||
21 <span lang="de-at">Elmhöhlensystem</span>, Totes Gebirge<br>
|
||||
22 Derigging of the major pots 97 and 76. All tackle removed from plateau
|
||||
</blockquote>
|
||||
<hr>
|
||||
<h3><a name="geriatric">Report of team Geriatric</a></h3>
|
||||
|
||||
<p>Team Geriatric had two advantages - a high standard of living compared
|
||||
with the soya bean boys, thanks to Carole and Julia, and knowledge of the
|
||||
area from the previous year. Disadvantages were old age breeding lethargy, a
|
||||
readiness to 'diversify', particularly into canoeing, and an addiction to all
|
||||
forms of cake '<span lang="de-at">mit Schlagg</span>' ! We took as our patch
|
||||
on the plateau, therefore, the area nearest the col (old age privilege) and
|
||||
ended up concentrating on an area no more than 10 minutes NE of the col. The
|
||||
holes explored were numbered in red as follows:
|
||||
|
||||
<p><b>80</b>: Found after five minutes on the plateau. A direct descent of
|
||||
14m to a choke, and the hole was abandoned.
|
||||
|
||||
<p><b>81</b>: Found two minutes later, this turned out to be a short section
|
||||
of horizontal passage 5m below the surface with two entrances but no way on.
|
||||
|
||||
<p><b>82</b>: We took bearings of this cave -
|
||||
<span lang="de-at">Bräuning Nase</span> 247,
|
||||
<span lang="de-at">Schönberg</span> 341. All other Geriatric pots are
|
||||
within a stones' throw of this obvious entrance. Found five minutes later,
|
||||
this was to occupy most of our caving time.
|
||||
|
||||
<p><b>Trip 1</b>. An obvious entrance (see cover of 1978 Journal !) led
|
||||
across a short snow slope to a large, boulder-strewn passage ending in a
|
||||
climb down with daylight entering 20m above through an aven. A scramble over
|
||||
boulders led to a 6m pitch (<span lang="de-at">Apfelschacht</span>) with
|
||||
dangerous loose boulders near the pitch head. This was descended and led
|
||||
almost immediately to a 3m climb down to the head of a 20m pitch (<span
|
||||
lang="de-at">Orangenschacht</span>) with a trickle of water entering halfway
|
||||
down. From the foot, a fine keyhole passage was followed to a choice of
|
||||
routes of which the most promising was a 10m pitch. The three present exited
|
||||
to gather more tackle and better caving gear than T-shirts and a single
|
||||
light.
|
||||
|
||||
<p><b>Trip 2</b>. A demolition job was done on the boulders of the first
|
||||
pitch and a bolt placed to give a safer hang. The third pitch (<span
|
||||
lang="de-at">Bierschacht</span>) was descended over stal. flow to an awkward
|
||||
crawl which looked likely to fizzle out. Instead it suddenly led directly on
|
||||
to a 15m pitch (<span lang="de-at">Nocheinbierschacht</span>) needing bolts
|
||||
as there was no natural belay. The pitch hung impressively free and suddenly
|
||||
the cave was spacious again. At the foot, voice connection was established
|
||||
with a phreatic passage above the third pitch that had ended in a big hole.
|
||||
Ahead was a phreatic tunnel that choked and a very large black emptiness. 25m
|
||||
of ladder were fed into this (<span lang="de-at">Viermalbierschacht</span>)
|
||||
and the pitch was found to be made up of four steps of about 6m each
|
||||
connected by small ledges. At the foot, the stream plunged over a tiny ledge
|
||||
(one and a half men big) into blackness. A small stone thrown over was not
|
||||
heard to land, but panic was avoided on the basis that the stone was small
|
||||
and the pitch noisy with the sound of the cascading stream. On the way out to
|
||||
collect SRT gear, the early part of the cave was surveyed.
|
||||
|
||||
<p><b>Trip 3</b>. Bolts were placed at the head of
|
||||
<span lang="de-at">Viermalbierschacht</span> and over the new hole. Vic (it
|
||||
says 'our tame idiot' on the scrap of paper in front of me - Ed.) was kicked
|
||||
over the edge and stopped 50m lower down. The pitch (<span
|
||||
lang="de-at">Besoffene</span>) hangs freer than Juniper for all but the last
|
||||
8m - most impressive. Heavy water, inefficiency over getting tackle to the
|
||||
front and a further pitch needing bolts forced an early exit. Spare time was
|
||||
used following passages nearer the surface to their conclusions, and carrying
|
||||
out more surveying.
|
||||
|
||||
<p><b>Trip 4</b>. More organised this time, one pair went down in heavy
|
||||
water (run off response was very rapid) and reached the head of the next
|
||||
pitch by traversing above a steeply dropping stream canyon. Bolts were
|
||||
placed above a sloping platform to give a pitch of about 17m to the stream
|
||||
floor which continued to drop steeply to a broken 6m pitch. A climb out of
|
||||
the streamway here showed a good spot for rigging a freehanging pitch out of
|
||||
the water. This was bolted by the second pair and descended to a depth of
|
||||
30m. To our general surprise and great disappointment, a sump rapidly
|
||||
followed.
|
||||
|
||||
<p><b>Trip 5</b>. Final surveying and derigging was completed with Steve
|
||||
being drafted in to prove that we hadn't made it all up. This final trip
|
||||
took just five hours.
