Merge updates on the 2015-on large-tarp rigging.

handbook/bivirig.html

@@ -23,7 +23,7 @@ work. Feel free to improve it over time.</p>
 <ol>
 <li>set up the
 water-collecting tarp</li>, and 
-<li>set up the main tarps</li>
+<li>set up the main tarp</li>
 </ol></p>
 
 <p>If there is any chance of it raining soon, start with the water
@@ -38,7 +38,7 @@ up, because that works for all three sections. So the
 gear/stove/animal-hole wall. The 'back' is the top end of the bridge.
 The 'front' is the main entrance.</p>
 
-<img src="bivirig.svg" alt="Drawing of tarp layout">
+<img src="bivirig.svg" alt="Drawing of pre-2015 tarp layout">
 
 <h2>Water tarp</h2>
 
@@ -60,22 +60,26 @@ it will get nearly all the water and is much easier to hang/adjust/unclog.</p>
 
 <h2>Main roof tarp</h2>
 
-<p>This is one large tarp covering more than half of the internal
+<p>Since 2015 we have one really big (15x10m, white) tarp (rather than
-roof. There are two main cross-ropes to hold it up, ties at the back
+the smaller 10x10 green one, shown in the diagram). This covers the whole
-edge and 'knitting' to reduce sagging in the almost-flat central area.
+sleeping area from front to back and is a lot drier. It is set up so
-The objective is to get it taut enough and square enough that almost
+that essentially the whole bivvy is covered. The tarp is just about
-all the water runs down the top and out the front not collecting in
+wide enough to span the width of the bivvy. The instructions below are
-'buckets', which then drip. That means that it has to be fitted quite
+a good guide as to how to set up any tarp, and the large white tarp
-'flat'. </p>
+actually has a few instructions written on it. You can largely ignore
+the 'fold' notes, and use your own judgement.</p>
 
-<p>Start with the big green 10x10m tarp. It seems to be near-enough
+<p>Start with the big white tarp. The long edge goes from front to
-square so don't worry which way round you start. The basic position is
+back of the bivi. The basic position is that it goes all the way to
-that it goes all the way to the right wall, partly 'underneath', and
+the right wall, partly 'underneath', and the left hand edge crosses
-the left hand edge is about in line with the steps up the middle. The back
+the steps up the middle. The back edge reaches the floor behind the
-edge lines up with where the roof rises at the back entrance.</p>
+top 3-person flat area at the back entrance.</p>
 
 <p>So start by opening it out to full width on the wide central
-bed-shelf. and pulling the RH edge close to the wall. Sequencing the ropes is a bit tricky, you need the tarp vaguely in place, then install the two main ropes to lift it up. Finalise th tarp position and tension it. </p>
+bed-shelf. and pulling the RH edge close to the wall. Sequencing the
+ropes is a bit tricky, you need the tarp vaguely in place, then
+install the two main ropes to lift it up. Finalise the tarp position
+and tension it.</p>
 
 <p>Once the tarp is somewhat spread out, rigging the ends of the two
 main ropes - one across the front and one across the middle (passing
@@ -86,11 +90,17 @@ rope attaches to the roof bolt just at the LH edge of the tarp. This
 needs someone very tall, or sitting on shoulders, or something devious
 with bivi string to pull it tight.</p>
 
-<p></p>
+<p>P.S. At the rear entrance, you can rig up some extra tarps to make
+it more comfortable.</p>
 
-<p></p>
+<p>This is one large tarp covering most of the internal
+roof. There are two main cross-ropes to hold it up, ties at the back
+edge and 'knitting' to reduce sagging in the almost-flat central area.
+The objective is to get it taut enough and square enough that almost
+all the water runs down the top and out the front not collecting in
+'buckets', which then drip. That means that it has to be fitted quite
+'flat'. </p>
 
-<p></p>
 
 <h3>Rear entrance tarps</h3>
 <p></p>