|
||||
|
||||
<h4>Comments</h4>
|
||||
|
||||
<p>The pot is about 220m deep, and it seems likely that the sump is perched
|
||||
or perhaps even a temporary sump in highish water. However, no bypass could
|
||||
be found so the depth is unlikely to be increased. No major phreatic
|
||||
development was reached. Such phreatic passages as were found all choked
|
||||
rapidly and the overall impression is of a larger than life Yorkshire pot
|
||||
cutting through old phreatic developments. Like Yorkshire too, heavy water
|
||||
makes the big pitches very serious and the fourth trip assumed epic
|
||||
proportios at times, with one pair ascending most of the big rift in
|
||||
darkness, including transferring prussiking gear on a tiny ledge over 50m of
|
||||
exposure.
|
||||
|
||||
<p><img alt="82 survey - 28k gif" width=640 height=1300
|
||||
src="../../plateau/others/82.gif">
|
||||
|
||||
<p>Pitches :<blockquote>
|
||||
1 - 6m <span lang="de-at">Apfelschacht</span><br>
|
||||
2 - 20m <span lang="de-at">Orangenschacht</span><br>
|
||||
3 - 10m <span lang="de-at">Bierschacht</span><br>
|
||||
4 - 15m <span lang="de-at">Nocheinbierschacht</span><br>
|
||||
5 - 25m <span lang="de-at">Viermalbierschacht</span><br>
|
||||
6 - 50m <span lang="de-at">Bessofene</span><br>
|
||||
7 - 17m<br>
|
||||
8 - 6m<br>
|
||||
9 - 30m</blockquote>
|
||||
|
||||
<p><b>83</b>: Found 200m north of 82. A 13m freeclimb dropped on to a steep
|
||||
snow slope requiring a line. This was descended for a further 10m to a steep
|
||||
boulder slope which funnelled down to a small hole through which stones fell
|
||||
free a long way. The large amounts of scree made the descent most
|
||||
uninviting. Back up the boulder slope, a phreatic passage was entered and
|
||||
quickly led to a big hole in the floor.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>A second visit with Marlow and bolts was made to descend the big hole in
|
||||
the floor. Apart from the wedges being too big, things went smoothly and the
|
||||
bolts held OK. A fine free-hanging pitch of 36m got us quite excited.
|
||||
Unfortunately no way on could be found from the boulder-strewn floor. The
|
||||
phreatic passage continues beyond the pitch head (bolts or a lack of
|
||||
imagination requred for the traverse) but it is trending uphill and does not
|
||||
look very promising.
|
||||
|
||||
<p><b>84</b>: A draughting tube WNW of 83 led to a small chamber. A further
|
||||
small tube led off, still draughting but it was deemed impenetrable by the
|
||||
caver concerned on account of him wearing only shorts and T-shirt.
|
||||
|
||||
<p><b>85</b>: Strangely, we had missed this although it was within 20m of 82
|
||||
and we had walked past it every day on the way to the plateau. A descent of
|
||||
this turned out to be quite entertaining - a series of short free-climbs of
|
||||
varying complexity led to a depth of at least 50m with no tackle required
|
||||
anywhere. An impenetrable fissure barred further progress.
|
||||
|
||||
<p><b>86</b>: This was a rift on the high ground just SE of 82 and didn't
|
||||
look too promising as it seemed snow-plugged. Ladder was fed down and a
|
||||
descent made to -25m before the gap between the snow and the rock got too
|
||||
small.
|
||||
|
||||
<p><img alt="sketch surveys of smaller caves - 16k gif" width=640 height=800
|
||||
src="../../plateau/others/80-86.gif">
|
||||
|
||||
<hr>
|
||||
<h3><a name="enthusiast">Team Enthusiast's</a> Report</h3>
|
||||
|
||||
<p>None of our pots have accurate coordinates, a reflection partly on the
|
||||
recurrent low cloud and partly on our belief that we were sighting on a peak
|
||||
called the <span lang="de-at">Bräuning Sattel</span>. A '<span
|
||||
lang="de-at">Sattel</span>', we later learnt, is a pass ! All our pots
|
||||
are marked in red paint.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>Numbers 90 to 94 are all situated on the southern edge of the karren
|
||||
field, more or less below an obvious and dramatic breach in the
|
||||
<span lang="de-at">Bräuning</span> wall.
|
||||
|
||||
<p><b>90</b>: Rift entrance in scrub, just below talus and pasture. Chokes
|
||||
at -20m
|
||||
|
||||
<p><b>91</b>: Snow-fed rift in open lapiaz. Chokes at -20m
|
||||
|
||||
<p><b>92</b>: Distinct from its neighbours in several respects. Firstly, it
|
||||
was deep in scrub yet the entrance was not over-vegetated. Secondly, by
|
||||
virtue of its small horizontal entrance, it was unlikely to be blocked by
|
||||
thermoclastic scree. Thirdly it draughted slightly. With all these points in
|
||||
its favour, it was annoying to find that the interior was as loose as a dose
|
||||
of Delhi-belly. Everywhere we looked were vast, poised boulders, and one of
|
||||
our ropes was severed when NR dislodged a piece of wall by breathing too
|
||||
hard. It was not too much of a disappointment to find that it choked at
|
||||
-90m.
|
||||
|
||||
<p><img alt="92 survey - 12k gif" width=640 height=900
|
||||
src="../../plateau/others/92.gif">
|
||||
|
||||
<p><b>93</b>: Long rift north of 91. Chokes at -35m.
|
||||
|
||||
<p><b>94</b>: A little further north still. A spiralling free-climb choking
|
||||
at -35m.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>At this point we realized what we should have known from the start: in
|
||||
this area pots aren't worth bothering with unless they:
|
||||
|
||||
<blockquote>(1) have vast entrances or<br>
|
||||
(2) have tiny entrances<br>
|
||||
(3) draught</blockquote>
|
||||
|
||||
<p>So we abandoned the area under the <span lang="de-at">Bräuning</span>
|
||||
Wall. But before we go down to serious prospecting we decided to have a look
|
||||
at a pot recommended to us by <span lang="de-at">Karl Gaisberger</span>. In
|
||||
fact we had already been camping within 50m of it without noticing ! It was
|
||||
situated on a raised bank near the sink and huts on the west side of the
|
||||
<span lang="de-at">Schwarzmoos Sattel</span>, just off the path that we
|
||||
followed to reach the plateau from the car park. In fact Pot 96 was found
|
||||
first, but JG being an accountant, his tiny brain gets acutely perplexed by
|
||||
blunders in numbering.
|
||||
|
||||
<p><b>95</b>: A 10m climb to an unpushed and unpromising tube. Descended
|
||||
only for the sake of form and to restore numerical sequence.
|
||||
|
||||
<p><b>96</b>: An unusual pot in that the entrance was the only good clean
|
||||
shaft which we found in pasture. A series of short, solid pitches in a high
|
||||
rift led to an apparent end in a chamber where the water sank. However, the
|
||||
upper level of a small rift was found to lead to an abandoned passage.
|
||||
Several free-climbs, each muddier than the last, then a squeeze, brought us
|
||||
to a sordid little sump, although an air current (but not SP) seemed to
|
||||
vanish along an inaccessible passage above the final crawl. We were rather
|
||||
disappointed by the omens, as last year's major discovery, the <span
|
||||
lang="de-at">Fledermaushöhle</span>, had also ended in a sump. Would
|
||||
every pot end in a perched sump ? Well the next pot was to be a revelation.
|
||||
Depth 105m.
|
||||
|
||||
<p><img alt="96 survey - 13k gif" width=640 height=900
|
||||
src="../../br-alm/96.gif">
|
||||
|
||||
<p><b>97</b>: The pot that restored the status quo to Team Enthusiast
|
||||
(otherwise known as Team Ireland, Team Trials Marina, Team Thin Geriatric,
|
||||
Team Gunge etc., etc.) We had been looking for a hole which we could name
|
||||
<span lang="de-at">Konstantinopolitanischerstraßenbahnführerinassistentineninexpeditionnenzehnhundertsiebenundsiebsigtropfsteineishöhlensystem</span>,
|
||||
but it would have had to be at least 50 km long for the name to fit on the
|
||||
survey ! So we settled for the name <span
|
||||
lang="de-at">Schneewindschacht</span> instead. Within spitting distance of
|
||||
<span lang="de-at">Eislufthöhle</span>, it was distinguished by a
|
||||
narrow, draughting entrance, with an encouraging rustle of water within.
|
||||
(Incidentally, all the draughting holes we found this year blew OUT: we never
|
||||
came up with a reasonable explanation, despite much speculation about
|
||||
localised barometric inversion, water generated and ionised air currents, but
|
||||
just took it for granted that such holes were more promising than pots with
|
||||
no draught at all.)
|
||||
|
||||
<p>Team Fat Geriatric jeered at us for applying Yorkshire tactics in the
|
||||
land of the big shaft, but we returned next day with a hammer and enlarged
|
||||
the entrance to passable proportions. Two climbs of 10m and 5m led to a
|
||||
chamber with two exits, of which NR chose the drier. A sordid grovel doubled
|
||||
itself and passed directly under the wetter hole, which dribbled ferociously
|
||||
through his tatty Spock-suit. Obviously a diver was needed ! JG obligingly
|
||||
continued along the grovel for a further 5m, finding it about as tight as
|
||||
Baptistry crawl with a constricted pitch head on the far side. 15m below,
|
||||
the explorers reached the head of a very deep-sounding rift, which was
|
||||
initially descended only to a ledge at 20m. Due to the awkwardness of the
|
||||
entrance crawl, it was necessary to remove all SRT gear and clip it to the
|
||||
pitch head before exiting, hence the name Vestry. The crawl itself, which
|
||||
henceforward was entered and left by the wet entrance, was baptised the
|
||||
Nun's C***: partly on account of the shape of the orifice, partly on account
|
||||
of its tightness, but mainly because it was so desperately in need of
|
||||
banging.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>Discovery progressed slowly, largely because every pitch had to be bolted:
|
||||
also, it was essential to be off the lapiaz by nightfall or resign oneself to
|
||||
an overnight trip, thus denying oneself the statutory five glasses of <span
|
||||
lang="de-at">Reininghaus</span> at the <span lang="de-at">Bar Fischer</span>.
|
||||
The survey is fairly self-explanatory. Traversing over a '<span lang=fr>Puits
|
||||
en baionnette</span>' took one down the Bottomless Abbess to a point where
|
||||
the cave turned horizontal and stream-like for a short stretch. But it still
|
||||
went on down, dropping - rather surprisingly - into an abandoned series of
|
||||
dry, dusty phreatic tubes, which sloped down at a steady five degrees. The
|
||||
tantalising sight of a large cave-type passage leading off beyond a 3m ladder
|
||||
climb almost made it seem likely that a giant fossil system had been reached.
|
||||
Alas, it was impossible to traverse over to it, so SP was tied onto a piece
|
||||
of string and forced down the next pitch.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>A fine clean shaft of 25m, it started unpromisingly, but soon belled out
|
||||
into a magnificent trench passage. Traversing over a gully led shortly to a
|
||||
succession of piddling little climbs and a final lovely pitch, The
|
||||
Dissolution. Here the water sank in an impenetrable crack, the draught
|
||||
having already vanished.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>An excellent pot - even if it would have been impossible to rescue anyone
|
||||
from - but why did it stop so soon ? And would the traverse have led to
|
||||
further pitches ? The answer is almost certainly yes. Still, there's the
|
||||
rest of the plateau to be looked at yet, so we probably won't return to the
|
||||
<span lang="de-at">Schneewindschacht</span>. Depth 265m.
|
||||
|
||||
<img alt="97 survey - 22k gif" width=582 height=1335
|
||||
src="../../plateau/others/97.gif">
|
||||
<!-- survey needs rescanning, as that is a hand-held scan and is not
|
||||
linear in the y-direction. -->
|
||||
|
||||
<hr>
|
||||
|
||||
<h3><a name="youth">'Youth Section'</a> Report</h3>
|
||||
|
||||
<p>The 'Youth Section' comprised the three undergraduate members of the
|
||||
expedition present this year, Simon Farrow, Nick Thorne & Andy
|
||||
Waddington. We arrived a few days later than the bulk of the expedition and
|
||||
immediately started prospecting. It took us about two days of exploring small
|
||||
shafts in the karren with depths of 10-20m before we found a very promising
|
||||
area. Two shafts of 30 and 40m were descended, but these were of the large
|
||||
open type and inevitably choked. The shafts were numbered as found:
|
||||
|
||||
<p><b>100</b>: A small shaft on the line of a fault, about 15m deep but
|
||||
ending in a tight wet crack with very sharp rock.
|
||||
|
||||
<p><b>101</b>: Near a large fault scarp, but apparently not associated with
|
||||
it. A small freeclimb down led to a horizontal passage which led in both
|
||||
directions, the northward branch led out into the face of the scarp (101A)
|
||||
while south led to a short pitch and then a small crawl led on. This dropped
|
||||
into a larger crawl, a meandering phreatic tube which went for 40m or so
|
||||
until a window in the right wall led to the base of an aven. The continuing
|
||||
crawl was too small, and the aven appeared to choke after a climb down. The
|
||||
total depth was probably 30-40m.
|
||||
|
||||
<p><b>102</b>: About 30m west of 101, a straight shaft of 20m to a snow plug.
|
||||
|
||||
<p><b>103</b>: About 15m north of 102, in the face of the same fault scarp
|
||||
as 101A, but aligned on a joint perpendicular to the fault. A very broken
|
||||
shaft of 30m to a choke - distinctly tight and awkward with lots of wedged
|
||||
rock.
|
||||
|
||||
<p><b>104</b>: Moving east to a new area below the <span
|
||||
lang="de-at">Schwarzmooskogel</span>, we found a large open shaft in the
|
||||
dense spruce. This was rigged from a bolt in a large erratic boulder, and
|
||||
found to be 30m deep. It was rather broken and inevitably choked.
|
||||
|
||||
<p><b>105</b>: A much cleaner shaft nearby, started as a handline descent of
|
||||
9m to a ledge from which a pitch was rigged. It seemed likely to be loose
|
||||
from here down, but in fact proved to be a very fine shaft in clean
|
||||
bluish-white limestone, 32m to a flat gravel floor.
|
||||
|
||||
<p><b>106</b>: The rest of the account is taken up by our major discovery,
|
||||
which occupied us for the rest of the trip.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>It was while we were derigging 105 that a small hole sloping downwards
|
||||
for about 5m was noticed. The entrance was invisible from 5m away and only
|
||||
attracted attention because the air around it was noticeably cooler than
|
||||
elsewhere. A closer examination revealed that the hole led down over a small
|
||||
ice slope and then stepped sideways so that stones could not be thrown down
|
||||
any further.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>The next day, a handline was rigged to a spruce at this entrance and a
|
||||
descent was commenced. Andy soon discovered that the ice was rather hard and
|
||||
slippery and his descent was not too well controlled. At the bottom of the
|
||||
initial slope, two small passages led off, and a further ice slope went down
|
||||
a narrow rift. This was descended more carefully, and a small chamber was
|
||||
entered. At the far end, another hole led on and from this emerged the
|
||||
draught which at this point was powerful enough to blow out a carbide lamp
|
||||
flame. This hole was a pitch head and a temporary retreat was made. We were
|
||||
obviously on to something good, and the entrance was labelled 106. The two
|
||||
small side passages were investigated and both found to lead out into the
|
||||
bottom of nearby dolines, both carrying part of the draught. One of these
|
||||
dolines was subsequently used as the normal entrance (106A).
|
||||
|
||||
<p>Tackle was quickly collected from the surface and Andy and Nick returned
|
||||
to the ice slope, where a short ladder was rigged for safety. No natural
|
||||
belays were apparent, so the next ladder was put down the pitch belayed to
|
||||
the first, while Nick tied on to a dubious flake. The pitch dropped about 9m
|
||||
onto a large snow platform from where two ways on were possible. Andy
|
||||
descended the larger and found himself climbing round and under a large snow
|
||||
and ice plug. Below this was another platform and round the corner, the
|
||||
pitch continued into blackness, with another snow ledge visible some way
|
||||
below. All this snow prevented stones from being thrown far down the shaft,
|
||||
but we were obviously onto something big so we retreated for more tackle.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>Our main priority on the next trip was to put some bolts in and descend
|
||||
the next section of the pitch, and having shown someone else where our
|
||||
entrance was, we were all able to descend the pot simultaneously. The shaft
|
||||
continued, getting bigger all the time, and we were soon 40m below the
|
||||
second snow platform on a large ledge. At this stage we started to find that
|
||||
the shaft was not giving up its secrets easily as the ladder started getting
|
||||
caught up on the numerous ledges, making it very difficult to climb. This
|
||||
necessitated considerable delay while we rerigged the shaft, putting in
|
||||
various bolts on the way.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>On the next trip after rerigging, we got everyone down to the large ledge
|
||||
"Yesterday's Terminus" and rigged the next pitch from yet another bolt. Nick
|
||||
abseiled into the unknown and the pitch proved to be 13m onto another large
|
||||
patch of snow, but this time things were somewhat different, since the snow
|
||||
occupied one half of the floor of a large chamber forming the base of a huge
|
||||
aven soaring beyond the range of our lights. We were now at a depth of about
|
||||
90m and soon found that the way on was a further pitch in a rift to one side
|
||||
of this chamber. We were able to rig this quickly as the large boulders in
|
||||
the floor gave us our first safe natural belays. Nick and Simon descended
|
||||
another 13m pitch into a small chamber at the far end of which was a large
|
||||
boulder blockage.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>The obstacle comprised three huge boulders, one above another, with the
|
||||
gaps filled by several smaller blocks and at first seemed insuperable. Andy
|
||||
descended and a brief discussion ensued. After an initial attempt to climb
|
||||
over the choke, thwarted because each of the large blocks had various amounts
|
||||
of loose grubble on top, attention focussed on a small hole from which the
|
||||
draught seemed mainly to be coming. A lot of loose rubble was pushed through
|
||||
the hole and then Andy ventured to peer through. The hole was short and led
|
||||
out into a narrow rift type passage with a floor of jammed rubble. After
|
||||
throwing various lumps of rock at the floor, Andy descended and moved forward
|
||||
on a lifeline. A gap in the floor was noted and a small stone dropped in. The
|
||||
result was both worrying and encouraging, as after a delay of a couple of
|
||||
seconds, an echoing crash was heard. Further forward, the explorer was able
|
||||
to demolish the false floor which fell with loud crashing and booming noises
|
||||
into the pitch below. Eventually enough of the rubble was removed to judge
|
||||
the pitch head safe, but it appeared to be too narrow to descend except at
|
||||
the far end where it seemed to widen slightly.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>The descent of the pitch had to wait until the next trip when a bolt was
|
||||
placed above the takeoff and a traverse line rigged over the pitch head. All
|
||||
the available ladder was put down the pitch which was estimated at 40m, and
|
||||
by the sound of stones dropped seemed likely to hang free. In fact, when
|
||||
descended it proved to be 31m in a fine wide shaft, but against the wall all
|
||||
the way by virtue of the takeoff having been chosen right at the far side of
|
||||
the shaft. A heavy drip landed on the large boulder strewn ledge and then
|
||||
the pitch continued. Stones dropped suggested a broken pitch of perhaps 15m,
|
||||
but the pitch proper was hidden round a corner and the lifeline had run out.
|
||||
It was noticed that while the next pitch was small, no draught was
|
||||
noticeable. This later led to the shaft being named the 'Keg Series'.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>A retreat had now to be made, since insufficient tackle was available to
|
||||
continue, and the pitch was derigged. While pulling ladders up the pitch, a
|
||||
large rock fell out of the pitch head and crashed onto the ladder some 15m
|
||||
below, smashing most of the way through one of the wires. Sitting at the top
|
||||
of the pitch coiling ladders, it was noticed that while the pitch ended
|
||||
directly below, the rift continued beyond, and investigation of this led to
|
||||
the discovery of a draught coming from an awkward hole between chockstones
|
||||
in the continuing rift. As soon as all the tackle was coiled, Andy set off
|
||||
through the hole to find a climb down to the enlarging continuation of the
|
||||
passage. After a short distance, the gradient steepened and another pitch
|
||||
head materialised, this time in an apparently roomy shaft starting some way
|
||||
above. Derigging the pot was abandoned and another return trip planned.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>Next day all the tackle was ferried forward and put down the new pitch
|
||||
rigged from a convenient wedged boulder. Nick descended to a ledge 16m down
|
||||
and found that the pitch continued. This section proved to be 14m to a solid
|
||||
floor from which a vadose type passage led onwards. He set off to investigate
|
||||
and soon came to a chamber below a large aven from which a heavy drip fell.
|
||||
A passage could be seen beyond, as well as a rift in the floor which seemed
|
||||
to be the start of another passage about 5m below the floor of the chamber.
|
||||
The chamber could not reasonably be crossed by a lone explorer on carbide
|
||||
because of the heavy drip from the roof, so Nick retreated to report the
|
||||
good news. On the way he noticed a small passage which led back parallel to
|
||||
the way he had come, and following this he came upon another large shaft in
|
||||
the floor with an estimated depth in excess of 15m. He could see a passage
|
||||
beyond the pitch but could not cross it so returned to the final pitch.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>After discussion about whether the lifeline could be safely returned down
|
||||
the pitch, Simon and Andy descended and repeated the exercise, noting in
|
||||
addition that the draught in the final chamber seemed to be distributed,
|
||||
some going to the pot that we had explored, and some going to the passage
|
||||
on the far side, suggesting yet another inlet to the system. A single
|
||||
photograph was taken and the pair returned to the final pitch.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>The trip was clearly the limit of our tackle, and time for the expedition
|
||||
was running short, so we started to derig, getting as far as Yesterday's
|
||||
Terminus before leaving the job for a final trip on the last day of the
|
||||
expedition. On this final trip, we were assisted by Rod Leach, while Andy
|
||||
stayed on the surface. Behind a rock bridge about halfway up Plugged Shaft,
|
||||
a passage was found leading off, and this was followed to the head of yet
|
||||
another pitch which descended into the unknown, another lead to be followed
|
||||
next year. Nearby on the surface, another draughting entrance was found and
|
||||
descended down a climb to a side-step leading to a pitch. This was
|
||||
investigated only by the dropping of stones, but seems to be about 10m to a
|
||||
snow ledge. This pot was labelled 99 to fill a gap in the numbering
|
||||
sequence.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>During the expedition, all the finds had been allocated numbers in
|
||||
accordance with the official Austrian recording system, and only on the
|
||||
return trip did we decide to name our pot "<span
|
||||
lang="de-at">Eislufthöhle</span>", since on drawing our rough survey, we
|
||||
found its depth to be 150m, the depth which we had been taking as the minimum
|
||||
for naming a pot.
|
||||
|
||||
<p><img alt="106 survey - 19k gif" width=640 height=860 src="106.gif">
|
||||
|
||||
<hr>
|
||||
|
||||
<h3><a name="nicknotes">Some Notes</a> on the <span lang="de-at">Loser</span>
|
||||
Plateau</h3>
|
||||
|
||||
<p>In the absence, as we are given to understand, of any detailed study of
|
||||
the <span lang="de-at">loser/Schönberg</span> plateau, it is difficult
|
||||
to write with any authority on the hydrology and geology of the area. We were
|
||||
further handicapped by a lack of adequately contoured large-scale maps from
|
||||
which spot heights could be assessed. Still, the following points may be of
|
||||
interest.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>The part of the plateau with which we were concerned takes the rough form
|
||||
of a wide and shallow cirque, bounded to the south by the impervious
|
||||
(dolomitic?) shales of the <span lang="de-at">Bräuning</span> Wall, to
|
||||
the east by the peaks of the <span lang="de-at">Schwarzmooskogel</span> and
|
||||
<span lang="de-at">Augsteck</span>, and to the north by the <span
|
||||
lang="de-at">Schönberg</span>. The slope - and as far as we could judge
|
||||
- the general dip are WSW, and the bulk of the plateau falls within the
|
||||
altitude range 1600-1800m. Several sizeable valleys appear to coalesce in the
|
||||
centre of the plateau, but in the short time available to us we were only
|
||||
able to explore a small area within about 1 km from the <span
|
||||
lang="de-at">Schwarzmoos-Sattel</span>. Given the size of the plateau, its
|
||||
patches of dense scrub, and its orogenetic and morphogenetic complexity we
|
||||
can only guess at the character of the parts left unexplored, but we think it
|
||||
very unlikely that there will be any integrated surface flow or stream sinks.
|
||||
|
||||
<p><img alt="sketch map of area - 20k gif" width=735 height=940
|
||||
src="map.gif">
|
||||
|
||||
<p><span lang="de-at">Karl Gaisberger</span> informed us that a dye-test in
|
||||
the <span lang="de-at">Augstsee</span> (a small lake near our route up to the
|
||||
plateau) had given a positive trace to the water mains of <span
|
||||
lang="de-at">Bad Ischl</span>, some 12km to the west. Unfortunately, <span
|
||||
lang="de-at">Bad Ischl</span> is fed by several tapped springs and it had not
|
||||
been possible to identify the exact one. We do know though (1) that a spring
|
||||
near or in <span lang="de-at">Naglsteghöhle</span> has been tested from
|
||||
the <span lang="de-at">Steyrer-See</span> near <span
|
||||
lang="de-at">Tauplitz</span>, a trace distance of about 30km. Since the <span
|
||||
lang="de-at">Loser</span> Plateau lies on this traceline it is a simplistic
|
||||
but fair assumption that the water from our discoveries also resurges there.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>A corollary of this particular series of tests is that the drainage of the
|
||||
<span lang="de-at">Totes Gebirge</span> mountains in shown to be essentially
|
||||
radial. The main sinks dyed fed resurgences around a circumference of 75km,
|
||||
an area delineated by <span lang="de-at">Bad Mitterndorf, Bad Aussee, Bad
|
||||
Ischl, Ebensee, Grunan, Hinterstoder</span> and <span
|
||||
lang="de-at">Liezen</span>. This extraordinary radial drainage makes it
|
||||
unlikely that the <span lang="de-at">Loser</span> pots join a vadose
|
||||
dendritic system. Far more likely is an extensive and sluggish phreas. Again,
|
||||
it is unfortunate that we have no flow through times to substantiate the
|
||||
theory.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>If the assumption is correct, the possibility of a master cave of sorts is
|
||||
not necessarily ruled out. It would necessarily date from the late Tertiary
|
||||
period (the most important in Austrian speleogenesis) and would probably be
|
||||
situated several hundred metres above the current resurgence level. This
|
||||
supposes a series of deep vertical shafts dropping into a large, abandoned
|
||||
main drain, with further shafts, representing a more recent and predominantly
|
||||
vertical genetic phase, dropping further still to near-static sumps.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>Although the nearby <span lang="de-at">Rauherkarhöhle</span> (c. 700m
|
||||
deep) does little to bear out this theory, being a highly complex and gently
|
||||
sloping cave system, a comparison between it and, say, the <span
|
||||
lang="de-at">Schneewindschacht</span>, will show enough points of difference
|
||||
to invalidate strict parallels. A glance at a cross-section of the plateau
|
||||
with the <span lang="de-at">Schneewindschacht</span> superimposed will
|
||||
demonstrate graphically that some sort of horizontal trend must be expected
|
||||
shortly. Moreover, the pattern of large horizontal galleries feeding (and
|
||||
sometimes fed by) shaft systems is common enough in Austria already; the
|
||||
<span lang="de-at">Geldloch</span>, the <span
|
||||
lang="de-at">Dachsteinmammuthöhle</span> and, more recently, the <span
|
||||
lang="de-at">Ahnenschacht</span> (2) are examples.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>Several trips were made into <span lang="de-at">Naglsteghöhle</span>,
|
||||
attempting to bolt across to an inlet at the far end. If we had persevered -
|
||||
either in this, or in investigating local resurgences - it is conceivable
|
||||
that we might have found a good length of passage heading towards <span
|
||||
lang="de-at">Rauherkarhöhle</span> or under the plateau. Food for
|
||||
thought !
|
||||
|
||||
<p>One further point of interest is the <span
|
||||
lang="de-at">Stellerweghöhle</span>, whose approximate position is
|
||||
marked on the area map. This cave was discovered in 1951 and was found to end
|
||||
in a deep shaft. This shaft has still to be descended ! A partial descent and
|
||||
a plumbline revealed a depth of 220m plus. That alone must speak volumes for
|
||||
the potential of the area.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>References:<br>
|
||||
(1) Herak, M. & Stringfield, V.T. (Editors) Karst, p 242<br>
|
||||
(2) Spelunca, 1975, no. 3, p 23
|
||||
<hr>
|
||||
|
||||
<h3><a name="other">Other Caving</a></h3>
|
||||
|
||||
<h4><span lang="de-at">Naglsteghöhle</span> Bolting</h4>
|
||||
|
||||
<p>Last year's inspection of this small system found that a possible way on
|
||||
was visible at the top of the ramp at the highest point of the cave. Mike
|
||||
and Vic performed an exposed traverse to a ledge, where a rusted piton
|
||||
was found in the rock with the initials WA inscribed next to it. There
|
||||
was no evidence of anyone having got beyond this point. We bolted a
|
||||
further climb of 4m to a passage above from which a one metre diameter
|
||||
phreatic tube leads off in the roof at about 60 degrees. This is about 4m
|
||||
up, and may need a bolt as well as more enthusiasm to reach.
|
||||
|
||||
<h4>The <span lang="de-at">Brandgrabenhöhle</span> Fiasco</h4>
|
||||
|
||||
<p>This is a resurgence cave about 50m below the entrance to <span
|
||||
lang="de-at">Hirlatz</span>. It was rumoured to be desperately wet by
|
||||
Austrian standards, so a wetsuited team sweated up the 300m climb to the
|
||||
entrance to do a spot of pushing for them. About 50m into the cave we were
|
||||
stopped by a 10m pitch into a deep lake. Not having thought of bringing any
|
||||
ladders, we lowered Dave down into the pool. Dangling just above the water he
|
||||
announced that he could see that the passage sumped further along and didn't
|
||||
need to get himself wet to prove it. He ascended amidst jeers from the other
|
||||
three who were peering over the ledge. But since nobody else wanted to go
|
||||
down, we exited planning to return with a ladder. On our return to <span
|
||||
lang="de-at">Altaussee</span>, Karl informed us that the passage does indeed
|
||||
sump off here in the summer, but that in winter over 1km of streamway can be
|
||||
followed.
|
||||
|
||||
<h4><span lang="de-at">Hirlatz</span> bashing</h4>
|
||||
|
||||
<p>Julian and Mike dismissed this vast and impressive system in just over
|
||||
three hours. The cave as far as camp 1 with its rotting canvas tent and
|
||||
renowned supply of naughty magazines was described in last year's expedition
|
||||
account. The only aspects of the cave's entrance series of note were the
|
||||
uninspiring state of the fixed ladders (about a dozen had to be negotiated
|
||||
throughout the cave), and the incredible current of air blowing through the
|
||||
entrance crawl. The Wind Tunnel in <span lang=eu>Betzula</span> just doesn't
|
||||
compare with the gale that was roaring out that day, and it was with some
|
||||
trepidation that we groped in through the iron gate and under the draught
|
||||
doors that revent the entrance icing up in winter.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>Beyond Camp 1 the cave splits after a chamber with initials smoked on the
|
||||
walls. To the left the passage passed a fixed ladder, then got progressively
|
||||
smaller until we came out above a streamway with waterfall facing us.
|
||||
Retracing our steps for a few metres we were able to drop down 10m through
|
||||
boulders to a traverse above the stream. A 5m climb up through water on
|
||||
minimal holds led to a further 5m fixed ladder climb up, and we called a halt
|
||||
where the water appeared as spray from a 60m aven.
|
||||
|
||||
<p>Back at the 10m fixed ladder we climbed up to an old deserted phreatic
|
||||
passage and soon arrived at Camp 2 - an elaborate but squalid set-up with
|
||||
carbide, food, pots and plates all over the place. Beyond a waterfall, a
|
||||
small stream was reached. From here the passage closed down and rapidly
|
||||
developed into a vadose trench for a hundred metres or so. It degenerated to
|
||||
a point where we decided to proceed no further in claggies. A stinky gonk in
|
||||
the stream proeceded a sprint out to daylight.
|
||||
|
||||
<h4><a name="elmh" lang="de-at">Elmhöhlensystem</a></h4>
|
||||
|
||||
<p>An ascent to the <span lang="de-at">Pühringer</span> Hut by Team
|
||||
Geriatric was combined with a trip into the <span
|
||||
lang="de-at">Elmhöhlensystem</span>, described in detail in last year's
|
||||
journal. We entered by the <span lang="de-at">Kleines Windloch</span> and
|
||||
proceeded into the ice-section as far as the <span lang="de-at">Grosses
|
||||
Windloch</span> shaft. Rod and Jont took lots of piccies. The rest of us
|
||||
hurled snowballs or went toboganning! On to a splendid evening meal at the
|
||||
Hut (where chamois was on the menu), and a bed for the night.
|
||||
|
||||
<h4>Some notes in conclusion</h4>
|
||||
|
||||
<ol>
|
||||
<li>We will undoubtedly return to the area in 1978 .... we have still
|
||||
hardly begun on the plateau, and we have no competitors as yet.
|
||||
<li>Lots of bolts and drivers are essential - there are few natural
|
||||
belays and the rock is very hard.
|
||||
<li>SRT rope could be taken down larger pots in long lengths and then cut
|
||||
underground to the lengths required.
|
||||
<li>Ladder or SRT ? Clearly SRT is faster on a long trip, but we found that
|
||||
using mixed tackle avoided unnecessary bolting for the free-hang required by
|
||||
SRT. For example, <span lang="de-at">Viermalbierschacht</span> would have to
|
||||
be rebelayed in three places on SRT. There still seems, for exploratory work
|
||||
- at any rate where pitches are descended and ascended many times during the
|
||||
exploration - to be a strong case for mixed tackle and flexibility on the
|
||||
part of cavers.
|
||||
<li>Size of party - 82 was our first major exploration involving depth and
|
||||
uncertain rescue facilities. Consequently we were fairly inefficient. Ideally
|
||||
teams of two or perhaps three should go down at intervals of an hour or so -
|
||||
this allows a party to get down, rig the next pitch (bolts almost inevitable)
|
||||
assess the situation beyond, and then return quickly, passing on their
|
||||
information to the next group. This avoids long trips, something none of us
|
||||
fancied.
|
||||
<li>Get fairy floats for canoes if VB or DF have offered to take you on an
|
||||
'easy' river.
|
||||
<li>Give up caving and take up skiing...
|
||||
<li>Don't have two plates of <span lang="de-at">schlagg</span> washed down
|
||||
only by beer...etc., etc.
|
||||
<li>A tip for new members - the club dinghy CAN be rolled should you
|
||||
capsize, provided you have tied yourself in first.
|
||||
</ol>
|
||||
|
||||
<h3>END OF EXPEDITION REPORT</h3>
|
||||
|
||||
<hr>
|
||||
<!-- LINKS -->
|
||||
<img alt=">" src="../../../icons/lists/0.gif">
|
||||
Cambridge Underground 1978
|
||||
<a href="../../../jnl/1978/index.htm">Table of Contents</a><br>
|
||||
<img alt=">" src="../../../icons/lists/0.gif">
|
||||
1977 Expedition info:<br>
|
||||
<img alt="--->" src="../../../icons/lists/1.gif">
|
||||
<a href="log.htm">Logbook</a> (currently missing)<br>
|
||||
<img alt="--->" src="../../../icons/lists/1.gif">
|
||||
Andy Waddington's <a href="andylg.htm">Logbook</a><br>
|
||||
<!-- <img alt="--->" src="../../../icons/lists/1.gif">
|
||||
<a href="bcracc.htm">BCRA Caves & Caving Report</a><br> -->
|
||||
<img alt="--->" src="../../../icons/lists/1.gif">
|
||||
Eislufthöhle - <a href="descnt.htm">from Descent 40</a><br>
|
||||
<img alt="--->" src="../../../icons/lists/1.gif">
|
||||
Nick Thorne's write-up in <a href="771649.htm">Belfry Bulletin 354</a><br>
|
||||
<img alt=">" src="../../../icons/lists/0.gif">
|
||||
<a href="../../pubs.htm#1977">Index</a> to all publications<br>
|
||||
<img alt=">" src="../../../icons/lists/0.gif">
|
||||
<a href="../../index.htm">Back to Expeditions intro page</a><br>
|
||||
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|
||||
<a href="../../../index.htm">CUCC Home Page</a>
|
||||
|
||||
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|
||||
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|
||||
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